180 Gallon Build

Ordered some Water Wisteria, and Ludwigia today. Tracking information says it should arrive next week, which is about when I'll receive my second light fixture. Looking forward to getting these in the tank and get some color in there.

EDIT: The Water Wisteria will be arriving today, so I'm hoping the single fixture will keep them going long enough for the 2nd one to get here. I do have green algae growing on a rock just barely out of the substrate, so I'll hoping for the best!

The algae was another reason I wanted to get more plants introduced, to out compete it. I only have my lights on for 6 hours a day. Well, 6 hours and 15 minutes since I feed in the morning. I turn the lights on, and let everyone eat. Then drop some food in for the Ghost Knife with the lights off. My parameters seem to be good, so I'm doubting it's excess nitrates. 0/0/10.

 

So... I had a mysterious Acara death this morning. No idea what caused it. He showed no signs of being picked on, and was swimming around happy and eating yesterday. He was the smallest of the bunch. Water Parameters are 0/0/20 (I do water changes on Mondays). His body was stuck to one of my power heads, but everyone in my tank is more than healthy enough to swim against the current it produces, much less the intake current. So my guess is that's just where his body settled after he passed. Nobody in the tank is showing any type of illness, spots, or lethargy. So I'm stumped! Could this have just been a bad stock death?

 

Sorry for your loss .

How are the other 2 doing?

 

Sorry for your loss .

How are the other 2 doing?

I have 4 others, ended up ordering 5, expecting at least one loss. They are perfectly happy, and have even become comfortable enough to eat from my hand already. That's what concerns me. Everyone else seems perfectly happy and healthy.

 

So... I had a mysterious Acara death this morning. No idea what caused it. He showed no signs of being picked on, and was swimming around happy and eating yesterday. He was the smallest of the bunch. Water Parameters are 0/0/20 (I do water changes on Mondays). His body was stuck to one of my power heads, but everyone in my tank is more than healthy enough to swim against the current it produces, much less the intake current. So my guess is that's just where his body settled after he passed. Nobody in the tank is showing any type of illness, spots, or lethargy. So I'm stumped! Could this have just been a bad stock death?

Sorry for your loss . if he’s the smallest one and you got them all at the same time from the same person, he could’ve just been the runt. I find with breeding bettas that most runts turn out to be genetically weaker than the others from the clutch. Maybe the same things happened here with this guy?

 

I’m going to say weak stock, but keep an eye on everyone else of course. They were your most recent additions right? He may just not have been strong enough to handle the stress of shipping and acclimation.

 

I’m going to say weak stock, but keep an eye on everyone else of course. They were your most recent additions right? He may just not have been strong enough to handle the stress of shipping and acclimation.

I got them a week ago though. The others already eat out of my hand. Just worries me.

 

I got them a week ago though. The others already eat out of my hand. Just worries me.

It can happen with any fish. One of my kuhli's looked sick and lethargic while the other one I got at the same time was energetic and happy. After about a week or so, he started acting active and happy like the other one. Then I bought 10 neon tetras and 5 died within 24 hrs. Another just died yesterday, 3 weeks later with no signs of sickness. I'm worried the other 4 might drop dead too but I'm not getting any more neon tetras.

Hopefully the other 4 are healthy and happy.

 

So far, no other signs of sickness. So I'm going to chalk it up to genetics.

I have another problem though. I found my major aggressors. The Clown Loaches, are constantly nipping at everything but the Rainbows in the tank. I've been told they are generally peaceful, but these guys are terrors! Any suggestions?

 

And... Another problem. Ich has shown its ugly head. I noticed it yesterday morning after a water change. The Clown Loaches seem to be the most effected, and the Acara's are showing signs of flashing. I got an natural ich remedy until tomorrow, then I'll start treating with Salt as well.

I've been debating getting another UV light for the other over flow, this only enhances my want to get one.

I'm going to chalk the exposure to my Acara's, or the plants I recently introduced. I've been keeping a close eye on my parameters, and they have been 0/0/>40. So I don't think it's my water quality. Right now I'm just hoping I get this under control before it gets out of hand and starts claiming lives. Everyone still has a healthy appetite, and between flow in the tank, and my filter outputs keeping the surface agitated. I think I'll be good in oxygen in the tank.

