Fishproblem
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- #41
Don't mind me, I'll just be here anxiously refreshing the tracking on my refractometer and my sand until they arrive.
Hmm interesting; instant ocean calls for 1/3 cup per gallon.View attachment 745653
Mixing salt! The measurements here are absurdly convenient. I just drained the fresh water from the tank and scrubbed it all down, and there’s just less than 2.5 gallons in the whole system without sand in it. My bucket is 2 gallons. The instructions say to mix 1/2 cup per gallon of water. This is so easy compared to my usual ridiculous division to try and figure out how much to dose whatever in my nano tanks.
Excited to take the refractometer for a spin, too!
Another mark on the board for Instant Ocean! I'm wondering if this salt is a total waste of money, as the 32 gallon box is $23.Hmm interesting; instant ocean calls for 1/3 cup per gallon.
Yeah I usually get the 50 gallon bags for $11 off amazon, salt is salt theres not really such thing as premium salt.Another mark on the board for Instant Ocean! I'm wondering if this salt is a total waste of money, as the 32 gallon box is $23.
Oy vey. So I'm mixing my salt and getting a pretty low SG reading of 1.018 with the recommended amount. No problem, I can just add more until I hit 1.025 (at least, I think...).
But this made me do a quick google search about mixing Tropic Marin Pro, and I'm suddenly learning that this salt was designed for use with a calcium reactor?? From what I've read tonight, using this salt without the ca reactor can lead to low alk or alkalinity swings. I'm not sure how this factors in to my intended WC schedule of 100% weekly though. Maybe that will keep things stable? Is all salt just salt, or have I blundered my way into a salt that's not just salt? I'll keep you all posted. Would be super grateful for any insight from you more experienced saltwater hobbyists!
Many of the pico tanks that I'm modeling mine after use massive weekly water changes (some biweekly) to maintain their systems' stability and replenish minerals. My understanding is that the many frequent large WCs are another way to maintain stable parameters. If I can get away with less than that, I'd love to!100% weekly is a really bad idea with a reef tank. They need stability. You can get away with that with freshwater but it's odds of success with saltwater are not great. If it's fishless then it actually won't be that bad. What are you planning on stocking it with invert wise? That can help us gauge water changes based on feeding requirements. Also salt is definitely not just salt. The actual salt crystals you use have all the minerals required for a healthy reef tank so definitely a difference there. There can be variations from one brand of salt crystals to another in terms of things like alkalinity, so you might want to research the particular brand you have to see what it tends towards.
Tropic Marin® PRO-REEF Sea Salt has been designed to meet the special requirements of reef aquariums with optimized concentrations of calcium and magnesium, which promote the growth of corals. The lower buffering and the correct pH value serve to stabilize the natural water values, and particularly, the hardness of carbonates, even with the use of calcium reactors.
It actually seems a little bit quieter lately, even if it's not silent.Fishproblem, after using the zoo med canister for a while, is it quiet or loud?
There was initially an anglerfish and one other fish in the 3 gallon I linked, and now they've got a clown in there. In the second video he describes how they do an almost 100% water change, leaving just enough to keep the fish in water when they drain the tank. I'm not awfully interested in keeping that kind of bioload in my tank, because I understand that it creates much more potential for disaster, and I'm just not experienced enough to justify it. That's also why the sexy shrimp are a distant goal.With fishless other than nutrient import there shouldn't be much of an issue. I could see water changes being more of an issue if they kept a fish in there as they produce ammonia and require a food source that pollutes the water. Not saying you won't have to keep an eye on salinity and trace elements (ie Alk, Mag) but beyond that corals don't produce a whole lot of waste.
IDK if I already asked this, but what are you going to stock with?There was initially an anglerfish and one other fish in the 3 gallon I linked, and now they've got a clown in there. In the second video he describes how they do an almost 100% water change, leaving just enough to keep the fish in water when they drain the tank. I'm not awfully interested in keeping that kind of bioload in my tank, because I understand that it creates much more potential for disaster, and I'm just not experienced enough to justify it. That's also why the sexy shrimp are a distant goal.
If I feed the corals, that will definitely contribute to a greater bioload, right? I'm under the assumption that even zoas and ricordea need to be fed if there aren't fish in the tank, as there's no particulates in the water column for the corals left over from feeding any vertebrates? Or is that totally off base?
I mentioned it early on I think. I'm planning to go with just ricordea, zoas, and rock flower anemones to start. Once (and if) it's super established and I've really confidently got a handle on maintaining the tank, I'd like to get a trio of sexy shrimp. I've been told that there are some super tiny gobies that can do well in a pico this size, but I don't think I'm comfortable trying that any time soon.IDK if I already asked this, but what are you going to stock with?
Freshwater! Apparently the only difference between the two is the colors they change depending on the readings, so I've been comparing my freshwater kit results to the saltwater color chart online. Clearly it's not going well though lolI’m curious, are you using the freshwater or saltwater API test kit? Or a different test kit? If it’s the FW one then maybe it’s not working right or something.
Maybe ask your LFS to give you a SW color chart next time you visit them?Freshwater! Apparently the only difference between the two is the colors they change depending on the readings, so I've been comparing my freshwater kit results to the saltwater color chart online. Clearly it's not going well though lol
Maybe ask your LFS to give you a SW color chart next time you visit them?
I'm sure it does look a bit different in person, but it shouldn't be this far off. Not sure that just the chart is available, but per BadisBadis' advice, I'm not going to bother with the API kit anymoreIt’s possible that the online chart just looks different in person
Have you used both? Salifert gets mentioned a lot on here, but I've heard good things about the Red Sea kit as well! if you've got input on which is better I'd love to hear it. I'd love to get a whole set of the hanna checkers, but that's gonna have to wait until I'm sure salt is my thing.Definitely get a salifert or red sea test kit. The ammonia is so hard to read on the api and you could have levels that aren't readable on the api, I had the same issue. Personally I got the red sea kit and that really helped pinpoint what my parameters actually were since api is very broad in the ppm readings. If your ammonia test is the blue tube then thats a faulty reading.
