2 Questions - Nitrates And Plants

I'm new to live plant keeping but have had my 55 for a little over 20 years now. I never concerned myself about aquarium water quality over the years. I had a few fish, artificial plants and basically just left it alone and if at some point the fish showed some distress I would change some water. Maybe once a year at best. The first year or so my interest was there but sadly the novelty wore off. To my shame it has been neglected. Now I'm back in it stronger than ever with an interest of live plants and more fish than I've ever had. 8 fish (one being a chinese algae eater) and two nerite snails. The Chinese algae eater wasn't wanted, it was more of a necessity. S.A.E is what I wanted but they wern't available. So when I first introduced a live plant before doing any research I soon discovered high nitrates isn't good. Now that you have a little back ground I'll ask the questions so I don't end up writing a novel. (1) Aquariums go through a nitrogen cycle, ok. An API nitrate test kit is not very user friendly, I mean there color chart is horrible. 0 nitrates is yellow,ok. 10 or 20 both appear the same shade of orange and 40-80 same shade of red. 160 is ok you can tell a difference. 4 months ago my water was shaded 160 and now it's shaded orange. I guess you'll have to pick which number. I say 20 so if my water has 20ppm of nitrates does this mean there should be enough nitrogen in there for healthy plant growth? If so then my plants aren't showing signs of nitrogen deficiency it must be something else. (2) When propagating ludwigia repens, a cut was made. Top portion inserted into substrate after removing lower leaves. Top portion continues to grow and main stem will split. One beam or sprout from main stem always grows faster than the other, ok. Now here is the question some main stems won't split like the others. Within two or three days I'm seeing new growth but three now have just sat there and done nothing? I waited three weeks then pulled and discarded because I have enough going on right now so it's no biggie but should this be something that would continue I may soon end up with just stubs. Another observation is when I adjust ph to 7, my tank holds this value. Seldom is there a need to readjust even after topping off do to evaporation. Was doing weekly water changes until nitrates came down, now I'm doing bi-weekly. Would like to do monthly. That would be sweet....

 

Okay so do you have the whole API master kit?
Also to answer your first question, if your nitrate is higher then 15 do a water change, ideally you want 5-10ppm. Also every tank needs weekly %20 water changes (one of the downsides to keeping fish) what is your stock list? The pH is fine unless it goes to or over 10 and as long as it stays at a steady number.

 

I say 20 so if my water has 20ppm of nitrates does this mean there should be enough nitrogen in there for healthy plant growth?

Generally, yes. Your deficiency could be light, CO2, potassium, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, calcium (rare).

You can read the beginner's guide to ferts for more info.

Within two or three days I'm seeing new growth but three now have just sat there and done nothing?

Could be lack of nutrients in water that is stunting growth.

Would like to do monthly.

pH is stable if there's sufficient buffering capacity (which is typically indicated by KH, carbonate hardness). But stability of pH should not be the main guide for water changes. Usually weekly/fortnightly water changes of 25-50% are important in replenishing trace elements and removing accumulated detritus.

Some tanks are specifically set up the purpose of needing as little maintenance as possible (e.g. Walstad tanks). It's usually high plant biomass coupled with low fish biomass so that accumulated nitrate (and other chemicals) are taken up by plants.

if your nitrate is higher then 15 do a water change, ideally you want 5-10ppm.

Depending on how heavily planted the OP's tank is, this isn't necessary. Most people with moderate-heavily planted tanks routinely let their nitrate go between 20-30 ppm to ensure sufficient nitrogen supply.

 

Generally, yes. Your deficiency could be light, CO2, potassium, phosphorus, iron, magnesium, calcium (rare).

You can read the beginner's guide to ferts for more info.



Could be lack of nutrients in water that is stunting growth.



pH is stable if there's sufficient buffering capacity (which is typically indicated by KH, carbonate hardness). But stability of pH should not be the main guide for water changes. Usually weekly/fortnightly water changes of 25-50% are important in replenishing trace elements and removing accumulated detritus.

Some tanks are specifically set up the purpose of needing as little maintenance as possible (e.g. Walstad tanks). It's usually high plant biomass coupled with low fish biomass so that accumulated nitrate (and other chemicals) are taken up by plants.



Depending on how heavily planted the OP's tank is, this isn't necessary. Most people with moderate-heavily planted tanks routinely let their nitrate go between 20-30 ppm to ensure sufficient nitrogen supply.

Correct but some fish are more sensitive to nitrate and so generally you want around 10ppm

 

Correct but some fish are more sensitive to nitrate and so generally you want around 10ppm

No I do not have the master kit. As I stated earlier the color between 10 to 20 is so close that I can't tell a difference so that's why I said 20ppm. Always assumed greater.

is stable if there's sufficient buffering capacity (which is typically indicated by , ). But of pH should not be the main guide for water changes. Usually weekly/fortnightly water changes of 25-50% are important in replenishing and removing accumulated .

I was doing weekly water changes of 20% to 25%. When doing these water changes I was removing ornaments (artificial plants) and cleaning diatoms off. They were horrible. I spent maybe 2 1/2 to 3 hours each time. Removing all decorations scrubbing and then aquascaping was getting to be too much so now I'm taking a break.