 

You don't want to use salt in such a big tank and especially with loaches. Heat might be hard in a big tank. I'd try Kordon Rid-Ich. The UV light will definitely help when the ich spores are in the water column. Also a fine 100 micron filter attached to a power head will help filter out the water column. Daily or every other day water changes are very helpful too.

 

You don't want to use salt in such a big tank and especially with loaches. Heat might be hard in a big tank. I'd try Kordon Rid-Ich. The UV light will definitely help when the ich spores are in the water column. Also a fine 100 micron filter attached to a power head will help filter out the water column. Daily or every other day water changes are very helpful too.

I've read that a lighter amount of salt is okay to use with Loaches. Heating shouldn't be a problem. I can definitely as fine filters on the power heads. I'd assume to change these daily to remove the spores? I've already raised the heat up to 83, planned on moving up to 86 today.

I'm using Microbe-Lift right now.

 

If you're gonna use heat, don't use salt or medicine. Ich stops attacking fish at 85°F, they stop reproducing at 86°F and they die at 89.5°F (for 5 days?). Make sure you have an accurate thermometer. Most commercial thermometers are +/- 2°F. You can raise the temps 1-2°F every hour. I would go up to 87-88°F.

The fine filters will help a lot. I've read that you can reuse the filters if you dip them in boiling water for a few mins. UV will also kill the spores.

I thought the tank was cycled?

 

If you're gonna use heat, don't use salt or medicine. Ich stops attacking fish at 85°F, they stop reproducing at 86°F and they die at 89.5°F (for 5 days?). Make sure you have an accurate thermometer. Most commercial thermometers are +/- 2°F. You can raise the temps 1-2°F every hour. I would go up to 87-88°F.

The fine filters will help a lot. I've read that you can reuse the filters if you dip them in boiling water for a few mins. UV will also kill the spores.

I thought the tank was cycled?

The tank is cycled, what makes you think it wasn't? The Ich presence? Trust me, I'm as confused as you are. My water quality has been great for quite awhile now.

Are you sure heat alone is enough to treat it? Almost everything I've read says to do both, as the salt will not allow reproduction, and the heat increases the life cycle.

 

You said you were using Microbe-Lift. I thought that was just for cycling like TSS+.

Salt can do more harm than good and the only way to get rid of salt is massive water changes. 86°F will stop reproduction but if your thermometer is off by 2° and it's actually 84°F in your tank, you just speed up the lifecycle and nothing else. That's why 87-88°F is usually recommend by knowledgeable people (not parrots on the internet). The temps I posted are specific and from scientific studies of ich. There are a few heat resistant strains of ich but are rare.

 

You said you were using Microbe-Lift. I thought that was just for cycling like TSS+.

Salt can do more harm than good and the only way to get rid of salt is massive water changes. 86°F will stop reproduction but if your thermometer is off by 2° and it's actually 84°F in your tank, you just speed up the lifecycle and nothing else. That's why 87-88°F is usually recommend by knowledgeable people (not parrots on the internet). The temps I posted are specific and from scientific studies of ich. There are a few heat resistant strains of ich but are rare.

This is Microbe-Lift. I'll pick up a more precise thermometer. I'm not 100% on the accuracy of this one, and as you stated, the heat method is likely not as effective in a larger tank, as I'm sure there will be cooler spots. Not 2 degrees, but possibly enough to provide shelter... Although unlikely, since I have the 2 power heads constantly moving the water. I'll try it out, and see if their condition improves. I don't mind the water changes, if it clears this potentially fatal bacteria.

 

Ah... I thought you were talking about Special Blend


If you're using meds already, follow thru with that before doing the heat treatment. You really shouldn't do both at the same time.

Accurate thermometers are very expensive. I used my DMM with temp probe to calibrate a infrared thermometer that I use for water changes and spot check my tanks.

 

I'll keep it at 83 then, so it at the very least speeds up the life cycle. The 10 day recommendation should be more than enough at that temp

 

Just got my Ludwigia today, and my 2nd fixture is shipped. The Water Wisteria didn't make it unfortunately. I'm sure the Ludwigia will be okay, as I should get the lights in a couple days. The Ich problem hasn't gotten better, but it also hasn't gotten worse. So I'm betting the medicine is doing its job. I just have to wait for the Ich to die from starvation at this point.

