20 Gallon Tank Ammonia spike, what do I do next? :(

Drafe

Tank
What is the water volume of the tank? 20 Gallons
How long has the tank been running? About 2 and a half months
Does it have a filter? Yes
Does it have a heater? Yes
What is the water temperature? 78 F
What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.) 2 mickey mouse platies, 2 sunburst platies, 3 sunburst wag platies, 2 golden mystery snails, and 1 zebra danio.

Maintenance
How often do you change the water? Every week
How much of the water do you change? 25%
What do you use to treat your water? API Tap water conditioner
Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water? Vaccum part of the substrate

*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish? Yes
What do you use to test the water? API Freshwater Master test kit
What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Ammonia: 2 ppm
Nitrite: between 0 and .25 ppm (can't tell exactly because its color is in the middle)
Nitrate: 5 ppm
pH: 7.5-7.6

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish? 2 times a day
How much do you feed your fish? 5 pinches of food
What brand of food do you feed your fish? Omega 1 freshwater flake


Explain your emergency situation in detail.
I added 3 sunburst wag platies and 2 mystery snails on Tuesday and I decided to test the water today (Thursday). I noticed my ammonia level is 2 ppm and did a 25% water change and added seachem stability. Tested the water after a while and the ammonia is still the same. Fish don't show any unusual symptoms, but I decided to hold back on feeding them for a few days. What caused this ammonia spike, did I add too many fish at the same time, or was it my feeding because I did increase the feeding when I got new plates. I'm feeling hopeless, it's just problems after problems. Any suggestion from you guys to help save my fish? I'd really appreciate it, thanks.
 

jtjgg

increase water changes to 50%

the new fish and the increased feeding both attributed to the ammonia spike.

do you have Seachem Prime? add an extra dose.
 

Fishstery

Tank
What is the water volume of the tank? 20 Gallons
How long has the tank been running? About 2 and a half months
Does it have a filter? Yes
Does it have a heater? Yes
What is the water temperature? 78 F
What is the entire stocking of this tank? (Please list all fish and inverts.) 2 mickey mouse platies, 2 sunburst platies, 3 sunburst wag platies, 2 golden mystery snails, and 1 zebra danio.

Maintenance
How often do you change the water? Every week
How much of the water do you change? 25%
What do you use to treat your water? API Tap water conditioner
Do you vacuum the substrate or just the water? Vaccum part of the substrate

*Parameters - Very Important
Did you cycle your tank before adding fish? Yes
What do you use to test the water? API Freshwater Master test kit
What are your parameters? We need to know the exact numbers, not just “fine” or “safe”.
Ammonia: 2 ppm
Nitrite: between 0 and .25 ppm (can't tell exactly because its color is in the middle)
Nitrate: 5 ppm
pH: 7.5-7.6

Feeding
How often do you feed your fish? 2 times a day
How much do you feed your fish? 5 pinches of food
What brand of food do you feed your fish? Omega 1 freshwater flake


Explain your emergency situation in detail.
I added 3 sunburst wag platies and 2 mystery snails on Tuesday and I decided to test the water today (Thursday). I noticed my ammonia level is 2 ppm and did a 25% water change and added seachem stability. Tested the water after a while and the ammonia is still the same. Fish don't show any unusual symptoms, but I decided to hold back on feeding them for a few days. What caused this ammonia spike, did I add too many fish at the same time, or was it my feeding because I did increase the feeding when I got new plates. I'm feeling hopeless, it's just problems after problems. Any suggestion from you guys to help save my fish? I'd really appreciate it, thanks.
Have you done anything with your filter lately? Cleaning, forgetting to turn it back on after a WC, etc.

Did you test your tap water to see if it has ammonia in it? When using tap the parameters are always subject to change. Its good practice to test it every so often throughout the year.

It seems to me you are definitely overfeeding. Only feed once a day, watch all of your fish when you feed to make sure everyone got some food. Fish are voracious eaters and will not stop eating until you stop adding food. Just look for slightly plump bellies and be done. Most members here even skip feeding once or twice a week, and some of us including myself only feed every other day. There's a good possibility there's too much food floating around at once so a lot falls into the substrate which could cause a spike if left to decompose.

