A few questions about tank

I'd spend 10 bucks on a small Whisper heater from Walmart. It's the only Whisper product I've really been impressed with. Even though it has a pre-set thermostat, it kept a Saltwater nano that I used to have at a steady 78 degrees. Great product.

I just suggest this as a way to make your 5 gallon suitable for the betta that you seem to want.

 

It is my understanding that they get to be about 2 to 3 inches. Try to give them a little current / bubbles ...

 

It is my understanding that they get to be about 2 to 3 inches. Try to give them a little current / bubbles ...

Okedoke. Thanks for letting me know.

 

My Rosy Reds are 3-4 in each. I really wouldn't put them in a 5 gal. tank as they are VERY active and actually get to be a good size. White Clouds are a better choice.

 

My Rosy Reds are 3-4 in each. I really wouldn't put them in a 5 gal. tank as they are VERY active and actually get to be a good size. White Clouds are a better choice.

Sounds like a great idea but the problem is that none of the nearby LFSs nearby don't sell them. Could you give me another stocking list please?

 

White cloud mountain minnows are great in an unheated tank (65-75F) they get 1-1.5inches.
Some danios are cool water fish also. do some research and see what you can come up with
Carol

 

I have also heard that a type of loach can be cold water. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what species? Thank you so much!

 

I have also heard that a type of loach can be cold water. Is this true? If so, can you tell me what species? Thank you so much!

Dojo loaches but they get too big for your tank. they can get up to 8 inches.
Carol

 

Are there any plants that rosy reds like? Do they like hiding spots?

 

I am brand new to this site and also to being a fish keeper. I have made some mistakes in the past few weeks and am now trying to gather all the info I can to do this the right way. I will tell you a little bit about what has happened and then ask my questions.

A month ago my son who is one year old wouldn't stop babbling about "fishy's." We went to Wal-Mart and told them we wanted a fish. They said you can keep up to 5 small fish in a 1 gallon bowl, the bowl was $10.00 for the complete set-up and the fish were 25 cents a peice. We got 2 common goldfish and an algae eater. Later that night my 4 year was devestated he didn't have a fish, and I told him we would get him one also. When we went back to Wal-Mart he picked out a black moor who he was convinced was a a shark and named him Sharky. We got Sharky a new bowl for the purpose that my son could put the fish in his room. All went well for two weeks, I was changing the bowls about twice a week and all the fish looked good. One morning I woke up and one of the goldfish was dead. I wasn
t to concerned as I knew these things can happen. An hour later the other goldfish was in destress, I kept a close eye on it and soon learned the algae eater was also in distress. Then the black moor in the other bowl was in distress. Talk about back luck!! I started looking on the internet and learned a bowl is no place for a fish. I lost the goldfish and algae eater, but thank god Sharky made it. My husband went out and bought a 5 gallon tank and another very small black moor, and also received some more faulty advice from Wal-Mart.

Now we have had the 2 black moor's (Sharky and Nimi) in the 5 gallon for almost a week and all seems well. I just have a few questions to ensure they remain well...

1.) How big do black moor's get?
2.) How many gallons will 2 black moors need to live comfortably and grow to their full potential?
3.) How long can they stay in the 5 gallon for? Sharky is one inch and NimI is 1/2 inch.

Thank you for reading... I know it's long and a little choppy but I just wanted to get the full story out there! Look forward to reading some answers

 

1.) How big do black moor's get?
2.) How many gallons will 2 black moors need to live comfortably and grow to their full potential?
3.) How long can they stay in the 5 gallon for? Sharky is one inch and NimI is 1/2 inch.

Welcome to FL. Many people here started how you did. You're in the right place for help!
1) 6-10 inches
2) 30-40 gallons
3) Really, they can't. Goldfish produce a lot of waste, and you don't realize stunting is happening until it's too late.

The link in my signature to the nitrogen cycle is really where you should start.

(Oh, and I am appalled at the advice you were given. Five fish in a 1 gallon bowl?) :shock:

 

Thank you very much! I myself was appalled when I learned how wrong they were. In giving such wrong information they broke a little one year old's heart. I infact just saw a 40 gallon on Craigslist for $50 with everything included. It is a starting point for now.

