60g From Fw To Sw

Hello all!
I recently set up a 60 gallon tank () as freshwater (has HOB filter and a heater)...as I was intimidated by SW. Then I saw this forum, read the stickies several times, and want to switch to SW.
My LFS guy (has been in the area for many years) has said all I really need to do is remove fish, drain water, remove gravel, clean tank....add sand, 50ish lbs of live rock (he keeps in stock) and mix saltwater to add...let the tank set for a day or two...then I can add a clown fish or 2. I am wanting to end up with a reef tank a few months from now.

I would get a RO/DI unit before doing the switch.

My concerns
1-is the 2-3 days after setup too soon to add a clown fish or 2?
2-would the HOB filter be sufficient for a reef setup...or would I need to run a sump..and if so...how, since the tank is not drilled?

 

2-3 days is too soon. You need to cycle the tank. Hob is ok but try to get a skimmer

 

1) Definitely way too soon to add a clownfish. I hate to say it but I would be vary wary of advice from that guy (after all his job is to sell you something). Even if you are getting live rock that has been cycled in another tank and has remained wet in saltwater this whole time, I would give it a week or two, just to make sure things are stable before you add anything and then start by adding a handful of snails and/or hermit crabs this will help test your tank out at a much lower cost. Find out what the story is on that live rock before doing anything (ie rock that was cycled in another tank, live rock that needs to be cycled, or dry base rock). If it's stuff that has been out of the water for a period of time, you will have die off and a cycle. The amount of time to cycle varies, I always tell people to plan on 30-60 days (not because it always takes that long, but because it can take that long and I like for folks to be prepared to be patient for that).

2) The HOB Filter could work, but a sump setup is best on a tank of that size. You could circumvent the drilled tank with an overflow box (overflow that hangs on the back of your tank and drains down into the lower sump tank and then also returns the water back up to the tank), but most overflow boxes have siphon systems which can jam/clog and be a general pain in the butt. I saw a recommendation for one though that uses a non-siphon based system and that might be the solution for your tank. You could drill the tank I suppose, but you better make 100% sure you don't have tempered glass where you are drilling or you will end up with a shattered tank. I don't recommend this options unless you really know what you are doing in this regard.

If you do stick with HOB, I recommend going with an Aquaclear/Fluval 110. These are wide open and easy to clean and because of their large media baskets offer many options. I do recommend going with an HOB Protein Skimmer as well on this size of tank if you are going with an HOB system, just to improve water flow and filtration. The Eshoppes PSK-100H HOB Skimmer would be a great choice as would the Reef Octopus Classic 100 HOB Skimmer.

I am glad to see you already are aware of the fact that you need an RODI system, that is something that is often difficult to explain to folks who have been conditioned to using treated tap water for their freshwater aquariums.


As for going FOWLR (Fish Only With Live Rock) and then Reef, that is a great plan to get yourself familiar with the fishkeeping side of the hobby first. I do want to warn you though that the reefing side of the hobby is the more expensive and demanding side of the hobby. Lighting is crucial and if you want a solid LED for growing corals you need to plan on spending AT LEAST a few hundred to light a tank that is 4 feet. Corals themselves are also pricey. A big coral that covers an entire rock can easily be in the $120-$150 range and smaller coral fragments can run anywhere from $15-$60 a piece. I have a 90 gallon with 5 coral frags that I paid for and have $130 into it. I'm not saying don't do it or trying to scare you off, I am just saying that if you have any ideas about any consistent kind of coral growth with a light bar that is under $100 or using your current freshwater light, it isn't going to happen. I only bring it up because many folks insist on trying to grow corals but then think they can do it on a shoestring budget for lighting and it rarely ends well. Just be prepared for the expense and a bit of extra care effort is all.


Oh and before any of this, you need to sanitize all equipment with a tapwater/distilled white vinegar mix to ensure no residual nasties are left over from the freshwater setup. Run it through the HOB filter with no filter media and just let it run. After it's done spray down the tank and wipe dry completely and let air dry for 24 hours. I also recommend replacing the tank heater as the ones that come with regular tank kits are rarely well suited for marine environments and you definitely want to make sure you have an adjustable one. Eheim Jager makes a line of solid tank heaters that are suited for both fresh and saltwater and are pretty affordable:



I do strongly suggest spending some time on to research what kind of fish you would like to have , a 60 gallon will give you some decent options for fish. Liveaquria is one of the few sites that is pretty accurate for minimum required tank sizes, identifying whether or not a fish is reef safe (ie if it will eat corals and snails, hermits, shrimp) and the general temperament (ie Peaceful, Semi-Aggressive, Aggressive) and level of care required. One of the things you will discover is that saltwater fish are MUCH MORE TOUCHY on their space and can have weird compatibility issues with other fish. So those 4 characteristics are VERY IMPORTANT to selecting fish and stocking your tank. I will tell you the most overlooked fish in the hobby, is easily the generally Peaceful variety Wrasses. They are bright, colorful, full of personality and very active/visible. Oh and a warning on clownfish, they are all semi-aggressive/territorial to some degree once they establish themselves in the tank (they are even known to bite their owners when they stick their hands in the tank for cleaning).

 

Jesterrace...thank you for the in-depth reply! I am thinking I may watch craigslist and facebook to see if I can score a used tank with a sump set-up. Not sure I want to drill into a tank to run plumbing.

 

It does make it much cheaper and easier in the long run as long as you are willing to do the work in cleaning it out properly. Just be aware to check for scratches and potential leaks with used equipment and be aware that you will likely need to reattach the plumbing (still much easier than plumbing an entire tank).