I don't think adding 2 snails and 3 platies at once would cause such a spike, but still possible. I'd pick up seachem prime and dose every 24 hours to detoxify the ammonia, and do water changes as frequently as you can until the spike decreased to .25ppm.
 

Drafe

increase water changes to 50%

the new fish and the increased feeding both attributed to the ammonia spike.

do you have Seachem Prime? add an extra dose.
I do not have seachem prime, I will try to do a water change first thing tomorrow before I go to school, if not I will do it right after school. How frequently should I do these 50% wc?
Have you done anything with your filter lately? Cleaning, forgetting to turn it back on after a WC, etc.

Did you test your tap water to see if it has ammonia in it? When using tap the parameters are always subject to change. Its good practice to test it every so often throughout the year.

It seems to me you are definitely overfeeding. Only feed once a day, watch all of your fish when you feed to make sure everyone got some food. Fish are voracious eaters and will not stop eating until you stop adding food. Just look for slightly plump bellies and be done. Most members here even skip feeding once or twice a week, and some of us including myself only feed every other day. There's a good possibility there's too much food floating around at once so a lot falls into the substrate which could cause a spike if left to decompose.

I don't think adding 2 snails and 3 platies at once would cause such a spike, but still possible. I'd pick up seachem prime and dose every 24 hours to detoxify the ammonia, and do water changes as frequently as you can until the spike decreased to .25ppm.
I have a water softener so I don't use my taps in the house. I have this belief that my water softeners don't go through the taps in my backyard. I tested the water that has been softened and is has roughly less than .25 ppm ammonia. I will definitely dial down on the feeding.

Like I responded to another person, I try to squeeze in a wc before school tomorrow morning but it's unlikely I'll have the time. If not ill do it right after school. Any clue on how long the fish can survive in the parameters they are in now. Will it be safe enough for me to do my wc tomorrow morning or is it something I have to do like rn?

I also vacuumed part of my substrate (Mainly the areas where I drop my food). Will this help lower the ammonia levels or was it a waste of effort and the ammonia was already in the water column?
 

Fishstery

I do not have seachem prime, I will try to do a water change first thing tomorrow before I go to school, if not I will do it right after school. How frequently should I do these 50% wc?

I have a water softener so I don't use my taps in the house. I have this belief that my water softeners don't go through the taps in my backyard. I tested the water that has been softened and is has roughly less than .25 ppm ammonia. I will definitely dial down on the feeding.

Like I responded to another person, I try to squeeze in a wc before school tomorrow morning but it's unlikely I'll have the time. If not ill do it right after school. Any clue on how long the fish can survive in the parameters they are in now. Will it be safe enough for me to do my wc tomorrow morning or is it something I have to do like rn?

I also vacuumed part of my substrate (Mainly the areas where I drop my food). Will this help lower the ammonia levels or was it a waste of effort and the ammonia was already in the water column?
Since there is ammonia present in your tap weekly 50% water changes is not a good idea because every water change you will be adding more ammonia. I would do twice weekly 20% if you are able to time-wise. Your filter bacteria will eventually populate enough to consume extra ammonia via waterchange within 24 hours given it is not too much ammonia at once (hence my advise to do smaller more frequent changes than one large one). Do you have an airstone? Adding more oxygen saturation can help fish deal with ammonia poisoning. It is not going to make a huge difference in doing a water change right this second, but as soon as you can fit it into your schedule is adequate. Just do not wait days yk? If you are able, pick up some prime asap. It will bind ammonia and nitrite so that it is much less toxic for your fish. This will buy you time to slowly work out the ammonia via water changes, because there is no way to remove it all at once and ensure that it won't slowly creep back up. You did a good job by vaccing the gravel for food. I would continue to vacuum every water change as there is most definitely more within the substrate that may continue to leech ammonia for a while if it piled up that bad. Vacuuming the substrate should be a regular part of every water change. The only time I skip the substrate is if I am in a hurry on my water change which isn't too often.
 

