Beginner / New Aquarium owner

Kwinsee

Member
Hi all
Just a quick hello.
Brand new to this hobby and hoping to pick your brains on this as it seems I can’t get straight info from anyone in my local pet stores.
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Hi all
Just a quick hello.
Brand new to this hobby and hoping to pick your brains on this as it seems I can’t get straight info from anyone in my local pet stores.
Welcome!
 

Betta'sAnonymous

Member
Welcome! I don't have much brains to pick through, but we can give it a go anyhow!
 

StinkyLoaf

Member
Welcome! :happy:

You’re sure to find useful information here!
 

mimo91088

Member
Welcome aboard!
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Hi all
Nice to meet you all.

This started as a gift for my daughter but as with all of our pets, I ended up inheriting the responsibility, in a good way of course

Please forgive me for the length of this post and lack of the right terminology.

purchased the following on March 8th 2021:

-30 gallon aquarium

-Aquaclear 50 filter

-1 bottle Nutrafin Cycle

-1 bottle Nutrafin Aqua Plus

-Some gravel and decorations

I was told by the employee that I’d need to establish the water for at least a week before adding fish. So we did.

after a week (March 15th) we brought a sample of the water for testing and the employee said we were good on all levels. We bought 2 fish (1 Oranda and 1 Telescope goldfish). After a week we performed our first cleaning/water change. We ended up changing nearly 50% of the water (as recommended by the employee).

This is where the problems begun.

March 22nd I purchased my own API testing kit to keep an eye on the water quality levels. Once I tested the water and got these readings

PH: 7.2

Ammonia: 2.0 ppm

Nitrite: 0.5 ppm

Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

I panicked as I was told the ammonia and nitrite have to be 0 at all times and are toxic to the fish.

after some google searches, it seems it was recommended to perform some water changes. So for the next 3 nights I performed 50% water changes.

after which my readings changed to:
Ammonia: 0.25
Nitrite: 2.0
Nitrate: 5.0

These readings have been the same for the last 10 days or so. I have performed a few 30% water changes since then but still no changes.

I apologize in advance for the following as I know I should have done more research before embarking in this but some other facts / questions:

1) how much are we supposed to feed these fish? I keep getting mixed info. I was told to buy Nutrafin Max. The instructions on the bottle say to feed them as much as they’ll eat for 2 minutes / 2-3 times a day. This seems very ambiguous and not clear for someone who has never done this before. Firstly, my fish don’t go to the top to eat. They seem to catch some of the food as it sinks and the Oranda is much quicker than the Telescope. I do see the Telescope searching for food on the bottom from time to time but there’s no way for me to know if they’re eating “enough”. I believe we were over feeding the fish and this may be the reason for the ammonia spike. I can say that we were probably giving them close to 30 pellets/balls per day. After the spike I read to stop feeding them for a while and continue with the water changes to lower the ammonia. someone told me 4 pellets per fish per day is enough but I have no idea.

2) I purchased a Python to do my water changes. I want to make sure I’m doing this right. Say, for instance, I change 50% of the water and do my best to match the temperature of the water when refilling. Does this mean that I need to add 1.5 ML of Prime to the tank to help with dechlorination ? The recommended amount is 1ML per 10 gallons, so my logic is 50% of 30 gallons is 15 gallons which works out to 1.5 ML of prime. Does this make sense? I’m not sure how much to add. I’m also not sure if I’m supposed to add anything else. Should I be adding 50% of the recommended Nutrafin Cycle as well?

3) how frequently should I be cleaning the tank and filter? The filter includes a sponge, a pack of carbon and a pack of rocks (not sure what terms are for these components).

4)the fish don’t seem to be doing to well. I haven’t lost hope but I’m worried it’s just too far gone. The Oranda is just sorta floating on the top and occasionally moves a bit but for the most part just swims to a corner and then floats to the middle. The Telescope moves a lot more but in the last couple of days is also hanging at the top of the aquarium. I read this might be because they don’t like the quality of the water but I don’t know what to do since I only have 1 tank. Any recommendations?

5)what can I do to get my water back to the levels they need to be? If possible can I have step by step instructions?

