Air Pump for CO2 or nothing at all while I wait for my DIY Kit to arrive?

I have a new planted tank set up since last night. The plants arrived after being shipped for 3 days and I, therefore, kept the light on for them the whole night. I also turned on my air pump because I believe that it would add some CO2 to the system, more than what enters through the surface without the pump turned on.

If I did have CO2 injection, it makes total sense that the air pump would help create an equilibrium with the atmosphere and the CO2 concentration in my water would reduce to form an equilibrium, but when I only have the light and my plants without added CO2 (My DIY kit arrives only the mid of next week) it does make sense for me to use the air pump to add CO2 to the system, right? Since the pump would help balance the system with the room and the CO2 in the water would be decreasing as the plants use it up.

This makes sense to me, but I keep reading that air pumps are a bad idea for when the lights are on as it decreases C02 concentration, just needed a second (or multiple) opinion(s) on this.

 

Having the air pump on does decrease the amount of CO2 in the water. The water agitation caused by the bubbles results in CO2 loss at the water's surface. I would recommend leaving the air pump off when the lights are on -- this recommendation might change depending on if you have fish in the tank. I have had low and high tech planted tanks. In my high tech setup, CO2 is on an hour before lights on and turns off 30 minutes before lights off and my sponge filter runs overnight to oxygenate the tank.

Another example of this water agitation principle -- if you have a CO2 setup and you use a CO2 diffuser versus a reactor, you are losing CO2. A diffuser creates little bubbles but some of these still go to the surface and that CO2 is 'lost'. With an inline CO2 reactor, you lose a lot less CO2.

TLDR -- air pump (water agitation) = CO2 loss

**Edit -- I also would not leave your lights on 24/7, plants have their own circadian rhythm and need those 'dark' hours. You are also inviting a host other problems with nutrients. Higher tech planted setups are a fine balance of fertilizers, lights, and CO2.

 

If the dissolved CO2 in your water is less than it would be at equilibrium, then yes the air pump will increase CO2 to the equilibrium point. In practice most people don't do this and it doesn't seem to have negative effects on low tech tanks, but it's up to you

 

Having the air pump on does decrease the amount of CO2 in the water. The water agitation caused by the bubbles results in CO2 loss at the water's surface. I would recommend leaving the air pump off when the lights are on -- this recommendation might change depending on if you have fish in the tank. I have had low and high tech planted tanks. In my high tech setup, CO2 is on an hour before lights on and turns off 30 minutes before lights off and my sponge filter runs overnight to oxygenate the tank.

Another example of this water agitation principle -- if you have a CO2 setup and you use a CO2 diffuser versus a reactor, you are losing CO2. A diffuser creates little bubbles but some of these still go to the surface and that CO2 is 'lost'. With an inline CO2 reactor, you lose a lot less CO2.

TLDR -- air pump (water agitation) = CO2 loss

**Edit -- I also would not leave your lights on 24/7, plants have their own circadian rhythm and need those 'dark' hours. You are also inviting a host other problems with nutrients. Higher tech planted setups are a fine balance of fertilizers, lights, and CO2.

Thanks for the response, I agree about the diffuser vs the inline reactor. Also, I'm in no way keeping the light on overnight, from tonight onwards. I only did it the first night because the plants had 3 days of nights I did wonder how much of a night they need though. I'm going to assume a regular 8 - 10 hour night should do them good.

 

If the dissolved CO2 in your water is less than it would be at equilibrium, then yes the air pump will increase CO2 to the equilibrium point. In practice most people don't do this and it doesn't seem to have negative effects on low tech tanks, but it's up to you

Yup, this is what I expected. I am trying to figure out a balance where my plants have at least mediocre CO2 levels until the DIY kit arrives so that I do not begin harboring algae, but I want to keep the lights on for around 8 hours a day nonetheless because I want the plants to begin growing and catching root I think I will continue to keep the air pump on when the lights are on but of course, only until the diffuser is set up. Thanks for the reply

 

Yup, this is what I expected. I am trying to figure out a balance where my plants have at least mediocre CO2 levels until the DIY kit arrives so that I do not begin harboring algae, but I want to keep the lights on for around 8 hours a day nonetheless because I want the plants to begin growing and catching root I think I will continue to keep the air pump on when the lights are on but of course, only until the diffuser is set up. Thanks for the reply

Leaving your lights on for longer periods of time (depending on the strength of your lighting) will be the biggest factor in algae growth. Following that, having dead plant material in the tank will be your next biggest. When you start injecting CO2, you will also want a plan for how to fertilize your plants as sufficient CO2/lighting with a lack of nutrients will result in algae. I have made every mistake over the years with planted aquariums so take it from a 'failure pro'.

