Beginner Marine Aquarist - I Know It Is Often Asked But I Have Quite A Few Questions.

I was wondering what sort of technical equipment I might need such as powerheads and whether they are necessary or not. I want to setup a FOWLR tank and would like it to be relatively small no more than 30 gallons. Also I was wondering if an RODI machine is necessary as I don't have any pet shops around me that supply water or even ready mixed saltwater and I also don't have a tap with a suitable head. I would like to start off with a fowlr tank and I'm thinking of getting a 10 gallon with a single yellow-tailed damsel fish however I'm not sure if that's the best choice. I'm sorry I'm not too experienced with saltwater I'm 14 years old and ive had a few freshwater tanks so I know the basics. If there are any useful tips please tell me.

Thanks a lot

 

Don't worry, all of us had lots of questions at first!

Yes, a FOWLR tank does need powerheads, at least one. If you got a 20 long or a 29 gallon, a Jebao SW-4 will be plenty. For a 20 long a Jebao SW-2 will be good. I would highly suggest the higher quality powerhead as opposed to a cheaper korallia. Members on here started out using korallias and they broke quickly and then they switched to the Jebao and loved it. I started with the Jebao per their recommendation and love it.

An RO/DI unit is not necessary for a FOWLR. However, if you ever get into keeping corals you will need to get one or buy RO/DI water. A RO/DI unit purifies the water extremely pure so there is no contaminants. Then you add salt mix to it and mix it up. You don't have to have a tap with a suitable head. I don't, I just use my garden hose from outside. Your best bet if nobody sells RO/DI unit or saltwater is to buy salt mix (instant ocean sea salt will work fine) and mix it yourself with tap. It would best if you had the RO/DI water, but for just a FOWLR plain tap "should" work as long as it doesn't have lots of contaminents.

I would suggest starting with a 20 long. Its short height makes it easy to light should you ever want corals, lots of surface area perfect for gaseous exchange, and it has a big footprint.

You could do a pair of yellow tailed damsels in a 10 but... you wouldn't be able to keep any other fish. If you got the 20 or 29 heres fish that can go in: Firefish, gobies, clownfish, six line wrasse, blennies, royal gramma, cardinalfish. For instance, I have a 20 reef and I have a yellow watchman goby paired with a pistol shrimp right now, I'm going to be getting a clownfish pair soon, and then a six-line wrasse.

 

Don't worry, all of us had lots of questions at first!

Yes, a FOWLR tank does need powerheads, at least one. If you got a 20 long or a 29 gallon, a Jebao SW-4 will be plenty. For a 20 long a Jebao SW-2 will be good. I would highly suggest the higher quality powerhead as opposed to a cheaper korallia. Members on here started out using korallias and they broke quickly and then they switched to the Jebao and loved it. I started with the Jebao per their recommendation and love it.

An RO/DI unit is not necessary for a FOWLR. However, if you ever get into keeping corals you will need to get one or buy RO/DI water. A RO/DI unit purifies the water extremely pure so there is no contaminants. Then you add salt mix to it and mix it up. You don't have to have a tap with a suitable head. I don't, I just use my garden hose from outside. Your best bet if nobody sells RO/DI unit or saltwater is to buy salt mix (instant ocean sea salt will work fine) and mix it yourself with tap. It would best if you had the RO/DI water, but for just a FOWLR plain tap "should" work as long as it doesn't have lots of contaminents.

I would suggest starting with a 20 long. Its short height makes it easy to light should you ever want corals, lots of surface area perfect for gaseous exchange, and it has a big footprint.

You could do a pair of yellow tailed damsels in a 10 but... you wouldn't be able to keep any other fish. If you got the 20 or 29 heres fish that can go in: Firefish, gobies, clownfish, six line wrasse, blennies, royal gramma, cardinalfish. For instance, I have a 20 reef and I have a yellow watchman goby paired with a pistol shrimp right now, I'm going to be getting a clownfish pair soon, and then a six-line wrasse.

I really appreciate the advice. For the water I have some dechlorinator that I use for my Freshwater tanks which I will add. For the tank I would prefer to only keep a pair of fish or a single fish because I'm not great at making sure all fish get fed and I just like the idea of not too many fish. I may get corals in the future. Dp you think I could keep a pair of ocellaris clownfish or a single one? Also would a coral such as Green star polyp survive in tap water if I change my mind later on.
thanks a lot

Oh yeah a 20 gallon long seems like a great choice I'm glad it can work for beginners. I was considering it but a few people said it might be too small. I will try my best to make the conditions as best as possible. Are there any filter media that are necessary such as carbon or a sump?

