Api Testing Kit Problem?

Pete_art
  • #1
I recently purchased a new API testing kit. I'm currently in the process of cycling a new tank and found myself doing a lot of water changes due Ammonia levels being a little higher than 0. One day I decided to test my paramaters the day after a 100% water change. The results showed my ammonia levels where around 0.50 ppm and so it prompted me to test my tap water. My tap water results were also 0.50ppm. I continued to test my tap water from different sinks around my house to see if I got similar readings.

Long story short, while conducting all these test, I realized bottle ammonia bottle #2 releases larger droplets than bottle ammonia bottle #1. The drops released on #2 are significantly larger than #1 so instead of adding 8 drops as instructed I added 7 instead. My results for ammonia after this tweak ended up being 0.00-0.25ppm.

Anybody else experience this before?
 
nikm128
  • #2
Changing the proper measurements to get better results? They may have different size drops, but the amount of calculations required to figure out what will give accurate results is so high. I doubt that was an accident. Besides, just one test isn't enough to scientifically figure that out either. Maybe do a test with 9 from #1 and 8 from #2. There are just too many variables to draw a conclusion from one test. Plus if you're cycling a tank there's absolutely no reason there shouldn't be any ammonia unless the cycle is complete
 
WTFish?
  • #3
That is the reason for using two different chemical compounds into one tube...they are not meant to be the same and of course may have a different consistency. That’s normal, you cannot get an accurate result by not following the written directions.
 
bitseriously
  • #4
I would have to assume that as the manufacturer of a (generally) fine product, API has a pretty good handle on the physical properties of the liquids in each bottle. Meaning, if the drops come out in different sizes, they probably know it.
That said, I have also been running into that phantom 0.5 ppm ammonia reading on everything that I test, including store-bought spring water from sources well beyond my local watershed or region.
For me at least, 0.5 is the new 0, and I’ll only be worried if I see anything higher than that.
 
nikm128
  • #5
I would have to assume that as the manufacturer of a (generally) fine product, API has a pretty good handle on the physical properties of the liquids in each bottle. Meaning, if the drops come out in different sizes, they probably know it.
That said, I have also been running into that phantom 0.5 ppm ammonia reading on everything that I test, including store-bought spring water from sources well beyond my local watershed or region.
For me at least, 0.5 is the new 0, and I’ll only be worried if I see anything higher than that.
In this case .5 is actually pretty common as it's almost impossible to have absolutely 0 ammonia at any given time when fish are adding it 24/7
 
Momgoose56
  • #6
If your tank is cycling you need ammonia in the water. You should be testing and adding ammonia to get it to 4ppm once a day until nitrites show up then cut dosing to 2ppm.

I agree with the advice above re: drop size, the droppers and solution are made according to the quantity and concentration needed for accurate testing of water. Lots of municipal water sources contain low levels of ammonia-they won't be a problem in your tank once it's cycled. Just follow the API directions and you will obtain accurate results. Keep in touch!
 
NickAu
  • #7
I would have to assume that as the manufacturer of a (generally) fine product, API has a pretty good handle on the physical properties of the liquids in each bottle. Meaning, if the drops come out in different sizes, they probably know it.
I agree, In fact I think they did it for a reason.
 
86 ssinit
  • #8
I would have to assume that as the manufacturer of a (generally) fine product, API has a pretty good handle on the physical properties of the liquids in each bottle. Meaning, if the drops come out in different sizes, they probably know it.
That said, I have also been running into that phantom 0.5 ppm ammonia reading on everything that I test, including store-bought spring water from sources well beyond my local watershed or region.
For me at least, 0.5 is the new 0, and I’ll only be worried if I see anything higher than that.

In this case .5 is actually pretty common as it's almost impossible to have absolutely 0 ammonia at any given time when fish are adding it 24/7

My tanks are allways 0. If they were .50 I would do a 50%wc. Than retest the next day. Saying and agreeing that .50 is now except able really isn’t a fine test kit. This and there color sheet pretty much stinks. It’s a shame there is no competion. I don’t even bother checking nitrates the color chart is a joke.
 
nikm128
  • #9
My tanks are allways 0. If they were .50 I would do a 50%wc. Than retest the next day. Saying and agreeing that .50 is now except able really isn’t a fine test kit. This and there color sheet pretty much stinks. It’s a shame there is no competion. I don’t even bother checking nitrates the color chart is a joke.
I'm mostly referring to the people who see a tiny green tint and freak out. The odds of having absolutely 0ppm are slim. Definitely didn't mean to say .5 is acceptable though
 
SaltyPhone
  • #10
I personally found the tetra brand strips to work well. When I started out on this adventure not long ago I too had issues with the apI master kit and used the two in conjunction to compare results. Either way I knew I’m not a chemist and shouldn’t dismiss the directions.
 
Accents
  • #11
It can definitely be hard to tell the results and I've freaked out over what I thought was a crashed cycle a number of times, but after letting it sit for a few minutes and get a really good shake in, the results are more accurate.
 
nikm128
  • #12
The older the kit gets, you might have to slam the bottom of the bottle against a counter or something to make sure nothing is settled on the bottom
 

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