au01st

Stepping up with the big boys, as dosing is no longer meeting requirements (well it is, but it's getting too expensive).

Got this bad boy for $40. It came with a MJ-400 and it leaked. I swapped it for a 600, replaced all the tubing, sealed a crack and it works great. Leak tested for 24 hours just to make sure. Not a bad deal.

I'm getting a Reefkeeper Lite Level 3 next week and it will control the reactor so if the pH gets too high it will turn the reactor off.

Anyone know how to convert 1/4" Polyethylene tubing (for use with John Guest fittings) into standard airline hose like that from an Aqualifter pump?


Check it out!

Matt

Looks good

-Matt

au01st

Already solved the hose problem. Supposedly the PEX tube will fit on the Aqualifter pump as it's a bit more flexible than rigid airline and more stiff than flexible air line.

Still gotta wait on the RKL to get here though...gonna be sweet and way more automated!

Matt

Cant wait to hear about the effects of the Kalk reactor on your tank

-Matt

au01st

Woot woot! Ordered the Reefkeeper Lite Level 3 which comes with 8 controllable outlets and a module that monitors PH, Temp, and ORP. Also ordered an RO/DI cutoff solenoid 4 electronic float switches and 2 aqualifter pumps. There will be a float switch in the RO/DI container connected to the solenoid that activates every 3.5 days for 3 hours to fill up the top off conatiner (storage container is 6 gallons, I evap <1.5 GPD, may need some fine tuning, but this should keep me in fresh supply of RO/DI water). 2 float switches will go in the sump, one at the desired level and one at the top to make sure if the first one fails, the second one shuts off the top off pump. During the day time straight RO/DI will be used as top off and at night RO/DI will be forced through the kalk reactor for top off with the PH monitor to turn off the dosing pump if PH > 8.4.

Basically what all this means, is that I won't have to do any top off maintenance except for adding kalk to the reactor every few weeks, it should all stay automated as long as there's power, AND my total water volume won't fluctuate by more than 1/2 gallon at most. The temperature will also be more stable with a 400watt and 250watt heater in the sump and 4 3" fans above the tank for evaporation cooling, it should stay right at 78.5 +/- .3 degrees.


Now if I can just find a 90 or 110 gallon tank I'll be set. Yeah, I'm already looking to upgrade. I got the tank used and couldn't see a large scratch with standard fluorescent lights that is bright as day under T5's and right in the middle of the viewing area. That and being 6'4", I have to bend down to see everything in my tank, especially my precious zoas on the sand bed, and since I'm looking to go more LPS like brains and acans, that will only get worse. The new stand is currently 32" tall, and I plan to add 6" risers (2x6's directly underneath with a nice decorative covering so it looks "normal"). Combine that with a 4" DSB and it should put the sandbed level at about 42" or so. I won't have to upgrade lights with the 90 as the DSB will give me roughly the same water depth but have benefits of a DSB.


Just think, all this money would otherwise have been spent on beer for this college student...

Mike

Very nice. Hopefully it will save you some dough in the long run.

Hee he.