I really want to like this hobby, but so far it seems I’m off on a bad foot and I don’t want to give up.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Q
 

AggressiveAquatics

Member
Welcome! Unfortunately the store gave you some very bad info. You need to go through a proper nitrogen cycle before adding fish because a week is not long enough. But you can do a fish In cycle you’ll just need to be willing to do lots of water changes
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
AggressiveAquatics said:
Welcome! Unfortunately the store gave you some very bad info. You need to go through a proper nitrogen cycle before adding fish because a week is not long enough. But you can do a fish In cycle you’ll just need to be willing to do lots of water changes
What do you mean by “lots”? What % / how frequently? Do I have to add product to the water each time I do a change?
 

Betta'sAnonymous

Member
Kwinsee said:
What do you mean by “lots”? What % / how frequently? Do I have to add product to the water each time I do a change?
Your Prime you will need to add. I think most people treat for the whole tank when using a pythom
 

Dennis57

Member
Hi, and Welcome to Fishlore.

As stated you were told wrong information from your LFS, they are there to sell, and sell only.

It normally takes about a month to cycle a tank.
 

AggressiveAquatics

Member
Kwinsee said:
What do you mean by “lots”? What % / how frequently? Do I have to add product to the water each time I do a change?
Your going to need to be monitoring the ammonia and nitrites along the way. For a fish in cycle a 30-50 percent water change is usually necessary every other day but in some cases if ammonia gets to high (anywhere above .50 IMO) it might need to be daily until your tank is cycled which can take around 4 weeks. And yes you’ll need to add dechlorinator every time you change the water
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
AggressiveAquatics said:
Your going to need to be monitoring the ammonia and nitrites along the way. For a fish in cycle a 30-50 percent water change is usually necessary every other day but in some cases if ammonia gets to high (anywhere above .50 IMO) it might need to be daily until your tank is cycled which can take around 4 weeks. And yes you’ll need to add dechlorinator every time you change the water
Thanks for the reply. Do I add 3ML (bottle recommends 1ML per 10 gallons) of Prime for the whole 30 Gallon tank or do I adjust according to the % of water changed?
 

Dennis57

Member
Kwinsee said:
Thanks for the reply. Do I add 3ML (bottle recommends 1ML per 10 gallons) of Prime for the whole 30 Gallon tank or do I adjust according to the % of water changed?
When I do water changes I dose for the whole tank
 

crezguy

Member
Welcome to the hobby ..!
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Hi again
Just a quick update. Sadly my Oranda didn’t make it. The telescope is still kicking but im worried since he is more lethargic than before.
I took the advice and completed 2 water changes since posting this. The first 30%, the second 50%. After the 2nd I added 15ML of Prime and 15 ML of Nutrafin Cycle in an attempt to lower the nitrite. My readings are now:
PH: 7.2

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0.25 ppm

Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

Do I have to continue to do anything to get the Nitrite down to 0?
How do I know when my tank is cycled?
When should I clean my filter since I’m trying to cycle and I only have one fish?
(Reminder, I started my tank on March 8th)
Please keep in mind I still have the one fish so I guess this is considered a fish in cycle.
Thanks again
Q
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Hi again
Just a quick update. Sadly my Oranda didn’t make it. The telescope is still kicking but im worried since he is more lethargic than before.
I took the advice and completed 2 water changes since posting this. The first 30%, the second 50%. After the 2nd I added 15ML of Prime and 15 ML of Nutrafin Cycle in an attempt to lower the nitrite. My readings are now:
PH: 7.2

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0.25 ppm

Nitrate: 5.0 ppm

Do I have to continue to do anything to get the Nitrite down to 0?
How do I know when my tank is cycled?
When should I clean my filter since I’m trying to cycle and I only have one fish?
(Reminder, I started my tank on March 8th)
Please keep in mind I still have the one fish so I guess this is considered a fish in cycle.
Thanks again
Q
Hi! Yes you have to continue until you get the nitrite down to 0. You’ll know that your cycle is complete when after 24 hours of doing a water change, the ammonia and nitrite register as 0 and you have nitrates.

I’m not sure if you have the carbon packet (the packet of black stuff) in your filter, but you don’t need that FYI. Just take that out and save it somewhere in case you need to clear up any medicine from the water at some point. I’d say every 2 weeks, just wring out the sponge from the filter and swish the biomedia in a bucket of tank water to clean the filter. At least every 6 months you’ll want to clean the impeller of the filter too.

