55g Parrot Pair Tankmates?

Ill be setting up my 55 gallon fairly soon, and got to thinking rather than a bunch of small schools, I might like something a bit larger and more personable as the centerpiece type fish. Ive been reading through some of the threads in the Parrot subforum, and I see that theyre capable of, and will likely eat any small fish if it fits in their mouth. I saw one person that had them with Congo Tetras. I originally was planning on a school of harlqeuin rasbora, a school of cardinal or neon tetra, and a school of cory cats.

Does anyone have much experience with keeping Congo tetra and parrots together? I know the congos get a bit bigger and might be safe to keep with the parrots, but id like to hear your personal experiences with the two species in the same tank. I see Cories will probably be ok. What id like if possible, would be maybe 6-8 Congo Tetra, 6 Cory cats (open to suggestion for what type) and a pair of Parrots. Does gender matter too terribly much? Am I better of with 2 males, 2 females, or 1 of each? Id like to reduce any chance of aggression. I think he Congo Tetra could be a good choice since theyll school, and should be good enough size to not become lunch. I don't want to stock the tank with all large fish due to the heavy bioload, so I figure with this setup I can have fair sized schooling fish, 2 large fish, and achieve a good balance, hopefully.

I had planned on having a fair amount of live plants as well. From what ive read, I see parrots will occasionally eat live plants. If supplemented with some leafy veggies like lettuce or cabbage, will they leave the other tank plants alone for the most part? The plants would probably be some Java moss, water sprite, and hairgrass, but I could go for something more leafy if it would be more beneficial. Substrate will be 2 sections of Floramax, and 1 section of sand in the middle (because I definitely want cories).

Regarding filtration, the tank setup came with 2x whisper 10-30I filters. I purchased a SunSun HW-505A 4 stage Cannister that I was going to run with 1 of the 10-30s with my original stocking plan, but could use both 10-30s and the Cannister if I go with parrots. The Sunsun is rated for tanks up to 100g, with a max flow rate of 265GPH. Would the 2 whispers and this sunsun be enough for the new stocking idea, provided I keep up with water changes and cleaning?

Hoping @Aquarist chimes in, as I see hes the Parrot Godfather. Thanks for taking the time to read, and looking forward to the replies!

Edit: I forgot to add, the tank dimensions are 48"L X 13"W X 20"H

 

Good morning,

I have not kept Congo Tetras and Bloody Parrots in the same tank so I really cannot vouch for the safety of the Tetras. I think chances may be good though if the Tetras are purchased as adults and the Parrots are purchased as small juveniles. As you are aware, a fish will eat any other fish if it will fit into the fishes mouth.

With a hybrid species, you never really know exactly how large the fish is going to be as adults. Although I have some of the same age, they are not all the same size.

Yes, Cory Cats should be fine. I have 7 Emerald Cory Cats and they all get along well.

As for plants, I had small juveniles that loved to sleep in Java Moss. Photos below:


Keep in mind that Bloody Parrots like to dig and they may very well dig up plants from the substrate. I can only suggest that you give a few plants a try and see how things go. One recommendation would be Java Ferns and Anubias so that you can attach them to Driftwood or porous decorations such as terracotta, rocks. These are very easy care for plants and require minimal lighting.

I've never been concerned with the sex of Bloody Parrots. I've always purchased whatever was available while in the store. I'm glad you've decided on 2 Bloody Parrots as these fish really appreciate tank mates of their own kind. It's nice to have a buddy!

The more filtration the better as long as the fish are not being blown around the aquarium by the current. The canister filter you have chosen will more than likely do very well for the 55 gallon aquarium if you are not over stocked. For canister filtration it is suggested to have 5 to 8 x's the tank volume for the gallons per hour (gph). So you would be very close to 5 x's the turnover.

You could fill the canister filter with a lot of bio media to house your beneficial bacteria, such as bio max (ceramic rings, bio balls, sponges) and filter floss/pads and use the Whisper filters for Activated Carbon and more filter floss/pads. This way you can change out the Activated Carbon (should you decide to use it at all and I do recommend it) much easier and you can pretty much leave the canister alone, other than changing pads from time to time. I have seen other members mention that they only access the canister filter every couple or few months. This would depend on your maintenance routine and the tank stock and how heavy the bio load is.