Drafe

Since there is ammonia present in your tap weekly 50% water changes is not a good idea because every water change you will be adding more ammonia. I would do twice weekly 20% if you are able to time-wise. Your filter bacteria will eventually populate enough to consume extra ammonia via waterchange within 24 hours given it is not too much ammonia at once (hence my advise to do smaller more frequent changes than one large one). Do you have an airstone? Adding more oxygen saturation can help fish deal with ammonia poisoning. It is not going to make a huge difference in doing a water change right this second, but as soon as you can fit it into your schedule is adequate. Just do not wait days yk? If you are able, pick up some prime asap. It will bind ammonia and nitrite so that it is much less toxic for your fish. This will buy you time to slowly work out the ammonia via water changes, because there is no way to remove it all at once and ensure that it won't slowly creep back up. You did a good job by vaccing the gravel for food. I would continue to vacuum every water change as there is most definitely more within the substrate that may continue to leech ammonia for a while if it piled up that bad. Vacuuming the substrate should be a regular part of every water change. The only time I skip the substrate is if I am in a hurry on my water change which isn't too often.
Ok so I read this after doing a 50% wc before going to school, I will try to get prime, and also when I get back from school today, which will be in like 8 hours, do I do another water change or do one tomorrow to reduce the 2ppm ammonia. I can fit 2 20% wc weekly, that's no issue.
 

Fisch

Sorrybto hearvthat you are going through a mini cycle. The main objective is the reduction of Ammonia in the tank to get your little guys out of the danger zone. The bacteria is trying to catch up with the new bioload at this time, so fish and filter need your help for a bit.
As the goal is to minimize the Ammonia and Nitrites, I would suggest to do the 50% waterchange asap, which would reduce your Ammonia to 1ppm, then do another change 50% change tomorrow to reduce it hopefully to .5ppm, another one on Sunday to get it down to .25ppm (the values may a bit higher as your fish are producing waste).
Monitoring parameters daily at this time is essential as it gives you the status of fish health and where you are in your mini cycle. Prime will help to detoxify small amounts of ammonia, water changes do the rest. Depending on the Ammonia and Nitrite level you can reduce the waterchanges slowly.
 

Fishstery

Sorrybto hearvthat you are going through a mini cycle. The main objective is the reduction of Ammonia in the tank to get your little guys out of the danger zone. The bacteria is trying to catch up with the new bioload at this time, so fish and filter need your help for a bit.
As the goal is to minimize the Ammonia and Nitrites, I would suggest to do the 50% waterchange asap, which would reduce your Ammonia to 1ppm, then do another change 50% change tomorrow to reduce it hopefully to .5ppm, another one on Sunday to get it down to .25ppm (the values may a bit higher as your fish are producing waste).
Monitoring parameters daily at this time is essential as it gives you the status of fish health and where you are in your mini cycle. Prime will help to detoxify small amounts of ammonia, water changes do the rest. Depending on the Ammonia and Nitrite level you can reduce the waterchanges slowly.
OP has Ammonia present in their tap. Doing large water changes will only add to the issue and drag the spike out further. Their tank is already mature so all they need to do is try to keep the ammonia level a tad lower than 2ppm so their bacteria can catch up, and also take some preventive measures to lessen the health affects against their fish. I have a feeling within a few days to a week the spike will taper off on its own no problem.
 

FishDin

Make sure the snails are alive. Take them out and sniff them. If dead, it will be obvious. Stinky!

If they are moving around no need to check. :~)
 

Fisch

OP has Ammonia present in their tap. Doing large water changes will only add to the issue and drag the spike out further. Their tank is already mature so all they need to do is try to keep the ammonia level a tad lower than 2ppm so their bacteria can catch up, and also take some preventive measures to lessen the health affects against their fish. I have a feeling within a few days to a week the spike will taper off on its own no problem.
We agree to disagree.....25 in the tap water will still dilute the full amount, which is the whole point of the exercise.
 

