29 Biocube Help

Aqua Hands
  • #1
So, I want to convert my Freshwater Biocube 29 to a Saltwater tank. I have some questions.
1. Can I take off the lid and use a Marine Orbit system?
2. can I use a Marine Orbit return Pump? (it is 1900 gph)
3. Can I use the wave makers? (1050gph)
 
stella1979
  • #2
I'm unfamiliar with Biocubes, as well as the equipment listed, but I still think I can help. Saltwater tanks want the overall flow to be about 20 times that of the water volume. That's actual volume, so shave a bit off the total to account for substrate and rock. Let's say your working with 27 gallons, so in that case you'd want total pumps, (including powerheads or wavemakers) to produce 500-600GPH. It does sound like the pumps you have listed would be overkill.

Looks like upgrading the lighting on a 29 gallon Biocube to a Marine Orbit is a pretty common mod. Here's a video.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #3
I'm unfamiliar with Biocubes, as well as the equipment listed, but I still think I can help. Saltwater tanks want the overall flow to be about 20 times that of the water volume. That's actual volume, so shave a bit off the total to account for substrate and rock. Let's say your working with 27 gallons, so in that case you'd want total pumps, (including powerheads or wavemakers) to produce 500-600GPH. It does sound like the pumps you have listed would be overkill.

Looks like upgrading the lighting on a 29 gallon Biocube to a Marine Orbit is a pretty common mod. Here's a video.
Thanks! stella1979 Ijust like how I could set up a feeding mode, cleaning mode, Etc. But I will settle for the lighting!
 
Culprit
  • #4
grantm91 has a biocube that he has done tons of really cool mods.

Like Stella said it appears that the return pump and wavemakers are very overboard. For that price check out Vortech wavemakers and Spectra return pumps.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
Hmmm... very interesting. Guess I am going to plan out another sw tank!

Culprit do you think I will need a ATO? I can get one But I'm no sure it would look amazing.
 
Culprit
  • #5
It would definitly benefit you for sure. I am building my own. You can top it off on your own, but it needs to be topped off one or two times a day. It gets old fast. Check out the smart micro ATO. Its really small, can fit right in the back AIO part of your biocube.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #5
It would definitly benefit you for sure. I am building my own. You can top it off on your own, but it needs to be topped off one or two times a day. It gets old fast. Check out the smart micro ATO. Its really small, can fit right in the back AIO part of your biocube.
I'll definitely check it. I have to top of my freshwater that I have in it now.

I going with the SMART ATO MICRO 120P By Auto Aqua. I will also use a Sapphire ATO reserve by Trigger systems, Do you think that will be a big enough reserve? stella1979 Culprit
 
Culprit
  • #6
5 gallons? That's plenty. It will last you 2-3 weeks probably. That looks great!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #7
5 gallons? That's plenty. It will last you 2-3 weeks probably. That looks great!
Its actually 10 gallons! while this low the salinity?
 
Culprit
  • #8
10 gallons will last you a long time. I top off manually and use about 5 gallons every 3 weeks or a little longer. So, you top off with RO/DI water. As the water in your tank evaporates, it leaves behind the salt, raising the salinity. This is bad. But if you add too much water you lower the salinity, also bad. Either of those are easy to do by accident manually topping off. But with a ATO, you fill the tank up to where you want, at the salinity you want, and put the sensor right at water level so its off. As soon as water level drops a tiny bit from evaporation, it turns on a pump and fills up the tank to where it was. It keeps the salinity stable.

Do you know about live rock?
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #9
10 gallons will last you a long time. I top off manually and use about 5 gallons every 3 weeks or a little longer. So, you top off with RO/DI water. As the water in your tank evaporates, it leaves behind the salt, raising the salinity. This is bad. But if you add too much water you lower the salinity, also bad. Either of those are easy to do by accident manually topping off. But with a ATO, you fill the tank up to where you want, at the salinity you want, and put the sensor right at water level so its off. As soon as water level drops a tiny bit from evaporation, it turns on a pump and fills up the tank to where it was. It keeps the salinity stable.