Keep us posted on your progress. Will be looking forward to updates.

Have fun!

Ken

 

@Aquarist thanks for the plethora of advice! I'm contemplating some ways to anchor down the plants. Id like to avoid terra cotta pots, more for aesthetic reasons than anything else, they just don't fit the look I'm going for. I still plan on making some types of caves and nooks for them to feel safe though. For anchoring down the plants, or at least the rooted ones, I might try some rocks around the bases, or maybe get some terra cotta pots, cut the bottoms, and reverse them, letting the stalks grow through the hole in the bottom, and pushing the reversed pot bottoms into the substrate and covering them up some. Since water sprite can be free floating or planted in the substrate, I might try planting it in the open holes of some of the Dragon stone that will be in the tank, or wedge the roots under some of the larger pieces. For attaching plants to driftwood, is it best to use line or thread to tie them and let them root on their own, or is there any type of adhesive that's safe and more effective?

As far as filtration, I like your idea for setting them up. I definitely want ALOT of biomedia in the Canister. I already bought a package of Biomax, have 1 3"x8" bag seeding in my 10 gallon now. I also ordered a large container of seachem matrix, which I will gradually phase in once the biomax starts to need replacing as the matrix doesn't ever need to be replaced. Still trying to figure out filter placement though. I'm thinking if I put the spray bar for the cannister in the middle back, projecting to the front, then 1 of the whispers on either end that maybe it will push the debris and such to the ends of the tank where the whispers can suck it up. Ive read mixed things on active carbon, but heard a lot of good on Purigen. Are there any disadvantages to using purigen over active carbon?

Regarding tank mates, I poked around online for a few hours last night, and a lot of people seem to keep the Congos with parrots without issues. They also say the Congos are partly a dither fish in a sense, encouraging the parrots to feel safe and come out more, as well as giving them something to chase from time to time.

As far as having multiple substrates, my original plan was back 2 corners with floramax, and then the middle tapering to the front most half with sand. Will the parrots eventually destroy the separate substrates, mixing them together from all the digging or will the substrate stay where its at for the most part? I was thinking of doing it somewhat like @ has done in his 40 gallon as far as the way the substrate is laid out, but with a bit more emphasis on the sand. Heres the link to his thread so you can see what I mean.

Thanks again, I know your a busy guy here, and I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out!

Edited to add: would 2 of these fish be hardy enough to do a fish in cycle provided the filtration is up to par for these fish, and the ammonia levels stay low while the tank is cycling? My tap is fairly high, around .75-1.0 after treated, so if I cycle fish in I need to give the tank a few days for the TSS or Stability, and the plants to lower the ammonia levels before adding fish.

 

Good morning,

Glad to help any time!

When I have a planted aquarium, I like to use 100% cotton string to bind the plant to the driftwood/terracotta/ornaments. The string will eventually (way on down the road) disappear and by this time the plants will be attached by the root system.

I've never used Purigen but from what I understand, it can be recharged and reused. Where Activated Carbon needs to be replaced for fresh about every 3 weeks. See the information below.

Purigen:
which chemical filtration media is best for freshwater ? Question - | Filters and Filtration 166065
(see video in post #3)

Purigen | Freshwater Beginners 155661

Filter Floss:


Activated Carbon:
My two cents on activated carbon: I'm a firm believer that every freshwater aquarium should use it. Granted it is a personal choice and many members only use it at certain times, if they use it all. I respect that and it's their decision.

I use it around the clock in all of my tanks, changing it out every 3 weeks. I don't feel that carbon masks any problems but removes them as long as you change it out periodically. I change mine every 3 weeks for fresh. It absorbs minerals and organic substances, helps to keep your water clear, eliminates foul odors. It will also remove medications and discoloration in the water (caused by driftwood for an example). If you're running more than 1 filter on a tank, the carbon does not have to go into every filter only 1. The other filters you can stuff full of good bio media. (sponges, ceramic cubes and tubes, bio balls).

