Beginner Quarantine?

SharkBaitOohHannah
  • #1
Hey everyone!

I'm a total beginner currently about halfway through a 29 gallon aquarium cycle. As I plan the way I'm going to stock, I realize I'm going to have to introduce fish gradually, and that I might need to quarantine. My current plan is to introduce about 10 cardinal tetras, probably in two groups. If that goes well, I also want to add an angelfish, and possibly either a few cory catfish or a bristle nose pleco. I'm going to try to space this out a bit to avoid overloading the tank. My first concern is about the tetras. If I buy them from the same place, about a week apart, should I just add them all to the tank immediately, add only the first group immediately, or quarantine everyone? Then, for the other fish, what's the best quarantine setup I can do on the cheap? Finally, what medicines do you tend to use for quarantine, if any? Thanks very much!
 
Seasoldier
  • #2
Hi, I'd cycle the tank then add all 10 cardinals at the same time from the same batch then leave it a week or two while keeping an eye on the water parameters to let the BB colony catch up with the bio-load then think about adding corys / Bn plec & lastly the angel. As for quarantine I always think about where the stock is coming from, is it a reputable local fish store which does just aquatics or is it a big store like Pet Smart / PetCo etc.? If it's a good smallish local shop & you get all your fish from the same store then quarantine isn't strictly necessary just make sure the fish all look healthy & the tanks are clean with no dead or sick fish in them, all the tanks in the shop will probably be inter-connected for filtration & water flow anyway. If the fish are coming from a big store with a high turnover of cheap fish I'd definitely quarantine each new ones before adding to the main tank, same if you get them by mail order. I'd look for a second hand 10 gallon for a Qt tank try your local sell & swap websites or craigslist you should be able to pick up what you need fairly cheaply. Medicines I'd only think of using if a particular sickness / disease shows itself while the fish are in Qt, you can do more harm than good by adding stuff you don't need to just use a good water conditioner like Prime or similar & make sure the water is kept really clean (don't forget to cycle the Qt tank as well). Good luck & I hope you enjoy the hobby (obsession lol).
 
Zka17
  • #3
Just a thought... if you are going to setup a quarantine tank, then it would be ideal to place a sponge filter right now in the main tank, so you would have it ready when time comes for setting up the quarantine (then just move the sponge and you will have instant cycling.

I would skip the pleco for sake of corys... You could use Seachem ParaGuard for the new fish to be on the safe side.
 
SharkBaitOohHannah
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
Just a thought... if you are going to setup a quarantine tank, then it would be ideal to place a sponge filter right now in the main tank, so you would have it ready when time comes for setting up the quarantine (then just move the sponge and you will have instant cycling.

I would skip the pleco for sake of corys... You could use Seachem ParaGuard for the new fish to be on the safe side.
Thank you very much! If you were quarantining with ParaGuard would you supplement with anything else? Also, would you put the first batch of fish straight into the tank or quarantine first? Thanks for your advice!

Hi, I'd cycle the tank then add all 10 cardinals at the same time from the same batch then leave it a week or two while keeping an eye on the water parameters to let the BB colony catch up with the bio-load then think about adding corys / Bn plec & lastly the angel. As for quarantine I always think about where the stock is coming from, is it a reputable local fish store which does just aquatics or is it a big store like Pet Smart / PetCo etc.? If it's a good smallish local shop & you get all your fish from the same store then quarantine isn't strictly necessary just make sure the fish all look healthy & the tanks are clean with no dead or sick fish in them, all the tanks in the shop will probably be inter-connected for filtration & water flow anyway. If the fish are coming from a big store with a high turnover of cheap fish I'd definitely quarantine each new ones before adding to the main tank, same if you get them by mail order. I'd look for a second hand 10 gallon for a Qt tank try your local sell & swap websites or craigslist you should be able to pick up what you need fairly cheaply. Medicines I'd only think of using if a particular sickness / disease shows itself while the fish are in Qt, you can do more harm than good by adding stuff you don't need to just use a good water conditioner like Prime or similar & make sure the water is kept really clean (don't forget to cycle the Qt tank as well). Good luck & I hope you enjoy the hobby (obsession lol).
Thank you so much! This is extremely helpful! As much as possible, I'm going to be sourcing from a LFS in my area. My grandpa has been buying fish there for as long as I can remember, so I think they are pretty dependable. What is a good indication that the tank is handling the bioload, i.e. how would you decide that the tank is ready for more fish after the initial tetras? Thanks so much for your advice!
 