Depending on the strength of the lights, I would leave them on for 6-8 hours/day now and when your DIY CO2 kit arrives. Mark makes a good point about equilibrium but once your DIY kit arrives, I would only leave the air pump on when lights are off to oxygenate the tank.

 

Leaving your lights on for longer periods of time (depending on the strength of your lighting) will be the biggest factor in algae growth. Following that, having dead plant material in the tank will be your next biggest. When you start injecting CO2, you will also want a plan for how to fertilize your plants as sufficient CO2/lighting with a lack of nutrients will result in algae. I have made every mistake over the years with planted aquariums so take it from a 'failure pro'.

Depending on the strength of the lights, I would leave them on for 6-8 hours/day now and when your DIY CO2 kit arrives. Mark makes a good point about equilibrium but once your DIY kit arrives, I would only leave the air pump on when lights are off to oxygenate the tank.

Yes, I agree. I kind of spoke about equilibrium in my OP and was seeking confirmation from someone else. When I have a CO2 diffuser set up I definitely will not keep the air pump on at the same time. If I do it will be during the nights as you say.

I'm currently reading up on the fertilization forum stickies to try and figure out what kind of fertilization regime I should use.

I'm currently using a 14W LED light (white, blue and red) and my tank is a 54 liter (12 US gallons), 60 X 30 cm surface area (2 X 1 foot). I have got 80% plant coverage. Is there a way that you guys determine how much light your plants need, roughly of course as it will depend on the kinds you've got, etc. Calculations if any would be based on sufficient nutrient and CO2 access I'm guessing.

I have a few dead leaves on the base which I have left to help with the build up of the bacteria for my nitrogen cycle I now think this is a mistake.

 

Yes, I agree. I kind of spoke about equilibrium in my OP and was seeking confirmation from someone else. When I have a CO2 diffuser set up I definitely will not keep the air pump on at the same time. If I do it will be during the nights as you say.

I'm currently reading up on the fertilization forum stickies to try and figure out what kind of fertilization regime I should use.

I'm currently using a 14W LED light (white, blue and red) and my tank is a 54 liter (12 US gallons), 60 X 30 cm surface area (2 X 1 foot). I have got 80% plant coverage. Is there a way that you guys determine how much light your plants need, roughly of course as it will depend on the kinds you've got, etc. Calculations if any would be based on sufficient nutrient and CO2 access I'm guessing.

I have a few dead leaves on the base which I have left to help with the build up of the bacteria for my nitrogen cycle I now think this is a mistake.

That was my mistake, I think I misunderstood the question in the original post. So right on with air pump at night only! I have a sponge filter so it produces bubbles when it’s on and because of that, I only keep it on at night. I don’t need it as I have an FX6 canister but I like having it in case I need to set up a tank in an emergency and this way I have a usable, cycled sponge filter and it has the added bonus of oxygenating the tank at night (even though I don’t need it)!

Fertilization is a tricky subject. I ended up getting a tremendous amount of help from other hobbyists in the area that I live. I use black blasting sand as a substrate so it’s not a ‘nice’ planting substrate but it was cheap and I like how it looks. Plus, using ADA soil on a 120G would have been obscenely expensive. I add root tabs throughout my substrate every 6 months or so. And then I dose fertilizers via the ‘estimate index’ (EI) method. I purchase my fertilizers from green leaf aquatics and I LOVE them. They come with instructions based on the size of your tank and overtime, you can play around some with the dosages. I had a lot of issues with green spot algae and even green water but once I found a balance for my lighting, CO2, and ferts, it’s been great.

I have never done calculations but I selected my lights based on other planted tank reviewers conducting PAR analyses on the lights at different depths. I have an incredibly tall tank so I needed a light that could penetrate the bottom of the tank to be able to grow carpet and other smaller, high light demanding plants. There are many lights out there better than what I have (beamswork DA FSPEC) but for the price they are hard to beat. You can purchase or rent a PAR meter to determine the PAR of your light at the bottom of your tank if you want to. It’s basically a probe that sits at the bottom and analyzes the amount of light that reaches wherever the probe sits.

