Adding Water After Water Change And Prime.

TheFishmonger
  • #1
Hey everyone.

I was experiencing higher temperatures in the 5.5 gallon so it was bad for both my shrimp and fish. I have no heater on and the water temperature rose dramatically over the last couple of hours. I resolved to drop it using ice cubes from the refrigerator.

My question is, I did a water change 12 hours ago and added prime, would that prime that was added 12 hours ago also neutralize the chlorine in the water cubes when they were added?

Thanks.
 

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Repolie
  • #2
Prime remains active for 24-48 hours so it should still work if you dosed it for the entire volume of the tank.
 

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TheFishmonger
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
Prime remains active for 24-48 hours so it should still work if you dosed it for the entire volume of the tank.

Yes I did. I think I even over dosed it. Thank you, makes things so much easy as well as controlling ammonia toxicity levels with temperature and hornwort in a small cycling tank.

I don't want to start a new thread..So I will ask here. Will lower temperatures help render ammonia non-toxic, and therefore buy me some time on the water changes? Because the 5.5 gallon I have to change more than twice a day it seems because of the shrimp.
 
richiep
  • #4
Be very careful overdosing prime with shrimp it's a chemical and any chemical overdose with shrimp is a killer, rather than put ice cub in the water put it in a plastic bag and float when it's done its job remove bag and water this can be done constantly without having to add anything else, what temperature are you experiencing? dropping the temp will not get rid of ammonia you need to find the course and treat that, ie. To much food, dead matter in the tank ammonia in tap water, ammonia & Nitrits are deadly to shrimp if left unchecked expect losses
 

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TheFishmonger
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
Be very careful overdosing prime with shrimp it's a chemical and any chemical overdose with shrimp is a killer, rather than put ice cub in the water put it in a plastic bag and float when it's done its job remove bag and water this can be done constantly without having to add anything else, what temperature are you experiencing? dropping the temp will not get rid of ammonia you need to find the course and treat that, ie. To much food, dead matter in the tank ammonia in tap water, ammonia & Nitrits are deadly to shrimp if left unchecked expect losses

I do not have ammonia in the tap water, the ammonia is probably coming from the hornwort leaves. I have not fed the tank in 3 days but I change the water every day. Ammonia is at 0.25 ppm. I will go to a store and get some medium for the filter. Once I cycle the 20 gallons I will add to the 5.5 gallons.
 
TheFishmonger
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
Anyone know a good petshop in New York City to get some media from? I asked for media form my order with the CPD's and RCS, but they totally ignored my request. I'd go to Petco and Petsmart but their employees seen to have less of a clue than me. I'm not trying to bash them, but it is what I observe and have encountered. I am trying to look for local pet shops on google maps but it's all obscured in search by the big pet shop chains.

I would keep cycling with the fish, that's not an issue, but the shrimp are a serrious drag. So I am going to have to go with getting media, ceramic, filter media, sponge..what ever I can get my hands on to cycle the 5.5 gallon. Then I'll do the 20 gallon next, which is so much more stable and doing fine on it's own.

The 5.5 gallons is a pain, temperature flunctuations, ammonia flunctuations. I can't imagine what will happen when nitrite ever shows up. So I absolutely need to cycle the 5.5 gallons.

It's been a week cycling both tanks. Losses so far:

(5) Black Ruby Barbs: 0
(7) Celestial Pearl Danios: 2 (both died within 24 hours of arrival), rest are doing fine and eating, they wouldn't eat at first.
(10) Red Cherry Shrimp: 3

Ammonia range 0-0.25 ppm. Maybe 0.50 ppm spikes.

I keep the shrimp alive by doing 2 gallon water changes once in the morning and once at night and adding ice cubes to deal with the temperature flunctiations. I also shake the hornwork to count them and to make sure no one is dead in the hornwort.
 
kallililly1973
  • #10
Although the petco/petsmart employees are lacking some fish knowledge they should carry a good brand of media. Like Biohome or some Fluval brand ceramic media. Not sure their exact names off hand but they usually stock all that stuff.
 

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TheFishmonger
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Although the petco/petsmart employees are lacking some fish knowledge they should carry a good brand of media. Like Biohome or some Fluval brand ceramic media. Not sure their exact names off hand but they usually stock all that stuff.

Thanks! It's good to know what to ask from them.
 
Skavatar
  • #12
if you're asking about seeded/cycled media, Petsmart/Petco won't have any to give out b/c they use a giant filter machine for all their freshwater tanks. you'll have to go to the local mom/pop fish stores that uses hobs on each tank.

the filter starts at around 1:07 minute mark


check out The Media Guide Diy Media Guide For Top Fin Silenstream, Aquaclear And Other Hob Filters

The Fluval Biomax would be a good budget ceramic media, you can get them loose or prepackaged in meshbags. Biohome, MarinePur and Matrix would be more expensive, and have the potential for anaerobic bacteria.
 
TheFishmonger
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
if you're asking about seeded/cycled media, Petsmart/Petco won't have any to give out b/c they use a giant filter machine for all their freshwater tanks. you'll have to go to the local mom/pop fish stores that uses hobs on each tank.

Yeah they didn't want to give me anything, but they offered to sell me some bacteria (which I already have).. Oh and shrimp, when my current batch dies out.. Tragic! I was a little bit insulted, but I didn't know about the giant filter machine part.
 

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