I haven't used the salifert tests yet (I actually posted a thread about api vs red sea vs other test methods) and I'm real happy with the red sea. But I'm sure the salifert is good too. The PH in the api and red sea is the only one thats still accurate on both. The only other method thats more accurate for ammonia is a seneye control kit or an apex system. But I've also found out that those controllers aren't worth since you really don't need a controller once your tank is cycled or if you have thousands of thousands of dollars invested in your tank. I have hanna products also. they work well (only salinity and phos)I'm sure it does look a bit different in person, but it shouldn't be this far off. Not sure that just the chart is available, but per BadisBadis' advice, I'm not going to bother with the API kit anymore
Have you used both? Salifert gets mentioned a lot on here, but I've heard good things about the Red Sea kit as well! if you've got input on which is better I'd love to hear it. I'd love to get a whole set of the hanna checkers, but that's gonna have to wait until I'm sure salt is my thing.
Either way, I think I'll be going to my lfs for some new testing supplies tomorrow.
I wonder what the implications of a faulty reading are for my freshwater test results, too...
I'll go look for that thread! I think I'd like to go for the red sea tests if possible.I haven't used the salifert tests yet (I actually posted a thread about api vs red sea vs other test methods) and I'm real happy with the red sea. But I'm sure the salifert is good too. The PH in the api and red sea is the only one thats still accurate on both. The only other method thats more accurate for ammonia is a seneye control kit or an apex system. But I've also found out that those controllers aren't worth since you really don't need a controller once your tank is cycled or if you have thousands of thousands of dollars invested in your tank. I have hanna products also. they work well (only salinity and phos)
Also are you making sure you're rinsing out the test tubes and droppers with RO water In between testing?
Yeah use distilled, thats better than rinsing in the tap. Just less chance of contamination. And good job rinsing in the tank water before use too.I'll go look for that thread! I think I'd like to go for the red sea tests if possible.
I've been rinsing in tap between use and then rinsing out in the tank prior to filling to test (test tubes and pipette). I'm using distilled right now. Should I rinse with that instead?
Haha, I try to be good, I really do!Yeah use distilled, thats better than rinsing in the tap. Just less chance of contamination. And good job rinsing in the tank water before use too.
I just realized the thread was on another saltwater forum, not here lol
Thanks! Means a lotTank looks great! I'll be following along.
I love macros! Very different from corals, and they add a lot of texture that you don't see in many tanks.Thanks! Means a lot
Not much to write home about today. I've been ghost feeding and dosing aquavitro seed all but one day that I forgot to since the first dose. Salifert ammonia test arrived in the mail, and I got to it right away. Result came back with 0 ammonia. So now I have to twiddle my thumbs till the nitrate test arrives. Either I've got a cycle that's eaten all my ammonia, and I'll get a beautiful nitrate reading this week, or something has gone very awry and I have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrate. We'll see!
Been thinking about macroalgae a lot lately, too. The algaebarn website is just too tempting. Right now I'm really hoping to get some blue hypnea and pom pom gracilaria. Seems as though both are native to the caribbean, so fit the theme well. And well, that's it! I'll probably write quite a bit about my macroalgae hopes and dreams tomorrow.
Yeah! They're awesome! I'm trying to consider how the tank looks with and without blues, so I'm thinking blue hypnea, a sun coral, and a red rhodophyte will make for awesome viewing regardless of the lighting. Also I'm a planted tank geek when it comes to freshwater, so why fight it? lolI love macros! Very different from corals, and they add a lot of texture that you don't see in many tanks.
I've got some Gracilaria Hayi (pom pom) in my mantis tank and my reef tank, and it does well. Likes high light, for sure - flow doesn't seem to matter as much, although higher flow keeps detritus from settling on it. I've also got some carpeting Halimeda in my mantis tank that I like a lot. I've kept several different species of Caulerpa in the past, too, and they're all fun. I have a bit of red grape caulerpa in my reef now, and it's been a fairly slow grower in comparison to C. Prolifera. I'd recommend ordering from Live-Plants.com - Algaebarn is cool, but they tend to be expensive IMO.
Blue hypnea is nice, but I'd research specific requirements before pulling the trigger. I've never tried it myself, but I've heard it can be pretty picky on lighting conditions. I had actually never specifically heard of Rhodophyta, but I guess it's a relatively common macro. Dragon's Breath and Red Ogo would be similar ones to look into, if you can't find exactly what you're looking for.Yeah! They're awesome! I'm trying to consider how the tank looks with and without blues, so I'm thinking blue hypnea, a sun coral, and a red rhodophyte will make for awesome viewing regardless of the lighting. Also I'm a planted tank geek when it comes to freshwater, so why fight it? lol
I've definitely got enough flow to blow the dust off, but not enough for any "high flow" organisms, that's for sure. Thanks for the tip about live-plants.com! I didn't even know they exist.
You're right, I do think I need to keep another macroalgae alive before I try the blue hypnea. Yeah, I think any "red algae" falls under the rhodophyte category. So long as it's native to the Caribbean and fits in my tank, I'll take it. Beginners can't be too picky, I think!Blue hypnea is nice, but I'd research specific requirements before pulling the trigger. I've never tried it myself, but I've heard it can be pretty picky on lighting conditions. I had actually never specifically heard of Rhodophyta, but I guess it's a relatively common macro. Dragon's Breath and Red Ogo would be similar ones to look into, if you can't find exactly what you're looking for.