125 fishless cycle advice

I just set up my new 125 gallon tank and I am using RO/DI water (I thought it would work fine because I use it for top offs in my reef tank). I also does ammonia once and the ppm is at a solid 3-4 and its been that way for about five days. I added Fritz Turbostart 700 4 days ago to hopefully cycle my tank quicker. However, I haven't noticed any difference in Nitrites or ammonia since adding the Turbostart. I am getting worried that RO/DI water is stopping my tank from cycling. I need some opinions on this. Should I take out most of my water and replace it with treated tap water or should I just leave it and let it do its thing? Should I add some sort of minerals to the RO/DI water that would usually be in tap water? If someone could help me out on this one, that would be great.

 

Possibly. This is the one case where I would think ammonia alone may not be enough. Nitrifiers do not need a carbon source, and they can definitely use the ammonia not only as an energy source but also as a nitrogen source. However, they still need other elements (phosphorus, sulfur, etc.) that may be too depleted when using RO/DI water.

For freshwater tanks, I'd definitely recommend just using treated tap water.

On another note, what's the pH of the water?

 

Possibly. This is the one case where I would think ammonia alone may not be enough. Nitrifiers do not need a carbon source, and they can definitely use the ammonia not only as an energy source but also as a nitrogen source. However, they still need other elements (phosphorus, sulfur, etc.) that may be too depleted when using RO/DI water.

For freshwater tanks, I'd definitely recommend just using treated tap water.

On another note, what's the pH of the water?

7-7.2 is what it's reading currently. Should I do a 50% water change to get rid of the RO/DI water and add the treated tap water?

 

I just set up my new 125 gallon tank and I am using RO/DI water (I thought it would work fine because I use it for top offs in my reef tank). I also does ammonia once and the ppm is at a solid 3-4 and its been that way for about five days. I added Fritz Turbostart 700 4 days ago to hopefully cycle my tank quicker. However, I haven't noticed any difference in Nitrites or ammonia since adding the Turbostart. I am getting worried that RO/DI water is stopping my tank from cycling. I need some opinions on this. Should I take out most of my water and replace it with treated tap water or should I just leave it and let it do its thing? Should I add some sort of minerals to the RO/DI water that would usually be in tap water? If someone could help me out on this one, that would be great.

I understand you used bottled bacteria, but not seeing nitrites after 5 days isn’t unusual. As a matter of fact, I’ve fully cycled a couple tanks without ever seeing nitrites.

Because there are a number of factors that can impact the effectiveness of bottled bacteria, our expectations for it are often too high IMO.

What is the water temperature of your tank? If this was my tank, I’d give it some time to do its thing.

 

I understand you used bottled bacteria, but not seeing nitrites after 5 days isn’t unusual. As a matter of fact, I’ve cycled a couple tanks without ever seeing nitrites.

Because there are a number of factors that can impact the effectiveness of bottled bacteria, our expectations for it are often too high IMO.

What is the water temperature of your tank? If this was my tank, I’d likely give it some time to do it’s thing.

The tanks temp is currently 80 degrees F.

 

The tanks temp is currently 80 degrees F.

Your pH and water temperature are fine.

Maybe just for my curiosity, why did you decide to use RO/DI?

 

7-7.2 is what it's reading currently. Should I do a 50% water change to get rid of the RO/DI water and add the treated tap water?

Yeah, sounds like a great idea. pH is fine so that's good.

 

Your pH and water temperature are fine.

Maybe just for my curiosity, why did you decide to use RO/DI?

I thought that it would be easier than using treated tap water because I already have the system for my reef tank. I didn't know I would have to add minerals or anything. Now I know it was a huge mistake.

 

Instead of changing out the water in the tank and removing the turbo start you can add the minerals to the tank now. I use Equilibrium others may use something else. You will have to research how much Equilibrium it will take for the 125 gallons of water already in the tank. It's a shame to have to buy a container of Equilibrium just to use one time though.

Maybe you could do a 50% water change. 50% tap water in the tank will add some minerals to the tank and it may be enough. Do all your top offs with tap water too and the top offs will add minerals.

Once the cycle is complete the only time you would use your RO water instead of tap water is for top offs.

 

Instead of changing out the water in the tank and removing the turbo start you can add the minerals to the tank now. I use Equilibrium others may use something else. You will have to research how much Equilibrium it will take for the 125 gallons of water already in the tank. It's a shame to have to buy a container of Equilibrium just to use one time though.

Maybe you could do a 50% water change. 50% tap water in the tank will add some minerals to the tank and it may be enough. Do all your top offs with tap water too and the top offs will add minerals.

Once the cycle is complete the only time you would use your RO water instead of tap water is for top offs.

Thank you for your suggestion I think Ill do the 50% water change. And I will be sure to use tap water for water changes. Thank you for your response.

 

The cycle in my new tank is going along well, I just have a few questions that I hope some of you can answer. I started by adding pure ammonia to my tank up to 4 ppm and fritz turbostart and then nothing goes up or down for about 2 weeks, then all the sudden my nitrite test kit shows dark purple. But the ammonia still appears to be at the same ppm, maybe a little less. As for nitrates, there might be a few, but the test is dark yellow. I thought the bacteria converts the ammonia to nitrite, so why is there still ammonia around?

 

Just give it time, the ammonia will go down eventually. Sometimes cycles just take a long time.

 

Just give it time, the ammonia will go down eventually. Sometimes cycles just take a long time.

I know it supposed to eventually I was just wondering why its barely gone down at all meanwhile the nitrites are skyrocketing.

