My amazon sword rots/yellows/browns at the tip when it reaches a certain height. I learned that problems in older leaves are NPK related, so I am dosing flourish Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium daily. I know this is some sort of macro deficiency just which one in particular I am unsure
Anyone have experience with Kenya trees? I have a small frag in my 16 gallon bowfront, it won’t grow, and it’s only ever partially open (it’s not closed, but it’s never open to it’s full extent)
It’s in an area with high flow, and I feed reef roids thrice a week. I know there’s stories of...
Seems like a deficiency in all the macronutrients (n,p,k). Cut off all the dying leaves since the dying leaves are hogging the nutrients to repair themselves, starving the remaining healthy leaves in turn starving them too. Feeding/ light schedule??
I have a 29 gallon planted tank (very low tech, no co2, average light). The ph seems to be always at the max threshold on the API test kit kit chart which seems to be 7.8 maybe even 8. this seems very adnormal for a freshwater system given I do nothing whatsoever that could buffer the tank. It...
The leaves grow to a normal size before dying, no change in maximum growth size, I figured the N and P would sustain if I just fed fish frequently and the N and P would be derived from fish food / waste. I use regular black pet store sand and capped with pea gravel I add flourish root tabs every...
What supplements do you recommend dosing in a nano reef?
1 royal gramma
Aqua Knight led
I currently want to speed up growth in general . I broadcast feed reef roids once a week. I am considering trying the seachem line of reef supplements. I...
So I know that API test kit reagaents have a 2-4 year life span in the bottle, but are there storage methods that can dictate the longevity of the chemicals? My bottles (specifically pH and nitrate) say 2022, but my reagents already have signs of expiration according to my results I’m getting...
Is keeping zoas on the frag base it came on from the lfs make it more difficult to spread onto the hardscape, like will it leave the base eventually? I purchased a colony with roughly 12 polyps on it it’s been since January and it’s yet to colonize enough to leave the frag base
I have an amazon sword with roughly 7 leaves. Each week a new leaf will emerge from the center.
Once that leaf grows, an older leaf will turn yellow/clear. I am trying to get the sword thick and bushy with leaves but it can’t exceed 7 leaves without melting.
Tank is a 29g with standard t8...
Diatoms are a sign your tank is concluding its cycle. When a tank is cycling it is trying to balance itself out on its own which is why parameters and algae will be all over the place. Hence no real reason to remove diatoms by hand as they are just one of many phases
I have battled diatoms and green algae in my 16 gallon for months and I started using rodi water and have been on it for 2 months now. The diatoms have subsided but The live rock has remained covered in green algae. any thing I can do to get rid of it?
My tank has been running for about 3 years and everything’s been stable until now. My nitrite has been 0 for those years and now it suddenly 1.0 ppm. Yesterday I was doing regular maintenance. I run an aquaclear 50 and once a month I squeeze the condensed organic matter out of the foam block...
I have 2 clownfish, a crab, and a bangaii cardinal. The male clown is always swimming up high by the heater all the time and barely spends time with its tank mates down by the rock work. Anything I can change to get a more social and behavior out of him?
I have a 29 gallon standard with 1 Bolivian ram, 6 serpae tetras, and 4 white skirt tetras. I want it to be affordable and easy to find. If no non schooling catfish will fit in my setup, then I'll probably get some cories but plz give suggestions
Electric blue acara gets over 8 inches (I've seen one that big in lfs) and 55 may seem big enough but in reality it's not. I suggest either apistogramma caucatoides or Bolivian rams. Both hardy and peaceful. I'd get a pair or even a pair of each
In my 29 gallon tank I have
4 white skirt tetras
6 serpae tetras
2 Bolivian rams
My serpae tetras are kinda on the fat side. It's kinda bothering me because it's getting me concerned about their health. What I feed is
Omega one super color flakes
Tetra blood worms
SAEs are that type of fish in which they like to be in big groups (not necessarily a "school") but they do just fine on their own. False SAEs are the same case, despite their species difference. Angelfish are a great example of that. So I recommend keeping just one alone or a group of 4+
Two of my serpae tetras look a little fat on the stomach area unlike the others it's school. Is this disease or the overall characteristic of the individual fish?
Because I feed the tank properly (I don't over feed)
Do you think it's dropsy?
I would do do a pair of apistos over the rams or kribs, because and more hardy and peaceful then the other options, 6 white skirt tetras (black variants are great also), 8 neon tetras, and the cories should do great in a group of 6 instead of 5. For "unusual fish" I would try 3 honey gouramis...