Anyone have success using fert tabs in a gravel substrate?

I have a 20 gallon that currently just has floating plants and Javar fern. Basically plants that just get their nutrients from the water column. However, I'd like to start venturing out a little and get some plants such as Amazon Swords which get their nutrients from the substrate. The issue is the tank just has a gravel substrate. Has anyone had success using root tabs with gravel? If so, what root tabs do you recommend?

Most of my tanks have dirt/soil substrates or Flourite bottoms. So this would be new territory for me.The tank won't have a CO2 setup and will be utilizing an AquaSky 2.0.

Thanks in advance.

 

Swords / crypts / other larger "root feeding" plants are nutrient hogs that will pull nutrients from wherever they can, be it in the water or in the root zone.

The vast majority of nutrient uptake is done when the plan uptakes water, bringing in with it whatever nutrients are dissolved in the water, which is why having the water column dosed well is so important, with root tabs being not needed, or supplemental only.

Root tabs are either 1) made of mostly inert filler material (Flourish / API tabs etc.) or they are made of extremely soluble fertilizers not recommended for aquatic use (Osmocote+ based root tabs).

The reason why I think people claim root feeder vs water column feeder is because they place a root tab or two underneath a sword, notice a jump in growth, and then assume that's how they uptake nutrients, when in reality they are nutrient hogs utilizing a short, unstained bump in nutrient access.

I've seen many tanks grow swords / crpyts / stem plants without tabs at all, water column fertilizing only, in inert substrates (Eco-Complete, Flourite, Sand, Gravel) just as well as in inert substrate with tabs in it.

Most plants do seem to like nutrient rich substrates, but that is not the same as an inert substrate with root tabs. Dirt / calcined montmorillonite clay / active aquasoil substrates are nutrient rich, a bunch of root tabs in some gravel is not.

You will be able to grow plants just fine in plain gravel, you'll just have to fertilize for them.

 

Swords / crypts / other larger "root feeding" plants are nutrient hogs that will pull nutrients from wherever they can, be it in the water or in the root zone.

The vast majority of nutrient uptake is done when the plan uptakes water, bringing in with it whatever nutrients are dissolved in the water, which is why having the water column dosed well is so important, with root tabs being not needed, or supplemental only.

Root tabs are either 1) made of mostly inert filler material (Flourish / API tabs etc.) or they are made of extremely soluble fertilizers not recommended for aquatic use (Osmocote+ based root tabs).

The reason why I think people claim root feeder vs water column feeder is because they place a root tab or two underneath a sword, notice a jump in growth, and then assume that's how they uptake nutrients, when in reality they are nutrient hogs utilizing a short, unstained bump in nutrient access.

I've seen many tanks grow swords / crpyts / stem plants without tabs at all, water column fertilizing only, in inert substrates (Eco-Complete, Flourite, Sand, Gravel) just as well as in inert substrate with tabs in it.

Most plants do seem to like nutrient rich substrates, but that is not the same as an inert substrate with root tabs. Dirt / calcined montmorillonite clay / active aquasoil substrates are nutrient rich, a bunch of root tabs in some gravel is not.

You will be able to grow plants just fine in plain gravel, you'll just have to fertilize for them.

Thank you! I heard mixed things about root tabs and your post cleared things up for me. I have been fish keeping for a couple years now and haven't had the courage to attempt to grow plants in gravel. I will research some fertilizers that I can dose in the water column. I just want a couple swords to accommodate the Java ferns. And perhaps some Anubias plants.

 

You should be able to grow swords with just water column dosing as Chanyi stated. Plants are more adaptable than we give them credit. Just as people can keep fish outside the recommended parameters, same goes with plants. But be cognizant of the difference between "capability/adaptability" and "preference" though.

People distinguish between root/water column feeders because it has been scientifically demonstrated that some plants uptake most (and most efficient at taking) nutrients from the roots as opposed to the stem/leaf. In addition, certain plants uptake certain elements from different places. ie some prefer uptake of P through the roots and leaf uptake of K. This varies greatly between species. Admittedly most studies are not done specifically in regards to the common freshwater aquarium plant; but I wouldn't dismiss root feeder vs water column feeder outright in certain terms due to the results of all those studies. Gratefully, to the average aquarist, we don't have to make such distinction as most common plants can adapt to either. You just might not get the most ideal growth if you use water column dosing as opposed to root tabs.

