I got some cyanobacteria in the summer because of all the extra light from the window and this worked to get rid of the worst of it. I reduced lighting period and increased ferts for plants a bit ( one that had nitrogen in it) until days got shorter again and it hasn't come back. My plants...
It doesnt break, doesnt need to be replaced or cleaned as often as polyfill as it doesnt clog up so fast and is easy to just rinse off, and finer sponge does great mechanical and biological filtration. Also cost effective as polyfill is usually replaced after some use
that's exactly what I was implying.. the water comes up from the bottom so coarse sponge is first in and on the bottom. And instead of poly I just use one extra fine sponge before bio-media and leave the poly out fully
Use vaseline on all the seals and moving parts whenever you open it; there is spray available or just buy tube from drug store of food grade white vaseline
To remove the buildup and to restore any cycle issues from medications, I would start of by doing 50% daily water change until nitrates are under 20ppm, then move to once a week when you can keep it there and then to either smaller weekly ones or bi weekly 50%. And do vacuuming at least weekly...
Here is an interesting article about different kinds of aquarium filter media with tests and results and cost-effectiveness of the different types regarding surface area and so on:
Rather feed less than more while you are away I agree. Better yet if you can get someone to visit your house once a week to see that everything is ok and update you..
Having an airpump/sponge filter that has battery run backup is great in case of any power failures to keep the water moving.
I just keep the fan on, on top of the tank, all the time.. I have no chance for the temp to drop under 75 indoors here at summer since it doesnt drop under 68 outside at nights either
I think it is okay to do gravel vac when needed, i just avoid doing it deeply right next to the plants and only on the surface. I try to vacuum on top of plants a bit to remove any debris/food on top of the leaves. If your nitrate and phospate stay low enough you could do water change less often...
How long do you have your lights on ? Are they on timer? Do you have more than normal natural light coming into your room (because of summer or so, since this can increase the light the tank gets compared to normal) ?
For start you can try complete blackout:
- Cover the tank for 3 days and only...
Prime is one of the best options since it's very concentrated even if it looks expensive
for the said api conditioner you need to use 5ml of it for every 2 gallon of water you change, and 5 ml of prime will treat 50 gallons instead
I get the said contact dermatitis from wood dust but have not experienced any with my aquarium logs.. Mine were bought second hand tho so they had been submerged for years before I got them so maybe that's why they were not giving me any issues
Freeze dried treats make it happen sometimes for me, having enough water movement to break the surface lessens the accumulation of the oily layer and also feeding less. Often its mostly from protein and fat from fish foods.
There are also skimmers that can be used for fixing the issue.
Here is a...
Bacterial blooms sometimes appear suddenly and go away as fast after a while like Stargirl said. I would say just take a cup of your favourite beverage and wait patienly for few days.
It should go away by itself so changing more water is not needed and it's not harmful.
"Bacterial blooms are...
Trekkers suggestions are great.
Limnophila sessiliflora (dwarf ambulia) is one very commonly used very fast growing stem plant in my country. I have had these from the start and they have grown in all my tanks like weed..
Some other ones I'd look into are various rotalas and ludwigias that also...
Just remember to stick the root tabs inside the gravel when you get them and you are good. With the liquid I would start with the instructions of the bottle. Everything looks good
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