 

That should work. Do you know your pH, Alkalinity, nitrate, ammonia and nitrite in your tap? If you have any ammonia or nitrite it won't work. I think it should, as long as your parameters are decent. A single pair of clownfish would be fine. And you could put those in a 10 gallon if you were just keeping them. In just a 10 gallon you could put either the clowns or the yellow-tailed damsels.

Do you know if you're ever going to get into the corals? FYI, once you do... they're very addicting lol. Sump would be good but not needed for a FOWLR. So you know that the Live Rock is your filtration right? And the powerhead blowing the water over the live rock is what makes sure all the ammonia is gone? I know lots of people, me included, make DIY refugiums with an aquaclear. Basically, you mod it (its really easy, you don't have to buy anything extra) so it will hold macro algae and live rock rubble and sometimes a little place for filter floss. The macro algae uses nitrates and phosphates to grow, and takes those out of the system. The live rock rubble provides a spot for all the good bacteria and good micro-organisms to grow. The filter floss is optional, jst for keeping your water clear. Carbon is a good thing to have on hand if you have corals in case they decide to have some chemical warfare haha

 

Thanks for your reply!
However, I am 14 years old and don't think I could build a refugium and I don't think I would really need it. I would probably go for a 20 gallon just because in the future I would have a few more options and stick with a pair of clowns for now. Also I'm not sure about the levels and toxins in my tap water. Do you know how I could test them?

 

With a test kit. Do you have one for your freshwater aquariums? Just test your tap like you would your aquarium. Get a cup of tap water, and test it

 

I'm going to have to disagree on the RODI until unless he happens to have tap water with a really low TDS (most don't). TDS=Total Disolved Solids (ie minerals, chemicals, etc) in your water and very few places have low TDS water. The problem is that a higher TDS is more likely to produce unwanted things (ie Out of control Green Hair Algae). My recommendation would be to buy a TDS Meter and test your tap water. If it's 50 or below then you will probably be okay. If it's higher than that it will likely cause more problems then it solves and simply treating the tap water won't remove the solids. It's also hit and miss as to how your fish will respond to these minerals/chemicals that they have never been exposed to in the ocean. A decent RODI system will run you $120-$150 and this will produce zero TDS water. I agree you can get away without a sump for the size of the tank as well as not needing a protein skimmer as long as you stay on top of water changes. Personally I would recommend a 20 gallon long for a tank under 30 gallons as it will give you a shallow tank with a 30 inch running length (which captive bred clownfish will definitely use). 10 gallons is really pushing it for a pair of clowns and will be harder to keep the water perimeters stable and it will be a pain for evaporation. Evaporation is a bigger concern with saltwater tanks since water evaporates but salt doesn't, therefore as your water evaporates your salinity increases. Hence you need to add more freshwater in between water changes to keep the salinity down. The 20 Long will be easier to light than a standard tank and would be ideal for corals if you add them in the future. It also makes it much easier for you to adjust and clean things in the tank since you don't have to reach in up to your armpit to reach the bottom of the tank (take it from a guy with a 2 foot deep tank it isn't fun).

 

Thanks for the advice, I will look into buying an RO/DI machine as I'm sure it will cause much less hassle and stress. Also I wanted to ask if it is possible to have live sand but no live rock as I have no lfs that provide it and I don't think it is very live online. I am currently stuck on what tank to buy as I would like something that has some equipment with it. Also I live in the UK so I miss out on all those great deals you guys have in the USA. Ive heard about the dollar per gallon sale that must be awesome! One last question, are clownfish hardy? I will try my best to keep the water parameters as best as I can but I want to make sure that if I make a rookie mistake that they won't suffer too much. I'm not completely sure about them as they are quite pricey around here. the equivalent of 30 dollars per clown. That is also why I was considering the damselfish if you have any suggestions please do tell me
Thanks!

I looked around and found this
there is also a double version not sure what that means. Do you think this would work?