Drafe

Sorrybto hearvthat you are going through a mini cycle. The main objective is the reduction of Ammonia in the tank to get your little guys out of the danger zone. The bacteria is trying to catch up with the new bioload at this time, so fish and filter need your help for a bit.
As the goal is to minimize the Ammonia and Nitrites, I would suggest to do the 50% waterchange asap, which would reduce your Ammonia to 1ppm, then do another change 50% change tomorrow to reduce it hopefully to .5ppm, another one on Sunday to get it down to .25ppm (the values may a bit higher as your fish are producing waste).
Monitoring parameters daily at this time is essential as it gives you the status of fish health and where you are in your mini cycle. Prime will help to detoxify small amounts of ammonia, water changes do the rest. Depending on the Ammonia and Nitrite level you can reduce the waterchanges slowly.
Ok thanks a lot, I will test the water as soon as I get home and if it’s still high, like 2ppm then I will do another 25% wc and do 50% wc on Saturday and Sunday. I will keep you guys updated and I will probably need you guys help more so don’t forget about this thread:)
 

Fishstery

Ok thanks a lot, I will test the water as soon as I get home and if it’s still high, like 2ppm then I will do another 25% wc and do 50% wc on Saturday and Sunday. I will keep you guys updated and I will probably need you guys help more so don’t forget about this thread:)
Sounds good! Don't worry, we will all still be here!
 

Drafe

Update: My ammonia was 1 ppm I did a 50% wc after I got from school and re-dosed stability. I will hopefully go and grab prime. Last night 1 of my sunburst platy was acting kinda lethargic but today morning he doesn't seem too bad. My fish are acting kinda slow than they really are but that's probably because of the rough situation they are in. I tested my water today morning and my ammonia levels were either .50 ppm or .25ppm (I can't really tell they look the exact same colors to me) and the nitrite levels are somewhere in the middle of.50 and 1 ppm. I don't like that nitrite level so I am planning on doing a water change in a few hours. Should I do a 25% or 50% wc?
 

Dunk2

Update: My ammonia was 1 ppm I did a 50% wc after I got from school and re-dosed stability. I will hopefully go and grab prime. Last night 1 of my sunburst platy was acting kinda lethargic but today morning he doesn't seem too bad. My fish are acting kinda slow than they really are but that's probably because of the rough situation they are in. I tested my water today morning and my ammonia levels were either .50 ppm or .25ppm (I can't really tell they look the exact same colors to me) and the nitrite levels are somewhere in the middle of.50 and 1 ppm. I don't like that nitrite level so I am planning on doing a water change in a few hours. Should I do a 25% or 50% wc?

I’d also suggest you get Prime.

I’d do at least a 50% change. Even when using Prime for fish-in cycles, I suggest doing enough water changes to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites at or below 0.50 ppm.
 

Fisch

Fully agree with Dunk2, 50% waterchange, and another one tomorrow. Your fish should perk up if you follow through. Good luck!
 

Drafe

Update 2: Ammonia levels are back down at 0 (whewww) but my nitrite is dangerously high. It is somewhere in the middle of 1 and 2 ppm, but closer to the color of 2 ppm. I couldn't get prime yesterday so I'll be getting that today in a few hours. As suggested I will do a 50% wc after I get my prime. I currently use an API tap water conditioner. Should I condition my water with API that I will be adding into the tank and then use prime on the whole tank or should I only use prime on the water I'm going to add?

The fish seem to be doing ok, they are hungry tho since I haven't fed them in 3 days. They keep pecking at my decor in hopes to find algae. Only one of my platy seems to be really lethargic, she's at the top in a slanting position, with her mouth facing the surface of the water and the rest of her body is slanted. I figured she has been massively affected by the ammonia and is constantly moving her gills.
 

Ouse

As suggested I will do a 50% wc after I get my prime. I currently use an API tap water conditioner.
Just do a 50% water change now using only the API water conditioner.

Prime is a dechlorinator, so you have the choice of using either it or the API water conditioner. It’s unnecessary to use both at once.

You can defeat ammonia/nitrite spikes without using Prime. It’s only the slightest tad less easy.
Should I condition my water with API that I will be adding into the tank and then use prime on the whole tank or should I only use prime on the water I'm going to add?
When using Prime (and any other water conditioner), use it on the water as you add it, not the whole tank. You use less water conditioner doing it that way. ;)
 

StarGirl

I would just use the Prime. You don't need both. You can still use the API whenever you dont have any ammonia or nitrites present.
 

