55 gallon FOWLR aquarium stocking

Discussion in 'Saltwater Fish Forum' started by fish4life157, Jan 2, 2013.

  1. fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    Hello Fishlore! These are the following fish I plan to have in my 55 gallon FOWLR tank- coral Beauty, 2 ocellaris clowns, six line wrasse, and royal gramma. That adds up to about 17 inches of fish when full grown. I currently have a fillstar xp2 cannister rated for 75 gallons. I will purchase an HOB skimmer if problems arise with nitrates or anything else. I want to add 3-6 more inches of fish if possible. I am thinking about purchasing 2 green chromis for my tank. Do you think this is a good plan to stock my 55 gallon aquarium? If you have any ideas about fish that could replace the chromis's post those as well because I want fish that are more colorful than that species.
     
  2. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    You're referring to inches of fish. Are you implying the inch-per-gallon rule? If so, I'd stop there, it is not applicable to FW, and is definitely not applicable to SW species.

    Your stock list is pretty good for a 55G as it is. I probably wouldn't want to add any more. You pretty much have the same stock as I have in my 3' 66G.

    Don't under-estimate the beauty of the Green Chromis ;) You could possibly add up to 4 Chromis, or a pair of Bangaii Cardinals, or a PJ cardinal, or a Flamehawk (depends if you want inverts)

    That would pretty much have you stocked.

    I think you'll find that you'll need the skimmer, and won't need the canister filter.
     
  3. OP
    OP
    fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    @ryanr
    But can I keep the canister with the HOB skimmer? I really love how clear it makes the water and I would hate to give it up. Would two chromis really add to the bioload? I have no corals and only 55 pounds of live rock and LOTS of open swimming space. My tank also contains plenty of caves and holes for fish to dart through.
     




  4. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    You'll be surprised how clear your water will stay just with a skimmer. I don't run any mechanical filtration, just good turnover and flow in the tank, and a skimmer, my water is crystal clear.

    It's up to you, I don't recommend canisters because of their propensity to become nitrate factories. You can run it if you want, but keep an eye on nitrates, and be prepared to service the canister every week to keep detritus from building up in it.

    With SW, it's not so much the bio-load. The Live Rock at 1 - 1.5lbs per gallon provides plenty of media for bacteria to grow on. With SW, your big concern is swim space and territories.
    You're already stocking a coral beauty, and like their FW counterparts, angels can be territorial and aggressive.
    The six line wrasse can also be aggressive, and are known to potentially scrap with Chromis https://www.fishlore.com/profile-sixlinewrasse.htm

    I did say you could possibly do up to 4 chromis ;)
     




  5. OP
    OP
    fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    @ryanr so I could get rid of the canister filter all together and just use the HOB skimmer? And which one (the coral beauty or angelfish) should I add last into my tank?
     
  6. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    Yes, you could get rid of the canister altogether ;)

    I think you meant coral beauty or wrasse? (CB is a dwarf angel)

    I'd stock as follows:
    Clowns
    Royal Gramma
    Coral Beauty
    Wrasse

    I introduced my six line wrasse last, and haven't had any problems. (but each specimen is its own fish)
     
  7. OP
    OP
    fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    haha my bad ;D And if I do decide to get the 3 chromis I should put them in quarantine first right?
     
  8. Tigress Hill

    Tigress HillWell Known MemberMember

    Always:;th
     
  9. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    Always a good idea to QT all SW fish (and FW for that matter). With SW, more so because they are often wild-caught (who knows what they might have), and secondly trying to get fish out of a tank full of Live Rock... hmmmm
     
  10. OP
    OP
    fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    Yeah @ryanr I have a 10 gallon set up right now ready for the fish. I was wondering how long the quarantine should last and if I should add any medications to get rid of any parasites of unwanted bacteria.
     
  11. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    Is it cycled? (the QT)

    The general consensus seems to be 4-8 weeks in QT. That's 4-8 weeks of health, if you get to week 3, and get a problem, the 4-8 weeks resets and starts again when treatment is complete.

    I know there are some things people do to as a prophylactic treatment.

    I don't actually personally do the quarantining of fish, it is done by the company that catch the fish (Australian law for imported animals), and then again at the LFS I buy from. The wild-caught fish get quarantined for 4-6 weeks before my LFS gets them, and the LFS will hold them for me another couple of weeks to make sure they survive transport stress etc.
    It sounds risky not doing the QT myself, but I have never had any disease in my tank (FW or SW). It's a process that works here.
     
  12. OP
    OP
    fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    @ryanr I used water from my main tank... does that count as a cycle?
     
  13. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    No. You need to have a cycled QT that can process ammonia, nitrite (the same way your display/main tank does). This normally requires cured live rock (not a good idea in a QT), or some other form of media that bacteria would colonise. There is very little bacteria in the water itself.
     
  14. OP
    OP
    fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    @ryanr so should I set a small piece of LR in my tank to allow it to cycle? How long should this take?
     
  15. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    Cycling can take 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks, 8 weeks, 12 weeks, there's no set time period (same as FW)

    If I were in your situation, I'd get the display tank full of live rock, cycling. At the same time put some extra pvc pipe in it, and maybe some filter sponges, and let it acquire a bacteria colony. Once the display is cycled, then get your QT ready. When you bring the fish home, move the pvc pipe and filter sponge material into the QT (PVC pipe makes good hiding spots), ensure you have good circulation in the QT, and bingo, cycled QT
     
  16. OP
    OP
    fish4life157

    fish4life157Valued MemberMember

    @ryanr Thanks for all the help!
     
  17. ryanr

    ryanrModeratorModerator Member

    You're welcome.

    Too, be sure to try and maintain the same parameters (Temp, salinity, pH etc) in the QT as the Display, then when it's time to move the fish, no acclimation is necessary.
     




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