Baby brine shrimp hatch rate

Noam
  • #1
I put in like 1-2 grams of ocean nutrition baby brine shrimp eggs into 1litre of water with 30g of marine salt and a pinch of baking soda to bring the pH to 8.0. I kept a light on the hatching bottle as the eggs were being tumbled and the water temp was around 25-29 degrees C all day long. After 24 hours I shut off the air and pointed the light on the side to get the baby brine shrimp to stay above as I flush out the unhatched eggs, however I always get a lot of bbs in the bottom with the unhatched eggs. Attached is a picture of what comes out when I open the valve for the first time for one second. Is this a lot of unhatched eggs or just the colour of the bb's? If these are indeed a lot of unhatched eggs is there anything I can do to improve my hatch rate? I fed this mixture of eggs and bbs to my aquarium with adult fish and they ate it all, even the eggs that landed on the bottom. Is that bad? If I end up throwing out the first gush of bbs and unhatched eggs I'd lose a big chunk of my bbs.

I also have fry which I was told not to feed the eggs as it can kill them so I end up having to suck up a bit of bbs near the light source with my pipette to ensure no eggs end up in their tank. Is this needed or would the eggs not hurt anything?
 

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Flyfisha
  • #2
Hi Noam
I have been hatching daily for 4 years. I don’t claim to be an expert but I have seen a few of the things you describe.

First of all my routine.
3 teaspoons of salt to just over a litre of water.
No need to mess with the PH using baking soda. I have never bothered.
I don’t use marine salt for hatching eggs that are going to be used in 48 hours. Only when growing out the brine shrimp to adulthood did I find it necessary. I use rock salt.
No light is necessary if you have another way of warming the water. I have a warm fishroom so don’t use a heater or light.

What I have noticed is different brands behave differently. Depending on the brand the outer eggs shell will float or sink or even do both.


I believe you could be getting a high hatch rate but are mistaking the outer shell of ever hatched egg as unopened eggs?

This waste can be annoying when it sinks and as you describe it comes out with the first pour.
I use a sieve made by ziss . The 0.13 sized model.
The first pour is emptied into a small plastic container using tank water to flush the sieve. After a couple of minutes the shells have settled and the swimming brine shrimp can be poured off.
The next feedings are done in the same way but depending on brand they are not as bad as that first draw down.
A small turkey baster/ pipette is good at this stage to draw off the best brine shrimp and tank water. Yes I still toss a little of the egg shells out each day.

I to have read of these shells and unhatched as being unsuitable to feed to tiny fry. Other members on this site have said it’s not as much of an issue as it’s made out to be. Nevertheless I am careful not to let to much go into “ special “ fry tanks. The day old endlers that are not special are used as Guinea pigs. I have not killed them yet using a little of the less desirable mixture.
My wife does this job on days I am away fishing etc. I am convenient she is not as careful about separating the egg shells as I am but she has not killed fry (yet)

In Australia I can’t buy the same brand of eggs each time I need them. Some brands have almost 100% floating egg shells. That’s easy to work with.

To answer your question.
That is not baby brine it’s the wrong colour.
I have not lost adult endlers with the dregs that contain a little of those brown shells. I don’t feed apistogramma fry or adults that brown rubbish.

A link to the 0.13 sized sieve
Aquarium Brine Shrimp Sieve Feeder (0.13 mm) Ziss Aqua
They come in 3 sizes but the 0.13 is best for brine shrimp.
 

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Noam
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Hi Noam
I have been hatching daily for 4 years. I don’t claim to be an expert but I have seen a few of the things you describe.

First of all my routine.
3 teaspoons of salt to just over a litre of water.
No need to mess with the PH using baking soda. I have never bothered.
I don’t use marine salt for hatching eggs that are going to be used in 48 hours. Only when growing out the brine shrimp to adulthood did I find it necessary. I use rock salt.
No light is necessary if you have another way of warming the water. I have a warm fishroom so don’t use a heater or light.

What I have noticed is different brands behave differently. Depending on the brand the outer eggs shell will float or sink or even do both.


I believe you could be getting a high hatch rate but are mistaking the outer shell of ever hatched egg as unopened eggs?