Dunk2

Update 2: Ammonia levels are back down at 0 (whewww) but my nitrite is dangerously high. It is somewhere in the middle of 1 and 2 ppm, but closer to the color of 2 ppm. I couldn't get prime yesterday so I'll be getting that today in a few hours. As suggested I will do a 50% wc after I get my prime. I currently use an API tap water conditioner. Should I condition my water with API that I will be adding into the tank and then use prime on the whole tank or should I only use prime on the water I'm going to add?

The fish seem to be doing ok, they are hungry tho since I haven't fed them in 3 days. They keep pecking at my decor in hopes to find algae. Only one of my platy seems to be really lethargic, she's at the top in a slanting position, with her mouth facing the surface of the water and the rest of her body is slanted. I figured she has been massively affected by the ammonia and is constantly moving her gills.

Because you’re doing a fish-in cycle, Prime should be dosed based on the tank volume, not just the water you’re adding.
 

Drafe

Just do a 50% water change now using only the API water conditioner.

Prime is a dechlorinator, so you have the choice of using either it or the API water conditioner. It’s unnecessary to use both at once.

You can defeat ammonia/nitrite spikes without using Prime. It’s only the slightest tad less easy.

When using Prime (and any other water conditioner), use it on the water as you add it, not the whole tank. You use less water conditioner doing it that way. ;)
ok, I will use prime. The only reason I'm using prime is for temporarily detoxifying the nitrites so my fish can have it a little bit easier. I don't think I'll be able to do a wc now since I'm heading out. Thanks!
I would just use the Prime. You don't need both. You can still use the API whenever you dont have any ammonia or nitrites present.
Gotcha, Thanks Stargirl!
Because you’re doing a fish-in cycle, Prime should be dosed based on the tank volume, not just the water you’re adding.
okie dokie, thanks a lot!
 

Ouse

The only reason I'm using prime is for temporarily detoxifying the nitrites so my fish can have it a little bit easier.
That and it’s ability to dechlorinate 400l for every 10ml of Prime is what makes it quite a nifty dechlorinator.
 

Drafe

That and it’s ability to dechlorinate 400l for every 10ml of Prime is what makes it quite a nifty dechlorinator.
Wow, I did not know that. I should probably switch to prime as my primary conditioner!
 

Ouse

Wow, I did not know that. I should probably switch to prime as my primary conditioner!
I use the two litre bottles. They take months to run out, even though I still use a little more Prime than I might need per dose.
 

Drafe

Update 3: I'm pretty positive the mini-cycle has been resolved. Ammonia and nitrite are back at 0 unless the nitrite was only back at zero because prime temporarily detoxed it. Anyways, I will keep monitoring. As for my fish, everyone survived except for one sunburst wag platy. She had a really thin body before she died. She didn't have a plump belly like the others, rather it was just straight from head to tail. I tried my best but I still couldn't save her. Thank you all for helping me when I went through this terrorizing experience.

Also when can I start feeding them again, should I wait a day or even more until I can feed them?
 

jdhef

Detoxed ammonia should test positive with the API test kit. So if you are reading 0ppm nitrite, then it would apper the mini-cycle has ended.

I would think you could start feeding again now.
 

FishDin

Well done!

Just a note for future reference, when using Prime to detoxify, the ammonia and nitrite will still show up when you test (as jdhef said) and it's still available to the bacteria, it's just been made nontoxic to the tank's inhabitants. If you are now showing 0 ammonia and nitrite it is because of water changes you did and your biological filter rebounded to meet the current bioload in the tank and not because you added Prime. The Prime was needed to detoxify the ammonia and nitrite to protect your fish while you tried to sort out the problem.
 

Drafe

Detoxed ammonia should test positive with the API test kit. So if you are reading 0ppm nitrite, then it would apper the mini-cycle has ended.

I would think you could start feeding again now.
Alrighty, thanks! I will wait a bit longer before I feed them just to be safe. I will feed them later today.
Well done!

Just a note for future reference, when using Prime to detoxify, the ammonia and nitrite will still show up when you test (as jdhef said) and it's still available to the bacteria, it's just been made nontoxic to the tank's inhabitants. If you are now showing 0 ammonia and nitrite it is because of water changes you did and your biological filter rebounded to meet the current bioload in the tank and not because you added Prime. The Prime was needed to detoxify the ammonia and nitrite to protect your fish while you tried to sort out the problem.
Oh ok, thanks for the information!
 

