Ammo Lock And Increased Ammonia Level?

Ronoc94
  • #1
So I started a 60 gallon tall a few weeks ago (beginning of april) and I added 10 tigerbarbs and 10 large bronze corys. And 2 juvenile blue acaras.

I had all these guys in there before the tank was done cycling 100%. After adding the fish, I tested my water and found that I had 0.50ppm of ammonia.

Alarmed I went the quickest route of recovery for my tank which I was led to believe was AMMO LOCK.

Since I started using ammo lock over the past two weeks. My ammonia level went from .50ppm - 8.0ppm or higher. My apI kit doesn't even test this colour accurately.

Iv been dosing the instructed amount. 30ml for 60 gallonof water every 2 days.

If anyone has any experience with ammo lock and any recommendations they would be greatly appriciated.

I do have to say though, I do believe the ammo lock has been keeping my fish alive because if I did have toxic 8.0ppm all my fish would die I presume?

This is my first issue with ammonia
1526987608544.jpg
 
Dave125g
  • #2
I would do a very large water change first. Then use a bacterial supplement like tetra safe start, or seachem stability. Also seachem prime will lock ammonia, but only up to 2ppm. I imagine amolock works the same. The thing about prime is it also De-chlorinates the water and neutralizes heavy metals. Is an all in 1 water conditioner.

PS I like your stocking.
 
finnipper59
  • #3
I would do a very large water change first. Then use a bacterial supplement like tetra safe start, or seachem stability. Also seachem prime will lock ammonia, but only up to 2ppm. I imagine amolock works the same. The thing about prime is it also De-chlorinates the water and neutralizes heavy metals. Is an all in 1 water conditioner.

PS I like your stocking.
If Ammolock is keeping your fish alive, then keep using it. I'm cycling another 55 gallon tank in my basement, because now that my 5 angelfish are grown, the tank is overstocked. I do a 25 percent water change every other day, but I dose them everyday with AmQuel to detoxify ammonia. Until my new tank is cycled, I believe that it's the AmQuel that's keeping them alive.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #4
I would do a very large water change first. Then use a bacterial supplement like tetra safe start, or seachem stability. Also seachem prime will lock ammonia, but only up to 2ppm. I imagine amolock works the same. The thing about prime is it also De-chlorinates the water and neutralizes heavy metals. Is an all in 1 water conditioner.

PS I like your stocking.
Iv been doing 30 percent water changes daily. I did two 50% changes yesterday and the ammonia test reads the exact same. Honestly I'm stumped. I have no clue what to do to fix this. I heard that API quickstart is also good.

I dose flourish excel aswell. Not enough though.

And thankyou, once the blue acaras have grown a little bit I'm going to be adding a firemouth. My lfs firemouths are half grown and the blue acaras are just juveniles. Ill also be adding another 5-8 tigerbarbs.

If Ammolock is keeping your fish alive, then keep using it. I'm cycling another 55 gallon tank in my basement, because now that my 5 angelfish are grown, the tank is overstocked. I do a 25 percent water change every other day, but I dose them everyday with AmQuel to detoxify ammonia. Until my new tank is cycled, I believe that it's the AmQuel that's keeping them alive.
So I should continue with the ammolock and hope the ammonia goes away? On the bottle it says dose every two days and if you still test positive start water changes.

Iv been doing 30% everyday for the last week and I did two 50% water changes yesterday and the results read the exact same.
 
finnipper59
  • #5
Iv been doing 30 percent water changes daily. I did two 50% changes yesterday and the ammonia test reads the exact same. Honestly I'm stumped. I have no clue what to do to fix this. I heard that API quickstart is also good.

I dose flourish excel aswell. Not enough though.

And thankyou, once the blue acaras have grown a little bit I'm going to be adding a firemouth. My lfs firemouths are half grown and the blue acaras are just juveniles. Ill also be adding another 5-8 tigerbarbs.
I currently have 5 grown angelfish, 4 cory cats, 6 redeye tetras, and a betta. These angelfish produce a phenomenal amount of poop everyday. I vacuum out the tank every other day and would almost swear that someone else is feeding them too because there seem to be more poop than the food I give them.