This waste can be annoying when it sinks and as you describe it comes out with the first pour.
I use a sieve made by ziss . The 0.13 sized model.
The first pour is emptied into a small plastic container using tank water to flush the sieve. After a couple of minutes the shells have settled and the swimming brine shrimp can be poured off.
The next feedings are done in the same way but depending on brand they are not as bad as that first draw down.
A small turkey baster/ pipette is good at this stage to draw off the best brine shrimp and tank water. Yes I still toss a little of the egg shells out each day.

I to have read of these shells and unhatched as being unsuitable to feed to tiny fry. Other members on this site have said it’s not as much of an issue as it’s made out to be. Nevertheless I am careful not to let to much go into “ special “ fry tanks. The day old endlers that are not special are used as Guinea pigs. I have not killed them yet using a little of the less desirable mixture.
My wife does this job on days I am away fishing etc. I am convenient she is not as careful about separating the egg shells as I am but she has not killed fry (yet)

In Australia I can’t buy the same brand of eggs each time I need them. Some brands have almost 100% floating egg shells. That’s easy to work with.

To answer your question.
That is not baby brine it’s the wrong colour.
I have not lost adult endlers with the dregs that contain a little of those brown shells. I don’t feed apistogramma fry or adults that brown rubbish.

A link to the 0.13 sized sieve
Aquarium Brine Shrimp Sieve Feeder (0.13 mm) Ziss Aqua
They come in 3 sizes but the 0.13 is best for brine shrimp.
So this sieve you have is big enough to let the shrimp through and small enough to keep the egg shells? I'm also in Australia btw. How do you store your cysts as well? I heard you need to freeze them. I put a bit in a zip lock bag in my fridge and the rest in the freezer. Is the that needed or can they all just stay in my fridge?
 
TClare
  • #4
I don't pour or sieve mine, I first take the airstone out then use the light on my phone to attract them to a certain area (leave it there for a couple of minutes) then I use a piece of airline tube to siphon the live nauplii out from the light spot onto a reusable paper towel that I place over a cup, this is then dipped straight into the tank.

While quite a lot have hatched after 24 hours I get far more after 36 hours. I agree it is not necessary to change the pH.
So this sieve you have is big enough to let the shrimp through and small enough to keep the egg shells? I'm also in Australia btw. How do you store your cysts as well? I heard you need to freeze them. I put a bit in a zip lock bag in my fridge and the rest in the freezer. Is the that needed or can they all just stay in my fridge?
To store mine I keep them in a ziplock bag inside a plastic container in a cool dark cupboard, not in the fridge.
 
Flyfisha
  • #5
Oh yes I store the one litre cans in the refrigerator. I have never used the freezer.
No unfortunately the sieve only separates all the chunks of everything from salt water.
The other sizes might be for different live cultures.
One size is very fine and blocks up easy and the other is a little to big .

Coffee filter pads can be used like the paper towel. But if you are feeding 4 times a day it’s good to be as fast as possible?

After a few months I find boiling water cleans the sieve . It blocks up with , I don’t know dead shrimp guts I guess.

With 3 bottles on the go continuously I have.
One that is new eggs, one that is a day older and being feed. So it’s 48 hours old at the end of the feeding.
And one that is used to dispense= the expensive ziss hatchery.
A clothes peg is the youngest batch.

image.jpg
Sorry I have not explained that very well. I have been awake for two days trout fishing in the snowy mountains.
 
TClare
  • #6
My setup is simpler with only two bottles, but I am only feeding 2-3 tanks at a time.
 

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Noam
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
Oh yes I store the one litre cans in the refrigerator. I have never used the freezer.
No unfortunately the sieve only separates all the chunks of everything from salt water.
The other sizes might be for different live cultures.
One size is very fine and blocks up easy and the other is a little to big .

Coffee filter pads can be used like the paper towel. But if you are feeding 4 times a day it’s good to be as fast as possible?

After a few months I find boiling water cleans the sieve . It blocks up with , I don’t know dead shrimp guts I guess.

With 3 bottles on the go continuously I have.
One that is new eggs, one that is a day older and being feed. So it’s 48 hours old at the end of the feeding.
And one that is used to dispense= the expensive ziss hatchery.
A clothes peg is the youngest batch.
View attachment 869254
Sorry I have not explained that very well. I have been awake for two days trout fishing in the snowy mountains.
I just ordered this off of American Amazon. Was cheaper even with the delivery cost xd
I hope this solves all my problems.
 