If you go the root tab route, I would suggest Thrive products. (even for water column dosing)

 

Swords / crypts / other larger "root feeding" plants are nutrient hogs that will pull nutrients from wherever they can, be it in the water or in the root zone.

The vast majority of nutrient uptake is done when the plan uptakes water, bringing in with it whatever nutrients are dissolved in the water, which is why having the water column dosed well is so important, with root tabs being not needed, or supplemental only.

Root tabs are either 1) made of mostly inert filler material (Flourish / API tabs etc.) or they are made of extremely soluble fertilizers not recommended for aquatic use (Osmocote+ based root tabs).

The reason why I think people claim root feeder vs water column feeder is because they place a root tab or two underneath a sword, notice a jump in growth, and then assume that's how they uptake nutrients, when in reality they are nutrient hogs utilizing a short, unstained bump in nutrient access.

I've seen many tanks grow swords / crpyts / stem plants without tabs at all, water column fertilizing only, in inert substrates (Eco-Complete, Flourite, Sand, Gravel) just as well as in inert substrate with tabs in it.

Most plants do seem to like nutrient rich substrates, but that is not the same as an inert substrate with root tabs. Dirt / calcined montmorillonite clay / active aquasoil substrates are nutrient rich, a bunch of root tabs in some gravel is not.

You will be able to grow plants just fine in plain gravel, you'll just have to fertilize for them.

Do you have this written down somewhere to copy and paste? It’s so long and I’ve seen you write it all out so many times

 

Do you have this written down somewhere to copy and paste? It’s so long and I’ve seen you write it all out so many times

Nope, I write it out every time, some stuff I have saved, mostly algae care related because it's all brick and mortar things / recommendations.

 

Nope, I write it out every time, some stuff I have saved, mostly algae care related because it's all brick and mortar things / recommendations.

I've seen your other informative posts and learned a lot from them, especially on algae topics. But haven't seen you directly address fert tabs in gravel, unless I missed it lol. I try to avoid making posts that have been addressed in the recent past. Super informative content!

You should be able to grow swords with just water column dosing as Chanyi stated. Plants are more adaptable than we give them credit. Just as people can keep fish outside the recommended parameters, same goes with plants. But be cognizant of the difference between "capability/adaptability" and "preference" though.

People distinguish between root/water column feeders because it has been scientifically demonstrated that some plants uptake most (and most efficient at taking) nutrients from the roots as opposed to the stem/leaf. In addition, certain plants uptake certain elements from different places. ie some prefer uptake of P through the roots and leaf uptake of K. This varies greatly between species. Admittedly most studies are not done specifically in regards to the common freshwater aquarium plant; but I wouldn't dismiss root feeder vs water column feeder outright in certain terms due to the results of all those studies. Gratefully, to the average aquarist, we don't have to make such distinction as most common plants can adapt to either. You just might not get the most ideal growth if you use water column dosing as opposed to root tabs.

If you go the root tab route, I would suggest Thrive products. (even for water column dosing)

I have heard a lot of good things about the Thrive products! I haven't used them yet but have see reputable members on here swear by them. Thank you for the reply. You make a good point, especially about the distinction between what is "sufficient" and what is "ideal" for a plant or fish.

 

When I first decided to get into live plants I bought Flourish and Flourish Excel. I quickly found out those products weren't really going to help unless I added several other products from the line. I followed recommendations from several members here and bought Thrive all-in-one and Thrive root capsules. My plants started thanking me for giving them what they need. Be prepared for seeing higher nitrates than you are used too. Thrive C doesn't raise them as much as regular Thrive but will still raise them some.

When using Thrive 50% weekly water changes are recommended. With Thrive C 30% weekly is recommended. Check out This post. It is my little 5.5 gallon tank. The before Thrive and after Thrive to me is amazing and told me I was giving the plants what they need.

 

When using Thrive 50% weekly water changes are recommended. With Thrive C 30% weekly is recommended.

Oof, this seems like a large percentage to me. Why do you recommend this? I am not disagreeing, just wondering.