I’d say you’re pretty close to the cycle being done also, since you only have a bit of nitrite, no ammonia, and some nitrate. When the cycle is done, make sure to only add a few fish every 5 days or so when stocking to not overwhelm the freshly established aquarium.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Thanks so much for your thorough reply!
I’ll remove the carbon as you recommend.I’ll also continue with the water changes but just for clarity:
1) what % should I change to get this nitrite to 0?
2) how frequently? (Daily/every other day?)
3) should I continue to add 15ML of Prime and Nutrafin Cycle ?

thanks again
Q
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Thanks so much for your thorough reply!
I’ll remove the carbon as you recommend.I’ll also continue with the water changes but just for clarity:
1) what % should I change to get this nitrite to 0?
2) how frequently? (Daily/every other day?)
3) should I continue to add 15ML of Prime and Nutrafin Cycle ?

thanks again
Q
If you can, keep the nitrite at 0.25. If that’s not possible, 0.5 is the next best reading. Any time it gets above 0.5, do a 50% water change and dose the 15ml of prime. Test every day so you can keep an eye on the nitrite. I’d say to dose the Nutrafin according to the amount of water you remove from the tank after each water change, so dose it for 15 gallons after each water change as well.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Freshfishguy said:
If you can, keep the nitrite at 0.25. If that’s not possible, 0.5 is the next best reading. Any time it gets above 0.5, do a 50% water change and dose the 15ml of prime. Test every day so you can keep an eye on the nitrite. I’d say to dose the Nutrafin according to the amount of water you remove from the tank after each water change, so dose it for 15 gallons after each water change as well.
thanks for the reply
Should I not be aiming to get the Nitrite to 0?
It’s been holding at 0.25 (almost 0) for 24hrs.
if it holds at this reading for the next couple of days is it safe to assume it’s cycled and I can add another fish?
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
thanks for the reply
Should I not be aiming to get the Nitrite to 0?
It’s been holding at 0.25 (almost 0) for 24hrs.
if it holds at this reading for the next couple of days is it safe to assume it’s cycled and I can add another fish?
So in terms of water changes while your tank is cycling, keep the nitrite between 0.25-0.5. Your tank is cycled when after 1 day of doing a water change, the nitrite and ammonia are zero and you have nitrate levels. Don’t add any more fish until you see that the nitrite is zero for a few days in a row. That picture looks like the nitrite is indeed at 0, so if it holds at that for another 2 days I’d say you’re good to add a couple more fish .
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
So it seems the Nitrite has gone up again.
Somewhere between 0.25 and 0.5. Ammonia is still 0ish (hard to tell) You mentioned that I should keep it there. Not sure how to keep that level. Should I continue with water changes?
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
So it seems the Nitrite has gone up again.
Somewhere between 0.25 and 0.5. Ammonia is still 0ish (hard to tell) You mentioned that I should keep it there. Not sure how to keep that level. Should I continue with water changes?
Yes. If it rises to 0.5, do a 50% water change.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Freshfishguy said:
Yes. If it rises to 0.5, do a 50% water change.
So i tested again this morning and for some reason the Nitrite is closer to 2.0 now .
I did a 50% change right after and added 15 ML of Prime and 10ML of Nutrafin Cycle.
Ill test again in the evening and I’ll report back with the results. How is it possible the Nitrite is going up if the ammonia is sitting at 0?
Should I be waiting to see if the Nitrite will go down by itself before doing the water change?

Thanks
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
So i tested again this morning and for some reason the Nitrite is closer to 2.0 now .
I did a 50% change right after and added 15 ML of Prime and 10ML of Nutrafin Cycle.
Ill test again in the evening and I’ll report back with the results. How is it possible the Nitrite is going up if the ammonia is sitting at 0?
Should I be waiting to see if the Nitrite will go down by itself before doing the water change?