 

blbryce, don't feel bad, I started the same way you did. My daughter won two goldfish at a school fair (threw ping pong balls and they landed in their bowls).

So I went down to PetSmart and explained my situation to the salesgirl and she set me up with a 1-1/2 gallon tank, telling me it would be plenty big. Well the one fish died after several days and the other lost all of it's fins.

So I went back to Petsmart and they advised a get a 2 1/2 gallon tank for the one goldfish. Okay now I was getting somewhere...not! After a week of so, he started looking pretty bad. So I went out and bought a 5 gallon tank and the smallest Fantail that they had. The two were doing pretty well in the five gallon, but after a couple of months it was plain to see that the tank was much to small, So it put them in a 12 gallon.

The fish immeadiatly started growing (it semed like overnight). The did okay in the 12 for a few months, but the writing was on the wall that they needed a larger tank. The piece of furniture I had the tank on was not large enough for a 30 gallon tank, but a 25 gallon just fit. So they are now in the 25 gallon and doing well, though I need to change 15 gallons every week since they really need a larger tank.

But once in the 25 they had a real growth spurt again, and people are actually shocked at the size of them.

So do yourself a favor and just get a large enough tank to begin with. It's much cheaper in the long run. And you really want to overfilter the tank. My 25 has an Aqueon 20 (which came with the tank) and an AquaClear 50. And just for reference, the stocking guideline for goldfish is 20 gallons for the first one and 10 gallons for each additional goldfish.

Good luck and please do read up on the nitrogen cycle.

 

Thanks so much jdhef. I have been reading up on the nitrogen cycle. It is still all a little confusing to me. It will take some time but I have a feeling I will soon get the hang of it. Boy do I know what you mean about growth spurts, my fist black moor had a huge one just going from the bowl to the 5 gallon. I can't wait to see what they will do in the 40 gallon. I am so glad I found this forum, I am really enjoying my fish and glad to see that I can relate to so many of the people here.

 

Welcome to fishlore! In addition to water changes, don't forget to gravel vac!

 

Hello again. I saw that you're having some difficulty understanding the cycle.

Here's the nitrogen cycle in a nutshell:
Your tank has ammonia from the waste the fish produce. The beneficial bacteria living on the surface of your gravel and filter media eats the ammonia, changing it to nitrite. Another beneficial bacteria converts that into nitrates.

Any amount of ammonia or nitrites can be lethal to fish. A small amount of nitrates are fine (5-20). Once your tank is cycled, it means you have enough benefical bacteria growing to eat all the ammonia and nitrites, making your tank a healthy place to live. Your readings should be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 5-20 nitrates.

So to cycle fishless, you need to create a source of ammonia that is not fish waste, since you want to avoid fish being exposed to ammonia. You can use pure ammonia, a chunk of raw shrimp etc. As the ammonia source decomposes, beneficial bacteria (BB) will develop and eat it. You'll see the ammonia levels rise, and then nitrites rise as the ammonia is eaten. The other BB will then grow, eating nitrites and leaving nitrates. You will now see the nitrates show up. Once you have no ammonia and nitrites, and the nitrates have started show up, you are cycled. Nitrates will be controlled by water changes.

Does that help? I can explain further if you want.

 

Hello again. I saw that you're having some difficulty understanding the cycle.

Here's the nitrogen cycle in a nutshell:
Your tank has ammonia from the waste the fish produce. The beneficial bacteria living on the surface of your gravel and filter media eats the ammonia, changing it to nitrite. Another beneficial bacteria converts that into nitrates.

Any amount of ammonia or nitrites can be lethal to fish. A small amount of nitrates are fine (5-20). Once your tank is cycled, it means you have enough benefical bacteria growing to eat all the ammonia and nitrites, making your tank a healthy place to live. Your readings should be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 5-20 nitrates.

So to cycle fishless, you need to create a source of ammonia that is not fish waste, since you want to avoid fish being exposed to ammonia. You can use pure ammonia, a chunk of raw shrimp etc. As the ammonia source decomposes, beneficial bacteria (BB) will develop and eat it. You'll see the ammonia levels rise, and then nitrites rise as the ammonia is eaten. The other BB will then grow, eating nitrites and leaving nitrates. You will now see the nitrates show up. Once you have no ammonia and nitrites, and the nitrates have started show up, you are cycled. Nitrates will be controlled by water changes.

