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The whole reason for to qt tank is to test the fih for disease in the 1st place. Some medications, especially antiparacitics, can cause stress unnecessarily. You also can't use a lot of medications with snails or shrimp. And unless you buy fish alot, you may also be wasting money on treatments...

Get youself a gravel vacuuming hose from your petshop. Vacuum your water changes from the gravel always when you do water changes so you will get fish poop and uneaten food out of the tank. If any filter sponges or other media in your filter starts to get full, clean by vigorously shaking and...

Missing scales and open wounds are very susceptible to infection and fungus. YOU NEED TO SEPERATE these fish whether it's with a tank divider or otherwise asap to protect the oscar. Don't worry about each ones territory being smaller. Either divide that tank or lose that oscar. Your idea for...

Treat him with Furan or something else for columnaris asap.

I've been researching symptoms of diseases again. Although white poop is usually paracites, it is also a symptom of columnaris. So is taking in food and spitting it out. 90% of all columnaris cases show some outward symptoms, but 10% don't until the fish dies. At this point, you've already...

Do you think he posssibly ate one?

Ok. But some of them were convincingly looking like hydra. The only curiosity I had was about your camera because they did look rather large for hydra.

That's in total agreement to what I said except I forgot to mention that it's the unattached offspring that actually gets killed by the medication.

I agree with warm water just because bettas like 82 degrees. Screw the salt unless you're going to eat it and get some laboratory tested antiparacitic medication that kills a deadly paracite known as ich. You follow directions on the package, kill the ich, and save the betta that is currently...

Sure looks enough like ich enough to me that it's exactly what I would be treating it and the entire tank for right now.

They both need to go, unless that's what your intending to grow. Hydra aren't so bad. They eat small protozoa and diatoms. The planaria are paracites...very similar to flukes. Just out of curiosity, is the tank you've been showing us fillid with water that you collected from a pond or lake?

My tap water has 20 ppm nitrates, but my tank only has 5ppm because of water changea AND Potkos cutting in the back of the tank I put in months ago. The fish like the roots too.

Whether you have water droplets from an airstone or not, your still going to get condensation droplets. The extra air being put on the tank between the lid and water surface is actually healthy for your fish.

In my overly angelfish tank I mentioned a dominant male that kept the other 4 cornered. Sometimes on of the cornered ones would come out and fight so violently with the dominant one in such a fast swirling motion that made me wonder why they didn't cause a whirlpool in the water. But the...

It may be helpful in the establishment of terratory. But you mentioned that it happens during feeding time. That's another instinct in territorial fish...to protect their food supply.

It's good. A lot of bottles found in supermarkets are clear and just say ammonia on the front. But if you read the ingredients, they say ammonia and surfactants. Your's is just ammonia.

My tap water has 20ppm nitrates coming from the tap, but my aquarium stays around 5ppm because of water changes along wit the Pothos cuttings I have rooted and growing from the back of my tank. Plants do help alot. Here is a pic of the back of my tank 7 months ago.

Good idea. Try giving him giving him the food and immediately get out of his sight. They tend to be more timid about eating when they don't feel up to par.

Check it again. You may just be developing a higher cycle that filtration hasn't caught up with yet.

So based on it's deminsions, the tank your selling is 4.34 gallons.