Betta Fish Ripped Tail

The water from the ammonia test tube seems like clear like light yellow so I assume 0ppm...the rest is 0ppm since I just change water yesterday...

 

Kind of weird that it's clear, are you using apI master test kit?

 

That's good...I didnt put the ammo lock on that tank...but I do put the ammo lock to the tank for the neons...cant wait to do the nitrogrn cycle in the other new tank...the neons are just in the basin...so I just put them in the new tank with 2 days old water..put stress coat and ammo lock on the water...my hubby doesn't want to return the neons even if I told him about the cycle that I wanna do

Yup I did....I did it twice since I was curious why it is somewhat clear when I did what the direction says...

I just got the apI ammo and the apI kit for freshwater. .

 

Test for nitrates, you might just already be cycled. Shake bottle number 2 really good because it has some stuff at the bottom that needs to blend in with the rest of the liquid.

Make sure you give the test tubes a few minutes to develop their correct color.

 

I don't know about the bettafix during the water change, I think you just put that straight into the tank after a water change. Read the labels to be sure, put too much in and your tank will take way longer to cycle because bettafix is an antibiotic. Other than that, yeah you got it correct.

Bettafix isn't an antibiotic, it's basically just tea tree oil

 

Bettafix isn't an antibiotic, it's basically just tea tree oil

Well yeah, technically not an antibiotic , but it attacks bacteria and can still slow down the nitrogen cycle.

 

Well yeah, technically not an antibiotic , but it attacks bacteria and can still slow down the nitrogen cycle.

Actually it's more dangerous to be used in an uncycled tank which it seems OP's is. If it was cycled Ammo lock wouldn't need to be used. Also it may be better to be more clear when providing info because you said at least twice that it's an antibiotic which leads new fish owners to think that it's strong enough to treat real illness that may require a real antibiotic such as triple sulfa or kanamycin.

OP I would actually recommend switching over to Seachem Prime instead of Stress Coat especially if your tank is still cycling. Prime detoxifies ammonia, nitrite and heavy metals, as well as dechlorinates the water. Stress Coat has little to no effect on what I just mentioned. Prime also already includes stress guard as well. You're welcome to continue the bettafix if you'd like but I'd actually recommend using aquarium salt and Indian Almond Leaves.

 

Actually it's more dangerous to be used in an uncycled tank which it seems OP's is.

Ok, take the floor.
-I know the tank isn't cycled, that's why I recommended ammo lock and prime
-I told her not to use stress coat and to instead use ammo lock because the tank isn't cycled
-You are correct, antibiotic was the wrong word, I apologize. API's website used the word "Antibacterial", I guess I got a little screwed up

I'll pass this onto you, you seem to know more than I do.
Also this isn't me being angry/aggressive, don't get me wrong. I think you are more suitable than me.
Good luck OP!

*Also as a quick clarification, she isn't using stress coat as a conditioner at the moment, I told her to use prime or ammo lock instead. She went with ammo lock. I personally didn't see much of a problem with that, but I guess they're different enough?

 

Ok, take the floor.
-I know the tank isn't cycled, that's why I recommended ammo lock and prime
-I told her not to use stress coat and to instead use ammo lock because the tank isn't cycled
-You are correct, antibiotic was the wrong word, I apologize. API's website used the word "Antibacterial", I guess I got a little screwed up

I'll pass this onto you, you seem to know more than I do.
Also this isn't me being angry/aggressive, don't get me wrong. I think you are more suitable than me.
Good luck OP!

I'm sorry if I came off too harsh. I was skimming the thread and just wanted to clarify a few things for OP. I did notice you were the only one helping and you were definitely steering OP in the right direction

 

Thank you guys but what happened? Thank you matt for continually helping me...I trusted you since you are the only one who really talk and walk with me throughout since the first day I got worried with my betta...

Now since everything is okay.... remember the new tank that my hubby got me that wasn't able to cycle... I just put the neons around 830pm and now they are all dead.... but the thing now is how can I cycle it with the ammolock and stress coat in it...I just literally started to run the tank with 2 days old tap water...

