Accidentally bought fish while not knowing about nitrogen cycle.Lots of question

I need some advice. I accidentally bought fish and introduced them to a newly setup tank without knowing any clue about cycling (about 5 days ago). Now I know how to do it but since I have fish there, I am forced to do a fish-in cycle.

I currently have these fish.
5 Platies (2 Male, 3 Female)
2 Zebra Danios

Almost forgot to say I have plants:
2 Anacharis
1 Unknown plant, looks like a Bacopa

What I am worried about is they have reddish gills that look like blood.I don't know if it's the natural color and I see them because it's see through because of the lighting.'

Bought API Freshwater Master Test kit last Sunday and these were the results.When I'm testing and see hard to distinguish colors, I always assume the worse one.

pH- 7.6
High-Range pH - around 8.0 (confused why it's not same with pH test.)
Ammonia - 0.25ppm
Nitrite - 2.0 ppm
Nitrate - 5.0ppm

Tests as of June 2, 2015 8:00PM
pH- 8.0


Tests as of June 7, 2015 7:30PM
Ammonia - 0ppm
Nitrite - 0ppm
Nitrate - 10ppm

I bought and currently use the Azoo brand (I've seen good comments about their filters and seems like a reputable brand from Taiwan) of water conditioner and bottled bacteria culture and they seem to be working well.
Azoo Aquaguard Plus - works similar to Seachem Prime + added vitamins
Azoo Supreme Bioguard - works similar to Seachem Stability and TSS (more like Stability where you put the contents little by little everyday.)

Reading the free e-book by fishlore thoroughly for more information.

More Questions:
1. Can I change water during fish-in cycle? Will it slow down the process? Lots are saying they no and lots are also saying yes.I'm confused.If yes, how frequent should I do a WC? I did a 25% water change today to dilute high nitrite. ANSWERED

2.How do I use water conditioners? Do I put the water in the bucket first and I treat the water there or in the tank? How much conditioner do I use? Conditioner for the whole tank or just for the amount of water in the bucket. Will too much conditioner hurt? ANSWERED

3.I'm using sand mixed with gravel as substrate. I have an Undergravel Filter.Is that bad? Do I need to buy another kind of filter? If so what kind? Can I combine UGF with another filter? ANSWERED

4.Since I put a water conditioner, does that mean the toxic substances shown in the API test kit are now detoxified? ANSWERED

5.The thing about Ammonia Bottle #2 reagent. It says it's corrosive. It says it contains sodium hydroxide (lye). What will happen if I accidentaly put the liquid in my hand undiluted or diluted while in the test tube. Will it burn my skin?Do I need gloves? If it happened to you, share your experience please. ANSWERED

6.Can I clean the substrate while undergoing a cycle?I haven't cleaned it yet and poop and other things like uneaten food are in there. I'm using an Undergravel Filter (UGF). If I siphoned/vacuumed the substrate, will it disrupt the cycle? Is it harmful if I don't vacuum the substrate? ANSWERED

7.Planning to buy a Sponge Filter. Is it a good replacement for the UGF. Can I run both UGF and Sponge Filter at once.If yes, can I just use one air pump and use a splitter for the tubing?If no, what's better, sponge or UGF? Any other recommendations? I am planning to get AquaClear 20 when given the chance. ANSWERED

I have lots of questions but can't put them on one post since I'm worried for the fish. I will try to provide more info if needed.. I'll get back once I get home from school.I have a class in an hour by the time I posted this.It's a good thing I don't have classes tomorrow so I can take care of my fish.