Does that help? I can explain further if you want.

+1- this is a great run down!

 

Thank you Meenu, this does help quite a bit. I undestad the process much better. My concern now is that my fish are already living in the tank....what do you recommend doing about this? I will be getting them a 40 gallon in the next few weeks (the one from Craigslist I mentioned earlier has already been sold unfortunately.) Fish were an unexpected expense of mine so it will be at least two weeks before I can purchase a 40 gallon brand new. Do you think my fish will be ok in the 5 gallon which is un-cycled until I set up AND cycle a 40 gallon?

 

+1- this is a great run down!

Thanks, but I just realized that I explained fishless cycling to someone with fish. :shock:

 

In those two weeks, I would do large daily water changes with a conditioner called Prime. It's in a white bottle with red writing. Awesome stuff.

 

How large are we talking? 50%.... more....less....?

 

Yeah, 2-3 gallons a day should be good.
Eventually, you'll want to get yourself a tool called a Python to do your water changes.

 

is that some type of vacuum?

 

Are you familiar with how portable dishwashers work? You hook them up to the kitchen faucet and clean goes in and dirty comes out using the hook up and 2 hoses. Same concept for a Python and the copy cats out there.

Just be careful with the water changes and vacuuming and you'll be fine for a couple weeks. When you get the bigger tank, go to a pet store and ask them for some gravel from a freshwater tank. (A friend with an aquarium might be a better deal for that) It's supposed to give your cycling a kick start and let you have fish in the bigger tank much faster.

 

HI blbrce,
It is a shame what Wal-mart advises. Shame on them. I hope you do not get discouraged, fish-keeping is so rewarding and this is the best place to get good advice.
I try to rescue goldfish from people who are literally conned by these super-stores into buying 1 gallon tanks for a goldfish, I also try to rescue a few Betta fish from people who have them in 1/2 gallon unheated, unfiltered tanks. Sorry about the pleco you got, he could have grown to over 12 inches. (algae eater). This is the best place to get support for your fish-keeping, and honestly, most of us have made several doozy of mistakes!! I know I have. So, again, Welcome to FL.

 

When you get the bigger tank, go to a pet store and ask them for some gravel from a freshwater tank.

Most fish stores don't have gravel in their tanks. At least, none of the ones around here do.

People generally recommend not getting cycled materials from the pet stores, as you could inadverdently introduce disease to your tank if they have any in their tanks. They recommend getting it from a friend who you KNOW has a healthy, cycled tank. I don't have any friends with that situation locally, personally, not sure if you know fishkeepers.

 

Another good investment is a good test kit. Most here will recommend the API. I did my cycle with fish, everyone is still alive and kicking, but keep in mind I have a large tank and my fish were quite small.

Regardless, if your cycling with fish I suggest keeping a watchful eye on all parameters. Ammonia is harmful as its poisons them, Nitrites inhibit the ability of the fishes blood to absorb oxygen, and with nitrates being the least harmful of the three, HOWEVER prolonged exposure to high nitrates is just as harmful as ammonia.

Ideal readings are 0-Ammonia 0-Nitrites 5-20 Nitrates (Mines been as high as 40 with no ill effects, anything over 80 is starting to push it big time IMO, realisticly try to keep it below 40)

Also don't panic if the readings are high here and there, Cycling is a bit of a roller coaster. Just try to keep them low as possible. On smaller tanks your likely going to be doing 2 25% changes a day (assuming there's fish in there) if there's no fish, just let it buck and do a water change when its done.

 

Just to expound on what meenu advised:

You will want to do daily 50% water changes in the 5 gallon tank. The reason is that by replacing half the water, you have basically cut the ammonia/nitrite levels in half. (assuming there is no ammonia/nitrites in your tap water). Prime has the ability to detox low levels of ammonia and nitrite keeping your fish safe.

One thing I want to mention is that by the time you get your 40 gallon tank, you will probably be sick and tired of daily water changes. So what you can do is use a product called Tetra SafeStart to cycle your tank easily and without water changes.

