Algae Id On Several Plants Needed

ShamFish97

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Hello all,

. I'm very new to planted tanks, and have been doing my best to maintain the water parameters as of lately.

I've been battling to get my cycle on. Ammonia is converted daily to nitrite, and when I do tests it normally is 0 or slightly above. Nitrates are always 20-80ppm or higher, and I've been doing 50 PWCs every other day sometimes daily to keep things moving. I have a total of 105 Watts between my two Fluval 3.0 lights. They're on around 7am and off around 9pm. I'm using Black Diamond Blasting Sand as substrate, and I've been adding prime with water changes.
 

kallililly1973

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I would start with cutting your light time down. 7am-9pm is a very long time. I would go with noon to 9 the most. But while your trying to get rid of the algae you may want to do a 2-3 day blackout or possibly cut them down to about 4-5 hours.
 

GlennO

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Are you injecting CO2? If not I agree that lighting should be cut drastically, especially if you are running them at full intensity. Are you dosing ferts or glut? I can see various algae types including staghorn which can be persistent stuff. Bear with it, the first 12 months with a planted tank is usually the hardest, battling algae until you get the right balance of nutrients and lighting.
 
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ShamFish97

ShamFish97

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GlennO said:
Are you injecting CO2? If not I agree that lighting should be cut drastically, especially if you are running them at full intensity. Are you dosing ferts or glut? I can see various algae types including staghorn which can be persistent stuff. Bear with it, the first 12 months with a planted tank is usually the hardest, battling algae until you get the right balance of nutrients and lighting.
I am not injecting CO2. I was using a mix of flourish, but stopped that. I tried easy green for a while, and then realized my nitrates were high enough that I didnt need to be dosing... Considering picking up some SAE's to help...
 

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Yes with those nitrate levels I would not be dosing macro fertilisers. You could consider dosing micro (no nitrate/phosphate) fertilisers and glutaraldehyde to benefit plants and inhibit algae. Maybe some root tabs too. Getting your fast growing plants like the Wisteria and Hornwort healthy and growing quickly will also help soak up nitrates. Any idea why your nitrates are high even with those water changes? The tank doesn't look to be heavily stocked, maybe check your feeding regime?
 
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ShamFish97

ShamFish97

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GlennO said:
Yes with those nitrate levels I would not be dosing macro fertilisers. You could consider dosing micro (no nitrate/phosphate) fertilisers and glutaraldehyde to benefit plants and inhibit algae. Maybe some root tabs too. Getting your fast growing plants like the Wisteria and Hornwort healthy and growing quickly will also help soak up nitrates. Any idea why your nitrates are high even with those water changes? The tank doesn't look to be heavily stocked, maybe check your feeding regime?
I feed a lot of powdered food for the fry and algae flakes. I could see that causing issues in retrospect

Vishaquatics (Koiman) any tips? Can I use some of the stuff you sent me for this?
 

GlennO

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ShamFish97 said:
I feed a lot of powdered food for the fry and algae flakes. I could see that causing issues in retrospect
Yes that may well be the cause.

It requires constant monitoring for me to control nuisance algae in my low tech (no CO2 injection) planted tank. The best way I have found is to limit lighting to the minimum that the plants need (around 8 hours), maintain a balance of macro nutrients (ideal ratio is 10 parts nitrate to 1 part phosphorous to 20 parts potassium) and regularly add glutaraldehyde (e.g.Excel) with spot dosing when and where necessary.

The sticky thread at the top of this forum page provides very good similar advice in more detail.
 

Vishaquatics

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ShamFish97 said:
Vishaquatics (Koiman) any tips? Can I use some of the stuff you sent me for this?
Yes, I’d recommend cutting the light like others have mentioned. Maybe even a split photoperiod (4 hours on 3 off 4 on). You can also try dosing excel to suppress algae growth, but keep in mind that it doesn’t solve the root issue of a lack of CO2
 
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ShamFish97

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Vishaquatics (Koiman) said:
Yes, I’d recommend cutting the light like others have mentioned. Maybe even a split photoperiod (4 hours on 3 off 4 on). You can also try dosing excel to suppress algae growth, but keep in mind that it doesn’t solve the root issue of a lack of CO2
Should I get a CO2 system for my 10 gallon for like $40 at petco and use the dry ferts you sent me until I can set up a CO2 system next month? I have 3/4 of a bottle of Excel left.


Lighting:
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ShamFish97

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Vishaquatics (Koiman) said:
Sure, I think that’s a good idea
Okay, I'm gonna see If I can make that happen. I may just use the dry ferts you sent with my 10g. If not, do I have enough dry ferts to use between both the 10 gallon and the 55g? Or should I use what I have for chemical ferts yet on my 55? I have: Excel, Flourish, Phosphorous, Nitrogen, and easy green all in one. I do want to have a CO2 system set up on this 55 gallon at some point, hoping my plants can handle waiting until next month for that. I have to pick up some measuring spoons tomorrow, I haven't added any dry ferts to my 10 gallon yet. As for the 55, I adjusted the lighting on my two light bars, let me know what you think:


 

Vishaquatics

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It’s likely only enough ferts to use on the 10 gallon alone.

The light seems cool! I’ve never had a light that goes through sunrise and sunset so that’s pretty cool
 
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ShamFish97

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Vishaquatics (Koiman) said:
It’s likely only enough ferts to use on the 10 gallon alone.

The light seems cool! I’ve never had a light that goes through sunrise and sunset so that’s pretty cool
yeah that was one of the main selling points for me, with my work schedule I need something to turn lights on/off.
 

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ShamFish97 said:
Here's an update on my tank.
Should I get a CO2 system for my 10 gallon for like $40 at petco and use the dry ferts you sent me until I can set up a CO2 system next month? I have 3/4 of a bottle of Excel left.


Lighting:
nc_oc=AQkE5UoI-ozG2yXBcTGtVZkxz7JVr3i7iAYm4Z3lix4Dd2UCpXEwO9BLS8gYskFWmLw&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.jpg
Looks like a fluval 3.0 if that is the case, there is a way to make it do a split photo period. You use a timer on the outlet and set the light to turn on at 1201 am and then off 4 hours later. As long as the light isn't connected to your phone, when it comes back on after a power outage, it thinks its midnight. This way you can trick it multiple times a day into thinking its 1200am when the timer gives it power again.
 

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