My tank has been cycled since I put the entire stock in as juveniles, but now with them grown, I'm having ammonia problems with a fully cycled tank and water changes. 5 angelfish are too much for a 55 gallon tank.
I currently have 5 grown angelfish, 4 cory cats, 6 redeye tetras, and a betta. These angelfish produce a phenomenal amount of poop everyday. I vacuum out the tank every other day and would almost swear that someone else is feeding them too because there seem to be more poop than the food I give them.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #6
I think I'm going to go and get some seachem stability and see if that helps at all.
 
Dave125g
  • #7
Consider this... If your ammonia is 100 ppm a 50 % water change will only get it down to 50 ppm.
I would do as large a change as you can. 60-80% if that's possible.

Another way to get an accurate ammonia reading is to fill the test tube halfway with fresh ammonia free water and half tank water. Do the test and double the results.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #8
Consider this... If your ammonia is 100 ppm a 50 % water change will only get it down to 50 ppm.
I would do as large a change as you can. 60-80% if that's possible.

Another way to get an accurate ammonia reading is to fill the test tube halfway with fresh ammonia free water and half tank water. Do the test and double the results.
The most I can do without taking the fish out would be 60-70% I'm going to do this tomorrow as today I'm busy all day. Ill keep you guys posted thanks.
 
Lauradesu
  • #9
I'm kinda curious, I know ammo lock actually converts ammonia to ammonium so what you might be getting is a false positive with the apI water tester because it detects ammonium and ammonia. I heavily suggest you get the seachem total and free ammonia test because it's more accurate for testing ammonia and ammonium.
 
Dave125g
  • #10
The other thing that hasn't been asked yet is your ph. A lower ph is better for high ammonia levels as it is a bit safer for fish. Problem is if the ph is less then 7.0 is will take far longer to get this tank cycled.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
I'm kinda curious, I know ammo lock actually converts ammonia to ammonium so what you might be getting is a false positive with the apI water tester because it detects ammonium and ammonia. I heavily suggest you get the seachem total and free ammonia test because it's more accurate for testing ammonia and ammonium.
Awesome ill look into this. Thanks alot.

The other thing that hasn't been asked yet is your ph. A lower ph is better for high ammonia levels as it is a bit safer for fish. Problem is if the ph is less then 7.0 is will take far longer to get this tank cycled.
Ph is kept at 7.4
 
Dave125g
  • #12
Ok ph is good.
 
AngelTheGypsy
  • #13
Ammolock will immediately give you a reading of 8 ppm ammonia. It will also keep the ammonia bound so that the bacteria can’t use it.
Do enough water changes for ammonia to be under .5 ppm. Then stop using the ammolock.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
Ammolock will immediately give you a reading of 8 ppm ammonia. It will also keep the ammonia bound so that the bacteria can’t use it.
Do enough water changes for ammonia to be under .5 ppm. Then stop using the ammolock.
Iv been doing daily 30% water changes and yesterday I did two 50%.

Would you suggest a daily 50 or 60%?
 
AngelTheGypsy
  • #15
I would start with a 95% honestly. Get all that ammolock out of your tank. I’ve used it. It’s a gimmick/band aid.
Then base your daily water changes on your ammonia readings. If ammonia + nitrite is less than 1ppm, dose prime for volume and test again in 24 hours. If it’s above 1 ppm, do a 50% water change, dose prime for volume and test again in 24 hours. <if ammonia is 2ppm or above, do a bigger water change>
 
Jellibeen
  • #16
I’ve used zeolite crystals in addition to water changes to help remove ammonia from my tank. That is not a substitute for water changes, but it will help.
 
