Cacret
- #1
HI guys! I am making this thread because normally I would look at the Aquarium Stocking Questions section and Betta section, and I have been noticing some questions that I may be able to answer. Hopefully many will be able to learn from this Anyways time to begin:
BETTA TANKMATES:
This part is because I see people want to keep bettas with other fish. I will just simply say that they can't possible be kept with fish without even the slightest aggression. Now some of you may say that you are able to keep bettas with other fishes for several years. Lucky you! But always be ready for a problem. Now I looked around and noticed many have kept them with other fish and inverts for months, then one day he went on a rampage. I have successfully kept bettas with Livebearers, Rams, Tetras, Corydoras, and loaches. As well as a few others. But , I always have a 5 gal ready just in case. Bettas are meant to be a one in a tank fish. Now I mentioned that because a lot usually debate on tank mates for a betta. Anyways, some really safe fish and inverts to keep with bettas would be, corydoras, ottos, and snails. They are the safest. Although when keeping a cory and otto with a betta, I would recommend a minimum of 15 gallons. Even though male bettas are quite slow, they can severely injure the fish, in some cases kill them. The tank mates would need space to swim away . Platies, mollies, a female betta, tetras , mosquito fish, and shrimp are pssible, but would be a major risk. I would recommend only snails however with a betta. Especially if you're a beginner. Two males can't live in the same tank.
BETTA WATER REQUIREMENTS:
Bettas prefer a temperature of 74-82 °F , and the kH of 0-25. pH would be 6-8
BETTA DISEASES-
(Cacret)Fin rot, tail rot and ich are the most common diseases a betta could have. Just do a bit of research on them, and you'll know how to treat them! Anyways, I use methylene blue to treat fin rot, tail rot and ich that my Betta and other fish have. There are other solutions.
(By echi1 : ) Dropsy and Constipation are also common in bettas.
Using the heat treatment method for treating ick is a great method!
BETTA TANK SIZE:
5 gal minimum for a betta. With tank mates a 15-20 gallons. Now through a lot of pictures , and your pet store , you'll see people keep bettas in cups, jars and worst , fish bowls. That's right less than a LITER! Those types of "aquariums" are not just inhumane due to size, but are also easy to get the water levels high(ammonia , nitrite, nitrate) . Please read up on the Nitrogen Cycle . Don't be part of inhumane acts like stunting and fish bowls!
BETTA EMERGENCIES:
(Not eating)In most cases, the betta would not eat. My betta is sometimes like that. What I do considering they're carnivores, I feed them bloodworms. Most likely that would encourage them.
(Sudden community tank death) I'd transfer him to his own tank , preferably a 5 , because I've noticed bettas who don't like tank mates are those who are more active.
(Shredded fins) Remove all substrate , it must have been staying at the bottom and the fins got damaged. Remove tankmates, they could be nipping. Perhaps it is fin rot? Just treat it
(by kuhliloach85) BETTA FOO
Bettas are a carnivorous (meat-eating) fish. They require animal protein to survive and thrive. Naturally, bettas feed on insect larvae found at the surface levels -- these include: bloodworms, mosquito larvae, daphnia (water fleas), microworms, and a host of other worms/larvae.
Many types of food are available for the domesticated betta, including: live, frozen, freeze-dried, and manufactured (flakes, pellets, etc).
LIVE FOO Preferred, and a favorite among breeders, if there is no danger of parasites or pathogens. A common live food to feed bettas are wingless fruit flies or brine shrimp, which can be cultivated.
FROZEN: Frozen foods are a good bet for those who can't keep live food or want less risk of pathogens. Commercially available frozen food is almost always treated for pathogens/parasites, reducing the risk from feeding live. A variety of frozen foods can be found in local fish store/chain store freezers. Most popular items include frozen bloodworms, frozen mysis (shrimp), frozen brine shrimp, and frozen beefheart.
FREEZE-DRIE Freeze-dried foods are available at most pet stores. Common freeze-dried foods for bettas include bloodworms, mysis, daphnia, and brine shrimp. Freeze-dried foods are less nutritional than frozen foods, due to processing, and should only be fed sparingly (once/week). Some betta owners claim that freeze-dried foods contribute to bloating/constipation issues. Freeze-dried foods should ALWAYS be reconstituted in tank water 10 minutes prior to feeding to reduce risk of bloating. These foods are intended as a treat, not a staple diet.
