Anacharis Issues

Discussion in 'Aquarium Plants' started by Belladonna, Jul 18, 2017.

  1. Belladonna

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    about 1 week ago I bought this plant looked very healthy for a few days, I am now letting it float so it wont be disturbed when cleaning tank, I've been cutting/pinching off the yellow of the plant but the bottoms are turning bad now too, is there any product I should use to hopefully keep this plant alive?? thanks :)
  2. BHK3

    BHK3Well Known MemberMember

    Any chance you could share a photo of the plant?
  3. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    What type of lighting do you have? What ferts do you add and how often? What is the tank temperature?

    I would remove some of the healthy looking part above the yellowing areas, better for a clean cut above the area that's rotting...

  4. OP

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    have some pictures, the hood is a
    Marineland LED unfortunately on the box there is no watts on it, haven't used any type of plant products, I'm guessing that's why I'm having issues, not sure what type of product, this is my second go on live plants... thanks for the reply. tank temp set at 80, was told that shouldn't effect the plants, but not sure anymore about my lfs when I ask questions, didn't suggest it needed a fertilizer.. the ones on napkin I'm pretty sure are dead. from what other costumers have said,
    "Light comes in different spectrum of colors. There are some that you can use with this hood. This hood emits white light. (e.g. if your plant requires yellow, ultraviolet, or other light, this hood may not work well" the light can be white to blue as a night light"

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017
  5. BuddyD

    BuddyDWell Known MemberMember

    My anacharis did fine and grew it seemed like an inch every other day, but 3 weeks ago I started using Seachum liquid ferts to help the java moss and italian val and it seems the anacharis stopped growing.
  6. OP

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    bummer, not having an easy time with plants myself either :( wanted to do as natural as possible. only thing I can see an issue is my tank is still trying to keep up with the BB as I had moved some filters and ceramic filter media and added a couple more sponges and took charcoal out that wasn't even working anymore it was over 4 months old...
  7. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    So a few things... anacharis likes light... usually the standard light in a hood won't grow much except for anubias. If you decide to go further with plants I would get a plant specific light...unfortunately for most of us that also includes changing to a glass hood. It's not specifically the color of the light, but the color temperature. 6500k (daylight) is pretty standard for plant specific lights, but can range from 5500-8000 for an average, up to 10000k usually for reef set ups (10000 would be an algae nightmare on 99% of tanks).
    Second, likely since you just got it a week ago it is currently adjusting to your tank. Unfortunately anacharis doesn't always thrive at higher temperatures... that being said I have some in my tanks that are 78 and it does fine once it's established.
    Third... anacharis seems to like nitrates... not crazy high but high enough, I aim to keep my tanks between 20-30.... but they are pretty heavily planted. I would try to keep your nitrates between 10-20, closer to 20 if you can.
    A balanced fert such as nilocg thrive or UNS plant food contains macros (NPK) and micros (trace such as iron etc). Flourish is low on NP... I usually recommend it for tanks with a high bioload and heavy feeding. (It was designed this way since most tanks are like that, over stocked and overfed. This can give you decent NP levels from the food and waste alone).
    The more lighting you have, the better ferts you will need.

    @BuddyD more likely that the vals and moss started using the available nutrients and none is left for the anacharis. I would recommend to switching to one of the ferts above.... also as a side note, my vals do much better with root tabs in the substrate by them.
  8. OP

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    thank you, I really don't know too much about plants and fish, have only had the tank running since march or so, well my tank isn't overstocked far as I know, I lost a few fish and since have been trying to keep ammonia under control, its no problem keeping nitrates at 10-15 since that is where it usually always is at. I have 5 zebra danios, 4 harlequin 1 bleeding heart fish. have kept ammonia at .50 max any higher will do pwc, have a scheduled 40% twice weekly and the ammonia has never gone above.50.. interestingly at my lfs was told exact opposite of your advice temp didn't matter and light as much as it can get, really no recommendations on lights or temps, going to be looking into another lfs more knowledgeable, thank you for pointing out the things I need to look into next time I buy/keep plants being a newbie I figured light was light, lol. went for easy basic plants but now that I know about the lighting issue will be sure to do more research into low light plants from now on. maybe the fertilizer might help out some so will also look into ones that are compatible with the lights and plants
  9. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    Good plants for stock lighting would be anubias, Marimo moss balls, possibly Java fern (likely the Java fern will eventually need a bit more, but can last awhile without special lighting/ferts. Anubias would be the better choice (besides the balls) and there are many different varieties and sizes.

    As for the ammonia, what filter do you have? (Brand, model etc) what size is the tank?
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017
  10. OP

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    20 g tank, 50 aquaclear have it set up with the ceramic things in the bottom with two sponges as was suggested would be good for the BB to catch up. will have to look into those plants, I've had java moss and it didn't do well either so this was a second try as the sales person told me it didn't need special lighting.. there a 30 day guarantee on it from what was told...
  11. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    Odd for the ammonia to still be there...
    filter size seems fine...
    you have the sponges on the bottom for the basket and the bio media on top of the sponges?
    And you squeeze the sponges and swish around the biomedia in used tank water not tap?
    Any particular reason for two sponges? Both are ac brand?
    Biomedia is ac brand?
    20 high or 20 long?
    How did you cycle it in March?

    For quick ammonia absorption and stock lighting you could go with floaters like dwarf water lettuce, salvinia, frogbit. (Stay away from duckweed, it's a pain to remove, and a pain to maintain...tons get into my ACs and I have to de clog them often). You could also try hornwort, but it's not as effective as the other floaters.
    To get rid of ammonia over .5 you would need a decent amount of plants, not just one bunch...

    How's the anacharis doing?
  12. OP

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    I took some of the yellowing off looks much better today!! I just did a test on my tank, from test results I'm pretty sure the tank finally cycled! yeah all of filters are ac ceramic on bottom sponges on top,was suggested by others on here to help the bb catch up.20 g high. did some gravel vacuuming and 40% pwc since nitrates were high... thank you for checking up on the plants :)

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  13. Jocelyn AdelmanFishlore VIPMember

    You need to put the sponges on the bottom and the biomedia on the top... the sponges help to clean the water and remove waste before it hits the bio.... otherwise your pores on the bio can get clogged too easily rendering them worthless, the "nubs" on the inside of the basket are there to position the sponges in place.

    Hooray on the cycling and the plants!!! :)

    (Side note, with the ph that blue I would run the ph high test)
  14. OP

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    got it, just changed the filter around again, high range ph test is 7.4, do you think having it that level is ok? thank you for catching that!!!
  15. Distortionist

    DistortionistValued MemberMember

    When I got mine new they withered and looked like they were dying. New growth did come out and i chopped and replanted them and they did great. I think it's the change in environment. Just let them be and wait for new growth. Keep the new growth and dispose of the dying stuff if they don't recover.

    I would like to mention I'm very new to this so I could be wrong but that worked for me and my plants grow out of control in a spec v with factory light. I don't use any ferts but I have organic soil under the substrate. I also have recently been giving some excel but don't do that till yo have healthy growth. Excel I hear is hard on that type of plant and it grew fine without it.
  16. OP

    BelladonnaValued MemberMember

    thank you, yeah it does seem like its the environment change sworn they would die and so far so good. my nitrates are higher then they were so that also makes the plants happy. I'm thinking of looking into hornwort since it has been recommend and really just want to have as healthy as a tank I can, the ph is still 7.4 today and from what others say long as it stays there its good.

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