Islandvic
  • #5
SharkBaitOohHannah , for a cheap and easy quarantine tank setup, use the following.....

*5 gallon bucket
*Cheap 50watt heater (Petsmart has the 50w Aqueon for $14 online for example)
*cycled sponge filter and airpump

Plus, when you use a 5 gallon bucket as a QT, you can do water changes very easy.....

Keep the sponge filter the main tank to keep it cycled, and pull it out for the QT as needed.

Also, here is a LINK for a thread on the forum, those gives many examples of adding DIY media to your filter.

It allows you to eliminate cartridges, which saves you money, increases filtration and keeps your cycle going better.

Be on the look out for ich. Many times it doesn't appear for awhile, only to pop up after a few days or a week or two later.

If you ever get fish that show signs of Ich, let us know on a new thread and we will help.

Good luck
 
SharkBaitOohHannah
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
SharkBaitOohHannah , for a cheap and easy quarantine tank setup, use the following.....

*5 gallon bucket
*Cheap 50watt heater (Petsmart has the 50w Aqueon for $14 online for example)
*cycled sponge filter and airpump

Plus, when you use a 5 gallon bucket as a QT, you can do water changes very easy.....

Keep the sponge filter the main tank to keep it cycled, and pull it out for the QT as needed.

Also, here is a LINK for a thread on the forum, those gives many examples of adding DIY media to your filter.

It allows you to eliminate cartridges, which saves you money, increases filtration and keeps your cycle going better.

Be on the look out for ich. Many times it doesn't appear for awhile, only to pop up after a few days or a week or two later.

If you ever get fish that show signs of Ich, let us know on a new thread and we will help.

Good luck
Thanks for your help! How do you know when a sponge filter is cycled? Or, to put it more clearly, about how long should you leave a sponge filter in a cycled tank before you could use it for a quarantine?
 
Gone
  • #7
Quarantine issues arise no matter who you get your fish from. Yes, the big box stores have a worse reputation for selling sick fish, but you can't tell by looking at the fish whether they're carrying a disease. Many fish diseases are dormant until the fish gets stressed, so they might look perfectly healthy in the store but crash as soon as you get them home.

The quarantine issue is a matter of practicality. Are you willing to take a risk of your entire tank crashing? I'll admit I've taken that chance before when it would not be practical to set up a quarantine tank.

Sometimes when people start tanks, their first tank is essentially their quarantine tank.

At aquariumcoop they have a "med trio." I use it. Erythromycin, API General Cure (parasites), and ICH-X. It's a popular medication trio to use for quarantine. I've used it and haven't ever seen a bad reaction with my fish.

I will say that after a couple doses in my fish room of the med trio, I still suspected there were some internal parasites. I had occasional fish that would stay slender no matter how much I fed them. I ordered some Levamisole online, figured out how to dose it, and now all my fish are chubby.
 

SharkBaitOohHannah
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
Quarantine issues arise no matter who you get your fish from. Yes, the big box stores have a worse reputation for selling sick fish, but you can't tell by looking at the fish whether they're carrying a disease. Many fish diseases are dormant until the fish gets stressed, so they might look perfectly healthy in the store but crash as soon as you get them home.

The quarantine issue is a matter of practicality. Are you willing to take a risk of your entire tank crashing? I'll admit I've taken that chance before when it would not be practical to set up a quarantine tank.

Sometimes when people start tanks, their first tank is essentially their quarantine tank.

At aquariumcoop they have a "med trio." I use it. Erythromycin, API General Cure (parasites), and ICH-X. It's a popular medication trio to use for quarantine. I've used it and haven't ever seen a bad reaction with my fish.

