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So I've had my tanks up for some time now(over 2 months) and I have some brown algae growth on my live rocks and glass. Not huge amounts, but definitely growing. I clean the glass to keep the tank looking nice with a floating magnet cleaner. But basically my question is... is brown algae normal and something I just let grow, or do I need to manage it somehow, and if so, how do I manage it?
I did recently purchase a few urchins(blue tuxedo, black long spine, and pencil) and also 2 starfish. I am hoping they will help clear some algae and prevent further growth.
It is pretty normal for a new tank (and 2 months is still pretty new). It will not hurt anything, but for your viewing pleasure you probably want to keep cleaning periodically until it comes under control. You can help by reducing nutrients in the water (don't overfeed), and managing light (tank lights on a strict schedule, tank away from bright windows). Watch the urchins as they can move around/knock over live rock. You might also consider a few snails.
It is pretty normal for a new tank (and 2 months is still pretty new). It will not hurt anything, but for your viewing pleasure you probably want to keep cleaning periodically until it comes under control. You can help by reducing nutrients in the water (don't overfeed), and managing light (tank lights on a strict schedule, tank away from bright windows). Watch the urchins as they can move around/knock over live rock. You might also consider a few snails.
Thanks for the reply. So you are saying that overtime the algae growth will slow and kind of even out? It isn't yet 'out of control' but I have started noticing it showing up all over the rocks and glass. I can't put in snails or hermit crabs; urchins are about my only choice. The reason being, this tank houses 2 eels, lionfish, triggerfish, puffers. So snails/crabs = food.
I do have a sump/refugium(10 gallon tank split into sections) attached to this tank, which I hoped would cause most of the algae to grow there(it has the light on 20 hours a day as compared to 10 hours on my main tank)... is 10 hours to long for the main tank light? I also put a pencil urchin on either side of the 10 gallon tank, one in the 'sump' and one in the 'refugium' to help control excessive growth. There is much more algae growth in the sump/refugium than the main tank.
I check my water quality often and it currently has 0 nitrites/ammonia and under 30ppm nitrates. I do 5gallon water changes every couple days.
Last edited by Earthling84; September 9th, 2008 at 12:21 AM.
A new tank will often go through a couple different phases of growth...diatoms/brown algaes are typically first, later you may see some green film and/or hair. While this is normal, I don't mean to say you should be completely passive about it...just don't panic. To elaborate on some of what I was saying before...excess nutrients in the tank are a food source for algae. "Nutrients" include among other things, phosphates and nitrates. Phosphates can be kept under control by using RO water or phosphate absorbing filter media. Nitrates can be kept under control by water changes, anaerobic bacteria, or by deliberately cultivating macroalgae (which you can sort of think of as marine plants and will consume the nitrates, thereby depriving the nuisance algae of a food source). So you could, for instance, use RO water and keep an amount of cheatomorpha (macroalgae) in your sump or refugium as a 2 prong approach to keep nutrients from building up in your tank. At the same time, by restricting your lighting, you can inhibit the nuisance algae's ability to photosynthesize, further hampering its ability to grow. I personally would reduce your main tank lighting to about 8 hours, although 10 hours is not by any means ridiculous...lots of people run their lights that long.
BTW...sounds like you are doing a great job so far monitoring your water and researching compatibility!
As you can t get a CUC in there due to your stock try and get a phosphate reactor for your sump and as long as its maintained will keep your algea right down
thanks for the replies. I have shortened my lighting down to 7 hours on the main tank, and I will be trying to find one of these phosphate reactors. I haven't really heard of these, if you have a link to a good one so I could see an example that would be great.
there are 2 types a media and a fluidized i would go with the media this also helps with nitrates to i dont have a link look on ebay if you have a account or google it for supplier in the usa (i live uk)
I found these 2 things. and have ordered them. do they seem to be correct? I plan on putting them in my canister filter. I purchased 2 different types(pads and media) for the fact that I want to use this in multiple tanks. I figure the pads will be best for my nano tank as I can cut them to fit into my 'mini' canister on my nano tank. Then I plan on using the pads and/or just the media in my larger tanks canister. Any extra I'll use in my freshwater tanks filters, or save and use when needed in my SW tanks.