 

grantm91 - Maybe you can help the OP with UK purchasing. Rock is really very necessary Jamie, it hosts the bulk of your nitrifying bacteria, so is important for a stable cycle. It is not important that you start with live rock, dry rock will eventually become live in your tank. I started my 20 gallon long with dry rock only, and I wouldn't call it dead anymore. Also, do you have a good source for marine salt? Avoid a coral specific salt for now, as you will not need to achieve higher levels of calcium/alkalinity/magnesium for a FOWLR tank.

Grant, do you know of anywhere that offers fair prices and shipping of dry rock in the UK? Any ideas on a fairly priced RO/DI unit?

The link above is to canister housing that you could use as part of a RO filter, but you would still need the inserts. You would also need to add a DI stage to produce RO/DI water, though RO may well be fine for a FOWLR tank because it should give you a very low TDS. A DI stage could always be added later before you get into coral.

 

Guys hope you're all doing well.
Culprit you seem to have experience with Saltwater tanks do you have a stress less way of acclimating the fish. Also do you know any good, relatively cheap beginner fish other than clowns? Sorry to bother you but there are so many thoughts I have.
Thanks in advance

Thanks for the reply!
Do you have a link to an example of an ideal RO machine?
Really appreciate it

 

Thanks for the reply!
Do you have a link to an example of an ideal RO machine?
Really appreciate it

Hey jamie feel free to ask around here. These people have helped me a lot till the point that I have my tank running. I'm a newbie also, 7 weeks with the 20 gallon tank.

I went with and AquaFX Barracuda 50gpd. It cost me around $160 via amazon with prime but, you could find it cheaper in the states since I'm from Puerto Rico and many places charge me high tax and shipping.

 

Thanks for the reply!
Do you have a link to an example of an ideal RO machine?
Really appreciate it

Not sure if it's ideal but it is relatively affordable and would work fine for a small tank like yours:

Guys hope you're all doing well.
Culprit you seem to have experience with Saltwater tanks do you have a stress less way of acclimating the fish. Also do you know any good, relatively cheap beginner fish other than clowns? Sorry to bother you but there are so many thoughts I have.
Thanks in advance

There is no such thing as a stressless way of acclimating fish. There are very stressful and less stressful options. A quarantine tank is usually considered to be the number 1 part of that equation. This will allow you to observe if the fish is carrying parasites that can spread to and kill other fish (ie Ich, Velvet, etc.) and that it is eating well, adjusting well. As for cheaper fish, do you have access to Gobies, Blennies, Basslets over there or Cardinalfish? They are generally considered among the cheaper fish and the sand sifting ones will aerate your sand bed for you and help a bit with the cleanup on the tank in the process. Probably the cheapest fish (and some of the hardiest) are Damsels and Dottybacks, but be aware that they DO NOT PLAY NICE WITH OTHERS and can be aggressive little buttheads. You do need to be aware that saltwater fish in general are on the expensive side and $30 per fish really isn't that expensive considering the insane prices that some fish in the hobby demand.

 

Not sure if it's ideal but it is relatively affordable and would work fine for a small tank like yours:

Thanks a lot for the recommendation seems like a great deal. There are three options do they state how much water they make? and which one should I go for?
Greatly appreciated

There is no such thing as a stressless way of acclimating fish. There are very stressful and less stressful options. A quarantine tank is usually considered to be the number 1 part of that equation. This will allow you to observe if the fish is carrying parasites that can spread to and kill other fish (ie Ich, Velvet, etc.) and that it is eating well, adjusting well. As for cheaper fish, do you have access to Gobies, Blennies, Basslets over there or Cardinalfish? They are generally considered among the cheaper fish and the sand sifting ones will aerate your sand bed for you and help a bit with the cleanup on the tank in the process. Probably the cheapest fish (and some of the hardiest) are Damsels and Dottybacks, but be aware that they DO NOT PLAY NICE WITH OTHERS and can be aggressive little buttheads. You do need to be aware that saltwater fish in general are on the expensive side and $30 per fish really isn't that expensive considering the insane prices that some fish in the hobby demand.

I don't think I have a QT tank what about drip acclimation? Ive heard a lot about that and seems quite good.
I think that we have most of the fish you were talking about however, I doubt we have basslets or dottyback. Are a cleanup crew necessary? I would preferably like 1 or 2 fish that can happily live in a 20 gallon with nothing else mainly because of my preference but also because I have school and I don't want to worry about aggression problems or if 1 fish isn't eating. If you have any recommendations of a single or pair of fish that will happily live in a 20 gallon then I would love to hear them.
Greatly Appreciated.

