20 gal tank high ammonia need advice. Welcome to me trying to understand the cycle.

frogmastertimmy
Member
Trying to find a product to lower the ammonia in my tank (am currently using seachem prime and water changes). I was told to use nitra zorb but idk what will fit in my filter. I Would prefer to buy off of amazon to hurry the shipping but other sites are welcome. In general i need a product similar to nitrazorb to help fix my tank
 
SanDiegoRedneck
Member
Prime is awesome.

How old is tank?
Size?
Stock?
Planted?
 
PNWBettas
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
Trying to find a product to lower the ammonia in my tank (am currently using seachem prime and water changes). I was told to use nitra zorb but idk what will fit in my filter. I Would prefer to buy off of amazon to hurry the shipping but other sites are welcome. In general i need a product similar to nitrazorb to help fix my tank
It shouldn’t be an issue fitting in any HOB filter. I have used zeolite crystals during a fish-in cycle which is a similar concept but just know that things like this slowly remove anmonia. It’s also not a permanent solution, just to be used during ammonia spikes dying a fish in-cycle. It can help keep the water safe while the tank is cycling but won’t remove large amounts of ammonia. Just something to keep in mind.

Is your tank cycling? How high are your ammonia readings?
 
  • Thread Starter
frogmastertimmy
Member
SanDiegoRedneck said:
Prime is awesome.

How old is tank?
Size?
Stock?
Planted?
i have had the tank for 2 months now and it has 9 fish in it 5 molly 1 swordtail 1 platy and 2 corydoras it is a 20 gallon. I dont have any plants besides a moss ball as i wanted to invest my money into a testing kit instead. readings are 2.0 or 4.0 ammonia .5 or 1 nitrite and 5.0 nitrate
 
PNWBettas
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
i have had the tank for 2 months now and it has 9 fish in it 5 molly 1 swordtail 1 platy and 2 corydoras it is a 20 gallon. I dont have any plants besides a moss ball as i wanted to invest my money into a testing kit instead.
Just a quick recommendation: get more corys if uh can. They are schooling fish and need groups of 6+. Test kits are a total mush. No way to know if a tank is cycled without one. Invest in the API freshwater master test kit. Best one for your money. $23 on amazon!
 
SanDiegoRedneck
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
i have had the tank for 2 months now and it has 9 fish in it 5 molly 1 swordtail 1 platy and 2 corydoras it is a 20 gallon. I dont have any plants besides a moss ball as i wanted to invest my money into a testing kit instead.
I'm almost positive not cycled. Get test kit and read about cycling w prime.
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
FreshwaterHG said:
It shouldn’t be an issue fitting in any HOB filter. I have used zeolite crystals during a fish-in cycle which is a similar concept but just know that things like this slowly remove anmonia. It’s also not a permanent solution, just to be used during ammonia spikes dying a fish in-cycle. It can help keep the water safe while the tank is cycling but won’t remove large amounts of ammonia. Just something to keep in mind.

Is your tank cycling? How high are your ammonia readings?
Ammonia either 2.0 or 4.0 ( i cant see well)
Nitrate 0 or 5
nitrite .5 or 1
times like this i wish i didnt cause myself eye damage as a kid that makes it hard to see colors
 
SanDiegoRedneck
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
Ammonia either 2.0 or 4.0 ( i cant see well)
Nitrate 0 or 5
nitrite .25
You haven't even begun cycle. Reading no nitrite but ammonia means your ammonia hasn't converted to nitrite yet let alone nitrate
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
FreshwaterHG said:
Just a quick recommendation: get more corys if uh can. They are schooling fish and need groups of 6+. Test kits are a total mush. No way to know if a tank is cycled without one. Invest in the API freshwater master test kit. Best one for your money. $23 on amazon!
i have a testing kit i just cant type apparently lol i do plan to get more corys because they are SO CUTE but 1st i would like to fix the cycling problem
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
PNWBettas
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
Should i purchase some quick start?
I liked Fluval Cycle. I got my tank through a fish-in cycle in about a week!
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
FreshwaterHG said:
I liked Fluval Cycle. I got my tank through a fish-in cycle in about a week!
Thank you i love how this chat turned from can i use this needing more product suggestions lol
 