 

Thank you guys but what happened? Thank you matt for continually helping me...I trusted you since you are the only one who really talk and walk with me throughout since the first day I got worried with my betta...

Racing1113 came into the thread to help out, and I misinterpreted it as someone telling me I was all wrong. We're back on track though.

 

Sorry I messed up....in the new tank its only ammo lock that I put in....

 

Sorry I messed up....in the new tank its only ammo lock that I put in....

8 ppm ammonia? That'll still be toxic even with the ammo lock... yikes. Keep the ammonia under 2 ppm. Ammo lock is not meant to cycle the aquarium, but help the fish survive the cycle. If you want a product that can speed up the cycle, Tetra Safestart Plus has worked for me in the past. It contains the live bacteria inside it that you need to cycle the aquarium. Avoid products like API Quick Start and Top Fin Bacteria supplement. Those have a non aquatic bacteria that will die off fast. For now, in the betta tank, keep up with the water changes and monitor ammonia daily, keep it in the o.5/1 ppm area, don't let it get above 2 ppm.

 

Nope....

0ppm ammonia

Maybe the fish got stress from the basin then acclimated transfered to the 5.5 gal tank

 

Is the ammonia in the betta tank 0ppm as well?

Was the water for the tetras at the right temp as well?

 

My question now is how to do the cycle with the ammolock in it...coz literally this is my day to start doing the cycle but I put the fish coz my husband doesn't want to return them and they where just in the basin...I'm so messed up....

80F

0ppm ammonia in the betta tank

 

It was probably stress, that would be my best guess. Ammo lock doesn't get rid of ammonia, it just converts it into ammonium, which is a less toxic form of ammonia. So you can still cycle a tank using it. Did you test for nitrates?

 

I gave half dose as what advice from the bettafix for 2nd day now...I don't know if I'm going to continue it...coz it says 7 days without water change??? I'm so undecided about that

I just test the ph and ammonia for the new tank...so that's good ill just continue it until it was ready for new fish...I thought I'm going to clean it and start all over again tomorrow...

 

If nitrates appear in the tank it's a sign that the nitrogen cycle has already taken place. Also, the bettafix isn't really needed, the damage will heal by itself simply by good water quality.

 

*Also as a quick clarification, she isn't using stress coat as a conditioner at the moment, I told her to use prime or ammo lock instead. She went with ammo lock. I personally didn't see much of a problem with that, but I guess they're different enough?

Whoops, sorry, I missed that. So the reason I like Prime is that it detoxifies ammonia and nitrites, as well as heavy metals, plus dechlorinates as well as having stress guard. Stress coat only dechlorinates, helps slime coat, and detoxifies heavy metals. Ammo lock only dechlorinates and detoxifies ammonia. Most people are fine just using a regular water conditioner but I just like that Prime does everything.

 

Okay then ill stop the bettafix now...I'm doing what u suggested with twice a week partial water change...thank u

First bittle is the ammonia and the 2nd one is the nitrate from the betta tank... so I the ammonia is .5 to 1ppm and the nitrate 0ppm..

I already put ammo lock in the betta tank since its 1ppm or .5ppm..

 

First bittle is the ammonia and the 2nd one is the nitrate from the betta tank... so I the ammonia is .5 to 1ppm and the nitrate 0ppm..

Ok that's more what I expected. Keep the ammonia in that area, using ammo lock and stress coat as a conditioner. First you will notice nitrItes appear, then a couple weeks later nitrAtes will appear.
It takes a little while, so be patient. Test the water daily or at least every other day and keep an eye on nitrItes.

Whoops, sorry, I missed that. So the reason I like is that it detoxifies ammonia and nitrites, as well as heavy metals, plus dechlorinates as well as having stress guard. only dechlorinates, helps slime coat, and detoxifies heavy metals. only dechlorinates and detoxifies ammonia.

I myself also use prime. I thought the only difference was that prime was concentrated so you could use less of it over time. So if you use ammo lock and stress coat together isn't it pretty similar to using prime?

