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2 Degree Temperature fluctuation harmful?
My heater is set for 78. But during the day this room warms up and my temps rise to 80. Is this 2 degrees harmful to the fish? It is cycling now...just trying to get everything right.
That much fluctation over the course of a day shouldn't be a problem.
You're cycling with fish, right? What fish and how many? What size of the tank? If you cycle with fish, you know you'll need lots of daily water changes as soon as ammonia and/or nitrite shows up, right? This is in order to increase the chances of your fish surviving the cycle (as you may know, ammonia and nitrite are deadly to fish).
I have an eclipse 12. I put 2 zebra danios in there 2 days ago. Today I changed 2 gallons. But that is my question. A friend told me if I do water changes w/ fish in there it will take much longer to cycle...and the Danios will live if I do not do water changes. ???
Ammonia and Nitrite ARE deadly to ALL fish. Yes, Zebra Danios may be harder than many other fish, but that doesn't mean they're not susceptible to Ammonia and Nitrite poisoning. They are, just like all other fish.
Yes, it will take you a little longer to cycle your tank by doing more frequent and larger water changes in a cycling tank. It would be a different story if you were cycling fishless. I mean, if you want your Zebra Danios not to get sick and/or die during the cycle, you should be performing 50% daily water changes for as long as you have ANY Ammonia and Nitrite in your water (until they both = 0).
If you can get this product:
that's what we use to treat our tap water with. it will help your fish out while cycling. ;D
Heres what I did. I used the seachem cycle stuff 4 days b4 I introduced the danios. I wanted the Bio spira but could not find any. B4 I added the water I used the Seachem 7.0 PH. Is this OK? My API test kit should be here any day.
Is the tank in direct sunlight? If it is, that could be a problem as seasons change.
I would personally avoid any stuff that claims to have cycle-aiding bacteria except for Bio Spira (which, as you have found, is difficult to get ahold of). The bacteria does soak up ammonia for awhile, but when it dies off, it releases the ammonia back into the water at a rapid rate.
The pH stabilizers are a questionable lot. I use them if the pH in my tank is fluctuating, but others swear that they are harmful for the tank. Not sure about the truth of the matter on this one.
Once you get your test kit, let us know what your tap water's pH is. Most fish are ok with having a pH outside of their natural pH, as long as it's stable. So if you have a pH anywhere near 7, I personally wouldn't worry about it as long as the pH remains stable once in the tank.
Last question from me (for now): Are you using a water conditioner? Nearly all municipal water contains either chlorine or chloramine that is meant to kill anything that is living in it. This generally means bacteria and viruses, but it also applies to fish and other aquatic critters. With chlorine, we can age the water, leaving it out for awhile to let the chorine evaporate. Chloramine, on the other hand, has to be neutralized with another chemical.
Thanks for the reply. I use the seachen 7.0 which also removes the chemicals. After I test my tap water PH and lets say its fine. I still will use a dechlorinator of some sort when I do water changes correct?
Oh...no Its not infront of a window. It is in my reptile room where I house a 21 foot reticulated python and a large alligator snapping turtle...so...between the 2..the room is warm. But come winter...it is the coolest room in the house w/ direction of the window. So maintaing a constant temp will not be a problem in winter...its just the summer months where it may raise a degree or two.
Ok, that should be ok. I was worrying that, if it were getting direct sunlight, the amount would change as the seasons change.
Yes, you use the dechlorinator for each water change.