Dead leaves are tricky. They can allow for algae blooms. I would just add small amounts of fish food (too much can also cause algae) or, add pure ammonia. That’s what I did with my first tank, I just added pure ammonia and waited until I began to see nitrites and nitrates. There should be instructions out there on how to cycle a tank with pure ammonia. Since then, I have just put a new filter on an old tank about 1 week before setting up a new tank and it's magically cycled!

 

That was my mistake, I think I misunderstood the question in the original post. So right on with air pump at night only! I have a sponge filter so it produces bubbles when it’s on and because of that, I only keep it on at night. I don’t need it as I have an FX6 canister but I like having it in case I need to set up a tank in an emergency and this way I have a usable, cycled sponge filter and it has the added bonus of oxygenating the tank at night (even though I don’t need it)!

I decided to go with a filterless setup. I designed my own substrate to help aid this. I'm not against having a filter, I will watch the progress and if needed I'd get myself one.

Fertilization is a tricky subject. I ended up getting a tremendous amount of help from other hobbyists in the area that I live. I use black blasting sand as a substrate so it’s not a ‘nice’ planting substrate but it was cheap and I like how it looks. Plus, using ADA soil on a 120G would have been obscenely expensive. I add root tabs throughout my substrate every 6 months or so. And then I dose fertilizers via the ‘estimate index’ (EI) method. I purchase my fertilizers from green leaf aquatics and I LOVE them. They come with instructions based on the size of your tank and overtime, you can play around some with the dosages. I had a lot of issues with green spot algae and even green water but once I found a balance for my lighting, CO2, and ferts, it’s been great.

I've not yet had the time to read much on fertilization, I plan on getting through to it this weekend and ordering something by Sunday. Thanks for the EI method name, I'll have to look it up. I currently live in Germany and I'm not sure if we get the same brands here, I'll have to check out some german forums on the topic, I guess.

I have never done calculations but I selected my lights based on other planted tank reviewers conducting PAR analyses on the lights at different depths. I have an incredibly tall tank so I needed a light that could penetrate the bottom of the tank to be able to grow carpet and other smaller, high light demanding plants. There are many lights out there better than what I have (beamswork DA FSPEC) but for the price they are hard to beat. You can purchase or rent a PAR meter to determine the PAR of your light at the bottom of your tank if you want to. It’s basically a probe that sits at the bottom and analyzes the amount of light that reaches wherever the probe sits.

Instead of using a light sensor, I decided to test this out with my bonsai dwarf hair grass. If it grows tall it would mean it's not getting sufficient light down there.

Dead leaves are tricky. They can allow for algae blooms. I would just add small amounts of fish food (too much can also cause algae) or, add pure ammonia. That’s what I did with my first tank, I just added pure ammonia and waited until I began to see nitrites and nitrates. There should be instructions out there on how to cycle a tank with pure ammonia. Since then, I have just put a new filter on an old tank about 1 week before setting up a new tank and it's magically cycled!

I did read up guides on cycling with pure ammonia, I just did not want to order something that I would not use a lot of. Using some fish food granules was another option I read about too, I'll look into that or other ways of adding ammonia.

Thanks for all your help. I noticed a small worm in my aquarium today, it was eating on some dead leaf. Since I planted them just 36 hours earlier, I am pretty sure this came along with the plant cuttings. I'm not going to try and get rid of it because I get some guppies on Wednesday already, from a friend who is moving. They'd feast on it and any others that show up.

 

Nice, I had a filterless aquaponics setup for a while. It was a 5g and only a single betta but it turned out really nice. It was based off of the YouTuber Foo the Flowerhorn’s videos (Check his videos out, so peaceful)!

Yeah, I’m not sure if Green Leaf ships internationally. Super cool that you’re in Germany. Meine Familie ist aus Deutschland und wohnt noch gerade außerhalb Friedberg (Die sind in Florstadt). Meine Mama war in Deutschland geboren und ist vor der Uni zur US gezogen. Sie spricht immer noch nur deutsch mit mir und ich war auf einer deutschen Schule bis zur zweiten Klasse — offensichtlich ist mein Deutsch geil mit wie gut es ist

Any-who — good plan with the hair grass, I never tested the PAR of my lights and was just told they’re good and then played around with what I can grow.

