Betta in dirty tank - should I move to new uncycled tank?

I've had my vetail betta fish for about a month in a filtered 1 gallon tank. The thing is is that I haven't cleaned his tank since I got him, and now he has fin rot.

I went out today and got a 5 gallon tank though..it's uncycled but it's set up and working. I don't have a proper water testing kit either.

I should mention that going to the nearest pet store takes about an hour from where I live and I can't drive..Good water also isn't easy to get since I have Well Water on tap (it has salt/water softener in it)

Should I leave him in the 1 gallon tank (and do a 100% water change) and hope that he gets better while the new 5 gallon cycles, or put him in the 5 gallon tank and also hope for the best?

 

Why did you wait a month to clean the tank? And why the one gallon?

If you can put some of the filter media in the new tank to let it jump start a little and clean the old tank ASAP.
If it were me (a younger and new to fish keeping me lol), I would put him in the new tank. But based on what I've learned on here, it might be better to keep him in the 1 gallon until the larger tank cycles.
Not an expert fish keeper though, it's just what I would do.
Good luck!

 

I would put the established filter media in the five gallon and move your fish. Do 25% water changes daily. Use a fungus/finrot treatment (worked for me).
Add floating plants, bettas like the cover, and they take up ammonia. Water sprite is quite hardy.

 

Good on you for getting a 5 gal tank for him. I would move him ASAP. Your 1 gal thank isn't cycled, and better he ben in 5 gal uncycled tank than a 1 gal.

Just to clarify though, when you say you haven't cleaned the tank do you mean you haven't done water changes either? Because if so that's almost definitely the cause of the fin rot, and you're lucky your fish is still alive, as I imagine the ammonia in that water is off the charts. Please do a water change ASAP (I'd probably do two or the 50% changes over the course of one day, the 50% daily until the dank is cycled. My apologies if I misunderstood though.

 

A lesson learned - take it in. Not changing water caused the fin rot.

Go right into the new tank and transfer the filter. Maybe he will survive, and if he doesn't, next time around, weekly 25% water changes are crucial. It's 5 minutes well spent - well water with sodium is better than a one gallon full of urine. If you have had a betta for more than 6 weeks and it gets finrot - you have to learn to prevent it next time.

 

I know it was stupid of me not to change his 1 gallon tank water, my father said I didn't need to until next month since this tank was filtered.

I'm moving him to the uncycled 5 gallon now in hopes it will be better for him. Thank you for all the replies though.

I'm still very new to being a Betta owner and I'm pretty scared about all of this. If you have any more tips for me, please tell me! I need all the help I can get to try and keep him alive...

(And sadly, yes I mean I didn't do a single water change in his 1 gallon...

 

I know it was stupid of me not to change his 1 gallon tank water, my father said I didn't need to until next month since this tank was filtered.

I'm moving him to the uncycled 5 gallon now in hopes it will be better for him. Thank you for all the replies though.

I'm still very new to being a Betta owner and I'm pretty scared about all of this. If you have any more tips for me, please tell me! I need all the help I can get to try and keep him alive...

(And sadly, yes I mean I didn't do a single water change in his 1 gallon...

We were all new once. I've been in the hobby for a couple years and I still make mistakes allllll the time. The important thing is to live and learn! Doing research and asking for advice like you did here will make a huge difference in your learning curve and the quality of your betta's life.

Filtration, assuming you have enough filter media building up beneficial bacteria, should help to take care of the ammonia once your tank is cycled. Until then removal through water changes will help to minimize the stress on your fish. If you pick up a bottle of Seachem Prime (or another similar water conditioner) and dose it according to directions, that will help detoxify the ammonia until your cycle is established.

What a cycled tank won't do though is take care of the nitrates, which are also harmful. The only way to get the nitrates out is through water changes (or if you have a gazillion plants in your tank – plants like nitrates, but in most tanks they just help slow the buildup, not get rid of nitrates all together).

I would highly recommend reading up on the nitrogen cycle (<- click on this blue link) to figure out what all of this talk of bacteria and ammonia and nitrates is all about.

Right now the best thing you can do for your fish is:

1. Give him a bigger tank. Ammonia in a 5 gallon tank will be 5 times more diluted than it would be in a 1 gallon tank, so it will help reduce the impact on your fish.

2. Do frequent water changes. Personally I'd do two or three 50% changes over the 48 hours to really knock down the ammonia levels (make sure the water that you add to the tank is the same temp as the tank water!), then do a 50% change every few days). Once your cycle is established a 30% change once a week should be fine, as long as you're not overfeeding and leaving uneaten food in the tank (that will create more ammonia).

3. Regularly use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia. You can also use some medications like other posters mentioned to help treat the fin rot and prevent infections.

And don't hesitate to ask for help! There really is no such thing as a dumb question.