Drafe

In my previous post, I was dealing with an ammonia spike from overfeeding and adding in 3 platies. I thought that the spike was over and I was back to normal again, but I still kept getting readings of ammonia (Somewhere between .25 and.5 ppm). But when I left the test tube with the mixed solution overnight, I would wake up to find that my ammonia color would change to yellow, which was 0 ppm. I didn't know which test to believe, so I did 25% and 50% wc almost every day or every other day and added prime and stability. I still get a reading of ammonia but when left overnight it changes color and reads 0. Which test should I believe, the one I get after 5 minutes or the one I get after leaving it overnight.

My nitrite readings are 0 ppm and nitrates are less than 5 ppm.
 

PAcanis

Five minutes.
 

MacZ

No matter what manufacturer:
Drip test kit results have to be read after 3-5 minutes and after that the readings are way off.
Teststrip results have to be read after 60 seconds. After that the readings are off aswell.

This SHOULD be in the instructions. Always.
 

PAcanis

Not to mention the nitrite test will tint the test tube if left overnight :rolleyes:
 

Flyfisha

The reading is taken at 5 minutes.

However IMO Don’t be to hung up on wanting to see the colour at the top of the API colour chart. I never do. My believe is there will always be a small background reading of ammonia. The fish are breathing out ammonia continuously. The bacteria are eating as fast as they can.

Also the lighting used makes a difference. Sunlight is one colour and electric house lighting gives another colour .

As well the safe level for ammonia is actually not zero. That’s right. That’s what I just wrote.
Depending on the water temperature and the PH the safe level can be found on this chart.

1B96EB65-287E-4C70-9E67-B6BE79E5D123.png
OK in general terms we should never see any green in the test. But worrying about the colour looking like .25 is worrying for no reason.

Here is an old photo of my CYCLED tank under electric light at exactly 5 minutes.
BB27D743-7366-4F87-9ED9-C894E925C09B.jpeg

To answer your question.
At five minutes we read the test and toss the liquid away. Rinse the test tube after each use and again before taking another test.

edit
Same test tube outside in sunlight.
It’s still not the correct colour. BUT it has no green.
5A3AF09A-F9A2-4D3E-AB7A-60BED9F59A0D.jpeg
 

Drafe

Ok, I understand it now a little better. Thank you everyone. Now as for my situation with the ammonia reading, should I keep doing my water changes with prime and stability. I was also thinking of buying some floating plants to also help with reducing it. I heard duckweed will take in ammonia and nitrates. Any thoughts on what I should do differently to deal with the ammonia readings?
 

MacZ

When your tap is treated with chloramine the dechlorinator splits it into chlorine and ammonia, detoxifying both, but NOT removing them. Your ammonia reading is normal in that case.
The chlorine then gasses off, the ammonia is being metabolized by the microorganisms in your filter.

So basically... carry on, nothing wrong.
 

Flyfisha

If you are really truly having an ammonia spike then definitely do a water change or two.

Rip the water out and toss new water in . A five minute job.

Do not clean any hard surfaces. Do not clean the filter.

Bacteria can double in numbers every 24 hours. So if you really are seeing an ammonia spike lasting more than a couple of days something else is wrong.

The filter cartridges.
Do you replace them and put new ones in?
 

Bwood22

If you are worried about the difference in color between 0ppm and .25ppm then don't be.
Just go on with your day.

But if you notice that vial turning undeniably green then you should act accordingly.

Am I incorrect in assuming that your tank isn't cycled? Or Is your low nitrate reading because of all of the water changes?
 

mattgirl

I heard duckweed will take in ammonia and nitrates.
Unless you want to have to deal with this for the rest of your life I highly recommend you not get duckweed. There are other floating plants that are easier to control such as frog bit, dwarf and regular water lettuce or red root floaters. If you choose to get floating plants, quarantine them for a few days to make sure no duckweed came along with them. I didn't and to this day I am still trying to get rid of this tag along plant.

I agree with what everyone else is saying. What you see at 5 minutes is the correct reading. As long as the ammonia doesn't go above .25 go back to your weekly water changes.
 