Makes total sense that you don’t want to buy ammonia if you’ll only use it once. I was able to buy it at a local store for $3 years ago so it just worked well. If you want to cycle the tank quick with fish on the way, you can buy a ‘bio shot’ like Tetra safe start. I’m not sure on the equivalents available in Germany, my family is lame and doesn’t keep fish.

Plants almost always come with hitchhikers. Usually they’re nothing to worry about and your fish will take care of them. Others, like Malaysian trumpet snails (a common hitchhiker over here) will just disappear into the substrate unless you over feed; then you have a tank of 5 million tiny snails (I’ve been there, what a mistake). There are some hydrogen peroxide bath recipes/protocols that people use to make sure the plants are free of anything but I’ve never used them so I cannot attest to that.

 

Nice, I had a filterless aquaponics setup for a while. It was a 5g and only a single betta but it turned out really nice. It was based off of the YouTuber Foo the Flowerhorn’s videos (Check his videos out, so peaceful)!

Yeah, I’m not sure if Green Leaf ships internationally. Super cool that you’re in Germany. Meine Familie ist aus Deutschland und wohnt noch gerade außerhalb Friedberg (Die sind in Florstadt). Meine Mama war in Deutschland geboren und ist vor der Uni zur US gezogen. Sie spricht immer noch nur deutsch mit mir und ich war auf einer deutschen Schule bis zur zweiten Klasse — offensichtlich ist mein Deutsch geil mit wie gut es ist

Any-who — good plan with the hair grass, I never tested the PAR of my lights and was just told they’re good and then played around with what I can grow.

Makes total sense that you don’t want to buy ammonia if you’ll only use it once. I was able to buy it at a local store for $3 years ago so it just worked well. If you want to cycle the tank quick with fish on the way, you can buy a ‘bio shot’ like Tetra safe start. I’m not sure on the equivalents available in Germany, my family is lame and doesn’t keep fish.

Plants almost always come with hitchhikers. Usually they’re nothing to worry about and your fish will take care of them. Others, like Malaysian trumpet snails (a common hitchhiker over here) will just disappear into the substrate unless you over feed; then you have a tank of 5 million tiny snails (I’ve been there, what a mistake). There are some hydrogen peroxide bath recipes/protocols that people use to make sure the plants are free of anything but I’ve never used them so I cannot attest to that.

I have been following Foo the Flowerhorn on Youtube for almost the entire 2 years he's been there. I've watched some of his stuff multiple times and he is the reason I actually thought about the whole planted aquarium + shrimp thing

Dein Deutsch ist wirklich gut, auf jeden Fall besser als meins Ich bin Indier und kam nach Deutschland zur Uni

I was reading up the fertilization sticky and I'd just buy the chemicals needed for the EI method:
1. Potassium nitrate (KNO3)
2. Monopotassium phosphate (KH2PO4)
3. Some iron-containing mico mix

You do get tetra safe start here, just checked. Haha, my family doesn't either, I did have some guppies and lots of floating plants in a large basic growing up when I was at uni back home. I'm going to surprise them with some pics later.

There are quite a few forums for planted tanks, etc. in Germany, but I'm not comfortable reading through so much German even though I understand it as it seems more of a task than something interesting. I only venture out there to read something if I really can't find an English alternative.

 

I have been following Foo the Flowerhorn on Youtube for almost the entire 2 years he's been there. I've watched some of his stuff multiple times and he is the reason I actually thought about the whole planted aquarium + shrimp thing

Dein Deutsch ist wirklich gut, auf jeden Fall besser als meins Ich bin Indier und kam nach Deutschland zur Uni

I was reading up the fertilization sticky and I'd just buy the chemicals needed for the EI method:
1. Potassium nitrate (KNO3)
2. Monopotassium phosphate (KH2PO4)
3. Some iron-containing mico mix

You do get tetra safe start here, just checked. Haha, my family doesn't either, I did have some guppies and lots of floating plants in a large basic growing up when I was at uni back home. I'm going to surprise them with some pics later.

There are quite a few forums for planted tanks, etc. in Germany, but I'm not comfortable reading through so much German even though I understand it as it seems more of a task than something interesting. I only venture out there to read something if I really can't find an English alternative.

His tanks are GORGEOUS, I have been watching his stuff for years. I love all of the innovative DIY stuff he does, so cool!

Vielen dank! Ja die Uni ist sehr gut da, ich hab es mir überlagt da es so teuer in der US ist aber ich hab zum gluck ein Stipendium bekommen. Ich bin danach weiter für ein PhD und zur Tierarzt schule -- Tierarzt schule ist sehr teuer hier aber mindestens ist das PhD kostenlos; wehre vielleicht doch besser wenn ich nach Deutschland wehre!

