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I’ve had my canisters since 05, they will leak if you never service them, one of the main reasons I love them is you only have to open them a few times a year and it takes approximately 15 minutes to clean. They hold more media than any hob can and filter the water better, most hobs have water...

Give fluval a call, I’d bet they will send you new ones for free, in the meantime make sure you keep your bio media wet and hopefully you have a spare hob or sponge filter or even an air stone on hand?

Brand new tank? Make sure to do a water change to keep ammonia below .25 while your filter is down, any established media you can get a hold of?

What filter brand? As said above “grinding” sounds like it’s not primed, fill the filter with tank water and top off the tank, should be able to prime it pretty easily.

Get a big hob filter or canister and just cut the matten filter up and stuff it in the new filter, problem solved!

The problem you are having is when you do a wc you are not closing the valves on the intake side, hence you lose prime every time you do one. Which canister filter is it? Almost every can I have seen has a quick stop valve, all you need to do is turn the can off, shut the valve off and go about...

When the primer button no longer works the best way to get it to prime is to have it empty, hoses and all and suck on the output, or if you have a pump you could use that, al you need to do is get the input water over the curve and gravity will do the rest.

Is your other tank established? If it’s somewhat mature you can take a good amount of filter media and put it into your new filter and have an almost instant cycle, just stay on top of water changes, neons are notoriously weak fish. Good luck, tank looks nice!

You really can’t blame a filter on water clarity, a 5 dollar sponge filter can keep water looking clear, do you know for sure you weren’t going through some sort of algae or bacterial bloom? I know the ac’s can be finicky when restarting but that also depends on water level, lower levels of...

Have you tried running it without the pre filter? I had the same issue, I thought the pores were course enough but it turned out it was the pre filter.

It’s most definitely the pre filter l, you’ll probably need a more coarse foam, too fine of a foam and you will have to wring it out every few days

You don’t really need to have the canister full of water to get it to prime, as long at the input side is full of water and the input is in the water in the tank you should be able to open the tap and let gravity do the rest. If you cannot get the input side full of water there is always a fool...

Unless you can produce a 14 gallon rimless cube from 5 gallon tanks id say you were right

How low will you be keeping the water level in the 29? You might have to somehow make the input air tight, I’ve seen others have trouble with canisters and turtle tanks. Might want to ask in a turtle section/Forum, see what others are using

You could always try to run it without the media to rule that out, i probably wouldn’t do a wc with the filter running if you’re changing more than a 25% of the water, it could potentially cause air to get in the filter and cause problems.

Yes what exactly are you referring to “Popping” off?

How’s the flow without the pre filter?

The Eheim Mech works amazingly! It catches soooo much large debris, it doesn’t float so throw it in the bottom of your can If you have space.

Only problem with that is that turning the filter off will not stop it from leaking, might actually be worse depending if it’s leaking at the motor head Or not, some people drill a small hole on the intake pipe avoid a total Tank drain. Putting it in a bin should help some like you want to do...

Sounds like it’s not primed, a fool proof way of priming any canister is to have it completely empty, both in and out hoses as well, take the output hose and suck on it while it’s Installed and let gravity do the work, once it’s filled make sure the out pipe is put back and try turning it on. I...