Thanks
Patience is key with cycling! Don’t worry, you are close to finishing. Do NOT wait for the nitrite to go down on its own, definitely do a water change like you did today. Continue to test every day and soon after 1 day of doing a water change you’ll have a zero nitrite reading. The nitrite is rising because all the ammonia is being converted into nitrite but the bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate hasn’t developed in sufficient quantities yet. The bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrite is one type of bacteria we grow during the cycling process. The bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate is an entirely different type of bacteria that we must also culture during the cycling process.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Freshfishguy said:
Patience is key with cycling! Don’t worry, you are close to finishing. Do NOT wait for the nitrite to go down on its own, definitely do a water change like you did today. Continue to test every day and soon after 1 day of doing a water change you’ll have a zero nitrite reading. The nitrite is rising because all the ammonia is being converted into nitrite but the bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate hasn’t developed in sufficient quantities yet. The bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrite is one type of bacteria we grow during the cycling process. The bacteria that converts nitrite to nitrate is an entirely different type of bacteria that we must also culture during the cycling process.
Thanks
Sadly my second fish passed. The levels were looking good but when I tested this morning the ammonia is now at 2.0 and nitrite at 0.25. I read that ammonia can spike when a fish dies as they release ammonia. I now have a fish less aquarium. I did a 50% water change and dosed with 15ML prime and 10 ML cycle.
Any suggestions at this point or do I just continue to monitor and water change accordingly?
Thanks Q
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Thanks
Sadly my second fish passed. The levels were looking good but when I tested this morning the ammonia is now at 2.0 and nitrite at 0.25. I read that ammonia can spike when a fish dies as they release ammonia. I now have a fish less aquarium. I did a 50% water change and dosed with 15ML prime and 10 ML cycle.
Any suggestions at this point or do I just continue to monitor and water change accordingly?
Thanks Q
I’m sorry for your loss. You need to keep dosing ammonia during the cycle. I would recommend buying some Dr. Tim’s Pure ammonia (or some other pure ammonia—it has to be pure ammonia if you go this route). Otherwise you can just dose fish food, but that can get pretty messy and you have to make sure when the cycle is complete to get all the decaying food out of the tank. I definitely would recommend reading up on how to do a fishless cycle.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Freshfishguy said:
I’m sorry for your loss. You need to keep dosing ammonia during the cycle. I would recommend buying some Dr. Tim’s Pure ammonia (or some other pure ammonia—it has to be pure ammonia if you go this route). Otherwise you can just dose fish food, but that can get pretty messy and you have to make sure when the cycle is complete to get all the decaying food out of the tank. I definitely would recommend reading up on how to do a fishless cycle.
Thanks
I’m all lost on where I’m at with the cycle now. This ended up being a fish in cycle which I wasn’t even aware existed until I started frequenting these forums. The tank has been cycling for nearly 5 weeks now. After the 1st week I added the 2 goldfish because that’s what the pet store told me to do. The first fish died on week 3. The 2nd fish died yesterday. I’ll buy ammonia as you recommend, but what am I trying to achieve with it?
From what I read, my goal is to try to raise the ammonia levels in hopes of getting nitrite. To what end though? I’ve had nitrite for a few weeks (for a while at 2ppm, but it finally went down after water changes) so I’m not sure I understand this step at this point. The nitrite seems to be hovering around 0-0.25 now. The ammonia at 0-0.25. Nitrate at 5.0.
Would adding ammonia to my tank basically bring it back to square one?
Really sorry to keep asking questions, I just feel like I’m failing at this lol.
 

Mhamilton0911

Member
Hi, welcome! Sorry about your situation.

So when doing a fish in cycle, fish provide the ammonia which is food for the bacteria. This way needs to be monitored closely to keep fish healthy with the ammonia and nitrite levels below 1ppm combined. Cycle considered completed when you have 0 ammonia&nitrites, and showing nitrates.

When doing fishless cycles, you need to add ammonia, by way of liquid ammonia or fish food. Liquid ammonia is easier in terms of getting adequate levels. Ghost feeding with fish food is harder to control the exact amounts, but not impossible.

So now that your last fish is gone, make sure to add an ammonia source of choice to feed your bacteria that's grown so far. If there's no fish, it's OK for the levels to be high, no livestock is in danger. You can still do water changes too, but there needs to be ammonia for the bacteria to eat or what Cycle you've grown will starve and die and you'll start over. Keep it around 1-2ppm if you can, that's what's commonly recommended.