EDIT:
More Info:
-The fish are looking lively. Not showing any form of being lethargic.How do I know if fish are resting? ANSWERED
-Using desk lamp w/ 6watt 6500k light.It's lighting the tank well.
-Plants look well.No wilting after 2 days of being put there.
- The water is very clear. Is the UGF doing its job?
-Completed cycling June 7, 2015 7:30PM

To Buy List:
1.Seachem Prime
2.AquaClear 20
3.API Test Kits (Phosphate)
4.5 gallon tank
5.Black Blasting Sand
6.Driftwood


Here's the pic of my tank

 

I wouldn't change the water during a cycle, give the bacteria a chance to work. However, with the red showing up on the gills, it could be ammonia poisoning, which would prompt a water change (meaning you would need to add more bacteria as you could possibly stall your cycle. With only .25ppm ammonia, however, this is unlikely. Pictures of the fish would help)

When filling up a tank I add the conditioners after I add the water. During a water change, I'll add the conditioner and then add the water. I'm not sure if you can overdose on conditioner. The point of it is to take the chlorine out of the water, I imagine putting in too much is simply just wasted product. I could be wrong.

I wouldn't use a UGF with any sand or extremely fine rock/gravel. It could clog up and potentially destroy the filter.

As for your fish, your danios should be fine. In fact, they are a preferred specie to do a fish in cycle. Platies I'm not so sure about, but there's still a chance they could survive. Sensitive fish like neon tetras have about a 90% mortality rate when being in a cycled tank, I'm not sure how platys fare. I would, however, increase your count of danios to 5-6. Cycling is stressful to fish, and them not being in a proper school could stress them further.

 

The ph and high ph results are different because 7.6 is as high as the regular one goes so that's what it's telling you. Your ph is 8.

Unless the bacteria you're using says not to do water changes, then yes, you should be doing them, different brands of bacteria have different instuctions. Any reading of ammonia or nitrite above 0 is potentially dangerous for your fish. The red gills might be because of your readings, what color are your platies?

Water conditioner can be used either way, if you put it in the tank first just make sure you add enough to treat the whole tank, if mixed in a bucket first you only need to treat the amount of water you're putting in. It's pretty hard to overdose on conditioner, you'd really have to use TONS. Unless the conditioner you're using specifically says it detoxes ammonia and nitrite then no, they're not detoxified. I've never used the brand you have, but it will tell you if it detoxes anything.

As far as I know ugf shouldn't be used with sand, I personally have hang on back filters and really like them.

What size tank is this?

 

Ninja'd! Platies are very hardy, my poor guys lived through 2 cycles. I did a whole bunch of water changes though.

 

Aww. Good to know about the platys, they're the only live bearer I've never had.

 

They're the only ones I have, lol. They're really tough little guys. Even the fry have made it through a cycle

 

I'm not sure any of the fish you have in your tank are really all that suited to a 10 gallon tank. Your platies will get up to 2 inches long and if you have males and females, once your tank is cycled they will begin to reproduce. As for the Danios, I agree that you should bump up the number to about 6. However, I would definitely not have 6 danios and 3 platies in a 10 gallon. I personally wouldn't want to keep either species in a 10 gallon. I have both in my 30 gallon, and the danios are constantly swimming all over the tank, and the platies are just too big and reproduce too quickly. At this point I don't think I would add more fish anyway, not until your tank is finished cycling. It isn't ideal to have only 2 danios, but I would think it would be easier to cycle the tank safely with less fish rather than a very heavy stock right off the bat. I have never done a fish in cycle though, so I can't speak from experience.

 

The platies won't even wait for the cycle to finish, they breed non stop.

Don't know about the danios, but when my platies are resting they're usually at the very top or the very bottom just hovering in place. They're upright and everything just not moving.

 

Hello,

Sounds like you've done pretty much all the basic research. I can tell that your fish are lucky to be in such careful, responsible hands.

You do need to change the water during a fish-in cycle (Otherwise, the ammonia/nitrites will quickly build up and kill the fish). Please refer to other sources (eg the free e-book you're reading), but I would judge that about a 66-75% change every 2-3 days would be good.

I don't have any experience with the treatments/cultures you're using, but from your test kit readings, it sounds like your nitrogen cycle is well underway. Most likely, they should speed up the nitrogen cycle so it completes faster, so it's good you're using them.