 

So for now I will just use the stress coat and ammo lock since I still need to look for prime.coz I can't find it in the petsmart.... and also I'm looking for the fluval biolohical booster..is that good?

I already put the advice dosage of the ammolock in the betta tank now and I will do my partial water change on saturday

 

So for now I will just use the stress coat and ammo lock since I still need to look for prime.coz I can't find it in the petsmart.... and also I'm looking for the fluval biolohical booster..is that good?

I don't know about that fluval product, there's a lot of ones that don't work out there. I only have good experience with safestart plus. I have also used API Quick Start and Top Fin Bacteria Supplement, both of which were complete failures. Tetra Safestart Plus cycled my tank in 2 weeks. Also, petsmart sells Prime for very expensive. I got mine online for $12 on amazon, where petsmart sells it for over $20.

 

I'm cycling the other new tank with the steps from wikihow...then ill just go with the flow with what u have said about the cycling in the betta tank...thank you...

Okay that's good to know about the prime thing.... but do stress coat and ammolock works same as prime when combined right? So for now ill just cycle the new tank the normal way since where not that eager to get new fish...

 

Okay that's good to know about the prime thing.... but do stress coat and ammolock works same as prime when combined right? So for now ill just cycle the new tank the normal way since where not that eager to get new fish...

From what I understand, it does do the same thing together, except for detoxifying nitrites, so just keep them low. They're about half as toxic as ammonia so keep them low and you'll be good. prime smells like rotten eggs anyways...

 

So if ever the nitrites gets up what can I do? Like the way I understand... ammonia first gets up then gets low when the nitrites gets up then gets low when the nitrates gets up the cycle is almost done and ready for fish but do partial cgange first before adding fish right?

 

Yeah that's correct. If nitrites ever go above 1 ppm just do a partial change to bring them down a little.

 

Okay thanks a lot from all the help and walking with me to all of this new stuffs with me... update...the betta fins are looking good and the transparent membrane developing from the ripped part is getting longer... I'm not giving now the bettafix as I will just trust the normal healing process...have a nice day... ill go back to you once ther's something happened that's not scope with what you've taught me....thank you so much...

And one last thing for now....is it okay not to use hesleter during the cycling...as my betta tank is always 80-82f and my new tank is at 83 now....thank

 

As long as the water temperature remains within 75-85 degrees, your betta will be ok. The bacteria can grow in your tank at a wide range of temperature, so that's ok too.

 

As long as the water temperature remains within 75-85 degrees, your betta will be ok. The bacteria can grow in your tank at a wide range of temperature, so that's ok too.

Okay...thank you very much

 

Hello again matt.. as I just tested the water now 0ppm ammonia and .25ppm nitrite.. but the water became like cloudy...what can I do is it okay to do partial change or just leave it alone...

 

That's good that there's nitrite. Cloudy water is common during a cycle, and is actually a sign that bacteria are colonizing. The cloudiness will clear once the cycle is complete most likely.

 

So that's perfectly fine that's good...I'm so worried earlier and I did my 25%pwc instead of tomorrow.... thank you...

That's it

 

The tail got worst after it is healing for almost 4 days....and it got torn futher in some parts where the healing takes place

 

Ok, I have to assume at this point he is doing it to himself, maybe because of poor water quality has returned with the nitrites in the tank. I didn't think nitrites at such low ppm would cause a problem, but at this point, I would go out and get some seachem prime to detoxify the nitrite. The reasons for a betta biting his own fins are mostly unknown, it could be because of poor water quality, hunger, stress, boredom, or just plain genetics. I'd start with getting the water quality to improve, with prime.

 

It's a nervous habit most of the time

 

Esrly this morning....the old ripped one is healing from its super deep ripped before

 

This is now it looks like as 4pm

 

Okay...but my local petsmart doesn't have it...I will just order it from amazon then.... also I fo a partial 50% water change ahead of scheduled pwc for tomroow as advice by someone in my other threads thst I posted here regarding my cloudy water....