 

So, the bad news gets worse. Ich has claimed the first victim. One of my Loaches, which have been hit the hardest by it, passed last night. So I picked up some Kordon Rid Ich Plus. Hoping for better results with this.

 

3 days into treatment, and 2 more losses, and FINALLY starting to see relief. I started doing doses in 12 hour intervals, and plan on continuing until all signs of Ich are gone. I'll drop down to 24 hours for awhile after. I fully plan on keeping treatment up for at least 5 days after.

This seems to be a resilient strain, and I'm not interested in fighting it like this again. I lost a total of 2 Clown Loaches, and my BGK. It seems anything hiding in the same place as the Loaches got it pretty badly.

I already have another BGK in QT, and plan on getting another 2 Loaches in there soon.

On the plus side, the plants seem to be really thriving with the second light. Starting to see some really good growth now. I'll post pictures of the plants and replacements tomorrow.

 

Picture time!


You can see the Ich on the poor Loach.
Red buds on the tops of the Ludwigia, all started shortly after I added the second fixture

 

Congrats on the new additions, shame to hear about the outbreak. Your tank looks lovely though!

Subbing!

 

Thanks! It's been a rough journey with this tank so far, but once I get through this outbreak, I'm sure things will settle down and I'll be able to watch these beauty's grow up. My next project will be a 300+ Gallon Stingray tank. Now THAT should be fun! That will be after the remodel and moving my current tanks upstairs though.

 

Thanks! It's been a rough journey with this tank so far, but once I get through this outbreak, I'm sure things will settle down and I'll be able to watch these beauty's grow up. My next project will be a 300+ Gallon Stingray tank. Now THAT should be fun! That will be after the remodel and moving my current tanks upstairs though.

If you don't have a thread for that already, tag me please! I love Freshwater stingrays with a passion!

 

I don't yet, it'll be at least next year before I start it. The only thing I might get started is the stand and building a sump. I have a 55 Gallon Sump built already, but I don't think it'll be enough for the "big one".

 

Not even finished with this big tank and you're already thinking about the next one! I look forward to watching your fish grow up in here, too!

 

I've wanted a Freshwater Stingray for the longest time, and hoped this one was going to be big enough. Then I did the extensive research, and started making plans then. Lol.

 

This one isn't big enough for stingrays?

 

Not wide enough. Even the dwarf stingray get to be about 18" round. With mine being a Bowfront, the narrower parts are less than 18" wide. Especially with the overflows.

 

Ah ok. Learn something new every day!

 

Ah ok. Learn something new every day!

Lol, I was surprised myself! Beautiful creatures though, can't wait to get it going.

 

Okay, so anyone who has experienced a more severe case of Ich, I'll hoping will be able to help me out. All signs of Ich are gone from everything but the Clown Loaches, they are almost Ich free. The concern I have now, is that the spots that moved back to the first stage (fall off the fish and regrow on the substrate), look like they exploded on the Loaches. They have white splotches, instead of dots everywhere Ich was. Any ideas on if this is something I'll have to treat separate, or if it will heal on its own? I can switch the effected Loaches into the QT once I'm sure the Ich is gone if needed. I've been eyeing a 150 too... That's a possible story for another day . ( Dimensions are 24"L x 48"W x 30"H so you can see why it's catching my eye). Back to the possible issue at hand. Suggestions needed please!

 

Can you take a pic of the splotches? That's not normal with ich, makes me think something else.

 

Tried to get it the best I could. Whatever it is, the Kordons Rid Ich Plus seems to be treating it, as it has gotten much better overall.

 

Lag, double posted

 

Tried to get it the best I could. Whatever it is, the Kordons Rid Ich Plus seems to be treating it, as it has gotten much better overall.

 

Tried to get it the best I could. Whatever it is, the Kordons Rid Ich Plus seems to be treating it, as it has gotten much better overall.

 

I see ich, but I don't see big white splotches.

 

Those "dots" in the bottom picture, are more splotches, than dots. The best explanation I can give is that it looks like the dot exploded and left behind a white residue