Yup, you could totally just buy the chemicals and dose them! I have found it super easy. The only chemical I use that isn't listed is potassium sulfate (K2SO4). Looking at GLA's website, you can get them in Germany but shipping is stupid expensive. Here is their link, in the top left corner you can change the currency, at least you can see the 'complete set' and there is a dosing chart that is nice to use. For my 120g tank, this fertilizer pack lasts for a couple months (and I dose every day as instructed) so for a smaller tank it would last for years.

Tetra safe start is nice if you want to get a cycle going quickly so you don't risk harming the fish. I used it when once of my tanks went through a mini cycle, saved me from losing anyone. My dad actually got me into fish when I was little but he passed away many years ago now. He had a huge 150g tank built into the wall -- sump system, CO2, all live plants -- incredible tank. Because I was so young when he passed, I didn't really get into keeping fish until about 5 years after when I was in high school. My mom isn't a fish keeper but I always send her pictures and show her the tanks when I video call her, it's fun and planted tanks are just a whole different level of cool!

I totally understand what you mean. That was part of why I chose to go to school here instead of Germany. I can speak and understand German fluently since I was raised speaking it but reading/writing, is different. I can read it (my mother still only texts/emails me in German) but I rely heavily on my computer and phone to correct my horrendous spelling/grammar. With my intentions of going into the medical/research fields, I was always so worried I would always be trying to catch up on understanding technical terminology in German. Even now when I fly to Germany to visit family, you can't 'tell' I don't live there at first because I don't have an accent but, my friends and family will note that I use dated lingo from a couple years ago (so like whatever the popular lingo was when I last visited).

 

His tanks are GORGEOUS, I have been watching his stuff for years. I love all of the innovative DIY stuff he does, so cool!

Vielen dank! Ja die Uni ist sehr gut da, ich hab es mir überlagt da es so teuer in der US ist aber ich hab zum gluck ein Stipendium bekommen. Ich bin danach weiter für ein PhD und zur Tierarzt schule -- Tierarzt schule ist sehr teuer hier aber mindestens ist das PhD kostenlos; wehre vielleicht doch besser wenn ich nach Deutschland wehre!

Yup, you could totally just buy the chemicals and dose them! I have found it super easy. The only chemical I use that isn't listed is potassium sulfate (K2SO4). Looking at GLA's website, you can get them in Germany but shipping is stupid expensive. Here is their link, in the top left corner you can change the currency, at least you can see the 'complete set' and there is a dosing chart that is nice to use. For my 120g tank, this fertilizer pack lasts for a couple months (and I dose every day as instructed) so for a smaller tank it would last for years.

Tetra safe start is nice if you want to get a cycle going quickly so you don't risk harming the fish. I used it when once of my tanks went through a mini cycle, saved me from losing anyone. My dad actually got me into fish when I was little but he passed away many years ago now. He had a huge 150g tank built into the wall -- sump system, CO2, all live plants -- incredible tank. Because I was so young when he passed, I didn't really get into keeping fish until about 5 years after when I was in high school. My mom isn't a fish keeper but I always send her pictures and show her the tanks when I video call her, it's fun and planted tanks are just a whole different level of cool!

I totally understand what you mean. That was part of why I chose to go to school here instead of Germany. I can speak and understand German fluently since I was raised speaking it but reading/writing, is different. I can read it (my mother still only texts/emails me in German) but I rely heavily on my computer and phone to correct my horrendous spelling/grammar. With my intentions of going into the medical/research fields, I was always so worried I would always be trying to catch up on understanding technical terminology in German. Even now when I fly to Germany to visit family, you can't 'tell' I don't live there at first because I don't have an accent but, my friends and family will note that I use dated lingo from a couple years ago (so like whatever the popular lingo was when I last visited).

Haha, that was a fun read about the dated lingo, etc. I'm currently working on my Ph.D in wind turbine aerodynamics. Good luck with yours and it's great that you've got a stipend. Education in the US is overpriced to be honest. The government should be funding unis like in most of the developed and even third world countries because it is people from these places that build up a country (educated folk).

I do know of many people, too, both my parents love the pics I send. I can't wait for my tank to be all set up to enjoy it. I don't even have fish in it yet but I can stare at the plants for ages.

