110g Help!

Hey guys I have a thirst for information on my tank and what you guys think on a couple things.

110g
50 pounds live rock

Two hang on back filters with ammonia filter pad carbon filter socks phospate filters sponge filter two power head with filter connected. And another power head.

pH 8.1
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 10
Dkh 11
Calcium 560
Phosphate 1.
SG 1.024
Temp 80


Stocking

Maroon clown
ValentinnI puffer
Juvenile snowflake moray eel
Pink spotted goby
Mandarin dragonet
Sally Lightfoot crab
2 small hermit
6 snails misc

Condylactis anemone 5"
2 minI maxI carpet 4"


So I know my phosphate is super high, wondering what to get to lower it that's worth while. Calcium is also high not sure what to do with that info. Nitrate is a little high, is it to high? I know about my Mandarins diet requirement. And that my snowflake my eventually eat my crabs. And other small fish. Will deal with that when the time comes. My valentinnI was a rescue. And his teeth are out of control and he doesn't seem to want to pick on the snails he ate a hermit crab but not certain that the eel didn't get him first. Anything I can do to help with the teeth besides offering these ? And how should I go about feeding anemones they are new to the tank and I'm new to this all together. And anymore advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated! Thank you! And will be getting more equipment slowly considering sump and canister filters and which we want. Some input there would be amazing and a protein skimmer is our next investment.

 

Oh and also I have a tank long coralife t5 light with uvb? Bulbs and florescent? Plus a blue led that's always on? I have crushed coral as a substrate at least 3" deep.

 

I would say before you do anything else you NEED more live rock in there. 50lbs is woefully understocked for a 110 gallon tank with that kind of bioload (ideally at least 1lb per gallon of tank is recommended). The easiest way to lower your phosphates would be to add some GFO (Granulated Ferric Oxide) to one or more of your filters. Canister filters should be avoided in saltwater tanks as they are very prone to trapping nasties and becoming out of control nitrate factories. A sump is a great idea for a tank of that size, but unfortunately drilling a tank after it's filled simply isn't practical and overflow boxes can be a pain (ie siphon mechanism is prone to getting clogged). Lighting should be limited to around 8 hours a day total, if you don't want nuisance algae.

 

Okay awesome info. Also would you say there is more room in the tank for fish after sump is in place ? And corals too eventually.

 

Okay awesome info. Also would you say there is more room in the tank for fish after sump is in place ? And corals too eventually.

While a sump increases water flow volume and filtration it still doesn't change the fact that that fish will still have the same amount of elbowroom (aka space) in your display tank. Maroon Clowns can be downright terrors to ANY new additions once established and Puffers are known to nip fins. A One Spot Foxface would be a good addition to your tank as they are generally peaceful, but have venomous spines that they use for defense, which generally keeps more assertive fish at bay. I have a One Spot in my 90 gallon and when it was first introduced my Coral Beauty Dwarf Angel and Melanurus Wrasse tried to come over and say "Hey, this is our turf" The One Spot took one look at them and flared it's spines and the Coral Beauty and Melanurus quickly turned tail and went the other direction. Needless to say they got the message. Good news is that within a couple of days they were comfortable swimming with one another.

Here is the One Spot:

 

I've looked into those. And my clown can be a terror at feeding mostly he's not aggressive though just a pig. And my puffer doesn't really care about anybody thus far he's really docile and minds his own lol