 

My fish got finrot even though I did a fishless cycle. There has been no detectable ammonia or nitrites since I put him in. Nitrates are less than 10. I do water changes. I think bettas are prone to it and it's not always poor husbandry. I will say he is a stressy fish and a fin biter despite having five gallons and plants. He is also getting better.

 

We were all new once. I've been in the hobby for a couple years and I still make mistakes allllll the time. The important thing is to live and learn! Doing research and asking for advice like you did here will make a huge difference in your learning curve and the quality of your betta's life.

Filtration, assuming you have enough filter media building up beneficial bacteria, should help to take care of the ammonia once your tank is cycled. Until then removal through water changes will help to minimize the stress on your fish. If you pick up a bottle of Seachem Prime (or another similar water conditioner) and dose it according to directions, that will help detoxify the ammonia until your cycle is established.

What a cycled tank won't do though is take care of the nitrates, which are also harmful. The only way to get the nitrates out is through water changes (or if you have a gazillion plants in your tank – plants like nitrates, but in most tanks they just help slow the buildup, not get rid of nitrates all together).

I would highly recommend reading up on the nitrogen cycle (<- click on this blue link) to figure out what all of this talk of bacteria and ammonia and nitrates is all about.

Right now the best thing you can do for your fish is:

1. Give him a bigger tank. Ammonia in a 5 gallon tank will be 5 times more diluted than it would be in a 1 gallon tank, so it will help reduce the impact on your fish.

2. Do frequent water changes. Personally I'd do two or three 50% changes over the 48 hours to really knock down the ammonia levels (make sure the water that you add to the tank is the same temp as the tank water!), then do a 50% change every few days). Once your cycle is established a 30% change once a week should be fine, as long as you're not overfeeding and leaving uneaten food in the tank (that will create more ammonia).

3. Regularly use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia. You can also use some medications like other posters mentioned to help treat the fin rot and prevent infections.

And don't hesitate to ask for help! There really is no such thing as a dumb question.

Thank you for helping out! I really appreciate it.

I put my betta in the new (uncycled) tank about 1 hour ago though. He's been swimming around and checking out the place, which I'm happy to see since he was barely moving at all in the 1 gallon..

The 5 gallon did cycle a bit for 24 hours and when I started it up I put all 3 of the Tetra liquids in the tank. (EasyBalance, SafeStart, and AquaSafe) I also put some drops of the API BettaFix medicine as well to see if that may help him with the finrot.

The tank has all that he needs, he has a filter, a heater, a hiding spot, and a small Asian waterfern. He still is in the mood to eat as well.

Anyways, when do you think I should do the first water change and should I vacuum the rocks on the bottom as well..? And should I do two water changes today or tomorrow..? (It's currently 2:34pm)

 

Do you have an API test kit to test Ammonia, Nitrates etc?

 

Do you have an API test kit to test Ammonia, Nitrates etc?

Not a proper one, I guess I would call it..I purchased one of the 1 year, stick in your tank testers. I forget what they're called but I've read they may not be the most reliable thing but they warn you of high ammonia and such..

 

Not a proper one, I guess I would call it..I purchased one of the 1 year, stick in your tank testers. I forget what they're called but I've read they may not be the most reliable thing but they warn you of high ammonia and such..

If you can invest $25 or so into an API Freshwater test kit, that will last a long time, is a lot more accurate and will give you a much clearer idea as to the status of your tank. If I recall correctly, I don't think most test strips even test for ammonia. And yes, they can be notoriously inaccurate.

 

If you can invest $25 or so into an API Freshwater test kit, that will last a long time, is a lot more accurate and will give you a much clearer idea as to the status of your tank. If I recall correctly, I don't think most test strips even test for ammonia. And yes, they can be notoriously inaccurate.

Sweet, okay. I'll look for one as soon as possible. The kits and test strips were the most confusing to get, finding the right one was a struggle aha. Thank you

 

Well water doesn't need chemical additives. You have a golden goose. So no more declorinator. Also if you add plants there's never any need to "clean" a tank. Trust me on this. I would add a pothos or your mom's philodendron by dangling it into the top of your tank. Lots of ppl do this all over the world it helps detoxify the water and will speed up the cycling process in your new 5gallon. The more plants the better. I know someone who has a heavily planted tank that hasn't had a water change in over a year. Plants make all the difference. Your well water is probably hard but that's ok by adding plants and wood it will soften up and it's better than any municipal water source. You are very blessed my friend. I'm currently paying for spring water delivery and it's expensive. I get well watet from my grandma's house when I can get out there but you're sitting on a gold mine

 

If your fish gets fin rot, it either comes from the store cup or from dirty water at home. Test kits tell you about the nitrogen cycle, but there is more to water than that.
There is one exception: bad breeding. If the fins are so large that they remain permanently folded, it is almost impossible to keep them from rotting off. They become traps for spores, mold and fungus. As tempting as they are, you might do well to avoid the really large fins.