Thanks for the recommendation on tetra safe start. About potassium sulphate, I really don't mind adding it, but the thread I read said it was optional and it makes sense too because potassium is present in potassium nitrate already. "Dosing K2SO4 is optional, as both KNO3 and KH2PO4 will generally supply adequate amounts of potassium when dosed according to recommended quantities for nitrate and phosphate. " - A Beginner's Guide To Fertilisers | 363013

Out of curiosity, when it comes to the ferts do you add a little of all each day (based on what you need) or do you add them in separately (macros on one day and micros on the other).

 

Haha, that was a fun read about the dated lingo, etc. I'm currently working on my Ph.D in wind turbine aerodynamics. Good luck with yours and it's great that you've got a stipend. Education in the US is overpriced to be honest. The government should be funding unis like in most of the developed and even third world countries because it is people from these places that build up a country (educated folk).

I do know of many people, too, both my parents love the pics I send. I can't wait for my tank to be all set up to enjoy it. I don't even have fish in it yet but I can stare at the plants for ages.

Thanks for the recommendation on tetra safe start. About potassium sulphate, I really don't mind adding it, but the thread I read said it was optional and it makes sense too because potassium is present in potassium nitrate already. "Dosing K2SO4 is optional, as both KNO3 and KH2PO4 will generally supply adequate amounts of potassium when dosed according to recommended quantities for nitrate and phosphate. " - A Beginner's Guide To Fertilisers | 363013

Out of curiosity, when it comes to the ferts do you add a little of all each day (based on what you need) or do you add them in separately (macros on one day and micros on the other).

I agree with absolutely everything you are saying. I am a DVM PhD student and I just finished year 3 out of ~8. I had to take out loans for 2.5 years of the DVM program but the PhD and the remaining part of the DVM is paid for. Still, those 2.5 years have me sitting at $200,000 in loans; it's horrible. My research is in cancer immunotherapies, something I would argue is important yet the higher education system here is awful, so so sad.

For a while, I started loving the plants more than the fish! I will say I love them both equally, I keep a lot of unique varieties of angelfish. I love seeing how they interact with the plants and seem to 'enjoy' the tank more than they would a non-planted setup. It's fun seeing my kubotia loaches or RN tetras swim through tall plants. Even seeing my corys sifting through sand under the plants. It's fun, I love it! I am thinking about converting my smaller tank to a nano saltwater setup but we will see if that happens!

Yeah, the potassium sulfate is definitely optional. I use both because I will occasionally 'starve' my plants in my small tank of potassium nitrate. There are some red plants (and I LOVE red plants) that will only turn incredibly bright when grown with low nitrates. The picture below is an example of the difference nitrates can make in the plant color. This is not true for all red plants but there are a good number of red plants that only turn super red with low nitrates. For adding my fertilizers, I dose the macros on one day, all together (KNO3, K2SO4, KH2PO4) and then the next day I dose my micros (iron). Then on day 7, I do my water change to 'reset' everything.

 

I agree with absolutely everything you are saying. I am a DVM PhD student and I just finished year 3 out of ~8. I had to take out loans for 2.5 years of the DVM program but the PhD and the remaining part of the DVM is paid for. Still, those 2.5 years have me sitting at $200,000 in loans; it's horrible. My research is in cancer immunotherapies, something I would argue is important yet the higher education system here is awful, so so sad.

For a while, I started loving the plants more than the fish! I will say I love them both equally, I keep a lot of unique varieties of angelfish. I love seeing how they interact with the plants and seem to 'enjoy' the tank more than they would a non-planted setup. It's fun seeing my kubotia loaches or RN tetras swim through tall plants. Even seeing my corys sifting through sand under the plants. It's fun, I love it! I am thinking about converting my smaller tank to a nano saltwater setup but we will see if that happens!

Yeah, the potassium sulfate is definitely optional. I use both because I will occasionally 'starve' my plants in my small tank of potassium nitrate. There are some red plants (and I LOVE red plants) that will only turn incredibly bright when grown with low nitrates. The picture below is an example of the difference nitrates can make in the plant color. This is not true for all red plants but there are a good number of red plants that only turn super red with low nitrates. For adding my fertilizers, I dose the macros on one day, all together (KNO3, K2SO4, KH2PO4) and then the next day I dose my micros (iron). Then on day 7, I do my water change to 'reset' everything.