MANUFACTURED (PELLETS, FLAKES): Many Betta fish food formulas are available in the form of pellets. These float (and/or sink) and are appealing to many bettas, and in many cases are an appropriate staple diet. The best brands on the market are New Life Spectrum, Omega One, among others. Look for foods that list specific whole animal proteins among their first ingredients. "Fillers" like "brewers yeast", vegetation, or "fish meal" should be avoided. Avoid "flakes" -- I have yet to see a decent flake food on the market appropriate for bettas.
Take care not to overfeed your fish -- they are ravenous eaters, designed to eat opportunistically when food is available, and will easily gorge themselves if given the chance. Overfeeding can lead to serious issues like bloating and Swim Bladder Disease. Many betta keepers feed their fish 1-2 times daily, with very small amounts at a time (their stomach is only as big as their eye -- so portion are very small!) Many betta keepers fast their fish (do not feed) one day a week to allow for a natural cleanse. A healthy betta can go for days without eating if needed.
BETTA BREEDING:
When breeding bettas, place a divider in a tank, one side for the male and one side for the female. Putting the temperature to above 80°F (not above 82 ) promotes breeding. Anyways, see if the male and female like each other, observe the behavior, and if they stop flaring and whatnot, remove the divider. Once the female betta develops vertical stripes, and the male makes a bubble nest, wait for the eggs, and then theyll hatch.
•When the bettas' gender can be identified , separate immediately to avoid a betta massacre.
•When the male and female end breeding and start flaring and trying to kill each other, separate
•Not always will the female nor the male be "open" to the idea of breeding.
BETTA CONCLUSION:
Bettas are a "lonely fish". Bettas like warmer waters. Bettas are prone to being nipped, and are prone to constipation, dropsy, fin, tail rot, and ich. Bettas need a minimum of 5 gallons. They are carnivorous fish that prefer meaty food
Hope this helped! Comment on feedback (I like feedback, it helps me improve) and what other topics I missed and need to change.
Thanks,
-Cacret, proud owner of a happy and peaceful betta.
BETTA TANKMATES:
This part is because I see people want to keep bettas with other fish. I will just simply say that they can't possible be kept with fish without even the slightest aggression. Now some of you may say that you are able to keep bettas with other fishes for several years. Lucky you! But always be ready for a problem. Now I looked around and noticed many have kept them with other fish and inverts for months, then one day he went on a rampage. I have successfully kept bettas with Livebearers, Rams, Tetras, Corydoras, and loaches. As well as a few others. But , I always have a 5 gal ready just in case. Bettas are meant to be a one in a tank fish. Now I mentioned that because a lot usually debate on tank mates for a betta. Anyways, some really safe fish and inverts to keep with bettas would be, corydoras, ottos, and snails. They are the safest. Although when keeping a cory and otto with a betta, I would recommend a minimum of 15 gallons. Even though male bettas are quite slow, they can severely injure the fish, in some cases kill them. The tank mates would need space to swim away . Platies, mollies, a female betta, tetras , mosquito fish, and shrimp are pssible, but would be a major risk. I would recommend only snails however with a betta. Especially if you're a beginner. Two males can't live in the same tank.
BETTA WATER REQUIREMENTS:
Bettas prefer a temperature of 74-82 °F , and the kH of 0-25. pH would be 6-8
BETTA DISEASES-
(Cacret)Fin rot, tail rot and ich are the most common diseases a betta could have. Just do a bit of research on them, and you'll know how to treat them! Anyways, I use methylene blue to treat fin rot, tail rot and ich that my Betta and other fish have. There are other solutions.
(By echi1 : ) Dropsy and Constipation are also common in bettas.
Using the heat treatment method for treating ick is a great method!
BETTA TANK SIZE:
5 gal minimum for a betta. With tank mates a 15-20 gallons. Now through a lot of pictures , and your pet store , you'll see people keep bettas in cups, jars and worst , fish bowls. That's right less than a LITER! Those types of "aquariums" are not just inhumane due to size, but are also easy to get the water levels high(ammonia , nitrite, nitrate) . Please read up on the Nitrogen Cycle . Don't be part of inhumane acts like stunting and fish bowls!
