Search results

I am selling 15+ ‘stem/bunch’ packs for $20. This includes a $10 priority flat rate box. Your package will likely contain more than 15. I feel this is a good number to start a good sized area. If you need a large pack (3x what is offered) we can work something out. These are very healthy Dwarf...

The problem is pretty simple - the tank is not cycled. Make sure you use lots of dechlorinator that also makes ammonia safe. You need to read up on a fish in cycle. Ammonia reading zero doesn’t mean anything if there was nothing ever in the tank and you weren’t adding ammonia to cycle it...

Looks like Stag horn

Purigen removes organic materials similar to carbon (chemical) and matrix is a bio filter so yes they can be used together. I don’t see an issue with the routine, I assume you means you’ll be water changing during cycle. Long as you use your prime with each change I actually recommend water...

Ultralife blue green slime remove will get rid of it, is not an antibiotic, and you don’t need to remove carbon if you need it. Light is casing that green spot algae and low flow is causing the bacteria. Those are causes, things like nutrients are simply the fuel.

I don’t add ferts until the plants ask for it. I also use Fluval 3.0. The sunrise and sunset is for the fish (or aesthetics) not the plants. They just need a short while to adjust. I’d change the 2.5 hours to 15 minutes and the 7 hours to 5 and with that tank - it’s not filled out or fully...

Multiple types in those pics. There is absolutely no purpose in replacing the plants without finding what the issue is and all I know is poor water flow/circulation at this point but because you have many different kinds there is likely a boatload of issues going on. Personally if you can move...

Addressing the cause of the nitrates, 1/2 a tbsp everyday is too much food for 4 fish and 25% every two weeks is too little. Feed two small pinches a day (maybe 1/4 TBSP) and change 50% of the water once a week with dechlorinator. To answer the question, personally I’d change 40% now, then 40%...

I agree with the leave them in. I love them. They really help keep things clean. In fact, they are my favorite cleaners even over my SAEs. Your feeding is directly related to the population. You could drop a couple slices of veggies in and attract some to get rid of if they get completely out of...

I felt kind of the same way back in 08 after almost a decade of fishkeeping and breeding (though it was furthest from the truth). My advice if you still have the desire/passion, go to saltwater…or brackish. It’s like a whole new world. I still had tons to learn when I left salt and corals...

How long is your light on?

BGA (not actually an algae) is extremely hard to stop from coming back without intervention. The biggest factors are low flow COMBINED with light. Nitrates alone will not cause it, only contribute to it when combined with low flow and light. It also loves sunlight. Low flow + light = BGA...

Definitely phosphate.

I have 6 guppies, 4 mollies, 4 platies and 3 swords all in the same tank for months with zero aggression. Even with less females than male for some. But as someone with a lot of experience with livebearers I can tell you this is an exception not a rule. That said there really are no solid...

In the wild they live with sharp gravel. I’m not sure who came up with this myth, but it’s more often bad water quality that affects barbels. Care guides here Corydoras Forum

I have used an in tank diffuser, reactor and inline. I absolutely LOVE the in-line the best. Best of all worlds. Sure no bubbles with the reactors are nice, but they can be finicky with flow etc. I do still have one. The atomizers have less bubbles than an in-tank (but still noticeable) but...

I agree with the turn down lights and zero nutes. 9 days, you’ll come back to some algae if not. If you can’t adjust light you could leave it off altogether. Plants might get leggy and what not but they’ll bounce back and it’ll be easier getting them back to health than deal with algae IMO.

I assume the tank is cycled and dechlorinator was used. I’m not sure what kind of albinos you have and there isn’t much to go on, but my albinos were much happier at 74-75 temps. They weren’t breathing as fast. Also very important to acclimate them with small bits of tank water before putting...

It’s mainly due to low flow and light. That is why it often takes over the sides of the substrate where there is light and no flow. As already mentioned by MattGril, the UltraLife BG slime remover is fantastic. I have hear of chmiclean and antibiotic work too but I have not needed to try as the...

Not true at all. You need to adjust the fish to your parameters, perhaps even more important than temperature. Just plop and dropping is very bad practice and the parameter shock will contribute to stress and disease. I do it differently than the above post but adding water, take some out...