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Saltwater Fish Disease Forum - Saltwater Fish Disease Chart, Quarantine Tank Setup

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Old December 1st, 2008  
Fish Lore Newbie
 
ich ???

two days ago i bought a wild true percula clown. he looked fine at the store. drip acclimated him for 2.5 hours that night and put him into my tank. next morning he had white spots all over but 2 hours later they were all gone. this morning he has a few white spots again not nearly as many but still a few. i dont think he has eaten at all yet. i tried to feed him some marine pellets but i havent seen him eat. do you think this is ICH or something else? what should i do?
keish24 is offline  
Old December 1st, 2008  
Fish Keeper
 
do they move around under the skin if so its ich ..
if he is not feeding try leaveing the lights off for 24-48 hrs as this can reduce stress for them ,,,
where does he sleep in the sand might be sand or salt as ich dont dissapear 2 hrs later
nemo addict is offline  
Old December 1st, 2008  
Fish Lore Newbie
 
he sleeps kind of in the rocks by my rbta....or at least he did last night. he isnt very active. just kind of hangs out in the same spot for a while and then will move over a bit and hang out there quite a while. i cant tell if the white spots are moving under the skin or not. i am going to go get a magnifing glass and see if i can tell with that.
keish24 is offline  
Old December 1st, 2008  
Fish Keeper
 
Heres a bit of info on ich copper treatment would need to be done in a QT tank as it would kill inverts and corals


Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans)

Symptoms: Salt-like specks on the body/fins. Rubbing or scratching against decor or substrate, Excessive slime. Problems breathing (ich invades the gills), Frayed fins, Loss of appetite, Cloudy eyes, Abnormal swimming.

Marine ich or white spot disease is one of the most common maladies experienced in the marine aquarium, with the other being Marine Velvet. This protozoa has four phases to its life, lasting up to 38 days depending on the temperature of the environment. This parasite affects marine and brackish fish.
Aquarists are most familiar with the stage where the protozoa is infesting the host, the small white spots similar to a sprinkling of salt on the fish's body and fins. Unfortunately this visual clue is also the reason for difficulty in eradicating marine ich. Once the parasite has left the host's body many aquarists believe their fish is cured and the problem is solved and so they cease treatment, only to have another larger reoccurrence.

For eradication treatment must be carried through to completion, so understanding the parasite's life cycle will greatly increase your chances of success. The life cycle is outlined here:

Trophont phase - when the parasite is growing in the skin or gills of the fish it appears as small white nodules, and the fish begins showing signs of irritation. It will spend 5 to 7 days (depending on the temperature) feeding on the fish. Once it reaches maturity it leaves the fish, reportedly after the lights go out. It is now called a protomont.
Protomont phase - the protomont will free swim or will crawl about the substrate for several hours (2 to 18 hours) producing a sticky wall around itself with which it is able to adhere to a surface. Once it adheres it begins to turn into a cyst and is now called a tomont.
Tomont phase - at this stage there is rapid cell divisions occurring, resulting in hundreds of daughter parasites that are called tomites. This stage can last anywhere from 3 to 28 days. Eventually the tomites hatch and begin swimming about looking for a host and are now called theronts.
Theront phase - newly hatched, they are swimming about looking for a host which they must find within 24 hours or they will die. Once a host is found they turn into trophonts and the whole cycle begins anew.

The life cycle of this parasite can vary dramatically and is dependent on temperature, they cycle faster in a warmer environment. Ideally the parasite would be eliminated while on the host or shortly after leaving the host. However, those that are buried in the gills are immune to treatment until they leave the fish. This along with the variability of the cycle makes it difficult to treat in a timely manner.
So to rid the aquarium of this protozoa, it is recommended that you use a combination of water changes and chemical treatment, a multiple number of times.

Chemical treatments for this disease include using copper, formalin, or a combination of copper and formalin. Follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
Natural methods include either a quarantine tank with a low salinity (hyposalinity) or large frequent water changes. For low salinity keep the specific gravity of the water at approximately 1.009-1.010 with temperatures of 78 - 80° F (25 - 27° C) for 14 days. A danger with with using low salinity is in re-acclimating the fish to a higher salinity. You must be able to accurately measure the salinity and must increase it very slowly. For the water change method, replace 50% of the aquarium water daily for 14 days. This is perfectly safe method as long as temperature and salinity are the same, and this will remove the parasites while in a free swimming stage.
Reportably some healthy fish can develop a limited immunity. This immunity is short-lived lasting only about six months and may not be a total immunity, being a small amount of infestation rather than extensive infestation.
nemo addict is offline  
Old December 1st, 2008  
Fish Lore Newbie
 
anyone know if ich attack works well??
keish24 is offline  
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