Ball Python Info

The upgrade size you gave is shorter than a 20 long and only 6 inches wider, which is the only reason I mentioned a larger tank than that.

If he is at least 2 feet long, a 20 long is only a foot high, so he can get some good leverage against the lid if he wants to attempt an escape. At least the whole Harry Potter series, possibly more. I was not able to pry the lid open where mine got out, they are solid muscle. Make sure to balance the weight on the edge of the tank, screen lids are not made to support anything in the middle and can bow in or tear around the edges. Velco strips would work the same as clips and can be found at any hardware store or Walmart.

 

Well thank you for the info. I'll watch how active he is and if he's as active as yours I'll get him a 40 breeder instead.
I'll make sure to put a couple more books on there, as I have many. I'll mess with that tonight so I can figure out how much. I've been testing and fiddling with pretty much everything along the way.

 

I thought I'd share some pictures This is Loki

 

I thought I'd share some pictures This is Loki

Beautiful

 

He's gorgeous!

 

Very pretty. Definitely needs an upgrade though.

 

Very pretty. Definitely needs an upgrade though.

I was talking to the breeder about what size tank I should upgrade him to and he said he would keep LokI in the 20 long. I do still plan to upgrade him, but it'll depend on how active he is to what size. The breeder had him in a tank a bit smaller than this and he said that he would rarely explore.

 

I was talking to the breeder about what size tank I should upgrade him to and he said he would keep LokI in the 20 long. I do still plan to upgrade him, but it'll depend on how active he is to what size. The breeder had him in a tank a bit smaller than this and he said that he would rarely explore.

Probably because there's no room to explore. Not trying to be rude, but that's nowhere near big enough.

 

I HIGHLY suggest you get a THERMOSTAT (not thermometer ) and an inferred temperature gun. They are very useful so that you don't literally cook your ball python. An unrelated heat meat without a thermostat can reach 120 degrees F very quickly!
Also, I would join the reptile community at Ballpythons.net

 

I HIGHLY suggest you get a THERMOSTAT (not thermometer ) and an inferred temperature gun. They are very useful so that you don't literally cook your ball python. An unrelated heat meat without a thermostat can reach 120 degrees F very quickly!
Also, I would join the reptile community at Ballpythons.net

Can you explain to me about the thermostat? I looked into getting one and just got confused on what it does.
I almost cooked him myself the warm side is right at 90. So when I got him, he coiled into a ball on the warm side. I went and got a second hide. Since then he hasn't gone on the warm side. I wonder why! I just tested it and it was 110 under the hide!! So I took it out for the time being.
I did sign up for that site and I'm currently waiting for someone to approve it or something.

 

Can you explain to me about the thermostat? I looked into getting one and just got confused on what it does.
I almost cooked him myself the warm side is right at 90. So when I got him, he coiled into a ball on the warm side. I went and got a second hide. Since then he hasn't gone on the warm side. I wonder why! I just tested it and it was 110 under the hide!! So I took it out for the time being.
I did sign up for that site and I'm currently waiting for someone to approve it or something.

Great-you will find that site very helpful!

A thermostat keeps the temperature the same 24/7 to whatever temperature you set it at, so in your case, you would set it at around 90 degrees and it won't go above or below the set temperature at any time. It is the exact same idea as your house thermostat.

I have the Herpstat thermostat and would highly recommend it to you!!

 

My name on the other site is AnnieHeart.

 

HI I have 6 ball pythons and those clips don't hold my adults in at all. I use two bricks on both ends they r solid muscle and can push clips up. Also I waited about a week before handling them and I like aspine for their cages as it's soft on them . and three of mine like to climd and lay on limbs . I also use uv lights and heat lights on top of cage and I mist mine weekly to add humity to aid in shedding . I have had the oldest for 12 years and she is nearly 4 ft. I also never feed them in their tank . but that's strictly up to the person I heat I just don't want them to think when the lid comes off food comes in they know they must come out and get fed. I handle mine all daily and let them each out and let them explore my bed for awhile this gives them exercise I think lol. I also allow them to swim in the bathtub about every cpl weeks for 10-20 minutes and they like the warm water and freedom to move around. This moisture also aids in their sheding . mine have old display cases as cages for my 4 larger ones . I just got the two smaller ones about 3 years ago . they r very good snakes and I have never been bitten by any of the 6 .