With the Azoo brand of water conditioner and bottled bacteria culture, you can mix it in the bucket first, or you can just add the needed amount to your tank (eg if you're going to add 5 gal water, you would put in enough drops for 5 gal), and then pour in the water. It's really your choice. (I always add it directly to the tank for convenience's sake.) With the Azoo Aquaguard Plus and Azoo Supreme Bioguard, I'm sorry, but I have no experience with them and do not know what the best method is. To be on the safe side, I would mix those in the bucket first.

You should get a different filter. The undergravel one, I believe, only functions with gravel, and sand will most likely stop it up. For a 10 gal. tank, one (maybe even two) very large sponge filters might work. I'm using in my 3 gal. tank, and is a larger version of it. You'll also need to buy an air pump and a couple feet of airline tubing to power the sponge filter. (One air pump can power 2 sponge filters if you buy a splitter thing like , which will split the air output line into multiple lines). If you want, you can look where I elaborated on how sponge filters work (see under "3. filter"). Or you could go for a power filter/hang-on filter. They either hang inside or outside the tank, and basically they suck water in, run it through the filter media, and spit the water back out into the tank.

Power filters would include things like, , and. Theis a power filter that's a little pricier, but it is the "tried and true" of all the power filters. Whatever filter you decide on, for a 10 gal tank it should have a gallons per hour flow rate of about 100 gph.

I really hope I helped you and your fish. Please ask if you have any questions!

 

You mentioned that your water conditioner is "Like" Seachem Prime. Seachem Prime is formulated to detoxify ammonia and nitrite for 24 hours. You will still get readings for both, but it is supposed to be in a non-toxic form. With Prime, you can dose up to 5x the recommded normal dosage if needed to detoxify your water. When detoxified,both ammonia and nitrite are still able to feed your bb colony. See if the version of your WC has these qualities as Prime does.

 

I wouldn't change the water during a cycle, give the bacteria a chance to work. However, with the red showing up on the gills, it could be ammonia poisoning, which would prompt a water change (meaning you would need to add more bacteria as you could possibly stall your cycle. With only .25ppm ammonia, however, this is unlikely. Pictures of the fish would help)

When filling up a tank I add the conditioners after I add the water. During a water change, I'll add the conditioner and then add the water. I'm not sure if you can overdose on conditioner. The point of it is to take the chlorine out of the water, I imagine putting in too much is simply just wasted product. I could be wrong.

I wouldn't use a UGF with any sand or extremely fine rock/gravel. It could clog up and potentially destroy the filter.

As for your fish, your danios should be fine. In fact, they are a preferred specie to do a fish in cycle. Platies I'm not so sure about, but there's still a chance they could survive. Sensitive fish like neon tetras have about a 90% mortality rate when being in a cycled tank, I'm not sure how platys fare. I would, however, increase your count of danios to 5-6. Cycling is stressful to fish, and them not being in a proper school could stress them further.

Thank you for the reply. Can I ask how much conditioner you are using? The sand I am using is not fine, don't know what size it is but only a little are getting in the holes of the UGF flooring. Will try to post pics once I correct the file size. I am assuming pics have a size limit here? I am wondering about the red gills to since there's no really high ammonia.

 

Your nitrite is pretty high though, and I think that can cause red gills as well. What color are your fish? I often end up double dosing on my conditioner unintentionally and it doesn't cause any problems.

 

The ph and high ph results are different because 7.6 is as high as the regular one goes so that's what it's telling you. Your ph is 8.

Unless the bacteria you're using says not to do water changes, then yes, you should be doing them, different brands of bacteria have different instuctions. Any reading of ammonia or nitrite above 0 is potentially dangerous for your fish. The red gills might be because of your readings, what color are your platies?