Do you know about live rock?
Yes, I do. I will have about 35 ish pounds. I am going to have a lot of caves/ swim throughs/ etc. I may even get some for my refugium. Speaking of refugiums, I have Bioballs and have heard I should get rid of them because they are ammonia factories is this true?
 
stella1979
  • #10
Plastic bioballs? If so then yes, I'd probably do away with them. It's not really about an ammonia factory, it's more about trapping detritus, which makes them a nitrate factory. For example, I use floss in my filter for mechanical filtration, but I replace it twice a week so the trapped particles don't break down and cause nitrates to rise.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #11
Plastic bioballs? If so then yes, I'd probably do away with them. It's not really about an ammonia factory, it's more about trapping detritus, which makes them a nitrate factory. For example, I use floss in my filter for mechanical filtration, but I replace it twice a week so the trapped particles don't break down and cause nitrates to rise.
Oh okay! I see, I am defianatly doing away with them then. What would you suggest for media?
 
stella1979
  • #12
Seachem Matrix... or even better, but a little pricey, Marine Pure. I have both and like both. Both are highly porous, but MarinePure more so than Matrix. I use Marine Pure in a 5 gallon that was difficult to cycle because it's a pretty bare quarantine tank. If you'll have plenty of rock to hold your cycle, any decent media will do. Matrix is also capable of reducing nitrates, (and perhaps Marine Pure to.) This is because there are areas inside that will never receive oxygen, allowing anaerobic bacteria to grow over time.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #13
Seachem Matrix... or even better, but a little pricey, Marine Pure. I have both and like both. Both are highly porous, but MarinePure more so than Matrix. I use Marine Pure in a 5 gallon that was difficult to cycle because it's a pretty bare quarantine tank. If you'll have plenty of rock to hold your cycle, any decent media will do. Matrix is also capable of reducing nitrates, (and perhaps Marine Pure to.) This is because there are areas inside that will never receive oxygen, allowing anaerobic bacteria to grow over time.
I will check it out!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #14
stella1979 Culprit here is a list of my equipment I going to get. Will this stuff be okay? If you don't mind checking it out it would be much appreciated! Online List Maker - Listmoz
 
stella1979
  • #15
Looks pretty good to me. I guess I'm wondering what the Hydor stuff it's for, since you've got the far superior MP10 on the list too.

No personal experience with these but based on the advice of others, I'd say the ATO, lights & skimmer look great. This is gonna be a great build!

Don't forget a heater! 2 of them if possible. The spare is for heating new water before a water change. Is the Hydor for mixing water for wc's?
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #16
Looks pretty good to me. I guess I'm wondering what the Hydor stuff it's for, since you've got the far superior MP10 on the list too.

No personal experience with these but based on the advice of others, I'd say the ATO, lights & skimmer look great. This is gonna be a great build!

Don't forget a heater! 2 of them if possible. The spare is for heating new water before a water change. Is the Hydor for mixing water for wc's?
I forgot to delete the Hydor stuff. I've got 1 heater and am picking up another next week. Looks like I have found What I am working for this summer .
 
Culprit
  • #17
Since your buying all the kessil stuff, controller, light, and gooseneck, it would be the same price, or mabye a bit cheaper just to go with an AI Prime, and I'd say you'll like the AI Prime a lot better. A lot more customizable color wise, wifI connectivity built in, very easy to program, and looks great. Just a suggestion. Everything else looks awesome, with quality equipment this build will be amazing!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #18
Since your buying all the kessil stuff, controller, light, and gooseneck, it would be the same price, or mabye a bit cheaper just to go with an AI Prime, and I'd say you'll like the AI Prime a lot better. A lot more customizable color wise, wifI connectivity built in, very easy to program, and looks great. Just a suggestion. Everything else looks awesome, with quality equipment this build will be amazing!
Wow, I love the look of it. It is also cheaper! Thank you!
 
Culprit
  • #19
Glad I could help! I've always wanted two on my reef. The problem with a 20 long like I have is pendant style lights won't light all of it. So I'm stuck to either buying two pendants emoji_money_mouth, or T5s or long LEDs. Dream light of course is radions but whew, those are expensive! Oh yeah, and get the AI prime HDs. I think they're about all that pop up now, but they look a lot better
 
Culprit
  • #21
Looks great except for the Coral Beauty Angelfish. These are known to eat corals. Some other options are Firefish, Royal Gramma, purple dottyback, and a cardinalfish.