I've stopped saying that the Activated Carbon (AC) leaches what it has collected back into the tank. There are people on both sides of the fence here. Instead I think it's more accurate to say the the AC looses it effectiveness after 3 to 4 weeks and it should be removed and replaced.

It has been my experience that Activated Carbon will not remove a bacterial bloom.


If your tank smells foul then I highly recommend adding it to your filter immediately. A water change would probably be a good idea too.

Activated Carbon

I think the chances are that the Bloody Parrots will move the substrate around and keeping the different types separated might be challenging.

Personally, I would not cycle with fish. However, if you use Tetra Safe Start (TSS) then the fish can be added immediately. You can stock the entire tank. Check out the information below concerning TSS and if you decide to choose the route, follow the directions to the letter:
Q & A With Tetra about Tetra SafeStart | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle 58116
(again, I have not used this product) I SEED all of my new aquariums for an instant cycle. Information on Seeding below:

PLEASE remember.....(cycling with established filter media) | Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle 66727

Any amount of ammonia can be fatal to your fish. The side effects may not be immediate but on down the road. A cycled Aquarium should be able to process .50 Ammonia level in 24 hours.

Have a nice weekend!

Ken

 

Aquarist I would definitely use TSS or Seachem Stability if cycling fish in, I'd just want to make sure I give the bacteria and plants some time to start working on the ammonia from my tap bringing it down to a safe level before adding the fish in. I more or less was wondering if these fish are hardy enough for a fish in cycle using something like TSS as I know water parameters will be all over the place for the first 1-2 weeks, and generally there may be ammonia present with fish in TSS style cycling. I know that Tetras and Cories are more sensitive so if prefer to add them after the parrots, and I feel like the parrots should have enough bioload to feed the TSS.

 

I will give you my experience with Bloody Reds. they are Bloody mean. Lol.... I say that knowing that all cichlids can be this way but not all are. in my case, I had 3 in a 75 gl. 2 of those 3 paired off and throw eggs on a regular basis, and are extremely mean. I had a school of rainbowfish and a school of roseline sharks in this tank and came home to find all of them, they chased down everyone, dead and ripped apart. also had a school of orange flamed tetras that didn't make it. I returned the odd parrot out as they were going after it as well. they now live with a green kissing gourami that is every bit of 7-8 inches a dauphin barb (I think that's the name) looks like a shark and a lavender gourami, they all hold their own so the tank has become more settled. the Parrots continue to throw eggs. of course we know for the most part, it is very hard to reproduce them. just my story, I love them, just have to have them in the right tank.

 

Disc61 thanks for the input. I'm going to try to get the parrots as juvenile as I can, and the Congo tetra around medium size so they'll grow at a similar rate and hopefully not develop hostility towards the Congo tetra. The Congo tetras get between 2.5-3.5" so I'm hoping that will be big enough to avoid becoming food. If not I'll have to try something a bit larger.

 

yep, I specially ordered mine as juvies and as pure blood reds to get the true color. they are beauties just have no interest with allowing other tankmates. I know it is truly a mated pair thing going on with them, if I had to do it over again I might have kept the other one and got rid of the biggest one. haha, you just never want to get rid of your biggest.

 

Disc61 what's your take on cycling fish in with them? Ideally I'd add the water and plants to the tank, give it a few days, making sure the ammonia is almost gone if not completely, then adding the pair of them in with the TSS?

 

Good morning,

Tetra Safe Start (TSS) is designed to keep your fish safe during the 2 weeks it takes for the cycle to complete. Too, you can add plants at any time. Plants will also aid in the cycling process.

Ken

 

Aquarist I'm familiar with how it works, however I know water parameters can be all over the place for the first 1-2 weeks while the TSS is doing its thing, and that you aren't suppose to do water changes in that time period unless it's an absolute emergency. I just want to know if the parrots are hardy enough to deal with those kinds of fluctuations that could potentially happen. I have 1 3"x8" bag stuffed with Fluval biomax rings seeding in my 10g, and it will go in the canister once the 55 is up and running, and while I'm sure it will help jump start the cycle I don't know that it will be quite enough to completely cycle the 55 alone, so the TSS will be used to aid the seeded media in cycling the tank.