As for the tank I'm going with a 20 gallon cube mainly due to space but also because I prefer the style however, I doubt I can find a nice example of it here. My family are gong on a road trip to Germany in a few months and i' m considering waiting until then to buy a tank as ive heard they have a lot of tanks for a reasonable price

Don't worry, all of us had lots of questions at first!

Yes, a FOWLR tank does need powerheads, at least one. If you got a 20 long or a 29 gallon, a Jebao SW-4 will be plenty. For a 20 long a Jebao SW-2 will be good. I would highly suggest the higher quality powerhead as opposed to a cheaper korallia. Members on here started out using korallias and they broke quickly and then they switched to the Jebao and loved it. I started with the Jebao per their recommendation and love it.

An RO/DI unit is not necessary for a FOWLR. However, if you ever get into keeping corals you will need to get one or buy RO/DI water. A RO/DI unit purifies the water extremely pure so there is no contaminants. Then you add salt mix to it and mix it up. You don't have to have a tap with a suitable head. I don't, I just use my garden hose from outside. Your best bet if nobody sells RO/DI unit or saltwater is to buy salt mix (instant ocean sea salt will work fine) and mix it yourself with tap. It would best if you had the RO/DI water, but for just a FOWLR plain tap "should" work as long as it doesn't have lots of contaminents.

I would suggest starting with a 20 long. Its short height makes it easy to light should you ever want corals, lots of surface area perfect for gaseous exchange, and it has a big footprint.

You could do a pair of yellow tailed damsels in a 10 but... you wouldn't be able to keep any other fish. If you got the 20 or 29 heres fish that can go in: Firefish, gobies, clownfish, six line wrasse, blennies, royal gramma, cardinalfish. For instance, I have a 20 reef and I have a yellow watchman goby paired with a pistol shrimp right now, I'm going to be getting a clownfish pair soon, and then a six-line wrasse.

Regarding the powerhead for my tank will I need a return pump?

I know it is probably annoying but do you guys have any suggestions for the powerhead as the jebao sw2 doesn't come with a uk plug and doesn't seem to have great reviews on amazon
Thanks a lot can't believe my dream tank is finally coming together!

Guys please any help would make a difference I understand I might be bothering you guys but this is really Important for me. Its going to be my first ever saltwater setup. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

 

We do have lives outside of fishlore, and sometimes we can't be on every single day 24/7 . I'll tag some other reefers grantm91 is in the UK so he should be able to help you lots Nart stella1979 LJC6780

To answer your question, no. You only need a return pump if you have a sump or a all in one section in your tank which you won't have.

I will say that we all use and love the Jebao's here. Have you checked eBay? Your LFS? Mabye BRS or marine depot?

 

Look into the AquaticLife RO Buddie RODI it’s fairly cheap now around $60usd. I got it a couple years ago and it works great produces 0 TDS water and filter elements are easy to replace.

 

We do have lives outside of fishlore, and sometimes we can't be on every single day 24/7 . I'll tag some other reefers grantm91 is in the UK so he should be able to help you lots Nart stella1979 LJC6780

To answer your question, no. You only need a return pump if you have a sump or a all in one section in your tank which you won't have.

I will say that we all use and love the Jebao's here. Have you checked eBay? Your LFS? Mabye BRS or marine depot?

Thanks its just that I had so many thoughts and started to get really excited lol. I can buy an adapter that's not a problem as long as its a good product it doesn't matter. I feel relieved now. Is it always that stressful when you get a new tank or something goes wrong? sorry I'm really impatient.
Really appreciated

 

It is stressful when starting a new tank, and lots of questions is totally normal. Don't worry about being a bother either, just know that the salty crowd isn't as big around here, so it can take some time for one of us to answer. I would suggest that you look through the tank build threads of grantm91 Culprit and myself, it may answer a lot of questions for you.

You had me wondering how our UK buddy Grant plugs his Jebao in. I would say get it if you can. I'm another user of those myself, and a lot of us here are quite happy with them.

 

Thanks for the reply,
This is a wonderful forum compared to those ive been to and you guys are actually very active for a forum. As for the powerhead I will probably get the Jebao as its coming from real people and their personal experiences. I will be sure to look through the forums. I was wondering if a 20 gallon cube would be ok for the clown pair because I am quite short for space and also because I prefer how it looks.
Thanks a lot.