The other issue is that about half the photos posted here of Bettas getting meds poured into their tanks for fin rot don't show fin rot. Too large fins tear, and the tips are a different colour when they grow. I suspect a lot of Bettas have been killed by overmedication when they were simply young and growing. It's a problem with being an ornament and a fish at once - people expect them to look "just so" and figure all the normal wear and tear and growing pains have to be a disease.
A lot of betta keepers get upset when the fins aren't perfect, not realizing that one of the main reasons they are kept in those nasty little cups is to immobilize their fins so they remain perfect and un torn so the fish will sell. At the industrial fish farms, there are antibiotics in the rearing water...

 

Well water doesn't need chemical additives.

Unless you have heavy metals or other contaminants in your well water, like I have in my well water. Unless you've had a recent well water test done you won't know that for sure though, and I always prefer to be safe than sorry since well water composition can change depending on many factors (floods, hitting pockets of metals, etc). Prime protects against the metals too and the peace of mind well justifies the cost for me.

 

It's just one betta. I'm sure it'll be fine. Why bother with all the chemistry for one betta? I realize it's a nano tank but bettas are hardy (look how they're kept commercially). I mean the fact that it survived all that dosing in the one gallon already is a testament alone. Honestly if the well water is really that hard I'd suggest keeping guppies(or mollies) or even african cichlids. They like it hard like that. Also plants like minerals. I mean something likes that well water just the way it is so why mess with a good thing? Less is more. Definitely test it but I mean if it's safe to drink/bathe I'm sure it's fine for one betta until the tank gets more established. Not something I'd worry about at this stage of things. Pothos will sit on top of a nano tank nicely and the foliage can be draped over the side for a nice aesthetic. I did this one with a clipping from a larger plant and now it's emersed and healthy. Plus the roots make a great hideout

 

Hi,
Some excellent advice, and you will do best to listen, especially if you want to keep going with fish keeping. Some call fish keeping a hobby, but in reality it's not. Fish keeping is a way of life and if you're not going to put all of your attention to it, then give it up. It's so nice having a tank with a fish in it to look at, but unless you do what needs doing, then the fish will suffer. Having fun rot is suffering for your fish.
Would you chain a dog up in a tiny yard without cleaning up his little area? Would you let him live there in squalor? Would you ignore your dog when all he does is scratch and nibble at his fur? You might think that that's different, but it's the same. A dog or a cat needs care and love, as does your fish.

You have had some excellent advice, and I understand you have reasons, but they are easily overcome.
You say your well water is brackish, well if it's too salty, then I suggest you head to the supermarket weekly and buy some water. I don't know how it is where you are, but here in Australia our supermarkets have a drinks section, and most have 10l plastic containers full of good clean water for a couple dollars. If I was unable to use my water, then I would be buying at least one weekly, which I would use for a weekly water change.
At the same time I would jump onto ebay and buy a water test kit, and any other Maintenance items you will need, such as a good syphon, a good glass cleaner etc.
I would be putting the fish in the new tank and if possible, hook up the old filter to the new tank on conjunction with the new filter, that way any nitrifying bacteria there is will seed the tank. If you can't do that, then I would use some of the filter media in your new filter and scatter some in the tank so it will seed the tank as well.
One good thing is that a single small fish won't be much bioload and should get by without cycling the tank, but while I say that, you will need to test your parameters daily in order to make sure your fish is safe.
Get some treatment for the fin rot ASAP and treat your tank ASAP.
Also, make sure that while you are treating the tank, that you remove any carbon from your filter as that will absorb the meds.
I hope you have learnt your lesson and will do what is needed from now on.

If you can't do what you need to do, then sell up now.

I have 10 tanks running right now, and my wife is in the process of setting up a new tank for her Kilifish, and we have never had fin rot in any of our tanks. But all of our tanks are cared for properly. We have a flat bed trolley with two wheelie bins on it. One we put the water in it with some water ager to remove any chlorine and chloramine. The other bin we use to fill with the syphoned water, then we use a pond pump in the bin to pump new water into the tanks. I'm not bragging, just trying to show that fish keeping requires dedication and no matter what the obstacles, we will do what we can to overcome them.

Another thing to note is not to listen to people who don't know what they are talking about. You've come to the right place for some excellent advice and help, but stop listening to your dad.

Sorry if I'm coming down harsh on you, but not knowing how to care for your fish is something many newbies have to overcome.
It annoys me when a shop will sell a setup and not care enough to teach people how to care for their new fish.
Yes, I was a newbie and I had been given bad advice from a local aquarium which ended up being very stressful for us. I had found a fish group on Facebook and I was given some excellent advice. One person in particular was very hard on me, and I learnt a lot from him, and had become Facebook friends. I had met him a few times when he had stuff for sale that I had need of.

Good luck, and happy learning.
And don't forget, no question is too silly to ask. No matter what, by asking the silly questions, we learn a lot.