Corals all good, Duncans are very easy I'd suggest starting with it, other good easy corals are GSP, discosoma mushrooms, and pulsing xenia. With your lights after you start with the easy corals like duncan, gsp, shrooms, and xenia, and they're growing well, move onto acans, hammers, most LPS, green toadstool mushroom, pipe organ, and then once you've got LPS growing good SPS like pocillipora, birdsnest, and plate montI are all good. Just start with the easy corals and get them growing, and slowly work your way up. With your system you should be able to keep any and all corals you want.

One thing I'd recommend, is either modding part of your biocube back section into a chaeto fuge, or building your own like grantm91 did. It will export nutrients like nitrates, phosphates, and others like BOOM they're gone. I have a small one I made with an AC50 filter and I have to turn it on for just a few hours a day or 0 nitrates.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #24
Looks great except for the Coral Beauty Angelfish. These are known to eat corals. Some other options are Firefish, Royal Gramma, purple dottyback, and a cardinalfish.

Corals all good, Duncans are very easy I'd suggest starting with it, other good easy corals are GSP, discosoma mushrooms, and pulsing xenia. With your lights after you start with the easy corals like duncan, gsp, shrooms, and xenia, and they're growing well, move onto acans, hammers, most LPS, green toadstool mushroom, pipe organ, and then once you've got LPS growing good SPS like pocillipora, birdsnest, and plate montI are all good. Just start with the easy corals and get them growing, and slowly work your way up. With your system you should be able to keep any and all corals you want.
LOL, I knew it. The best looking fish is incompatible lol. I will defiantly look at replacing the Dwarf Angel!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #25
Culprit would a zebra barred dart fish work?
 
Culprit
  • #26
I wouldn't. It appears that they are schooling fish. Mabye a firefish, or exquisite firefish instead? Almost exactly the same thing, colors just a bit different.
 
stella1979
  • #27
Do you know that the firefish is a dart fish? There are at least 4 different options for color, the red, purple, exquisite and helfrichi. I have a red, or Nemateleotris magnifica who we call Scorch, and I love him to pieces! They sometimes get a bad rap for being too timid. I have to admit that he's been the only fish in the tank so far, but I still think he's a brave guy. He hid a lot for the first few days, but we've had him for almost a year now and he spends day out in the open, and will eat from tongs. They're known to be hardy as well, and I believe it since our's went through a very hard time after a hurricane last year. I don't mean to be pushy, just trying to give the firefish a better rap.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #28
Culprit stella1979 I will look into it!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #29
Culprit I when and picked up the sand I'll being using! I honestly couldn't afford the live sand right now until I get my job! I trying to get my grades solid so I don't have to work about them. We just started a trimester
 
Culprit
  • #30
Awesome! What sand is it? FijI pink? Oolite? BiminI Pink?

Good luck on the school. I'm drudging through chemistry right now so much wooooorrrrkkkkk
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #31
Awesome! What sand is it? FijI pink? Oolite? BiminI Pink?

Good luck on the school. I'm drudging through chemistry right now so much wooooorrrrkkkkk
fijI pink! I love it, its amazing looking!
 
Culprit
  • #32
I got biminI pink, I like the variation but if I build another tank I'll use fijI pink, I like them both a lot. Don't rinse it!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #33
I got biminI pink, I like the variation but if I build another tank I'll use fijI pink, I like them both a lot. Don't rinse it!
OH my, I was gonna rise it tonight. Thanks for the warning!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #34
Culprit stella1979 So, I went and picked some mechanical filter media. I call it Sponge 2.0 but its actually Marineland Magnum Bonded Pad Filter Media. I used A square in my freshwater tank and my water is crystal clear. Next on my list is my media basket. Oh BTW I threw out those Bioballs.
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #35
got an extra $10! time for a pound or two of live rock. Lol, I will get this down a little at a time.
 
Culprit
  • #36
More live rock!
 
Aqua Hands
  • Thread Starter
  • #37
More live rock!
Man, Live rock kills me I may try to go with Live and dry so either a 20/20 or do 20/20 and 10 in my refugium.
 

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