PAcanis

I was just going to say this, you really have to like duckweed to have duckweed.
 

Drafe

If you are really truly having an ammonia spike then definitely do a water change or two.

Rip the water out and toss new water in . A five minute job.

Do not clean any hard surfaces. Do not clean the filter.

Bacteria can double in numbers every 24 hours. So if you really are seeing an ammonia spike lasting more than a couple of days something else is wrong.

The filter cartridges.
Do you replace them and put new ones in?
I haven’t replaced my filter catridges since I got my filter. I will definitely do one more water change today and keep monitoring
If you are worried about the difference in color between 0ppm and .25ppm then don't be.
Just go on with your day.

But if you notice that vial turning undeniably green then you should act accordingly.

Am I incorrect in assuming that your tank isn't cycled? Or Is your low nitrate reading because of all of the water changes?
I was positive that my tank was cycled before adding in My fish. My nitrate reading is low prob because of the water changes.
Ok so I will get home and do another ammonia nitrite and nitrate test and post the results here. I will keep dosing stability for the next 6 days as told on the bottle. I will also look into the other floating plants that were recommended.

Thanks again everyone
 

Fish99

I haven’t replaced my filter catridges since I got my filter. I will definitely do one more water change today and keep monitoring

I was positive that my tank was cycled before adding in My fish. My nitrate reading is low prob because of the water changes.
Ok so I will get home and do another ammonia nitrite and nitrate test and post the results here. I will keep dosing stability for the next 6 days as told on the bottle. I will also look into the other floating plants that were recommended.

Thanks again everyone
Sounds good except the Stability.
Just keep the ammonia down to about .05 ppm and no less, with water changes if need be.
Any less and it won't cycle because there won't be enough ammonia.
 

Drafe

Sounds good except the Stability.
Just keep the ammonia down to about .05 ppm and no less, with water changes if need be.
Any less and it won't cycle because there won't be enough ammonia.
Why shouldn't I dose stability? Will it like mess with the whole cycle or something else?
 

Bwood22

Why shouldn't I dose stability? Will it like mess with the whole cycle or something else?
I use Stability and my cycle is very......stable.

There is a school of thought that bottled bacteria is useless. Im not sure if that is what he means but I personally don't have a problem with it.

We're talking about the company that developed the Prime water conditioner and Purigen. I doubt they would create some other bogus product that they didn't test to make sure that it does what they want it to do.

I cycle my tanks with Stability and (knock on wood) Ive never had any unwanted spikes if any sort.
 

Drafe

Ok so I just did a water test and my readings are not looking good. I have an ammonia reading close to 1 ppm, nitrite levels are .25 ppm. I feel like this problem needs to be in a thread of its own so I will be creating another thread to seek help from, explaining everything.

Ok, so I have been dealing with an ammonia spike for the past couple of weeks. It had slowly died down so I thought the nightmare was over but recently it has started back up again. My pH is 8.0, my current ammonia level is 1 ppm and my nitrite level is.25 pm. I have done 50% and 25% wc every day last week. I also did a 50% wc on Sunday. I tested my water today and those were the readings I got. It's late over here so I don't have the time to cram in a wc so instead I just dosed my tank with seachem prime. I will also add some seachem stability in a couple of minutes. I am planning to do a 50% wc tomorrow after school.

FYI I have .25 ppm of ammonia in my tap and also a bit of nitrite, less than.25 ppm.

What should my next move be, I am really tired of this whole ammonia problem. I haven't fed my fish for 3 days, but they constantly poop and are constantly sucking on my plants that have algae on them.

My stocking is 6 platies and 1 zebra danio with 2 mystery snails if y'all wanted to know.

Any help would be apppreciated
 

bcfishtanks

These sorts of problems are definitely frustrating. What size is your tank?
 

Sokamix

Ok, so I have been dealing with an ammonia spike for the past couple of weeks. It had slowly died down so I thought the nightmare was over but recently it has started back up again. My pH is 8.0, my current ammonia level is 1 ppm and my nitrite level is.25 pm. I have done 50% and 25% wc every day last week. I also did a 50% wc on Sunday. I tested my water today and those were the readings I got. It's late over here so I don't have the time to cram in a wc so instead I just dosed my tank with seachem prime. I will also add some seachem stability in a couple of minutes. I am planning to do a 50% wc tomorrow after school.