 

20 cube would be just fine for a clown pair. Don't worry, its really exciting and stressful when you first set your tank up! Like Stella said the salty side on this forum isn't as big as the freshwater, but everybodies amazing and helpful and encouraging!

 

Guys please any help would make a difference I understand I might be bothering you guys but this is really Important for me. Its going to be my first ever saltwater setup. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

The Hydor Koralia

Thanks a lot for the recommendation seems like a great deal. There are three options do they state how much water they make? and which one should I go for?
Greatly appreciated


I don't think I have a QT tank what about drip acclimation? Ive heard a lot about that and seems quite good.
I think that we have most of the fish you were talking about however, I doubt we have basslets or dottyback. Are a cleanup crew necessary? I would preferably like 1 or 2 fish that can happily live in a 20 gallon with nothing else mainly because of my preference but also because I have school and I don't want to worry about aggression problems or if 1 fish isn't eating. If you have any recommendations of a single or pair of fish that will happily live in a 20 gallon then I would love to hear them.
Greatly Appreciated.

As for the tank I'm going with a 20 gallon cube mainly due to space but also because I prefer the style however, I doubt I can find a nice example of it here. My family are gong on a road trip to Germany in a few months and i' m considering waiting until then to buy a tank as ive heard they have a lot of tanks for a reasonable price


Regarding the powerhead for my tank will I need a return pump?

Drip Acclimation can be useful for getting the fish used to the water perimeters but it doesn't do a thing for fish that come in with existing parasites. A Quarantine Tank of some form helps ensure a healthy all around fish. A QT tank doesn't need to be very elaborate or big (A 10 gallon will work for anything going in your tank). As for a cleanup crew it isn't necessary but it sure can make a difference in the health of your tank. hermit crabs not only eat uneaten food (and there is always uneaten food no matter how little you put in) they also eat detritus (aka fish poop) which left alone can create ammonia in the tank. Snails will help keep algae under control and off your glass (let's face it algae covered glass is ugly by any hobbyist standards). Do you have access to Hydor Koralia powerheads. I use a pair of them in my 90 gallon tank and they have always worked great.

I did have a thought on your fish though and people will think that I am nuts, but if you are willing to go with a single fish, I would actually recommend a 6 Line Wrasse. The 6 Line Wrasse doesn't play nice with other fish, but would work in a single fish config. It is brightly colored, very active, full of personality and would be somewhat unique (unlike the clownfish, which are almost like the Betta's of the Saltwater Hobby), since many avoid them due to their aggression issues with other fish. Here in the US they are pretty widely available and cheap, not sure about the UK.

This is what they look like:



As for the RODI unit. If you look they come in 50 gallon per day, 75 gallon per day and 100 gallon per day models. Any of them will work for a 20 gallon, but if you upgrade to a larger tank at some point, you might want the higher producing unit. Just keep in mind that there will be waste water (not toxic or anything, it just doesn't have all the stuff removed) with any RODI system (A good unit produces 3-4 gallons of waste water to produce 1 gallon of good RODI water). You also need to remember that the salt water needs to be prepped well in advance. Many prep it the night before a water change in order to let the salt completely dissolve and mix properly.

 

CUC is necessary even in a FOWLR. Not only do they keep your tank clean of algea, they also eat detritus and leftover food. Your tank will be a lot better.

Ya know Jesterrace, I'm gonna be getting a six line for my reef haha. I don't think your crazy. One of the best things I liked about it was the swimming style. Always swimming around the tank hunting and exploring!

 

I don't know how to thank you guys you literally answered all the questions I had. For CUC do you have any reccomendations as ive heard there are a few that you have to get back onto the right side lol. A six line wrasse looks beautiful so happy they can live in a 20 gallon. Do I need food for cleanup crew just in case if so what is it? also should I add them after a few weeks or before the wrasse?

 

You shouldn't need any food. Stock your CUC lightly at first and if you need more, just get some more. You should have just enough to make a balance.

My CUC in my 20 is 2 emerald crabs (going to take one back, I had a huge outbreak of bryopsis), 1 scarlet legged hermit, 1 blue legged hermit, 1 cerith, 1 astrea, 1 turbo, 1 banded trochus. For you, I would start with 1 banded trochus, 1 turbo, an emerald crab, and a scarlet legged hermit. The trochus and turbo are the best at mass algae reduction, emeralds are a close second.