Water conditioner can be used either way, if you put it in the tank first just make sure you add enough to treat the whole tank, if mixed in a bucket first you only need to treat the amount of water you're putting in. It's pretty hard to overdose on conditioner, you'd really have to use TONS. Unless the conditioner you're using specifically says it detoxes ammonia and nitrite then no, they're not detoxified. I've never used the brand you have, but it will tell you if it detoxes anything.

As far as I know ugf shouldn't be used with sand, I personally have hang on back filters and really like them.

What size tank is this?

Thanks for the reply too.So when testing for pH, I need to always get the highest one?I see,I see. Is 8 pH bad for the fish or plants? Well it doesn't say I avoid doing WCs. The color of my platies are the orange ones, the LFS says it's a mickey mouse but I don't see any hidden mickeys there. The brand I'm using says it does detox ammonia etc. I have a 10 gallon tank.

 

Ninja'd! Platies are very hardy, my poor guys lived through 2 cycles. I did a whole bunch of water changes though.

I'm relieved to hear they're hardy. But I can't imagine the stress they're going through.

 

The platies with more orange in then do tend to naturally have a little more red around the gills that is visible, pictures would definitely help. Yes, always test with the high ph liquid since you're above what the regular one can read. My ph is always around 8 and all my fish are doing great, platies in particular actually prefer harder water so you're fine there. The plants won't care a bit as far as I know.

As long as your bacterial supplement doesn't say NOT to do water changes I would be doing them rather frequently (like every day) to get your nitrite down.

 

I'm not sure any of the fish you have in your tank are really all that suited to a 10 gallon tank. Your platies will get up to 2 inches long and if you have males and females, once your tank is cycled they will begin to reproduce. As for the Danios, I agree that you should bump up the number to about 6. However, I would definitely not have 6 danios and 3 platies in a 10 gallon. I personally wouldn't want to keep either species in a 10 gallon. I have both in my 30 gallon, and the danios are constantly swimming all over the tank, and the platies are just too big and reproduce too quickly. At this point I don't think I would add more fish anyway, not until your tank is finished cycling. It isn't ideal to have only 2 danios, but I would think it would be easier to cycle the tank safely with less fish rather than a very heavy stock right off the bat. I have never done a fish in cycle though, so I can't speak from experience.

Thanks for the reply. I am using the e-book provided by fishlore now and it says they are good for 10gallons.Maybe I need to get an upgrade...
I am planning to keep goldfish but it seems they're not suitable for that tank size.I heard they're messy too. I need 20 gallons minimum for one.

Can I keep them in a 10 gallon tank for now and upgrade when I get enough money?

 

I'm relieved to hear they're hardy. But I can't imagine the stress they're going through.

Of the original 7 platies I started with only 1 didn't make it through the second cycle, but he died because I did something stupid and not from the actual cycling process. They really are very sturdy little fish.

 

The platies won't even wait for the cycle to finish, they breed non stop.

Don't know about the danios, but when my platies are resting they're usually at the very top or the very bottom just hovering in place. They're upright and everything just not moving.

I've seen similar behavior on my platies too especially when the lights are off.Maybe they're resting.But when not resting, they are very lively and I think they're playing with each other.

 

Thanks for the reply. I am using the e-book provided by fishlore now and it says they are good for 10gallons.Maybe I need to get an upgrade...
I am planning to keep goldfish but it seems they're not suitable for that tank size.I heard they're messy too. I need 20 gallons minimum for one.

Can I keep them in a 10 gallon tank for now and upgrade when I get enough money?

I wouldn't, even the smaller goldfish I think need 30 gallons for the first fish and an additional 10 gallons for each additional fish.

 

Hello,

Sounds like you've done pretty much all the basic research. I can tell that your fish are lucky to be in such careful, responsible hands.

You do need to change the water during a fish-in cycle (Otherwise, the ammonia/nitrites will quickly build up and kill the fish). Please refer to other sources (eg the free e-book you're reading), but I would judge that about a 66-75% change every 2-3 days would be good.