I will say that after a couple doses in my fish room of the med trio, I still suspected there were some internal parasites. I had occasional fish that would stay slender no matter how much I fed them. I ordered some Levamisole online, figured out how to dose it, and now all my fish are chubby.
Thanks for the medicinal advice! So, when you were starting your tanks initially (that's where I am right now) did you still set up a smaller quarantine tank, or did you just dose the whole tank? Thanks!
 
Gone
  • #9
When I just had a couple of tanks, I just dosed it all and didn't have a separate quarantine tank. I got more tanks, and treated them all like they were a single system, and treated them all. I got a few plecos from the LFS down the street, and soon I had 20 tanks of ich-infected fish. I almost left the hobby.

I hadn't quarantined the new plecos, because they were from a trusted source and they looked fine.

If you just have one tank, and you're starting out, I can't think of why you'd want to fuss around with a separate quarantine tank. It's a matter of how devastating it would be for your tank to be wiped out. If you have your perfect tank all laid out with your favorite fish you'll probably want to quarantine to protect the tank. It's a matter of how valuable it is to your situation. A quarantine tank doubles the work.
 
SharkBaitOohHannah
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
When I just had a couple of tanks, I just dosed it all and didn't have a separate quarantine tank. I got more tanks, and treated them all like they were a single system, and treated them all. I got a few plecos from the LFS down the street, and soon I had 20 tanks of ich-infected fish. I almost left the hobby.

I hadn't quarantined the new plecos, because they were from a trusted source and they looked fine.

If you just have one tank, and you're starting out, I can't think of why you'd want to fuss around with a separate quarantine tank. It's a matter of how devastating it would be for your tank to be wiped out. If you have your perfect tank all laid out with your favorite fish you'll probably want to quarantine to protect the tank. It's a matter of how valuable it is to your situation. A quarantine tank doubles the work.
I think I'll probably just dose the whole tank as you said. I'm nervous about fussing around with cycling a sponge filter when I'm only just barely managing the one. Thanks!
 
Islandvic
  • #11
I recently started to use Ruby Reef's Hydroplex as a dip. (LINK)

When I moved my fish from my 20 gallon into my already established 75g, I gave them a 10 min dip per instructions.

I broke down the 20 gallon to setup a 55 gallon in its place, and received 15 mbuna and a syndontis cuckoo catfish from Live Fish Direct today, after taking advantage of their 4th of July sale.

I also gave them a 10 min dip after temperature acclimating them.

I've never had to treat fish for illness beyond the normal ich though.

When I've treated for Ich, I would raise the temp and either use Kordon's "Ich Attack" herbal formula or their "Rid Ich Plus" meds. and Kordon's website has a lot of good info on their products; including ingredients, dosing and contraindications.

Heat + Kordon's meds + frequent large water changes/substrate vacs always worked for me when treating ich.

When treating for Ich, it is good practice to continue your method of treatment at least 10 days past the last visible sign of Ich.

My original 10 gallon QT/ hospital tank turned into a full time tank.

That is why I switched to the 5 gallon bucket QT method.

My recent mbuna purchase went directly into the 55 gallon though, since I had just set it up and had nothing in it.

Also, here is a good deal on Ruby Reef's "Rally/Kick Ich" combo pack.... (LINK).
 
SharkBaitOohHannah
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
I recently started to use Ruby Reef's Hydroplex as a dip. (LINK)

When I moved my fish from my 20 gallon into my already established 75g, I gave them a 10 min dip per instructions.

I broke down the 20 gallon to setup a 55 gallon in its place, and received 15 mbuna and a syndontis cuckoo catfish from Live Fish Direct today, after taking advantage of their 4th of July sale.

I also gave them a 10 min dip after temperature acclimating them.

I've never had to treat fish for illness beyond the normal ich though.

When I've treated for Ich, I would raise the temp and either use Kordon's "Ich Attack" herbal formula or their "Rid Ich Plus" meds. and Kordon's website has a lot of good info on their products; including ingredients, dosing and contraindications.

Heat + Kordon's meds + frequent large water changes/substrate vacs always worked for me when treating ich.

When treating for Ich, it is good practice to continue your method of treatment at least 10 days past the last visible sign of Ich.