Jellibeen
  • #17
An important thing I forgot: salt releases any ammonia that has been caught in the zeolite crystals. Make sure to remove the crystals before adding any aquarium salts.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
I would start with a 95% honestly. Get all that ammolock out of your tank. I’ve used it. It’s a gimmick/band aid.
Then base your daily water changes on your ammonia readings. If ammonia + nitrite is less than 1ppm, dose prime for volume and test again in 24 hours. If it’s above 1 ppm, do a 50% water change, dose prime for volume and test again in 24 hours. <if ammonia is 2ppm or above, do a bigger water change>
Iv done three 90% water changes and daily 50%. My ammonia reading is the same idk what to do.
 
finnipper59
  • #19
Iv done three 90% water changes and daily 50%. My ammonia reading is the same idk what to do.
Angel the gypsy is right. There are other water conditioners that will detoxify the ammonia in your tank like AmQuel or Aqueon water conditioner. But Ammolock does it in such a way that the ammonia removing bacteria can't change the ammonia. Even the other brands don't remove ammonia, but the will detoxify it for the fish and still allow the Nitrosomas bacteria to break it down to nitrites.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #20
Angel the gypsy is right. There are other water conditioners that will detoxify the ammonia in your tank like AmQuel or Aqueon water conditioner. But Ammolock does it in such a way that the ammonia removing bacteria can't change the ammonia. Even the other brands don't remove ammonia, but the will detoxify it for the fish and still allow the Nitrosomas bacteria to break it down to nitrites.
So would you recommend just trying one of those two? I'm currently out of conditioner atm so I need more. I will not be useing ammolock again.
 
finnipper59
  • #21
I prefer the Aqueon water conditioner. If you put it in your container first, you will see an immediate foaming action as it's instantly removing the chlorine. It also breaks down chloramine, detoxifies heavy metals and ammonia. AmQuel will do the same but a little more expensive.
So would you recommend just trying one of those two? I'm currently out of conditioner atm so I need more. I will not be useing ammolock again.
 
jdhef
  • #22
Actually...Amquel+ does not remove heavy metals. So if you want to remove heavy metals you need to use Amquel+ along with their sister product NovAqua+. But if you do not have elevated ammonia, nitrite or nitrates levels you don't need to use Amquel+, you can just use NovAqua.
 
Dave125g
  • #23
Have you ever tested your tap water for ammonia? I would think after all those water changes your reading should be 0 or pretty close to it.
 
finnipper59
  • #24
Actually...Amquel+ does not remove heavy metals. So if you want to remove heavy metals you need to use Amquel+ along with their sister product NovAqua+. But if you do not have elevated ammonia, nitrite or nitrates levels you don't need to use Amquel+, you can just use NovAqua.
Yeah, I don't use AmQuel Plus, just the regular AmQuel which also detoxifies pheromones excreted by dominant fish. I prefer to use the Aqueon water conditioner anyway. But thank you for sharing.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #25
Have you ever tested your tap water for ammonia? I would think after all those water changes your reading should be 0 or pretty close to it.
Yea my tap water is fine.

I prefer the Aqueon water conditioner. If you put it in your container first, you will see an immediate foaming action as it's instantly removing the chlorine. It also breaks down chloramine, detoxifies heavy metals and ammonia. AmQuel will do the same but a little more expensive.
Is it safe for fish and plants?
 
finnipper59
  • #26
Yes. It is a somewhat broad spectrum type of antiparacitic that gets rid of ich, velvet, a few other paracites. The only thing its not the best for internal parasites like worms or flukes in which case you would move to API General Cure or PraziPro which are the same medication except General Cure adds salt.
Is it safe for fish and plants?
 
jdhef
  • #27
Yeah, I don't use AmQuel Plus, just the regular AmQuel which also detoxifies pheromones excreted by dominant fish. I prefer to use the Aqueon water conditioner anyway. But thank you for sharing.

Amquel+ also remove pheromones from the water, but neither Amquel or Amquel+ remove heavy metals.

I'm always happy to share...that's what we're here for.
 
finnipper59
  • #28
Amquel+ also remove pheromones from the water, but neither Amquel or Amquel+ remove heavy metals.
Ok...I guess a very powerful magnet would be called for with it's use. Thanks for the input so I won't make that mistake again. So I'll continue to recommend what I use which is Aqueon water conditioner and recommend AmQuel for anyone experiencing high levels of aggressive fish phermones. Congratulations on your effective research.
 
jdhef
  • #29
finnipper59 I don't think there is any reason for the sarcasm. We're all just here to help one another and share knowledge. But I would say, it is always best to give advice on things that have been effectively research, this way erroneous information is not given out.