I don't have any experience with the treatments/cultures you're using, but from your test kit readings, it sounds like your nitrogen cycle is well underway. Most likely, they should speed up the nitrogen cycle so it completes faster, so it's good you're using them.

With the Azoo brand of water conditioner and bottled bacteria culture, you can mix it in the bucket first, or you can just add the needed amount to your tank (eg if you're going to add 5 gal water, you would put in enough drops for 5 gal), and then pour in the water. It's really your choice. (I always add it directly to the tank for convenience's sake.) With the Azoo Aquaguard Plus and Azoo Supreme Bioguard, I'm sorry, but I have no experience with them and do not know what the best method is. To be on the safe side, I would mix those in the bucket first.

You should get a different filter. The undergravel one, I believe, only functions with gravel, and sand will most likely stop it up. For a 10 gal. tank, one (maybe even two) very large sponge filters might work. I'm using in my 3 gal. tank, and is a larger version of it. You'll also need to buy an air pump and a couple feet of airline tubing to power the sponge filter. (One air pump can power 2 sponge filters if you buy a splitter thing like , which will split the air output line into multiple lines). If you want, you can look where I elaborated on how sponge filters work (see under "3. filter"). Or you could go for a power filter/hang-on filter. They either hang inside or outside the tank, and basically they suck water in, run it through the filter media, and spit the water back out into the tank.

Power filters would include things like, , and. Theis a power filter that's a little pricier, but it is the "tried and true" of all the power filters. Whatever filter you decide on, for a 10 gal tank it should have a gallons per hour flow rate of about 100 gph.

I really hope I helped you and your fish. Please ask if you have any questions!

Thank you! I'm really glad to hear my cycle is doing good. Because of the advice you guys are giving,I'm less worried and less confused now than a little while ago. I'll follow what you guys are telling me.

Will try to look for the filter you have recommended. I have an air pump now and lots of extra tubing so just the sponge filter needed. And the sponge filter in the link looks cool too! and for that price, I think that's a bargain. Would love to get the brands you are suggesting but they are really hard to find or maybe even not available in my country. I'm looking for those penguin filters I've been hearing about and can't find them anywhere.

I have another question about the lighting. How many hours should I keep them on if I have a planted tank.

 

I've seen similar behavior on my platies too especially when the lights are off.Maybe they're resting.But when not resting, they are very lively and I think they're playing with each other.

Do you know what genders they are? They do seem to chase a little bit, especially when trying to breed. They are a very lively fish, lots of fun to have I think.

 

You mentioned that your water conditioner is "Like" Seachem Prime. Seachem Prime is formulated to detoxify ammonia and nitrite for 24 hours. You will still get readings for both, but it is supposed to be in a non-toxic form. With Prime, you can dose up to 5x the recommded normal dosage if needed to detoxify your water. When detoxified,both ammonia and nitrite are still able to feed your bb colony. See if the version of your WC has these qualities as Prime does.

It does detoxy those substances and I think it has added features because it says it has Vitamin B complex and a tannin extraction method for driftwood and almond extract I read.

 

I personally wouldn't do a sponge filter with platies, they poop a lot! I like the hob power filters better myself but obviously it's your choice.

 

The platies with more orange in then do tend to naturally have a little more red around the gills that is visible, pictures would definitely help. Yes, always test with the high ph liquid since you're above what the regular one can read. My ph is always around 8 and all my fish are doing great, platies in particular actually prefer harder water so you're fine there. The plants won't care a bit as far as I know.

As long as your bacterial supplement doesn't say NOT to do water changes I would be doing them rather frequently (like every day) to get your nitrite down.

They the orange ones and red gills really are visible. What scares me is they look a little like blood.Is that normal. The ammonia is 0.25ppm and I think that high is not enough to cause poisoning or am I wrong. Will do WCs from now on.

I wouldn't, even the smaller goldfish I think need 30 gallons for the first fish and an additional 10 gallons for each additional fish.

