Aquatop Hob Filter

ZeeZ

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I'm setting up a new 20 Long tank that's KINDA iwagumi-inspired and I've always liked the look of those clear filters I see all the time on nano tanks. Chewy has a HOB that's kinda similar to that look and I've heard AquaTop is a decent brand. Only thing is, this one that I'm looking at has a UV sterilizer and I'm not really wanting that. Does anyone have any experience with that in a freshwater setting?

This is the filter -

Aquatop Hang-On Back Aquarium UV Sterilizer Power Filter
 

Francine

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I'm setting up a new 20 Long tank that's KINDA iwagumi-inspired and I've always liked the look of those clear filters I see all the time on nano tanks. Chewy has a HOB that's kinda similar to that look and I've heard AquaTop is a decent brand. Only thing is, this one that I'm looking at has a UV sterilizer and I'm not really wanting that. Does anyone have any experience with that in a freshwater setting?

This is the filter -

Aquatop Hang-On Back Aquarium UV Sterilizer Power Filter
You shouldn’t need UV sterilizer on a freshwater tank... my suggestions would be to look into the C series by Fluval or the AquaClear filters... they are pretty much top notch for HOB... I personally like the Fluval C series ones because you can cramp a lot of extra media in them (bio or whatever you want) and both filters mentioned above are basically completely customizable for what you want for all filtration (mechanical, bio and chemical) along with the fact that with the C series ones you can very easily change out separate stages of filtration without destroying your whole colony of bacteria... and to rinse the foam pads you don’t have to tear everything apart just **** it off and pull out the pad and rinse in tap water... and you can take out the carbon and replace with more bio media and something like purigen or if you prefer to keep the carbon you can still have both... like I said very customizable
 

tocandesu

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You shouldn’t need sub sterilizer on a freshwater tank... my suggestions would be to look into the C series by Fluval or the AquaClear filters... they are pretty much top notch for HOB... I personally like the Fluval C series ones because you can cramp a lot of extra media in them (bio or whatever you want) and both filters mentioned above are basically completely customizable for what you want for all filtration (mechanical, bio and chemical) along with the fact that with the C series ones you can very easily change out separate stages of filtration without destroying your whole colony of bacteria... and to rinse the foam pads you don’t have to tear everything apart just it off and pull out the pad and rinse in tap water... and you can take out the carbon and replace with more bio media and something like purigen or if you prefer to keep the carbon you can still have both... like I said very customizable
I agree. Another alternative would be the Seachem Tidal series of filters
 
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ZeeZ

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Unfortunately, neither of these suggestions are completely clear. They've all got the smoked gray lens look, which is not what I want.

I found out that the AquaTop UV has an on/off switch so it can be run without the uv light. It's also rated for 40 gallons so it should be sufficient for a little 20 Long.
 

Francine

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1- May I ask why that matters? And if you are referring to the box itself my C series is completely see through... slightly tinted but I can see anything you would expect to be seeing?
2- I would be maybe less concerned about the color of the box and more of how the filter actually works and preforms... not the color...
I’m just confused as to why you want the completely clear one? Is it to blend in or something?
 

Francine

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I also agree with @BluMan1914 but its only a 20 long a decent canister filter may not be worth it cost wise.... I run a C3 on my 26 bow front and it works great and I have a C3 and C4 on my 50 gallon... all the rest of my tanks all have 406 canisters (Fluval should be giving me some kind of promotion by now lol)
But again I would be more concerned about performance than color
 
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ZeeZ

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Because I want it to look almost invisible with the side effect of easily seeing when the sponge needs to be squeezed out. I don't want people to notice the filter.

Exactly, it's only a 20 Long. Not worth the hassle of a canister. I've also been toying with the idea of burying a large enough cup behind the raised substrate and river rocks and putting a sponge filter inside it for a completely hidden or at least a minimalist look. I'm not sure how well that would work, however.
 

BluMan1914

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I van understand what you two mean.
I just remember when I was younger and having my first 20L, and having a Magnum 350 on it. I used carbon and Chemi-Pure, and it was the cleanest, and healthiest tank Ive ever had. The water was so clear, it had a bluish-white tint to it. I didnt have to clean my filter but once every 4 months or so.
So this is why I will never get another job.
 

Francine

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Because I want it to look almost invisible with the side effect of easily seeing when the sponge needs to be squeezed out. I don't want people to notice the filter.

Exactly, it's only a 20 Long. Not worth the hassle of a canister. I've also been toying with the idea of burying a large enough cup behind the raised substrate and river rocks and putting a sponge filter inside it for a completely hidden or at least a minimalist look. I'm not sure how well that would work, however.
I would guess not well... just my opinion... but I’m still not sure why it needs to be clear? They have indicators when the pads get dirty and by the time you fill up most of them with all your biomedia and trays etc you are still going to see any HOB filter... that’s why they are HOB... because you have to hang them on the frame of the aquarium.... I have everything from a 10 gallon all the way up to a few 64g’s (although on my big ones I use canisters... but I have a 60 long and my filters are hardly noticeable... or you could put taller plants around where the box part is but honestly you can see them as much as I think you are worried about it... plus most likely since you are keeping a community tank you will need some kind of heater and I don’t know if you will want to add bubble wands or airstones but as much as you try to hide everything you still see stuff.... have you ever thought of getting a really good filter and then just putting a background on? They make this like glue/oil stuff that I said had to be a gimmic but it claimed to make the backgrounds appear nearly 3D... so my lfs just gave me the tube with my background and it actually works... you can see the difference when doing water changes... that would completely cover any type of HOB except the very small portion that hangs on... which is like an inch or 2 max.... just a thought because it also covers the ugly wires behind from your heaters etc
 
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ZeeZ

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I'm not using a background or heaters. It's not necessary for the shrimp tank that this is going to be. I think I'll go with the sponge filter idea and only have one airline tube going into the tank and just do a bit more maintenance on it.

Thanks for your input!
 

Francine

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No problem just make sure to check the temps of whatever kind of shrimp you plan on keeping and where you live.. some types need like 75-78 degree water to thrive... good lick I hope everything goes well for you
 
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