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I'd suggest a 40 breeder over a 20L because the footprint gives you more adequate options for land/basking area....plus the added water volume will help with waste production. It is a common size that is small enough to be used in various applications. Though I'm sure they'd love a 60 breeder...

If you cannot find them locally, I second Josh's frogs as mentioned above. Google search for "reptile stores near me" to see what local businesses are around. Call them to see if/what they have. Also search for local expos and meets. Monthly reptile expos usually have a few vendors in that just...

Have you considered redoing the terrarium? Do you have a false bottom/drainage layer? These are the two questions I have asked myself when I was not getting the results I wanted. I get the sense that you want to continue to keep plants, so you may have to change your approach to keeping the...

From what I understand, ADFs can handle a broad range of parameters given that they are kept stable. Their native range includes central Africa, and to my current understanding varies in water hardness from soft to hard water. 300 on the higher end. Provided you either replace top off water with...

The call isn't loud at all. You could mistake it for a internal pump beginning to go bad as in my case. I would go with larger gravel. When they eat they use a sucking action, so they can suck up sand when going after food, get impacted and die. Down side to large gravel is food can get stuck...

Hey all, I'm thinking about potentially setting up a second pond. The location I plan on putting it has no access to power and was wondering if anybody had recommendations for solar powered pumps. I cannot decide if I want to buy a solar pump from amazon or buy a panel from Harbor Freight. If...

In my opinion, fiberglass screen should work just fine. Fiberglass screen is actually used in many applications involving contact with water. It is used vastly in bioactive terrariums as a way to create a barrier between soil and the drainage layer. It should hold up for a while before breaking...

Glad you found the one for you. Unfortunate about his fins though. As mentioned before, with clean water it should resolve on its own. I have heard that it is not uncommon for fins to become a little torn after shipping. Long finned betas can easily tear their fins during shipping by thrashing...

My best advice to you is to go vertical. Look up on youtube how to build aquarium stands. Make two with 2x4s, paint them. This way you can get away with having two in your room. Plus you could take the other stand to college or just make one and take it back and forth. This will be particularly...

OMG yes, I fixed it! lol I wanted to try AquaClear, but I know it will burn out from running dry after a storm. My QuietFlow doesn't really run dry now that I have moved the tank with the rest and put a lid on. I am interest in finding out how long it runs. I'm surprised it has lasted this long...

I think the Aqueon Quiet Flows are nice. My original is only 8yrs old and has ran dry on several occasions from the water level dropping. Despite this abuse it is still quiet when properly filled. It's the only HOB style I have used. I like that it starts itself back up after a power outage...

Good PAR measurements are taken at multiple depths. The first being at the surface of the water (about 3inches below most lights, then in the middle of the water column or at the substrate. So usually at 12in. and 16-18in. for most tanks. I am not familiar with Hygger lights. I do have a heater...

Nah, you'll be fine with the tetras. You have been dosing 1ppm ammonia per day. The tank will more than handle the waste from 4 ember tetras and their food. Honestly I'm at a loss when you say the tank is uncycled with the last set of pics. It looks like the ammonia is zero, which it should be...

Sort of...it would more less average out. Adding a second light is done to get a more homogenous spread of light to eliminate dark areas for plants. Yes adding another light fixture would increase PAR, but only a little bit as the extra light just helps the darker areas the light from the first...

So I'm going to try to paste a link to a chart I was looking at earlier when looking over some of the popular options over here in the states. A 48" light strip isn't going to be cheap no matter the option, but if you want a wider plant variety then you are going to need stronger lighting...

That's just a little guy. When I do cuttings it usually takes about 2 months for them to start vining out. Try giving it a little more/stronger sun and see what happens.

In short PAR is the measurement for photosynthetic available radiation. In other words it is the amount of light available that allows plant to grow. Another way of putting it...PAR is not quantity of light, but rather quality. You can have a super bright light that puts out a lot of lumens...

I find the best way to get pothos to grow is to give it a little extra nutrients, either fertilizer or poopy water (from the fish of course!) and a good bit of light. My potted pothos gets blasted by the evening sun through the windows and grows much faster than the pothos I kept on my tank.

Depends on the kind of chemical. In the case of ATBs (antibiotics), no. The plants should be fine. Furan is fine in powder form. It will not hurt you unless you snort it. Just use general precaution, clean up any spilled powder with a damp towel and wash your hands off. The danger and caution...

Honestly you should be fine. I've started up multiple tanks with splitting old filter media with new 50/50. It looks like you carried over all of it. I have not had a problem with this method. I do not even ghost dose ammonia anymore because my media comes from a mature filters (1-2+ yrs old)...