 

If I get a 20 gallon cube that has a separate chamber a t the back does that mean I have to have a return pump if so where should I put it?
Thanks in advance really appreciated.

You shouldn't need any food. Stock your CUC lightly at first and if you need more, just get some more. You should have just enough to make a balance.

My CUC in my 20 is 2 emerald crabs (going to take one back, I had a huge outbreak of bryopsis), 1 scarlet legged hermit, 1 blue legged hermit, 1 cerith, 1 astrea, 1 turbo, 1 banded trochus. For you, I would start with 1 banded trochus, 1 turbo, an emerald crab, and a scarlet legged hermit. The trochus and turbo are the best at mass algae reduction, emeralds are a close second.

None of the ones that you mentioned fall over right? Its just that I don't want them to be in danger or stressed while I'm at school. I'm really excited about the emerald crab its just the way they scutter across the sound that makes me burst out laughing I don't even know why lol Also if I get a six line wrasse will he be aggressive towards them or will he mind his own business?

 

Yes with that you will have to have a return pump. However, if its a kit like a biocube it will come with a return pump.

Turbo snails can fall over and not be able to get up... IMO you could skip the turbo and just get 2 banded trochus instead. Nope a sixline wrasse won't be aggressive towards them. He'll mind his own buisness

 

R

Yes with that you will have to have a return pump. However, if its a kit like a biocube it will come with a return pump.

Turbo snails can fall over and not be able to get up... IMO you could skip the turbo and just get 2 banded trochus instead. Nope a sixline wrasse won't be aggressive towards them. He'll mind his own buisness

That's great to know thanks a lot can't wait till I get my tank. I'm sooooo excited ill make sure to send you guys some pictures. I couldn't have done any of this without you guys seriously. Will I have to put the return pump in one of the chambers?
Thanks a lot

Are there any other fish that I could put in a 20 gallon cube? (excluding the six line wrasse I'm not too sure about it).
Thanks a lot

 

It will likely come in the chamber its supposed to be in. Will you be ordering online or buying at a fish store? Either way make sure it comes with a return pump. You'll also need a heater.

Other fish options are: Clown Pair, Yasha or watchman goby and pistol shrimp pair, royal gramma, purple dottyback, firefish, hectors goby, clown goby, some blennies, and some others that I can't think of right now.

 

I think I will start off with a clown pair and maybe after a year or two get a bigger tank with a few more exotic fish can't wait! I will probably be buying my tank in store in Germany as they have loads of awesome marine tanks.
Thanks a lot I really appreciate the help.

 

Hey Jamie Lots of good help here, but just wanted to let you know I'm still watching your thread and will answer what I can when I can.

As far as a CUC, it's not really a just in case, it's a must. Right during the cycle, your tank will start to grow algae. Brown diatoms are usually first, and by the time the cycle is done, you'll be more than ready to get some algae eaters in your tank. I'd second the vote for banded trochus snails. I didn't try any of the others Culprit mentioned, so I can't speak for them. I added trochus snails as soon as the tank was cycled, and they really worked hard at cleaning up the diatoms. Just be prepared that what goes in, must come out. One indispensable piece of kit that's not usually mentioned? A turkey baster! It's a great tool for blowing all the snail poo around, as it will settle. Blasting your rocks regularly with the baster will swirl it around, allowing your filter to pick it up and then you can get it out.

The emerald crab seems to be a great option too, as they will eat other types of algae that snails and hermits don't love, bryopsis for example.

I'm very excited to see what you bring back from Germany! And hey, it doesn't have to be only pictures of your own tank... we love pics of far away places and their fish stores too!!!