Edited to add, when using the python, we typically treat for the whole volume of the tank. Some shut filters off while filling, I do, some others don't. It probably matters how paranoid a person is. But that's another discussion in itself
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Thanks
I’m all lost on where I’m at with the cycle now. This ended up being a fish in cycle which I wasn’t even aware existed until I started frequenting these forums. The tank has been cycling for nearly 5 weeks now. After the 1st week I added the 2 goldfish because that’s what the pet store told me to do. The first fish died on week 3. The 2nd fish died yesterday. I’ll buy ammonia as you recommend, but what am I trying to achieve with it?
From what I read, my goal is to try to raise the ammonia levels in hopes of getting nitrite. To what end though? I’ve had nitrite for a few weeks (for a while at 2ppm, but it finally went down after water changes) so I’m not sure I understand this step at this point. The nitrite seems to be hovering around 0-0.25 now. The ammonia at 0-0.25. Nitrate at 5.0.
Would adding ammonia to my tank basically bring it back to square one?
Really sorry to keep asking questions, I just feel like I’m failing at this lol.
No problem!! I was really confused the entire first cycle and for a while after too lol.

You have to keep adding ammonia because that’s the key chemical/compound that feeds the cycle when you don’t have fish in the tank.

The nitrogen cycle in an established tank has fish waste/poop (which is ammonia) that gets converted by one type of bacteria into nitrite. Then another type of bacteria converts the nitrite into a much less harmful compound called nitrate.

Even if your tank was established (what we call a tank that has completed its cycle), ammonia is what keeps the cycle stable and established because it feeds the nitrogen cycle in our tanks. In my tank that has been up for almost a year, if I took all the fish out and didn’t add ammonia the beneficial bacteria that I grew during the cycling process and which keeps the water safe would starve.

So your goal is to keep feeding pure ammonia or fish food which when it deteriorates in the water will release ammonia. One type of bacteria converts it to nitrite which is still super harmful to fish, and then another type converts it to nitrate which we monitor once the tank is finished cycling by doing regular water changes. Once your tank is done cycling, you will have a reading of 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and some nitrates because the bacteria have grown enough to convert all the ammonia and nitrite into nitrate seamlessly without letting those levels rise. So you’re goal is to be able to keep feeding the tank an ammonia source consistently but not be getting any ammonia or nitrite because the bacteria will have grown enough to process those.

Let me know if that makes sense.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Thanks for the replies
So I can’t find ammonia anywhere and from what I researched it seems it’s not easy to find in Canada. Some say it’s even illegal to sell here.
I guess I have to go the food route. I know it’s not an exact science, but any recommendations? As in , how much food?my goal is to raise the ammonia to what number?
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Thanks for the replies
So I can’t find ammonia anywhere and from what I researched it seems it’s not easy to find in Canada. Some say it’s even illegal to sell here.
I guess I have to go the food route. I know it’s not an exact science, but any recommendations? As in , how much food?my goal is to raise the ammonia to what number?
I would say anything 3ppm and under is good. However, you may not see it rise too much because you are already partially cycled and thus a lot of the ammonia is being converted to nitrite. I would just feed the same amount of fish food that you were feeding to your fish that passed, so a small pinch, once every other day during the cycle.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Perfect
I added about 5 grains of food yesterday evening and took some readings this morning. I suspect as you said the tank should already be partially/close to completely cycled at this point.
I’m seeing the same readings as yesterday.
Ammonia: 0.25ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm

Should I do anything else at this point (In terms of water changes / adding prime etc)? You’re confident the numbers will eventually go to 0/0 with some nitrate if I keep adding food every other day?

I suspect, as you said, the tank should already be partially/close to completely cycled at this point.

Again, for the record, if my ammonia/nitrite go down to 0 and stay at 0 (with some nitrate ), for 3 days in a row, my tank is cycled? The readings are so close to 0 right now it’s hard to distinguish between 0 and 0.25. Should it be a CLEAR 0? Or are my readings close enough because perhaps the test isn’t 100%

*just a side note, and I’m not sure this is relevant, but the API test instructions say to leave the vials alone for 5 minutes after adding the drops and that’s when you can see your readings. I’ve noticed that if I leave the water in the vials for about an hour or so, the readings are different. After 5 mins, 0.25 for ammonia and nitrite, after an hour, it’s clearly 0 for both readings. Not sure why this is.
attached are the readings after 5 mins. I’ll post the same vials after an hour.
Thanks
Q
 

Flyfisha

Member
Only the colour at five minutes counts . After 7 or 8 minutes the test is no longer worth looking at.