Will my platies be fine on the 10g?

Do you know what genders they are? They do seem to chase a little bit, especially when trying to breed. They are a very lively fish, lots of fun to have I think.

That's one of my problems because I can't determine the genders haha but one I have is a little bifgger and have a large belly? How big are platies when they are in the right age to breed?

I personally wouldn't do a sponge filter with platies, they poop a lot! I like the hob power filters better myself but obviously it's your choice.

Too many filters to choose from. It makes me excited to go to the FS. Any comments on the corner/box filter? Will try HOB and sponge filters. I will get the best for the fish because if it's just my choice and by chance my choice would be bad for them so I avoid that.

 

The platies I think are ok in the 10g, the danios maybe not because they like to school. You could do 4 or 5 platies in there if you have a decent filter and keep up with water changes imo.

I'll try to find a picture to show you how to tell gender...once you know what to look for its really easy with them. Platies can breed at about 3 months old I think.


Corner box filter?

 

Of the original 7 platies I started with only 1 didn't make it through the second cycle, but he died because I did something stupid and not from the actual cycling process. They really are very sturdy little fish.

I hope my platies make it through, this is the time I wish the cycle goes faster.Hope the bacteria make it in time.


This is very nice. Thanks! Will hurry to my tank and see them now. As for the corner filter, yup the little ones you put on one corner of the aquarium.

Do you have a suggestion on what fish I should stock my tank?

The platies I think are ok in the 10g, the danios maybe not because they like to school. You could do 4 or 5 platies in there if you have a decent filter and keep up with water changes imo.

I'll try to find a picture to show you how to tell gender...once you know what to look for its really easy with them. Platies can breed at about 3 months old I think.

Uh oh. I have 2 males and 1 female. This looks really bad.

 

Uh oh. I have 2 males and 1 female. This looks really bad.

that's not great, the males will constantly harass her. As for what I would stock your tank with, I would take back the danios if you can and finish your cycle with they platies you have. Once you're cycled get 2 more female platies. Or take the female back and get all males, that way you wouldn't have to deal with babies, they breed all the time. That's just my opinion though and I'm quite fond of my platies.

This is very nice. Thanks! Will hurry to my tank and see them now. As for the corner filter, yup the little ones you put on one corner of the aquarium.

Do you have a suggestion on what fish I should stock my tank?

You mean the sponge filters? I dint have any experience with those, only power filters. But I really like the power filters because I feel like they move more water.

 

You mean the sponge filters? I dint have any experience with those, only power filters. But I really like the power filters because I feel like they move more water.

I think the store doesn't accept bought fish though.Is 2 males and 4 females good?Or too much?I'm planning to breed them. For the corner filters I wish I have a pic to show you but they are different from a sponge filter. google 'aquarium corner filter' and the first pics you see are the ones I'm talking about.

 

If you're planning on breeding Platies, I assume your are prepared for 20-30 fry dropping every 3 weeks or so?

As everyone has said, Danios cannot be kept in a 10gal, I suggest you rehome them as soon as your Cycle is complete.

 

If you're planning on breeding Platies, I assume your are prepared for 20-30 fry dropping every 3 weeks or so?

As everyone has said, Danios cannot be kept in a 10gal, I suggest you rehome them as soon as your Cycle is complete.

Whoa 30 fry!? in 3 weeks? not prepared but excited which is kinda wrong. I'll rehome the danios if I get a better place for them. They are very wriggly.

 

The platies will eat their babies too if given the chance. And yes, they have lots and lots of them. The first litter I had I managed to save only 2, second litter 2 more, third litter only 1, and fourth litter I have about 20 in a 10 gallon fry tank. I would suggest not trying to breed them though if you don't have a plan for where the babies will go. I try to save some of mine and put them in their own tank but some of my local fish stores will take them when they're ready.