View attachment 696829

3/8 and with that much debt, that's just plain crazy. Thankfully you'd be paid going forward. Research on cancer immunotheraphies sounds awesome.

I had to look up kubotai loaches, but they look darn good. I was thinking of getting 2 corys myself, sometime in the future once things settle down.

I'm glad I asked you about the ferts. I love red plants too and I have the Alternanthera Reineckii 'mini' on one side that I want to grow out as the focal point and another which I do not know the name of yet that has some red pigmentation (got it as a bunch of 10 different plants from a seller on amazon). I'm definitely going to get myself potassium sulphate, I'd like to starve them off some nitrates if that helps them get red. I'll have to do some reading on how to best do this, etc.

 

I am thinking about converting my smaller tank to a nano saltwater setup but we will see if that happens!

If you get around to that good luck That is something I would want to try one day, but only when I have settled down in a place and don't move to a new city every other year.

 

3/8 and with that much debt, that's just plain crazy. Thankfully you'd be paid going forward. Research on cancer immunotheraphies sounds awesome.

I had to look up kubotai loaches, but they look darn good. I was thinking of getting 2 corys myself, sometime in the future once things settle down.

I'm glad I asked you about the ferts. I love red plants too and I have the Alternanthera Reineckii 'mini' on one side that I want to grow out as the focal point and another which I do not know the name of yet that has some red pigmentation (got it as a bunch of 10 different plants from a seller on amazon). I'm definitely going to get myself potassium sulphate, I'd like to starve them off some nitrates if that helps them get red. I'll have to do some reading on how to best do this, etc.

Yeah, it is absolutely crazy haha

I love the kubotia loaches, they're wonderful. Beautiful, great in a community tank, and don't get too big compared to other loaches! I have paleatus corys, they're really neat but I have had many different varieties over the years.

Yeah, it was something I didn't realize until I bought a variety of red plants locally and they went from bright red to green (pic below of the change). They came from a local hobbyist so he explained it all to me. I have since read more about it on the internet but its crazy how a single nutrient can change the color of a plant so much. They still need some nitrates but very low. My local hobbyists also advised me to check my tap water phosphate levels -- I really should just get an RO water setup but I don't have anywhere I can put it without it being an eyesore. AR 'mini' is one of the plants that stayed red for me in both higher and low nitrates! It's actually in the picture below.

Yeah, I have always loved the ocean and I scuba dive at least twice a year (at least before SARS-CoV2) but I have always been too scared to try saltwater! I figured I have both the 17G and a 55G sitting unused that once I get the right supplies, I could give it a go but we will see if that actually happens. I would want to grow all kinds of live coral!

 

Yeah, it is absolutely crazy haha

I love the kubotia loaches, they're wonderful. Beautiful, great in a community tank, and don't get too big compared to other loaches! I have paleatus corys, they're really neat but I have had many different varieties over the years.

Yeah, it was something I didn't realize until I bought a variety of red plants locally and they went from bright red to green (pic below of the change). They came from a local hobbyist so he explained it all to me. I have since read more about it on the internet but its crazy how a single nutrient can change the color of a plant so much. They still need some nitrates but very low. My local hobbyists also advised me to check my tap water phosphate levels -- I really should just get an RO water setup but I don't have anywhere I can put it without it being an eyesore. AR 'mini' is one of the plants that stayed red for me in both higher and low nitrates! It's actually in the picture below.

Yeah, I have always loved the ocean and I scuba dive at least twice a year (at least before SARS-CoV2) but I have always been too scared to try saltwater! I figured I have both the 17G and a 55G sitting unused that once I get the right supplies, I could give it a go but we will see if that actually happens. I would want to grow all kinds of live coral!

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The AR minis look good. Mine are still super tiny I love the sea too, grew up on it (every summer). I have never been deep-sea diving but would love to someday. I would have liked to have a RO system too, would be easier to lower the pH to keep some bee shrimp, but I get hard water and it's above neutral pH. I have a coco fibre substrate along with other stuff, I'm wondering if this will help lower the pH once it begins to break down. If not, no issues but I wanted to experiment.

Coral in an aquarium would be so awesome, you should try it someday.

 

The AR minis look good. Mine are still super tiny I love the sea too, grew up on it (every summer). I have never been deep-sea diving but would love to someday. I would have liked to have a RO system too, would be easier to lower the pH to keep some bee shrimp, but I get hard water and it's above neutral pH. I have a coco fibre substrate along with other stuff, I'm wondering if this will help lower the pH once it begins to break down. If not, no issues but I wanted to experiment.