SparkyJones
  • #8
I just ordered this off of American Amazon. Was cheaper even with the delivery cost xd
I hope this solves all my problems.
I hear good things about that hobby hatchery device if you follow the instructions on it to a "T".
I find the whole hatching brine shrimp to be too involved for me to want to do it anymore, just a personal opinion.
 
MacZ
  • #9
I just ordered this off of American Amazon. Was cheaper even with the delivery cost xd
I hope this solves all my problems.
The bowl is quite easy to use BUT it doesn't yield much.

I have a funnel hatchery with a tap in the bottom and an airline connection. 0.5 liters of water, a heaped spoon of salt, 3 small spoons of eggs and I let it bubble along for 24 hours. Before feeding I let it sit still for 15 minutes so unhatched eggs collect in the bottom (I separate them to re-add them to the funnel, often they still hatch.), then a layer of hatched artemia and the unhatched eggs collect at the surface.
 
Noam
  • Thread Starter
  • #10
The bowl is quite easy to use BUT it doesn't yield much.

I have a funnel hatchery with a tap in the bottom and an airline connection. 0.5 liters of water, a heaped spoon of salt, 3 small spoons of eggs and I let it bubble along for 24 hours. Before feeding I let it sit still for 15 minutes so unhatched eggs collect in the bottom (I separate them to re-add them to the funnel, often they still hatch.), then a layer of hatched artemia and the unhatched eggs collect at the surface.
Why would it not yield as much? Due to some bbs being unresponsive to light?
 

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MacZ
  • #11
Why would it not yield as much? Due to some bbs being unresponsive to light?
And the overall size plus due to lack of aeration you can't add as much eggs as in a funnel/bottle hatchery. And it's very slow in comparison. In a funnel hatchery you only have to turn off the air and everything layers accordingly, so you can easily separate it all with a tap in the bottom. In the bowl you'll have to wait extra time for the shrimp to reach the center to get separated.
 
Noam
  • Thread Starter
  • #12
And the overall size plus due to lack of aeration you can't add as much eggs as in a funnel/bottle hatchery. And it's very slow in comparison. In a funnel hatchery you only have to turn off the air and everything layers accordingly, so you can easily separate it all with a tap in the bottom. In the bowl you'll have to wait extra time for the shrimp to reach the center to get separated.
I was actually planning on hatching them in my bottle and then pouring it into the bowl. Idm waiting.
 
MacZ
  • #13
I was actually planning on hatching them in my bottle and then pouring it into the bowl. Idm waiting.
So you're not depending on having them at hand for growing out fry and such? Only as an infrequent addition to your fishes menu? Then the bowl is enough. If you need more and more regularly it's not.
 
brhau
  • #14
I use the bowl, and I agree the total production is only OK for a few tanks, not a fish room or large tanks. The speed depends on scale and temperature. If you can heat the bowl to 26 or 27C, they can start hatching at around 18 hours. At lower temps it can take longer. In both cases, a large volume setup yields more sooner, because a small fraction of the cysts hatches earlier.
 

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Noam
  • Thread Starter
  • #15
So you're not depending on having them at hand for growing out fry and such? Only as an infrequent addition to your fishes menu? Then the bowl is enough. If you need more and more regularly it's not.
I only have 2 aquariums and a fry tank with white cloud mountain minnows. I also froze some of my BBS so I can always feed it.
 
Flyfisha
  • #16
After 48 hours you can dump any egg cases and any potential unhatched eggs into a separate container along with daily waste salt water. I have used small spare fish tanks for this. After a week of this carry on I would have thought to see a few more brine escapees from the waste water and any unhatched eggs would have hatched . My results showed me I am not getting many eggs to hatch after 48 hours in the warm temperatures I have.

Anyway all i am suggesting is you have waste salt water daily use it to see what grows out and hatches .
 
MacZ
  • #17
I only have 2 aquariums and a fry tank with white cloud mountain minnows. I also froze some of my BBS so I can always feed it.
Allright, the dish is sufficient then.
 

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