 

The platies will eat their babies too if given the chance. And yes, they have lots and lots of them. The first litter I had I managed to save only 2, second litter 2 more, third litter only 1, and fourth litter I have about 20 in a 10 gallon fry tank. I would suggest not trying to breed them though if you don't have a plan for where the babies will go. I try to save some of mine and put them in their own tank but some of my local fish stores will take them when they're ready.

A fish store I went to suggested me to get a hornwort for them to breed in. It serves as a home and as a hiding place for the fry I read in the book. What do fry eat?

Someone help and answer question #5 please?

 

I strongly suggest not getting into breeding without first having plan for the fry. Your tank will get incredibly overrun extremely quickly if you just leave them to it.

 

I strongly suggest not getting into breeding without first having plan for the fry. Your tank will get incredibly overrun extremely quickly if you just leave them to it.

Can I use a clean bucket w/ a sponge filter and using water from the main tank? If that's not good or can harm the fish then I won't breed.

 

You would also need a heater fir the bucket, it might (emphasis on might) work for a week or so but they really need a little swimming room to grow out, then you'd still be stuck with the babies which you don't have room for in your 10g. So unless you have a destination for the fry I would advise against breeding for the time being.

Answer to question #5 I've gotten the ammonia solution on myself lots of times, nothing happened. I would suggest being as careful as you can when testing and always wash your hands after. Just because it didn't do anything right away doesn't mean it wouldn't if left on your skin for an extended period of time. Gloves are overkill imo.

 

You would also need a heater fir the bucket, it might (emphasis on might) work for a week or so but they really need a little swimming room to grow out, then you'd still be stuck with the babies which you don't have room for in your 10g. So unless you have a destination for the fry I would advise against breeding for the time being.

Answer to question #5 I've gotten the ammonia solution on myself lots of times, nothing happened. I would suggest being as careful as you can when testing and always wash your hands after. Just because it didn't do anything right away doesn't mean it wouldn't if left on your skin for an extended period of time. Gloves are overkill imo.

So does that mean if I get some Ammonia bottle #2 reagent on my hand or fingers or any part of skin UNdiluted it won't burn/melt my hands? Lye is like the alkalI counterpart of hydrochloric acid.Just hearing it gives me the scares because I have a phobia to chemicals like those.I wore gloves and mask and goggles when I'm testing ammonia and I do look silly when doing in front of my mom and brother though. So I can stop wearing those protective "armor" now?

I'm in a tropical country and it's very hot here especially on this of the year.Heat index going up to 41 degrees celsius.Do I really need a heater? For the main tank or for the bucket. Funds are getting low, I have about 13 US dollars left if you convert it haha

 

As long as the tank stays warm enough on its own I imagine it's fine.

Yeah, you can probably lose the mask and gloves. I don't do anything special when I'm testing. Don't get it in your eyes obviously but a little on your skin won't hurt/melt you. Just wash your hands if you do get any on you.

 

That's the first time I've ever heard of someone masking up and gloving to use the API Kit :') You will be fine. It's a commercial chemical test kit, not Nitric Acid.

 

As long as the tank stays warm enough on its own I imagine it's fine.

Yeah, you can probably lose the mask and gloves. I don't do anything special when I'm testing. Don't get it in your eyes obviously but a little on your skin won't hurt/melt you. Just wash your hands if you do get any on you.

Good to know my skin will be safe. As long as I wash my hands. Whew

That's the first time I've ever heard of someone masking up and gloving to use the API Kit :') You will be fine. It's a commercial chemical test kit, not Nitric Acid.

Better be safe than sorry, I guess...

I saw the melting hand icon on the back of the test kit container and at the back of the ammonia bottle #2 and that made me alarmed. I'll stop wearing my "armor" and just be careful testing

 

I don't think anyone answered your question on how much light to provide your plants, but typically it is between 8 to 12 hours a day. I believe the walsted method encourages 5 on 5 off to allow co2 to redistribute from the soil, but considering you're using a sand/gravel mix you can probably discard that and just stick with 8 hours.