 

I have two sets of clips on his tank and even I can't lift anywhere on his tank up enough to make even his head fit. LokI has shown no interest in climbing. I've laid things on top of my bed or holding my arm up, and he always wants down. He's defiantly a ground boy. (even trying to get down off my bed onto the ground) I seldomly have to mist his house, between the FL humidity and the eco earth is stays a steady 55%. LokI eats in his tank because that's what he's used to and I've seen zero signs of aggression. Though he does hiss, he hides his face and once grabbed he chills out. But even the breeder had this, LokI hissed when the breeder handed him to me. First time I've ever heard a ball python hiss. I handle him every few days and I lightly pet his side to see if he is okay to be held, only once has he seemed grumpy. I've never had him soak, and since his humidity is steady, I don't think he'll need the help shedding. Though I haven't had him shed just yet.
What size tanks do you have your males in? If you don't mind my asking?

 

I have two sets of clips on his tank and even I can't lift anywhere on his tank up enough to make even his head fit. LokI has shown no interest in climbing. I've laid things on top of my bed or holding my arm up, and he always wants down. He's defiantly a ground boy. (even trying to get down off my bed onto the ground) I seldomly have to mist his house, between the FL humidity and the eco earth is stays a steady 55%. LokI eats in his tank because that's what he's used to and I've seen zero signs of aggression. Though he does hiss, he hides his face and once grabbed he chills out. But even the breeder had this, LokI hissed when the breeder handed him to me. First time I've ever heard a ball python hiss. I handle him every few days and I lightly pet his side to see if he is okay to be held, only once has he seemed grumpy. I've never had him soak, and since his humidity is steady, I don't think he'll need the help shedding. Though I haven't had him shed just yet.
What size tanks do you have your males in? If you don't mind my asking?

I would honestly start feeding him in a bin. He will start associating his tank with food. So whenever you open the tank he’s going to think he’s being fed and maybe get a bit bitey with you. It happened with our rat snakes so now they’re all fed in separate bins. I think this would be more important to do with Ball Pythons as they’re known to be really picky eaters. It would be good to get a bin for him to eat in so he starts associating that with food and not your hands or his enclosure.

 

With balls it's better to feed them in their own enclosure because they are picky and spook easily, moving them ahead of a feeding can be enough to throw them off eating for a few days. They don't get weird about associating eating with hands/lids very often, not like some of the colubrids do. If his routine is working well and not causing trouble, I personally wouldn't change it. It can always be adjusted later if there are issues.

 

I completely agree with wodesorel . The breeder fed him in his rack and never had him bite. I've had LokI for over a month, and other than hissing when you open his tank, has shown no aggression. He loves to hang out around my neck and watch tv. I always wash my hands before opening it, just to be sure I don't smell like food. A practice I've made everyone do before coming near him. As I don't want something to happen and LokI getting stressed out. (Not worried about whoever he would've bit in the hypothetical scenario.)
LokI has been doing great. Eaten every time food is offered within seconds. He's used to my nocturnal routine, so he doesn't hide from my noises anymore. Actually quite the opposite! Sometimes he'll be out exploring and I'll open his lid, never leaving the room and my door is closed. Sometimes he'll stick his head out and wait for me to come over and he'll slither up my arm. If he doesn't want to hang out, he just ignores it. Many people have said that snakes don't like to be held, but he really acts like he does.

BReefer97 LokI is not a picky eater. The breeder had him eating live. He even commented that LokI will only SOMETIMES fast during breeding season. He gave me the little notecard and my ball baby hadn't missed a meal since November. And after a week I offered him a thawed and he took it without issue. And haven't had an issue with him eating.