I have both. My freshwater tanks even have a sump and refugium ;o
but yes, my SW tank has a sump / refugium(tank dividied into sections attached.
Here is a video to see my setup -
that vid is when I just setup the sump so it looks kinda empty. it has a section for a 'refugium' filled with plants algae now and also a LOT more bio material on the left compartment.
The reason I would put the 'pads' in the canister is they seemed like they would fit nicely in there and get the most direct flow. I would then put bags of the bio media perhaps in the sump.
Last edited by Earthling84; September 11th, 2008 at 09:12 AM.
well google or look on ebay for phosphate reactors and look for the media type and they can be added in your sump rather then just small amount in you filter
yes they kind of look like a protein skimmer right? I have a protein skimmer but not a phosphate reactor. They seem to be fairly expensive, but so are protein skimmers. I might look more into adding one, but first I'll probably try the things I listed above.
thanks for the link. And the price isn't all that bad. I will do more research on these and probably buy one soon. I'll start with using the pads/media on my filter/sump until I do more research and purchase a phosphate reactor.
Thanks for your replies and informing me about these phosphate reactors which I didn't even know existed!
no problems when maintained keeps all levels to zero (well the ones you want at zero) i havent done a water change for 3 months had no drops or spikes all other levels ok too
I wouldn't recommend going so long without a water change, particularly with a reef setup, if for no other reason than water changes replenish consumed elements. Just my
i am adding trace elements and testing for calcium ect general hardness and other things my corals are thriveing and my xenia has split several times and growing in different parts of my tank this is just a test as the main reason for water changes is to remove nitrates and my chaeto and miracle mud is doing a good job of this along with my phosphate reactor and skimmer (only 4 hrs aday) i use coral a b c additives and is doing fine until i have problems i am not doing a water change just topping up with ro and its a lot at the moment . you spend so much time getting your water right then you change it ,, but as soon as i get bad readings or the fish or corals look like they are having problems then i will start doing water changes
probably shouldn't wait until you notice the fish or corals 'look like they are having problems'(if they appear stressed, they are stressed, and their life span is for sure reduced). Do frequent tests of water and if any levels go up, even slightly, then start the changes.
But I agree you can probably do less water changes if you have the right equipment. But 3 months seems a little excessive.
i am trying different ways i am setting up my other tank with the turf filter which says no water changes or loss ov nutirants on my 2nd tank but its been more stable then when i was doing water changes and i have more growth then before and not bad stuff either my friend who is guiding me through this has done 2 water changes in as many years and mine is setup very simlar to his and he has a thrieving tank fish and corals so lets see how it goes there are many people out there not doing water changes and have been very sucsessful as those the do weekly water changes ,, i am doing water changes on my 2nd tank and comparing so if i do get difficulties i can transfer over and reset other tank
no problems when maintained keeps all levels to zero (well the ones you want at zero) i havent done a water change for 3 months had no drops or spikes all other levels ok too
When you finally do a water change, please let us know how your livestock are doing for atleast the first two weeks, I'm curious to know how ALL your pets do afterwards. THANKS
i still have not done a water change my fish are fine my corals are going mad and all my readings execpt phosphates are zero i have 0.5 phosphate so going to change media this weekend i have a HOB refugium coming this weekend and removing it from the sump as i have to much equipment in the sump now and finding it hard to clean with all the cheato and Caulerpa in my sump ,
my fish are very lively and corals doing well all test good ,,
i do top up with ro water 3-4 times a week and keep salt levels up if they drop ,
my friends tank has been running for a few years and has not had a water change for over a year and he has hard corals and fish and all doing fine i do test more often then i was at first (due to being paranoid) as i dont wont o loose my fish (water is crystal clear) if it aint brke dont fix it
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i dont have a link look on ebay if you have a account or google it for supplier in the usa (i live uk)
or just cannister filters 