My original 10 gallon QT/ hospital tank turned into a full time tank.

That is why I switched to the 5 gallon bucket QT method.

My recent mbuna purchase went directly into the 55 gallon though, since I had just set it up and had nothing in it.

Also, here is a good deal on Ruby Reef's "Rally/Kick Ich" combo pack.... (LINK).
I've been really curious about dip treatments, as they seem much more economically sensible than trying to dose a whole tank, but simpler than setting up a quarantine tank. What do you think of using that as a sort of mini-quarantine? Obviously, it is riskier, but it's better than doing nothing. Thanks so much!
 
Islandvic
  • #13
A dip is used to treat either a know ailment or when introducing new fish to a tank.

Dips have their purpose. While not a 100% substitute for quarantining, are better than nothing.

I would suggest a good sized water change and vac of the substrate 2x a week for a few weeks after introducing new fish that can't be quarantined.

Water changes and good consistant water parameters can reduce stress, which in turn improves health and immune system.

Where I live, we have a Petsmart, a Petco and one LFS.

Most LFS' have access to multiple vendors, while big box stores have 1-3 depending on their regional contracts.

It is very possible the LFS and big box store use the same vendor, such as Segrest Farms in Florida.

I have found the quality of fish really depends on the store's manager, and how well they keep the fish dept running.
 
SharkBaitOohHannah
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
A dip is used to treat either a know ailment or when introducing new fish to a tank.

Dips have their purpose. While not a 100% substitute for quarantining, are better than nothing.

I would suggest a good sized water change and vac of the substrate 2x a week for a few weeks after introducing new fish that can't be quarantined.

Water changes and good consistant water parameters can reduce stress, which in turn improves health and immune system.


I have found the quality of fish really depends on the store's manager, and how well they keep the fish dept running.
This is a great suggestion. This is more a general question, but what would you consider a good sized water change. I was thinking about 40-50%, but is this too large for a community tank? Thanks!
 
Islandvic
  • #15
You will probably get different answers, but 40-50% is what I consider a good sized water change.

I had a 20 gallon community tank for 1 1/2 years and a still running 75 gallon community tank. I do 40-60% water changes as needed for general maintenance. I figured if I already had everything out for a water change, might as well change out a lot of water.

Smaller 25% changes would probably still work for me, but our plants outside really enjoy the tank water!

For the larger tank, I use a pump and hose to drain water to my plants in back yard, and another hose w/ adapter that connects to a sink faucet to refill. Makes it a lot easier.
 
SharkBaitOohHannah
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
You will probably get different answers, but 40-50% is what I consider a good sized water change.

I had a 20 gallon community tank for 1 1/2 years and a still running 75 gallon community tank. I do 40-60% water changes as needed for general maintenance. I figured if I already had everything out for a water change, might as well change out a lot of water.

Smaller 25% changes would probably still work for me, but our plants outside really enjoy the tank water!

For the larger tank, I use a pump and hose to drain water to my plants in back yard, and another hose w/ adapter that connects to a sink faucet to refill. Makes it a lot easier.
The idea of hosing water directly out to the plants is great! Do you do that with a really long hose and a siphon? Thanks!
 
Islandvic
  • #17
Last year, I bought a 25ft and 50ft length of 1/2" inner diameter vinyl hose on sale. I also got a fitting to connect the two hoses when I need the length.

To drain water to the plants, I hook the hoses up to a pump.

I will first use a gravel vac to clean the substrate into a 5 gallon bucket. Then I will drain with the pump.
 

Gone
  • #18
The idea of hosing water directly out to the plants is great! Do you do that with a really long hose and a siphon? Thanks!

It's amazing what aquarium water will do for flowers and plants. We had a crazy spider plant lady at work who had a hard time keeping her plants alive. I started filling empty water bottles with aquarium water when I siphoned the gravel and gave them to her to water her plants. Before long her office was overrun with new growth. If you have any plants, try it. You'll be amazed.
 
