Thanks! stella1979 Ijust like how I could set up a feeding mode, cleaning mode, Etc. But I will settle for the lighting!I'm unfamiliar with Biocubes, as well as the equipment listed, but I still think I can help. Saltwater tanks want the overall flow to be about 20 times that of the water volume. That's actual volume, so shave a bit off the total to account for substrate and rock. Let's say your working with 27 gallons, so in that case you'd want total pumps, (including powerheads or wavemakers) to produce 500-600GPH. It does sound like the pumps you have listed would be overkill.
Looks like upgrading the lighting on a 29 gallon Biocube to a Marine Orbit is a pretty common mod. Here's a video.
I'll definitely check it. I have to top of my freshwater that I have in it now.It would definitly benefit you for sure. I am building my own. You can top it off on your own, but it needs to be topped off one or two times a day. It gets old fast. Check out the smart micro ATO. Its really small, can fit right in the back AIO part of your biocube.
Its actually 10 gallons! while this low the salinity?5 gallons? That's plenty. It will last you 2-3 weeks probably. That looks great!
Yes, I do. I will have about 35 ish pounds. I am going to have a lot of caves/ swim throughs/ etc. I may even get some for my refugium. Speaking of refugiums, I have Bioballs and have heard I should get rid of them because they are ammonia factories is this true?10 gallons will last you a long time. I top off manually and use about 5 gallons every 3 weeks or a little longer. So, you top off with RO/DI water. As the water in your tank evaporates, it leaves behind the salt, raising the salinity. This is bad. But if you add too much water you lower the salinity, also bad. Either of those are easy to do by accident manually topping off. But with a ATO, you fill the tank up to where you want, at the salinity you want, and put the sensor right at water level so its off. As soon as water level drops a tiny bit from evaporation, it turns on a pump and fills up the tank to where it was. It keeps the salinity stable.
Do you know about live rock?
Oh okay! I see, I am defianatly doing away with them then. What would you suggest for media?Plastic bioballs? If so then yes, I'd probably do away with them. It's not really about an ammonia factory, it's more about trapping detritus, which makes them a nitrate factory. For example, I use floss in my filter for mechanical filtration, but I replace it twice a week so the trapped particles don't break down and cause nitrates to rise.
I will check it out!Seachem Matrix... or even better, but a little pricey, Marine Pure. I have both and like both. Both are highly porous, but MarinePure more so than Matrix. I use Marine Pure in a 5 gallon that was difficult to cycle because it's a pretty bare quarantine tank. If you'll have plenty of rock to hold your cycle, any decent media will do. Matrix is also capable of reducing nitrates, (and perhaps Marine Pure to.) This is because there are areas inside that will never receive oxygen, allowing anaerobic bacteria to grow over time.
I forgot to delete the Hydor stuff. I've got 1 heater and am picking up another next week. Looks like I have found What I am working for this summer .Looks pretty good to me. I guess I'm wondering what the Hydor stuff it's for, since you've got the far superior MP10 on the list too.
No personal experience with these but based on the advice of others, I'd say the ATO, lights & skimmer look great. This is gonna be a great build!
Don't forget a heater! 2 of them if possible. The spare is for heating new water before a water change. Is the Hydor for mixing water for wc's?
Wow, I love the look of it. It is also cheaper! Thank you!Since your buying all the kessil stuff, controller, light, and gooseneck, it would be the same price, or mabye a bit cheaper just to go with an AI Prime, and I'd say you'll like the AI Prime a lot better. A lot more customizable color wise, wifI connectivity built in, very easy to program, and looks great. Just a suggestion. Everything else looks awesome, with quality equipment this build will be amazing!
LOL, I knew it. The best looking fish is incompatible lol. I will defiantly look at replacing the Dwarf Angel!Looks great except for the Coral Beauty Angelfish. These are known to eat corals. Some other options are Firefish, Royal Gramma, purple dottyback, and a cardinalfish.
Corals all good, Duncans are very easy I'd suggest starting with it, other good easy corals are GSP, discosoma mushrooms, and pulsing xenia. With your lights after you start with the easy corals like duncan, gsp, shrooms, and xenia, and they're growing well, move onto acans, hammers, most LPS, green toadstool mushroom, pipe organ, and then once you've got LPS growing good SPS like pocillipora, birdsnest, and plate montI are all good. Just start with the easy corals and get them growing, and slowly work your way up. With your system you should be able to keep any and all corals you want.
fijI pink! I love it, its amazing looking!Awesome! What sand is it? FijI pink? Oolite? BiminI Pink?
Good luck on the school. I'm drudging through chemistry right now so much wooooorrrrkkkkk
OH my, I was gonna rise it tonight. Thanks for the warning!I got biminI pink, I like the variation but if I build another tank I'll use fijI pink, I like them both a lot. Don't rinse it!
Man, Live rock kills me I may try to go with Live and dry so either a 20/20 or do 20/20 and 10 in my refugium.More live rock!