FYI I have .25 ppm of ammonia in my tap and also a bit of nitrite, less than.25 ppm.

What should my next move be, I am really tired of this whole ammonia problem. I haven't fed my fish for 3 days, but they constantly poop and are constantly sucking on my plants that have algae on them.

My stocking is 6 platies and 1 zebra danio with 2 mystery snails if y'all wanted to know.

Any help would be apppreciated
What is your tank size? How long has the tank been running? Did you cycle your tank? I don’t really think 50% water change EVERYDAY is good. I think 50% 1-2 times a week is good enough, maybe that’s causing it? Also API QuickStart is amazing, it gets rid of ammonia
 

Drafe

These sorts of problems are definitely frustrating. What size is your tank?
Oh I’m sorry I forgot to mention my tank size. It’s a 20g high
 

bcfishtanks

QuickStart can definitely help to begin remediating the problem, but it won't solve the problem. A good rule of thumb is to do a 50% water change every other day, since Prime can help neutralize toxic chemicals (up to a certain threshold) for about 48 hours.
 

Drafe

I
What is your tank size? How long has the tank been running? Did you cycle your tank? I don’t really think 50% water change EVERYDAY is good. I think 50% 1-2 times a week is good enough, maybe that’s causing it? Also API QuickStart is amazing, it gets rid of ammonia
I do have a bottle of QuickStart that I bought at the start of my cycling process but I switched to seachem since I started to get results instantly after using stability. I was positive I cycled my tank before adding my fish. The tank has been running for 3 months now. It’s a 20g high
 

Dunk2

I

I do have a bottle of QuickStart that I bought at the start of my cycling process but I switched to seachem since I started to get results instantly after using stability. I was positive I cycled my tank before adding my fish. The tank has been running for 3 months now. It’s a 20g high
Until your tank fully cycles, I’d suggest daily testing and enough water changes to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites at or below 0.50 ppm. Simply said, water changes should be done based on test results, not every other day or based on some pre-determined percentage.

That could mean daily water changes, which are absolutely fine so long as you temperature match the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature and dose Prime at each change based on tank volume.

If your tank was cycled at one point, I’d be curious about what caused this to happen. . .
What are you using to test your water parameters?
How did you cycle the tank? How long did it take to fully cycle?
How often do you feed your fish?
How often do you vacuum the substrate?
Did you add fish around the time ammonia reappeared? If so, how many?
Did you clean or change anything with the filter or filter media? If so, what did you do?
What filter is running on this tank?
 

Drafe

Until your tank fully cycles, I’d suggest daily testing and enough water changes to keep the combined level of ammonia and nitrites at or below 0.50 ppm. Simply said, water changes should be done based on test results, not every other day or based on some pre-determined percentage.

That could mean daily water changes, which are absolutely fine so long as you temperature match the water you’re adding to the tank water temperature and dose Prime at each change based on tank volume.

If your tank was cycled at one point, I’d be curious about what caused this to happen. . .
What are you using to test your water parameters?
How did you cycle the tank? How long did it take to fully cycle?
How often do you feed your fish?
How often do you vacuum the substrate?
Did you add fish around the time ammonia reappeared? If so, how many?
Did you clean or change anything with the filter or filter media? If so, what did you do?
What filter is running on this tank?
I use the API master test kit

I first started with ghost feeding and then proceeded to add a few zebra danios to fish in cycle. Then when my ammonia and nitrite levels were zero with a hint of nitrate levels, I considered my tank cycled. It took about a month. I then added 4 platies after that.

I feed them twice a day, maybe once. But I haven't fed them lately since the ammonia problem, but they seem to be eating the algae on my decor plants.

I vacuum every time I do a wc

I didn't add fish before it reappeared, but when I added my most recent batch of fish, I tested the next day and found out I had 2 ppm of ammonia

I never cleaned any filter media, I run a TopFin PF 20 on my tank.
 

Random Great Thread!

Latest Aquarium Threads

Top Bottom