 

Thanks a lot I honestly can't thank you guys enough! They have some awesome marine aquarium display tanks and some really good offers.I'm hoping to go to some other huge chain marine aquarium shops like last time I went. In the meantime I'm waiting until my break in February so that we can go there on a road trip. My dad is really keen on going as he is a huge fish lover and can't wait till I get this tank up and running. In case you were wondering the place I went to last time was called Kolle zoo in Nurnberg if you look online you will be able to see pictures of the stunning display tanks they have as well as their wide range of corals. Ill be sure to post some photos once we get there and might need help on stocking in about a month lol. In the meantime I am binge watching 20 gallon marine tank setups

Ok so guess what?
Nope I can't settle my mind on my fish stocking for the 20 gallon and whether I should get a long or a cube
Help... lol but seriously I would like your guys opinions and what you think would be suitable for a beginner like me. Ive got everything sorted out and written it on a word document so I don't forget. So far so good.
thanks

Stella I was looking at your post on your 20 gallon and I must say that tank looks amazing! Which is what changed my mind about my tank

So I did some research and this is what I think will work for me:
2 ocellaris clownfish
one yellow clown goby - I'm willing to take the clowns off if this is not possible as is a must for me
And also loads of corals not sure which but ive been looking around and they look stunnnning! Omg I'm soooo excited lol

 

some good corals are zoas, gsp, duncans, pulsing xenia, shrooms, and leathers. If you get good lighting there's so many others. That stocking sounds good! If you want, you could also put a sixline or a royal gramma or a firefish in there too

 

what like on top of what I already have?

I think ill start it off slow and maybe get a few more fish later on just to make sure ive got the hang of things and the tank is running well The main corals that I think would be good later on would be a kenya tree coral or a greem star polyp. I used to be so into marine but then I persuaded myself that it was way too hard. But now I decided to take the jump and make my dream come true.

Do trochus snails or any of the CUC you guys mentioned aerate the sandbed?
thanks

Just wondering I saw a few forums with 2 powerheads in their tank will I need 2 if I get an all in one tank?
thanks

 

Depends how much flow you're getting from the pumps in the aio tank, and where you can direct them. I have an aio tank (about 70 gallons) and I have replaced pumps to install a chiller, so the return pumps alone move over 20x the water volume, but I have two powerheads to prevent debris from settling on the lr structure.

Also, I haven't read your entire thread, but I have skimmed through it, I saw a question about tap water for a fowlr, but I would most definitely not suggest that, that's just asking for insane algae issues. I used to just use RO and even that was creating issues, I've since purchased a full RODI unit, because I just got sick of dealing with constant algae issues. I'm not sure if you've made a decision on your water source, but I just felt I should mention this to save you that hassle. RODI units can be cheap too, there is a portable one on amazon that was under $100, you can just attach it to your garden hose and use it that way. I use a spectrapure unit, I found just the RO part used and had to buy a new DI part, only costed about $200, not bad at all considering brand new with everything included it would've costed $600. Look for used things, good way to save some money.

 

YOu won't need anything to aerate the sandbed and eat detritus until after you get fish. I would get a fighting conch or nassarius snails. But the best stirrer is YOU ! I stir my sandbed once or twice a week when I'm blowing off my rocks.

 

Agree with Culprit how big is your tank going to be? I saw 20 gallons somewhere, am I correct? There are some fish that will stir up the sandbed for you, but if you're looking to keep a nano tank, you may not want to get a fish solely for that purpose, but maybe that's just me. In a smaller tank, it's easy enough to just stir it up yourself, also definitely blow off the rocks with the powerheads, mine are positioned directly at the rock, but I still like to blow them off every 1-2 weeks, keeps everything nice and clean!

Edit: I read through the thread, it sounds like you are off to a good start! I like the look of cubes, but I also don't like to give up length, but for me that's mostly because certain fish I like need length, I don't think it will be too much of an issue in a 20 though. I like tanks that have length, depth, and height, some people don't like height on a tank because it can be difficult/expensive to light, and it can be, none of my tanks have been insanely tall though, so I haven't had issues with lighting. A 20 gallon long has benefits like more length of course, and it is easier to light, but if you prefer the look of a cube, I think you will do well with that too!

 

HI thanks for the reply do you think my stocking is ok? I am not completely sure on what to get but I have got these in mind: 2 ocellaris clownfish, a yellow clown goby, 2 trochus snails, an emerald crab and a scarlet legged hermit the CUC was Culprit's idea and I think it will work quite well.
Thanks

 

Sounds perfect! Good light stocking and a good CUC.

 

thanks a lot glad to hear that

 

I think your stocking sounds perfect, I would just add the goby first as clowns can be territorial, and in a smaller tank that could become dangerous. Just add the goby, so when the clowns go in, he's already settled in and has his territory, usually the clowns won't be mean to the other inhabitants when they're the "new kids"

 

when should I add the clean up crew?
Thanks