Angelfish gender

Shadowfax777

Member
Hi, I have two angelfish and I need some help with deciding the gender. I have read that the female have a more rounded shape, and the male has kind of a dent in the forehead.

I think the "white one" is female?! but what about the other one?

Hope someone can help
 
Best Answer - View jake37's answer

jake37

Member
They are just about impossible to sex until they display breeding tubes. However if i were to take a 'wild' guess i would lean towards the gold being female and the other 50:50 male or female. Then again the first one might just be over-fed.
 

MoshJosh

Member
they both look like males to me, but I'm mostly going off forehead shape. . . There are a few people who are well versed in angles who could probably help more than I could.
 
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Shadowfax777

Member
jake37 said:
They are just about impossible to sex until they display breeding tubes. However if i were to take a 'wild' guess i would lean towards the gold being female and the other 50:50 male or female. Then again the first one might just be over-fed.
When do they display breeding tubes? Had mine for about 2 years now, small when I got them, tho not the smallest.

I tried one year ago to have them in the same tank, but it look like they were fighting "kissing" with their mouth, so I thought that they maybe was the same sex.
 

AggressiveAquatics

Member
Shadowfax777 said:
When do they display breeding tubes? Had mine for about 2 years now, small when I got them, tho not the smallest.

I tried one year ago to have them in the same tank, but it look like they were fighting "kissing" with their mouth, so I thought that they maybe was the same sex.
That’s a lip lock. I’m not experienced in angel breeding behavior but that does usually indicate two males
 

jake37

Member
My male and female (both confirmed) lip lock when the female was testing the male to see if he was a suitable breeding partner. If she won she destroyed the male and if he won they bred.

AggressiveAquatics said:
That’s a lip lock. I’m not experienced in angel breeding behavior but that does usually indicate two males
They won't display breeding tubes cept if breeding. Sometimes the female will lay eggs without a male or with another female but i've never seen the male display his tube unless there was a female.

Shadowfax777 said:
When do they display breeding tubes? Had mine for about 2 years now, small when I got them, tho not the smallest.

I tried one year ago to have them in the same tank, but it look like they were fighting "kissing" with their mouth, so I thought that they maybe was the same sex.
 

chromedome52

Member
The lighter colored angel is an excellent Manacapuru Red, a relatively recent discovery in the wild, and introduced to the hobby a few years ago by TUIC, I think. I would say it is a female, there are a couple of characteristics that suggest this besides the fat tummy.

The Marble is a bit harder to call as to sex. However, I would lean toward male.

If they were liplocking, that is prespawning activity as well as territorial display. It tests the potential mate for endurance, I think.
 
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Shadowfax777

Member
chromedome52 said:
The lighter colored angel is an excellent Manacapuru Red, a relatively recent discovery in the wild, and introduced to the hobby a few years ago by TUIC, I think. I would say it is a female, there are a couple of characteristics that suggest this besides the fat tummy.

The Marble is a bit harder to call as to sex. However, I would lean toward male.

If they were liplocking, that is prespawning activity as well as territorial display. It tests the potential mate for endurance, I think.
The fat tummy may be because of food, he/she is very greedy with the food, and a fast eater.

Do you think I should put them in the same tank? I would love some babies!
 

jake37

Member
I would - might produce interesting off springs. However - keep an eye on them. They might fight a little and this is perfectly fine but if the one we think is a female go berserk on the other one and you start to see serious damage then be prepare to remove it. it is fine if they suffer small amount of scale damage but if it becomes so coyed it can't eat for a couple of days then it is time to remove it.
--
Long term i would reduce their food just a little - as they are both quite meaty. Also if they breed it might take 2 or 3 or 5 tries for them to get it right. The normal process is they will lay eggs - protect/fan them - eat the 'bad' eggs - the eggs will hatch after a week give or take a couple of days - and you will get wrigglers - they will typically move these wrigglers to a new spot. After a few (i forget - 5? 6?) days they will become free swimming. At this point you should inject some bbs 4 to 6 times a day the first week near them (bbs is only good a couple of days and should then be rehatched). After 7 to 14 days you can try putting in powder food like hiraki first bite or golden pearl - it is best to let it float past them as they love to chase things that move but after a while they will understand it is food whether it moves or not and you can stop hatching bbs. There are alternatives to bbs but i can't comment on teh relatives (examples include vin. eel and micro-worms).

Shadowfax777 said:
Do you think I should put them in the same tank? I would love some babies!
 
  • Thread Starter

Shadowfax777

Member
jake37 said:
I would - might produce interesting off springs. However - keep an eye on them. They might fight a little and this is perfectly fine but if the one we think is a female go berserk on the other one and you start to see serious damage then be prepare to remove it. it is fine if they suffer small amount of scale damage but if it becomes so coyed it can't eat for a couple of days then it is time to remove it.
--
Long term i would reduce their food just a little - as they are both quite meaty. Also if they breed it might take 2 or 3 or 5 tries for them to get it right. The normal process is they will lay eggs - protect/fan them - eat the 'bad' eggs - the eggs will hatch after a week give or take a couple of days - and you will get wrigglers - they will typically move these wrigglers to a new spot. After a few (i forget - 5? 6?) days they will become free swimming. At this point you should inject some bbs 4 to 6 times a day the first week near them (bbs is only good a couple of days and should then be rehatched). After 7 to 14 days you can try putting in powder food like hiraki first bite or golden pearl - it is best to let it float past them as they love to chase things that move but after a while they will understand it is food whether it moves or not and you can stop hatching bbs. There are alternatives to bbs but i can't comment on teh relatives (examples include vin. eel and micro-worms).
Thank you for all the information! I will definitely reduce the amount of food they get, and I'll try to put them together, but ofc have an eye on them
 

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