 

I know it supposed to eventually I was just wondering why its barely gone down at all meanwhile the nitrites are skyrocketing.

mattgirl ?

 

I know it supposed to eventually I was just wondering why its barely gone down at all meanwhile the nitrites are skyrocketing.

1ppm ammonia converts to 2.7ppm nitrite. Say if your ammonia was 5ppm to begin with, it is possible for example that it decreased to 3ppm and only read as slightly less green, but that corresponds to an increase of 5.4ppm nitrite, which would then read as dark purple.

That's one possibility. Not exactly those numbers specifically, but something along those lines.

The other is that something is decomposing and producing ammonia even as some is being consumed. But that would imply well, you either added fish food, seafood from the deli, etc. or something is dying off like plants. I don't believe that any of these cases would apply to you, right?

 

As Azedenkae pointed out the ammonia may have been higher than you thought to begin with. Some ammonia has to have been processed for the nitrites to be this high.

Starting with ammonia this high wasn't necessary but it is what it is. Now it just needs time. Once it goes down to or close to zero I wouldn't get it any back up any higher than 2 ppm.

 

I currently am cycling my 125 gallon tank right now and I want some advice on what to do next. My current parameters are 0 ppm ammonia, 5 ppm Nitrites and what seems to be 10-15 ppm Nitrates. I also want to note that algae is starting to grow on the glass and on the sand. Should I add any ammonia now or should I just let the nitrites convert into nitrates then add some ammonia? (I added pure 10% ammonia at the beginning of my cycle and since then I have added fish food flakes.)

 

B.
Let the nitrite cycle out, and then give it the ammonia and 24 hour test

 

How much ammonia are you dosing?
How often?
How do you know you have 5ppm nitrite and not more than that?
When did you start this cycle?
Have you tested your tap water and what are those results?

 

How much ammonia are you dosing?
How often?
How do you know you have 5ppm nitrite and not more than that?
When did you start this cycle?
Have you tested your tap water and what are those results?

I only dosed ammonia at the beginning of my cycle about 3 weeks ago to get it up to 4 ppm. Then I added Fritz turbostart about a day later after adding the ammonia.
Since then I have not added pure ammonia and have only added fish flakes maybe 2-3 times.
I don't know if its more or less than 5 ppm, I would assume it is, but that's all the api test kit shows you.
The tap water is irrelevant to my situation.

 

Instead of starting a new thread it is best to just continue on the original thread until this 125 is cycled. By doing so all the information is in one place and we don't have to keep asking the same questions.

BTW: You can determine just how high the nitrites are by doing a dilution test. Start by adding half tank water and half source water in the test tube. If you still see 5ppm you will know the nitrites are up to 10. Keep changing the ratio of tank and source water until you get a readable number.

 

**Threads have been merged**

 

Instead of starting a new thread it is best to just continue on the original thread until this 125 is cycled. By doing so all the information is in one place and we don't have to keep asking the same questions.

BTW: You can determine just how high the nitrites are by doing a dilution test. Start by adding half tank water and half source water in the test tube. If you still see 5ppm you will know the nitrites are up to 10. Keep changing the ratio of tank and source water until you get a readable number.

Glad this was merged. I had no idea we were dealing with RO water.
Now things make more sense.

There's good advice in this thread.
I love the diluted api test trick, its very useful.

 

Glad this was merged. I had no idea we were dealing with RO water.
Now things make more sense.

There's good advice in this thread.
I love the diluted api test trick, its very useful.

I took out 50% of my RO water since that's what someone suggested, just so you know.

 

Ok just reading this and you’ve got great help already. Thing is cycles take time and patience is needed. Have you tested your tap water to see what your starting with? Many add tap to their ro water to get all your minerals back in.

 

I currently am cycling my 125 gallon tank right now and I want some advice on what to do next. My current parameters are 0 ppm ammonia, 5 ppm Nitrites and what seems to be 10-15 ppm Nitrates. I also want to note that algae is starting to grow on the glass and on the sand. Should I add any ammonia now or should I just let the nitrites convert into nitrates then add some ammonia? (I added pure 10% ammonia at the beginning of my cycle and since then I have added fish food flakes.)

I agree with LowConductivity. Wait until nitrite actually reads 0, then dose ammonia then.

 

Can a cycle get stuck at this stage, meaning the nitrites don't convert to nitrates? I'm not saying that my tank is doing this, I'm just curious.

 

Doubt it’s stuck it’s just taking time. It’s a 125g tank! What type of filter are you using?

 

Doubt it’s stuck it’s just taking time. It’s a 125g tank! What type of filter are you using?

I have two aquaclear 110 HOBs and a fx4

 

My nitrites are now at 0 and my nitrates are at around 10-20 ppm. Should I add 2 ppm of ammonia or should I do more?

 

My nitrites are now at 0 and my nitrates are at around 10-20 ppm. Should I add 2 ppm of ammonia or should I do more?

2ppm should be enough. It isn't going to hurt gradually increasing the amount of ammonia to grow more bacteria but normally 2ppm will grow enough.

 

How do I know when my tank is done cycling? Is it when I have nitrates, no nitrites and no ammonia? Is it when I can add ammonia and it is fully converted into nitrates the next day?

 

If your added ammonia is dropping to 0ppm with 24 hours, you have 0ppm nitrites and some nitrates, you are cycled.

 

How do I know when my tank is done cycling? Is it when I have nitrates, no nitrites and no ammonia? Is it when I can add ammonia and it is fully converted into nitrates the next day?

Yep, when ammonia is fully processed through to nitrates in 24 hours. Test results will be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and some level of nitrates.