Ammonia Problems

Discussion in 'Freshwater Beginners' started by Richelle, Apr 11, 2018.

  1. Richelle

    RichelleNew MemberMember

    Ok, new question. The angels have been in the tank for almost 2 months (we started with a fishless cyclefor a few weeks then added the angels). After adding the rest of the fish over the last two weeks (which I now realize may have been too much too fast) we are having a slight spike.

    .25 ammonia, 0 , 5 , 7.4-7.6, temp - 80 F
    Tested with API kit.

    We are using a canister.

    Is this normal? We have been doing daily 25-30% changes. Using conditioner. Will the bio filter eventually catch up to the current load and how long does this usually take? Are daily water changes the best way to treat the ammonia spike or are there other methods I should be doing as well?

    Thank you all for your help so far!

    EDIT: after posting I tested my tap water and the ammonia straight from the tap is .5

    Any suggestions?
    Should I be double dosing with prime when doing water changes?
  2. Fashooga

    FashoogaFishlore VIPMember

    I'm wondering if the filter itself is not capable of converting the ammonia. The Cascade 700 does tanks up to 65g whether that's true or not remains a question. For instance...a candy bar has 300 calories in it...but guidelines by the government (US) say that it only has to be within that 300 calories could me 20% more or less. That's how I think some filters are. They rate themselves as this much but reality they only really do this much.

    Your tank should have been cycled if you did a fishless cycle by now. Because you have fish there you'll need to do daily water changes.

    What do you have in your Cascade?
  3. OP

    RichelleNew MemberMember

    We have the media that came with the filter (bio sponge, floss pads, carbon) but I will be replacing the carbon with sea chem purigen and adding sea chem matrix.
  4. Jenoli42

    Jenoli42Well Known MemberMember

    if your tap has ammonia then your BB need time to process. just dose the normal dose of prime into your tap water before putting in the tank.

    .25 isn't terrible & given your tap is higher, I'd stop the pwc & just dose stability. do your weekly pwc as normal but no need to do pwc between unless your ammonia gets near 1ppm or you start seeing nitrites :)
  5. Mom2some

    Mom2someWell Known MemberMember

    I have ammonia in my source periodically from 0 to >2.0. My mature tank can process it in 24 hours most of the time.

    I recommend this formula (learned here in FL):
    If Ammonia + nitrites are > or = 1.0 then do a 50% water change, dose Prime & retest in 24 hours.
    If Ammonia + nitrites <1.0 dose Prime for the full vomiting the tank & walk away - to retest in 24 hours.
  6. Jenoli42

    Jenoli42Well Known MemberMember

    I agree with this but I'm sure you didn't mean to write vomiting... lolz
  7. mattgirl

    mattgirlFishlore VIPMember

    Auto correct can come up with some face reddening corrections :D
  8. jack22

    jack22Valued MemberMember

    I'm just thinking out loud here..

    1. Is the test kit reading correct? Check the result by bring some tank water to the LFS for testing. They may use the same test kit, but still better to check it.

    2. Is tap water allowed to contain ammonia?

    3. Why isn't the ammonia 0 when nitrite is 0? Is it because of the frequent wc preventing more bacteria from forming to convert the ammonia?

    4. There are 2 forms of ammonia and only one of them is dangerous to fish, but the test kit shows reading for both.

    5. I read that .25ppm ammonia is dangerous to fish, but my experience shows that fish don't die at that level. Don't know how healthy they are though, but they seem to behave just normal.