20H stocking.

Discussion in 'Saltwater Beginners' started by Themaniac19, Jun 6, 2016.

  1. Themaniac19Valued MemberMember

    So I did a post earlier about stocking questions for a 10gal, but I've just moved some things around and now I have an open 20gal hanging around. I'm planning on doing a 25% WC every week to every other week. I'll be having a protein skimmer eventually (don't know what type) without a sump (no space). Is this a good stocking list? If not what would you suggest? I already have the clown goby in my 10gal.

    Occelaris clown x1
    Yellow clown goby x1
    Red/purple firefish x1
    Bangaii cardinalfish x1
    Green chromis x1 (if I have space for it)

    Blue leg hermits x6
    Porcelain crab x1
    Tuxedo urchin x1 (I think it will eat the coralline algae, right?)
    Skunk cleaner shrimp x1
    Peppermint shrimp x2 (if I have space and if they'll get along with the skunk and corals)

    I'm planning on turning it into a reef setup later on down the road. I actually got two zoas on some live rock.

    Also, is it okay to use play sand for a sand bed, or would that cause a diatom explosion from too much silicon? If so, is there something that will readily eat the diatoms?
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2016
  2. Coradee

    CoradeeModeratorModerator Member

    Bumping this up for you
  3. OP

    Themaniac19Valued MemberMember

    Bumping this up.
  4. OP

    Themaniac19Valued MemberMember

    Bumping this up, again.
  5. oscarmkValued MemberMember

    I would suggest getting a 20 L instead of 20 H, fish much rather have length than height, from the fish list I would just drop the chromis. The inverts look good to me. I would definitely not use play sand for it, just use live sand that is meant to be used for reef aquaria, or you could even go bare bottom. I think if you keep up the water changes, you will probably be ok without a sump, but a sump is really a nice way to hide all the equipment, including the protein skimmer, and possibly carbon or GFO.

    Cerith snails eat diatoms, but I wouldn't be too concerned about them, as long as you use ro/di water, and let the tank stablish itself, they will disappear in the first 6 months.

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