SafeStart is basically a bottle of the bacteria that forms naturally in your tank over the course of cycling. You just pour in the entire bottle of SafeStart (you can overdose, but can underdose, so be sure to get the right size bottle and use the whole bottle) then put your fish in the tank. Wait 7 days and test your water. If not cycled wait 3 more days and test again. At that point you should be cycled, but if not post a message for further advice.

Also when using SafeStart, you cannot use any water conditioner that detox ammonia. SafeStart recommends Tetra AquaSafe. Once cycled you can use any water conditioner you would like, but when filling the tank, I would definitly use AquaSafe.

 

so you are explaining this about cycling a 40 gallon? and just to be clear you are saying the fish can go into the 40 gallon while being cycled?

 

Yes, he's talking about the 40g.
The fish ideally would go into a pre-cycled tank. That's not a possibility here, so the next best advice is to get the TSS. It's a finicky product in my experience, but it's the best one out there. Don't buy a different brand of bacteria just because you can't find that one. Many will hurt your tank more than they will help.

Your fish will be better off in the 40 over the 5 no matter what.

 

so you are explaining this about cycling a 40 gallon? and just to be clear you are saying the fish can go into the 40 gallon while being cycled?

Yes, that advice about SafeStart was for the 40 gallon tank. You could use SafeStart in the 5 gallon tank, but since it is only temporary it's really not worth the money and effort and by the time it's cycled you will have the new tank set up.

To have the best chance of success in a tank that already houses fish, you need to do several water changes to get the ammonia and or nitrites as close to zero as possible. Then add the SafeStart. But it can still be iffy on whether it works or not.

When used in strict accordance with the instructions, SafeStart has a very high success rate. (I've had success several times and no failures) But any deviation greatly increases the chance that it will fail.

 

Thank you all for the advice! It is greatly appreciated. I will post again when I get the 40 gallon and let you know my progress!

 

My tank has been running since November last year, with activated carbon. Should I remove this, or just leave it? As according to the tank instructions it needs to be replaced.
How often do you guys recommend water changes and how big? It is 140L dirted and sanded tank with plants. Is there any other maintenance I should do?
Do you know any tall leavey plants that don't need too much light to survive?
What is the safe range for nitrates?

Thank you very much. All help is really appreciated.
I think the details of my tank will appear in my profile, but if not I'll post them up.

 

Hello,

I'm a newbie myself but I do know that nitrate levels def. need to be under 20ppm. I think some people in the forum would prefer lower. Nitrate levels above 40ppm can be toxic to your fish.

I didn't know activated carbon could last that long without replacement.

Pwc frequency and amount of water changed are dependent upon ultimately your nitrate levels. You should keep your nitrate levels under 20ppm. Most people recommend 25% water change once a week. However, if 25% pwc isn't enough to keep your nitrates down, then you can do pwc more than 1x a week.

 

Okay thank you!
Yeah, I don't know if the activated carbon is actually doing anything...

 

Definitely! the activated carbon will bind to some heavy metals and to many organic compounds and more (I can't remember all the stuff) from tank water. Keep in mind the BB lives on the activated carbon so when it's time to replace the carbon filter you can keep both the new and the old in the filter and after a week throw out the old carbon, so that the new carbon filter can get seeded with BB.

Just keep in mind, be careful of doing water changes greater than 25% at once. Some fish are more delicate than others and don't handle extreme fluctuations in water parameters very well.

 

Oh by the way I like your name!

 

Carbon removes impurities for the water. But after about 4 weeks the carbon becomes saturated with impurities and stops working. So it should be replaced every 4 weeks. But many filters have cartridges that have carbon encapsulated inside of the filter floss. You do not want to remove this cartridge since all the bacteria that keeps your tank cycled lives on the floss. So you would in that case need to cut a slit in the cartridge and dump out the carbon. You could then replace it with loose carbon, or just not use carbon.

Water changes should be done weekly. You want you water change to be large enough so that just before your next water change your nitrates are less than 20ppm (assuming 0ppm nitrates in tap water).

 

Thank you very much.
Just to clarify, should I keep the old activated carbon in or not? I won't be getting any, for at least a little while.

 

Leave it in.