BETTA EMERGENCIES:
(Not eating)In most cases, the betta would not eat. My betta is sometimes like that. What I do considering they're carnivores, I feed them bloodworms. Most likely that would encourage them.
(Sudden community tank death) I'd transfer him to his own tank , preferably a 5 , because I've noticed bettas who don't like tank mates are those who are more active.
(Shredded fins) Remove all substrate , it must have been staying at the bottom and the fins got damaged. Remove tankmates, they could be nipping. Perhaps it is fin rot? Just treat it
(by kuhliloach85) BETTA FOO
Bettas are a carnivorous (meat-eating) fish. They require animal protein to survive and thrive. Naturally, bettas feed on insect larvae found at the surface levels -- these include: bloodworms, mosquito larvae, daphnia (water fleas), microworms, and a host of other worms/larvae.
Many types of food are available for the domesticated betta, including: live, frozen, freeze-dried, and manufactured (flakes, pellets, etc).
LIVE FOO Preferred, and a favorite among breeders, if there is no danger of parasites or pathogens. A common live food to feed bettas are wingless fruit flies or brine shrimp, which can be cultivated.
FROZEN: Frozen foods are a good bet for those who can't keep live food or want less risk of pathogens. Commercially available frozen food is almost always treated for pathogens/parasites, reducing the risk from feeding live. A variety of frozen foods can be found in local fish store/chain store freezers. Most popular items include frozen bloodworms, frozen mysis (shrimp), frozen brine shrimp, and frozen beefheart.
FREEZE-DRIE Freeze-dried foods are available at most pet stores. Common freeze-dried foods for bettas include bloodworms, mysis, daphnia, and brine shrimp. Freeze-dried foods are less nutritional than frozen foods, due to processing, and should only be fed sparingly (once/week). Some betta owners claim that freeze-dried foods contribute to bloating/constipation issues. Freeze-dried foods should ALWAYS be reconstituted in tank water 10 minutes prior to feeding to reduce risk of bloating. These foods are intended as a treat, not a staple diet.
MANUFACTURED (PELLETS, FLAKES): Many Betta fish food formulas are available in the form of pellets. These float (and/or sink) and are appealing to many bettas, and in many cases are an appropriate staple diet. The best brands on the market are New Life Spectrum, Omega One, among others. Look for foods that list specific whole animal proteins among their first ingredients. "Fillers" like "brewers yeast", vegetation, or "fish meal" should be avoided. Avoid "flakes" -- I have yet to see a decent flake food on the market appropriate for bettas.
Take care not to overfeed your fish -- they are ravenous eaters, designed to eat opportunistically when food is available, and will easily gorge themselves if given the chance. Overfeeding can lead to serious issues like bloating and Swim Bladder Disease. Many betta keepers feed their fish 1-2 times daily, with very small amounts at a time (their stomach is only as big as their eye -- so portion are very small!) Many betta keepers fast their fish (do not feed) one day a week to allow for a natural cleanse. A healthy betta can go for days without eating if needed.
BETTA BREEDING:
When breeding bettas, place a divider in a tank, one side for the male and one side for the female. Putting the temperature to above 80°F (not above 82 ) promotes breeding. Anyways, see if the male and female like each other, observe the behavior, and if they stop flaring and whatnot, remove the divider. Once the female betta develops vertical stripes, and the male makes a bubble nest, wait for the eggs, and then theyll hatch.
•When the bettas' gender can be identified , separate immediately to avoid a betta massacre.
•When the male and female end breeding and start flaring and trying to kill each other, separate
•Not always will the female nor the male be "open" to the idea of breeding.
BETTA CONCLUSION:
Bettas are a "lonely fish". Bettas like warmer waters. Bettas are prone to being nipped, and are prone to constipation, dropsy, fin, tail rot, and ich. Bettas need a minimum of 5 gallons. They are carnivorous fish that prefer meaty food
Hope this helped! Comment on feedback (I like feedback, it helps me improve) and what other topics I missed and need to change.
Thanks,
-Cacret, proud owner of a happy and peaceful betta.