The issue with adding dry foods to feed bacteria is that it takes more than a few days for the food to begin to rot. Only rotting food produces ammonia. The bacteria only eat ammonia.

Ammonia can not legally be sold in Australia anymore, since 9 11.
But a few aquarium shops sell it behind the counter in Sydney. You could try asking if a mum and dad shop has any ammonia.

You could also start adding food to conditioned water in a cup to let it begin to rot for a few days before you add that to the fish tank?
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Perfect
I added about 5 grains of food yesterday evening and took some readings this morning. I suspect as you said the tank should already be partially/close to completely cycled at this point.
I’m seeing the same readings as yesterday.
Ammonia: 0.25ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm

Should I do anything else at this point (In terms of water changes / adding prime etc)? You’re confident the numbers will eventually go to 0/0 with some nitrate if I keep adding food every other day?

I suspect, as you said, the tank should already be partially/close to completely cycled at this point.

Again, for the record, if my ammonia/nitrite go down to 0 and stay at 0 (with some nitrate ), for 3 days in a row, my tank is cycled? The readings are so close to 0 right now it’s hard to distinguish between 0 and 0.25. Should it be a CLEAR 0? Or are my readings close enough because perhaps the test isn’t 100%

*just a side note, and I’m not sure this is relevant, but the API test instructions say to leave the vials alone for 5 minutes after adding the drops and that’s when you can see your readings. I’ve noticed that if I leave the water in the vials for about an hour or so, the readings are different. After 5 mins, 0.25 for ammonia and nitrite, after an hour, it’s clearly 0 for both readings. Not sure why this is.
attached are the readings after 5 mins. I’ll post the same vials after an hour.
Thanks
Q
I would suggest also not doing any water changes or adding prime during the cycle now. Like Flyfisha said, you will probably start to get ammonia leaching from the food you put in yesterday tomorrow.

In regards to what you said about the 3 days—yes. The ammonia is sometimes hard to read, so the main thing will be if it looks like it is 0-0.25. You should definitely be able to tell if the nitrite is zero though. Feel free to post pictures of the test tubes here if you need help.
 

darkcat

Member
You shouldn't trust pet store people in my opinion. This may not be your question but some tips that I use? (I also didn't read all of the posts so some of them might be the same, or off the topic)

1. Do a 50% ( or 80% if your fish is hardy) water change when ammonia and nitrites add up to one. ( Example: 0.25 ammonia and 0.75 nitrites)
2. If your doing a fish-in cycle ( fish-less cycle is better for beginners) use Prime because it detoxifies the ammonia for the fishes.
3. You don't have to do water changes if your nitrate level is low.
4. Test water daily and keep track. (write it in your notebook)
( I only did fish-in cycle, so this may not be what you're looking for, but next time maybe this'll help?)
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Freshfishguy said:
I would suggest also not doing any water changes or adding prime during the cycle now. Like Flyfisha said, you will probably start to get ammonia leaching from the food you put in yesterday tomorrow.

In regards to what you said about the 3 days—yes. The ammonia is sometimes hard to read, so the main thing will be if it looks like it is 0-0.25. You should definitely be able to tell if the nitrite is zero though. Feel free to post pictures of the test tubes here if you need help.
Day 3
Added a bit more food last night
Same exact readings:

Ammonia: 0.25ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm

guess I’m just waiting for the Nitrite be a clear 0 at this point.
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Day 3
Added a bit more food last night
Same exact readings:

Ammonia: 0.25ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm

guess I’m just waiting for the Nitrite be a clear 0 at this point.
Have patience and hang in there. It’s worth it. You can add plants to the tank during the cycling and do other decorating if you’re getting itchy fingers lol.
 

tapwater

Member
I see you're already getting great help from other members here on the forum; what a wonderful way to get started in the community. Glad to see you around, and hope you enjoy your stay!
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Freshfishguy said:
Have patience and hang in there. It’s worth it. You can add plants to the tank during the cycling and do other decorating if you’re getting itchy fingers lol.
Hanging in there lol. I would add plants but I read plants aren’t good for fancy goldfish (which is what we plan to have if/when this cycle works )