MisterSnuffles
  • #19
Hi everyone. Alright so Im a beginner and I have a 4 gallon tank. Its overstocked and it has a betta, amano, nerite, and an oto (i didnt know they liked groups when i bought him). I got the tank three months ago and it was betta only. But i needed a clean up crew STAT so i bought the others a month ago. I got them from the same store. I asked if I should qt and they said that I should be ok because they take out sick fish from their tanks. And i know they are used to the same micro organisms i think because they use the same water. Im getting a 20g community tank in a few months and I have a stocking plan, but im not sure if I should qt even when they are coming from the same store. I have a plastic tub for when they get sick, but do I use the qt net or the tank net to catch the sick ones? And how do I dissenfect the filter, heater, net, etc.? Im sorry its long but I want to be sure I can do it.
And how often do I do water changes in the qt tank and how much? And do i have to qt the first fish/fishes that I get? Or can they go straight in?
 
BigManAquatics
  • #20
I do weekly water changes on a qt tank, same as the other tanks, unless i am treating with meds, then i go by those directions. I would probably use a regular tank net for sick fish myself, but not sure. I do have all of my qt tank gear marked with red tape to avoid that cross-contamination.

Unless it is something like TB, most fish diseases the bacteria already lives in the water anyway and get the fish when they are stressed, so most things won't require a disinfection, a good rinse with hot water should be decent.
 
Tankseeker
  • #21
I always qt new fishes just gives me peace of mind but if it’s a wild caught fish all the more you have to do it
For nets etc
I would get a whole new set of thing just so there’s no cross contamination don’t need two infected tanks!
 
MisterSnuffles
  • #22
I always qt new fishes just gives me peace of mind but if it’s a wild caught fish all the more you have to do it
For nets etc
I would get a whole new set of thing just so there’s no cross contamination don’t need two infected tanks!
Should i catch a sick fish in the main tank with the qt net or main tank net? And which one to return it to the main tank?
 
Tankseeker
  • #23
qt bet for handling sick fish ,basically if it touched the sick fish don’t use it for the main tank
Net not bet sorry
Also I suggest bare bottom tanks for qt tanks
 
MisterSnuffles
  • #24
qt bet for handling sick fish ,basically if it touched the sick fish don’t use it for the main tank
Net not bet sorry
Awesome thanks. The first fish i get will probably be 3 honey gouramis. Can i just put those in the tank without qt since they will be the first?
 
Tankseeker
  • #25
No never not qt it is for the safety of your future fish ,always qt even though it’s a long proccess
 
MisterSnuffles
  • #26
No never not qt it is for the safety of your future fish ,always qt even though it’s a long proccess
Bummer. But better safe than sorry. I assume i shouldn't treat for anything unless i see something is wrong? And for 3 weeks right? Ive also heard that amano shrimp dont have to be in qt since they dont transfer many diseases to fish. Is that true?
 
Tankseeker
  • #27
You should use a general cure when qt such as Indian almond leaves or medication just to kill of any small bacterias
I just qt anything even plants as they might carry ich even tho they are not affected they would spread it so do qt shrimp
Yes for 3 weeks but if you spot signs of illness leave the fish there to observe
 
MisterSnuffles
  • #28
You should use a general cure when qt such as Indian almond leaves or medication just to kill of any small bacterias
I just qt anything even plants as they might carry ich even tho they are not affected they would spread it so do qt shrimp
Yes for 3 weeks but if you spot signs of illness leave the fish there to observe
Even plants? Oh boy. Thats gonna be a pain. I thought you didnt have to do plants.
Even plants? Oh boy. Thats gonna be a pain. I thought you didnt have to do plants.
I trust my LFS so I guess with fish its good to qt but its not a guarantee that they will get sick right?
 
Tankseeker
  • #29
Yes maybe not all but not uncommon to see one get slightly sick
Yes plants too because ich sticks to plants
Overall qt is a very important thing and something you can’t skip on
 

Similar Aquarium Threads

Replies
42
Views
2K
NicksFishTanks
  • Question
Replies
7
Views
381
Fwreef86
Replies
5
Views
493
oldsalt777
Replies
4
Views
435
jjfish
Replies
4
Views
304
bananasmile
Top Bottom