 

Bluestreakfl , myself I would probably wait for at least 3 weeks after you got the tank started up and cycle fish in it.

 

Disc61 Yeah, I'm thinking my tap ammonia will be the determining factor. I'm thinking once I fill the tank, add prime, and wait 48-72 hours to let the prime wear off as far as its ammonia binding so as not to affect the TSS, I'll add the TSS and monitor the ammonia levels while the TSS and the plants work on eating it up. I don't want to put fish into toxic water. I know TSS itself contains a sort of ammonia solution that feeds the bacteria as well, but they say it's in a safe form and should be ok with the fish, my tap ammonia however isn't in that same safe form and I need to make sure it's gone from the water before adding fish. Thanks for the input!

 

Disc61 Aquarist 2 more questions, trying to keep to this post rather than creating a new thread with more questions.

First, it's my understanding that as juveniles these guys won't be their bright orange color. I was picking up supplies at pet smart and I took a peek at fish, the one parrot that they had was about half dollar to dollar size, greyish in color, with darker stripes. Is this normal? I don't know what color to look for in a juvenile parrot. I figure that they may show some of the parent fish traits, but I'm not sure. I just remember reading that they don't start out orange, but rather the color develops as they grow.

Second, regarding bio media, is there such thing as too much? I have about 1 liter each of Seachem matrix and Fluval biomax. On the Seachem matrix packaging it says 1 liter is good for 100g, but my tank will only be a 55g. Will having a ton of extra biomedia, say 2 liters worth total, hurt anything, or just make a stronger more effective biofilter and BB colony?

Thank you both for taking the time to help me out, I wanna make sure I have all my bases covered and ensure happy healthy parrots.

 

The Blood Parrot coloration you described is normal.

You can only have as much beneficial bacteria as there is food to sustain them. Having extra bio media won't hurt anything but your bacteria colony can only grow so large.

 

Cichlidnut so basically my BB colony will grow to the current bio load, and adapt as necessary provided I don't add a ton of fish all at once and throw it out of whack. I'll probably add the parrots first, followed by the Cory Cats, and last the Congo Tetra, at intervals of maybe 2-3 weeks.

 

Cichlidnut so basically my BB colony will grow to the current bio load, and adapt as necessary provided I don't add a ton of fish all at once and throw it out of whack. I'll probably add the parrots first, followed by the Cory Cats, and last the Congo Tetra, at intervals of maybe 2-3 weeks.

Yes, sounds like you've got it down pretty good.

 

The Blood Parrot coloration you described is normal.

You can only have as much beneficial bacteria as there is food to sustain them. Having extra bio media won't hurt anything but your bacteria colony can only grow so large.

Agreed.

All of my Bloody Parrots have been solid, bright orange even when they were very small juveniles. I'm not sure why some Bloody Parrots color faster than others.

Ken

 

Agreed, The BB colony will increase or decrease with the bioload in the tank. there are many different coloration of Parrot fish out there. as I mentioned earlier I made a special order when I got mine to make sure I was getting "True" Bloody red parrots. here is a video as juveniles soon after I got them.

 

Thanks for clearing that up. So even if they're greyish at first they should eventually develop their color. Disc61 those are some good lookin fish! Before I get mine I'll probably make a few rounds to several pet stores and LFS to see what their stock looks like before buying the first ones I see. The one I looked at while I was in pet smart was being sold as a "blood parrot cichlid". Maybe them developing their color has to do with diet and overall stress level? It's hard to say I suppose.

 

Extremely young BP's are almost always gray with black black stripes. It's a throwback to their parent species. Red Devils and Midas come from turbid lakes. The adults live in the deeper parts of the lake where bright orange is actually an asset because the red end of the light spectrum can't penetrate that far down. But when they spawn, they head to shallow sections. The fry hatch as dark striped fish as camouflage for their environment.