Day 4
Same readings
Ammonia: 0.25ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm
tapwater said:
I see you're already getting great help from other members here on the forum; what a wonderful way to get started in the community. Glad to see you around, and hope you enjoy your stay!
Everyone’s been super helpful. I will definitely contribute if/when I get the hang of this
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Hanging in there lol. I would add plants but I read plants aren’t good for fancy goldfish (which is what we plan to have if/when this cycle works )

Day 4
Same readings
Ammonia: 0.25ppm
Nitrite: 0.25ppm
Nitrate: 5ppm

Everyone’s been super helpful. I will definitely contribute if/when I get the hang of this
If you do want plants despite having goldfish, I’d recommend taking a look at this— 5 Easy Plants for Goldfish Aquariums. Also MD Fish Tanks is a great resource. He plants his goldfish tanks too and has a how to
(he has a couple videos on goldfish planted tanks).
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Freshfishguy said:
If you do want plants despite having goldfish, I’d recommend taking a look at this— 5 Easy Plants for Goldfish Aquariums. Also MD Fish Tanks is a great resource. He plants his goldfish tanks too and has a how to
(he has a couple videos on goldfish planted tanks).
He has some really nice setups. Definitely gonna consider this

update DAY 5
Ammonia 0.5 ppm
Nitrite 2.0? ppm
Nitrate 5.0 ppm

does this make sense? Haven’t done any water changes. Just added food as suggested.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Hi all
Day 8
4 days straight. Still stuck at :

Ammonia 0.5 ppm
Nitrite 2.0 ppm
Nitrate 5.0 ppm

all I’ve been doing over the past week is adding small amounts of food every night (since I don’t have access to ammonia).
do I just continue doing that at this point? Should I be doing ANYTHING else or is it just a matter of waiting as mentioned above?
Thanks
Q
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
Hi all
Day 12

been adding fish food (about 5 pellets per night) as ammonia source.
Ammonia 0.5ppm (stuck here for about 6 days)
Nitrite 2.0ppm (stuck here for about 7 days)
Nitrate 10ppm

this is the first time I’ve seen the nitrate higher than 5ppm.
Sorry to be redundant but is there anything else I should be doing?
I haven’t added anything to the water except fish food for the last 10 days.
I just want to be sure I’m doing this right and it’s just a matter of patience now. If so, no problem, I’ll wait.

Thanks
Q
 

Freshfishguy

Member
Kwinsee said:
Hi all
Day 12

been adding fish food (about 5 pellets per night) as ammonia source.
Ammonia 0.5ppm (stuck here for about 6 days)
Nitrite 2.0ppm (stuck here for about 7 days)
Nitrate 10ppm

this is the first time I’ve seen the nitrate higher than 5ppm.
Sorry to be redundant but is there anything else I should be doing?
I haven’t added anything to the water except fish food for the last 10 days.
I just want to be sure I’m doing this right and it’s just a matter of patience now. If so, no problem, I’ll wait.

Thanks
Q
I would add flake food rather than pellets. From the cycle guru Mattgirl and others I’ve heard that pellets don’t seem to be an effective way of producing ammonia because they don’t decompose as rapidly or in the same way as flake food. Other than that, yup keep at it!
 

mattgirl

Member
Instead of me asking a lot of questions I replied to your message to me asking you to start a new thread. In it if you will fill out the nitrogen cycle template it will help us be on the same page. Nitrogen Cycle Template | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 494741

Please tag me so I won't miss the thread. Just add an @ before my name and it will let me know where the thread is.
 
  • Thread Starter

Kwinsee

Member
mattgirl said:
Instead of me asking a lot of questions I replied to your message to me asking you to start a new thread. In it if you will fill out the nitrogen cycle template it will help us be on the same page. Nitrogen Cycle Template | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle Forum | 494741

Please tag me so I won't miss the thread. Just add an @ before my name and it will let me know where the thread is.
Thanks, just to be clear, do you prefer I reply here with the template or start an entirely new thread ?
 

mattgirl

Member
Kwinsee said:
Thanks, just to be clear, do you prefer I reply here with the template or start an entirely new thread ?
I would start a new thread. This one started out with fish. I am assuming both fish died and you are now doing a fishless cycle. Try to condense everything that has happened since the start up until now in the new thread.
 

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