Coral in an aquarium would be so awesome, you should try it someday.

Yeah, the ludwigia turned super green though haha, crazy what nitrates can do! Diving is great, I love it! RO is really really nice, I just don't have space under my kitchen sink and I haven't finished renovating my basement to put it down there. You could try any kind of driftwood that leeches tannins to lower the pH as well

As soon as I buy lights and figure out how to properly setup up the filter and such in the 17G, I think I am going to do it That may take some time as I am adding a bathroom in my basement so there isn't a budget for anything else

 

Yeah, the ludwigia turned super green though haha, crazy what nitrates can do! Diving is great, I love it! RO is really really nice, I just don't have space under my kitchen sink and I haven't finished renovating my basement to put it down there. You could try any kind of driftwood that leeches tannins to lower the pH as well

As soon as I buy lights and figure out how to properly setup up the filter and such in the 17G, I think I am going to do it That may take some time as I am adding a bathroom in my basement so there isn't a budget for anything else

Adding a bathroom, cool. I'm pretty sure diving is great. I have got some wood from the park which looks really great and I am currently prepping it to go into the aquarium. I tried a fresh piece of wood in a bucket and it made the entire thing tea like within 3 days. I don't want to discolor my aquarium with tannins. I did however add coconut coir to the substrate, I believe that once it begins to break down it would lower the pH while keeping most of the coloring pigments trapped below. Let's see

 

Adding a bathroom, cool. I'm pretty sure diving is great. I have got some wood from the park which looks really great and I am currently prepping it to go into the aquarium. I tried a fresh piece of wood in a bucket and it made the entire thing tea like within 3 days. I don't want to discolor my aquarium with tannins. I did however add coconut coir to the substrate, I believe that once it begins to break down it would lower the pH while keeping most of the coloring pigments trapped below. Let's see

Oh yeah, I do not like the look of tannin colored tanks haha. You can also try boiling the wood for 10 minutes, that tends to remove the tannins faster. The wood will still leech tannins over time, however, they won't discolor the water once you get that initial brown/yellow out by soaking for a while or boiling. My driftwood has actually lowered my pH so much that I had to add crushed coral to canister filter to get closer to 7. Currently I sit at 6.8

 

Oh yeah, I do not like the look of tannin colored tanks haha. You can also try boiling the wood for 10 minutes, that tends to remove the tannins faster. The wood will still leech tannins over time, however, they won't discolor the water once you get that initial brown/yellow out by soaking for a while or boiling. My driftwood has actually lowered my pH so much that I had to add crushed coral to canister filter to get closer to 7. Currently I sit at 6.8

Yes, my flatmate suggested I boil the wood too. I'll do that. I added CO2 for the first time yesterday and I'm checking my pH right now (with added CO2). Still at 7.5, but I'm not surprised because I got a KH of 16-18! I doubt the wood tannins are going to be able to lower it much either.I hope they do because I really want to get myself some bee/crystal shrimp and they breed best in slightly acidic water. I do not want to add something to make it acidic other than something that can stay in the tank long term because when I go home for Christmas, etc. my flatmate would have to take care of it and I would not expect them to add stuff other than feed the fish and maybe water top ups.

 

Yes, my flatmate suggested I boil the wood too. I'll do that. I added CO2 for the first time yesterday and I'm checking my pH right now (with added CO2). Still at 7.5, but I'm not surprised because I got a KH of 16-18! I doubt the wood tannins are going to be able to lower it much either.I hope they do because I really want to get myself some bee/crystal shrimp and they breed best in slightly acidic water. I do not want to add something to make it acidic other than something that can stay in the tank long term because when I go home for Christmas, etc. my flatmate would have to take care of it and I would not expect them to add stuff other than feed the fish and maybe water top ups.

Nice! You'll have to keep me posted. I am working on getting my 15G ready for some neocaridina shrimp!

 

Nice! You'll have to keep me posted. I am working on getting my 15G ready for some neocaridina shrimp!

Will do. If I do not update just shoot a reply here so that I get an email about it I cut the wood pieces I plan on using yesterday and they are soaking in a bucket right now. The water has turned brown even though one of them has no bark at all. I'll be testing the pH of this water in a few hours from now when I'm home because if the pH is not lowered compared to the regular tap water I may just get myself some cardina shrimp.