PNWBettas
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
Thank you i love how this chat turned from can i use this needing more product suggestions lol
No problem! Hope it goes well. Just dose whatever you get according to the directions. Fluval cycle has you dose for 3 days but I would just dose until you get nitrate readings. That’s what I did. Took 4-5 days till my tank had nitrate AND ammonia went down. I also found it helpful to poor into the filter rather then the aquarium water.
 
flyinGourami
Member
You could add bottled bacteria if you want, although some will debate its usefulness. Instead of just relying on products, I would also do water changes to keep levels down(unless your source water has ammonia and or nitrites); generally I would keep it .5 or under.
FreshwaterHG said:
Just a quick recommendation: get more corys if uh can. They are schooling fish and need groups of 6+. Test kits are a total mush. No way to know if a tank is cycled without one. Invest in the API freshwater master test kit. Best one for your money. $23 on amazon!
Just saying but test kits aren't always mandatory for success. Also at op like you said, I would get through the cycling first before adding more fish.
 
  • Thread Starter
frogmastertimmy
Member
FreshwaterHG said:
No problem! Hope it goes well. Just dose whatever you get according to the directions. Fluval cycle has you dose for 3 days but I would just dose until you get nitrate readings. That’s what I did. Took 4-5 days till my tank had nitrate AND ammonia went down. I also found it helpful to poor into the filter rather then the aquarium water.
Im suprised how affordable it is thats always nice! 6$ fir 8oz
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
flyinGourami said:
You could add bottled bacteria if you want, although some will debate its usefulness. Instead of just relying on products, I would also do water changes to keep levels down(unless your source water has ammonia and or nitrites); generally I would keep it .5 or under.

Just saying but test kits aren't always mandatory for success. Also at op like you said, I would get through the cycling first before adding more fish.
I am also doing daily water changes but running low on prime so i need to make an order. How much water should i change daily?
 
flyinGourami
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
I am also doing daily water changes but running low on prime so i need to make an order. How much water should i change daily?
Well that depends. Again I'de say you generally want to do enough to keep levels down to around .5 for ammonia and nitrite to keep the fish safe. Bottled bacteria IMO often still requires water changes, it might just speed the cycle along but it won't give you an instant or guaranteed cure.
 
  • Thread Starter
frogmastertimmy
Member
flyinGourami said:
Well that depends. Again I'de say you generally want to do enough to keep levels down to around .5 for ammonia and nitrite to keep the fish safe. Bottled bacteria IMO often still requires water changes, it might just speed the cycle along but it won't give you an instant or guaranteed cure.
ooph saying idk if im at 2 or 4 guess ill have to do a big change
 
PNWBettas
Member
flyinGourami said:
You could add bottled bacteria if you want, although some will debate its usefulness. Instead of just relying on products, I would also do water changes to keep levels down(unless your source water has ammonia and or nitrites); generally I would keep it .5 or under.

Just saying but test kits aren't always mandatory for success. Also at op like you said, I would get through the cycling first before adding more fish.
I would disagree. If OP doesn’t know the ammonia levels
flyinGourami said:
You could add bottled bacteria if you want, although some will debate its usefulness. Instead of just relying on products, I would also do water changes to keep levels down(unless your source water has ammonia and or nitrites); generally I would keep it .5 or under.

Just saying but test kits aren't always mandatory for success. Also at op like you said, I would get through the cycling first before adding more fish.
I agree, cycling is the first priority. In my experience, SOME added beneficial bacteria products work. I had a cycle stalled in one of my tanks and adding BB really helped it along. That being said, I’m trying stress zyme right now since I’m out of fluval cycle and it’s not doing anything.

And I disagree, test kits, or getting someone to test the water, is mandatory for doing a fish-in cycle. Otherwise you have no idea the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Once the tank is cycled, there little need to test unless you have added more fish or have illness, but I would NEVER cycle a tank without a water test kit, especially not a fish-in cycle.