I used to be an Amquel/NovAqua user. I researched it, but sadly I hadn't researched it enough because prolonged use of Amquel can cause people who have a low kh level to experience a pH crash. Sadly it happen to me a few years ago and wiped out almost my entire tank. I have since switched to Prime.
 
Dave125g
  • #30
Prime is what I use as well. The removal of heavy metals is important. Old hot water heaters and old pips(which many of us have) can put lead in the tank.
 
finnipper59
  • #31
Sorry...I guess I Should have put lol. It was meant to be funny and I really am greatful for saving me the embarrassment of the mistake, and more importantly, saving aquaric life from heavy metal poisoning. No harm was intended.
finnipper59 I don't think there is any reason for the sarcasm. We're all just here to help one another and share knowledge. But I would say, it is always best to give advice on things that have been effectively research, this way erroneous information is not given out.

I used to be an Amquel/NovAqua user. I researched it, but sadly I hadn't researched it enough because prolonged use of Amquel can cause people who have a low kh level to experience a pH crash. Sadly it happen to me a few years ago and wiped out almost my entire tank. I have since switched to Prime.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #32
Youve all be a huge help.
Ill be sure to keep you all posted. I think I'm going to give aqueon a try and if that doesn't help I'm going to do a 100%water change and try the prime.
 
Dave125g
  • #33
Youve all be a huge help.
Ill be sure to keep you all posted. I think I'm going to give aqueon a try and if that doesn't help I'm going to do a 100%water change and try the prime.
What is your current peramiters? Just curious, it's been a while since you posted them.
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #34
What is your current peramiters? Just curious, it's been a while since you posted them.
Ammonia is still 8.0
Nitrite is .40 ppm
Nitrates 0.0ppm
 
AngelTheGypsy
  • #35
This is baffling me. You have stopped using the ammolock entirely, correct? And you still have live fish? (Honestly a true 8ppm would kill everything in hours)

Iv done three 90% water changes and daily 50%. My ammonia reading is the same idk what to do.



When you did these water changes did you continue to use the ammolock? If so, the ammolock is probably why. If not, there’s something else somewhere, and I don’t want to keep blaming ammolock if that’s the case.
 
finnipper59
  • #36
Sorry to double post but needed to quote.

When you did these water changes did you continue to use the ammolock? If so, the ammolock is probably why. If not, there’s something else somewhere, and I don’t want to keep blaming ammolock if that’s the case.
What kind of substrate is in the tank...sand/gravel...where did it come from?
 
Dave125g
  • #37
8ppm is really high. I'm glad to see some nitrites at least. That means your starting to cycle. Are you using any other chemicals in this tank?
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #38
I have not used ammo lock in atleast ten days.

8ppm is really high. I'm glad to see some nitrites at least. That means your starting to cycle. Are you using any other chemicals in this tank?
I did dose some flourish excel for my two anubias and my java
That's it.
 
AngelTheGypsy
  • #39
So ph is 7.4, ammonia is 8 nitrite is .5 and nitrate is 0. You have 22 live fish in a 60 gallon tank. You have done about 300% worth of water changes and no ammo lock. You have tested your tap and it has 0 ammonia, right?
What water conditioner are you using currently? What decorations are in the tank? What filter are you using and what are you doing filter maintenance wise? What temperature is the tank? How are the fish acting? Are they swimming normally, eating well, etc?
 
Ronoc94
  • Thread Starter
  • #40
So ph is 7.4, ammonia is 8 nitrite is .5 and nitrate is 0. You have 22 live fish in a 60 gallon tank. You have done about 300% worth of water changes and no ammo lock. You have tested your tap and it has 0 ammonia, right?
What water conditioner are you using currently? What decorations are in the tank? What filter are you using and what are you doing filter maintenance wise? What temperature is the tank? How are the fish acting? Are they swimming normally, eating well, etc?
My tap water has no or little to none ammonia. I'm currently using big als water conditioner for my water changes. Its a fluval U4 filter. I take out my filter and rinse everything through hot water atleast once a week. The tank is kept at 79-80. All of my fish are eating and doing fine, they all eat within 3 seconds of me dropping food.

I also have two bubblers
3 rocks
2 anubias
1 java fern
a two piece broken ship
And a clay cichilid hutt.
 

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