Products should not be a quick fix, but some are helpful in situations. I would rather see OP used BB to help cycle then add things to remove ammonia from the tank.
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
doing around a 33% water change
 
StarGirl
Member
If your ammonia is 2 or 4 I would change 75% now. You have to get it under 1ppm for the prime too protect your fish. See what it is tomorrow, If it is still over 2 do 75% tomorrow. The Nitrites are very dangerous to fish also. Once it gets to under 1 you can drop water changes to when it gets over 1ppm again.
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
I hate water changes.... They suck I hate carting buckets of water around
 
flyinGourami
Member
FreshwaterHG said:
I would disagree. If OP doesn’t know the ammonia levels

I agree, cycling is the first priority. In my experience, SOME added beneficial bacteria products work. I had a cycle stalled in one of my tanks and adding BB really helped it along. That being said, I’m trying stress zyme right now since I’m out of fluval cycle and it’s not doing anything.

And I disagree, test kits, or getting someone to test the water, is mandatory for doing a fish-in cycle. Otherwise you have no idea the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Once the tank is cycled, there little need to test unless you have added more fish or have illness, but I would NEVER cycle a tank without a water test kit, especially not a fish-in cycle.

Products should not be a quick fix, but some are helpful in situations. I would rather see OP used BB to help cycle then add things to remove ammonia from the tank.
Yes, I understand what you mean, and I suggest op to get one, but to me sometimes the need for test kits is exaggerated in the hobby. I know multiple successful aquarists who do not have test kits, and have no problems with a fish in cycle or just regular fish keeping, not saying going without a test kit is good, just IMO they shouldn't be called mandatory(but again, good idea).

I also have had good experience with bottled bb. However some will tell you to stay away from it... Personally I have no problem using it when the tank is cycling.
frogmastertimmy said:
doing around a 33% water change
Like said above, I would try to do a bigger water change. Currently a 33 just won't really cut it. Also, if possible, once you can testing the tap water might help too.
 
  • Thread Starter
frogmastertimmy
Member
StarGirl15 said:
If your ammonia is 2 or 4 I would change 75% now. You have to get it under 1ppm for the prime too protect your fish. See what it is tomorrow, If it is still over 2 do 75% tomorrow. The Nitrites are very dangerous to fish also. Once it gets to under 1 you can drop water changes to when it gets over 1ppm again.
ok thank you! im not good with water changing stuff

Edit: I wish i didnt have back problems
 
StarGirl
Member
Sorry..... I lug buckets too. Fish in cycles require certain parameters to keep the fish safe from the byproducts of cycling.
You could try the bottle bb but changing so much water it will be a waste of money dumping it every day, When you get the ammonia down to a decent level then start it. Your tank was never going to cycle in one day because of bottle bacteria anyway.

What is the ammonia in your tap water?
 
  • Thread Starter
frogmastertimmy
Member
StarGirl15 said:
Sorry..... I lug buckets too. Fish in cycles require certain parameters to keep the fish safe from the byproducts of cycling.
You could try the bottle bb but changing so much water it will be a waste of money dumping it every day, When you get the ammonia down to a decent level then start it. Your tank was never going to cycle in one day because of bottle bacteria anyway.

What is the ammonia in your tap water?
I just wish the tank was not ona high dress lol
 
StarGirl
Member
Once it is cycled you still have to do them. Look into getting a python water changer. I do 50% in my 55 every week.
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
tested my tap and it seems to have .25 ammonia or 0 i cant see so lets hope its 0
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
StarGirl15 said:
Once it is cycled you still have to do them. Look into getting a python water changer. I do 50% in my 55 every week.
After the water change it seems to be at around .25 or so
 
StarGirl
Member
This will be a reason alone to keep using Prime. It will give your bb time to eat it when doing water changes.
 
  • Thread Starter
frogmastertimmy
Member
StarGirl15 said:
This will be a reason alone to keep using Prime. It will give your bb time to eat it when doing water changes.
yeah im buying a 250ml bottle this time
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
frogmastertimmy said:
yeah im buying a 250ml bottle this time
besides some form of cycling product and prime is there anything else i should pick up chemical wise?
 
StarGirl
Member
Maybe some Ich meds to keep on hand or Ferts if you have plants. But nope less is better. Easier to diagnose problems also. Just get cycled first!
 
  • Thread Starter
frogmastertimmy
Member
Thanks everyone!
 
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frogmastertimmy
Member
Update i decided to test again and i am currently at 1 ammonia .25 nitrite and 5 nitrate.
 

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