matt6765

I am going to get a 29 gallon bio-cube and I was wondering what I should put in it...... I want a clown fish, a feather duster and some hermit crabs.... what else could I put in it?

cerianthus

Most importantly live rock before fish. When all are ready, can add firefish, cardinals gobys, filament wrasse, cubicus (need to research before choosong its tankmate), shrimps, oysters, even some corals depending on lighting. A endless possibilities.
Before buying fish, think of equipments then think of livestock which your tank can accomodate!

matt6765

Oh dont worry...... I wont get any fish for another 6 month estimate...... I have to get the money to get all the stuff......

harpua2002

The stock lighting in a Biocube is adequate for many soft corals and some of the easier LPS corals. Mushrooms and zoanthids/palythoas are easy beginner corals and come in lots of different colors. You can keep a nice softie reef, I used to do that in a Biocube 8. A 29 is a nice size and I think you'll have fun with it.

What fish are you interested in Matt? Have you looked around and seen something you like? If you like clownfish, that would be a good choice, same for small gobies. Royal grammas are pretty (not to be confused with bicolor pseudochromis) if you like purple and yellow. Firefish and cardinals are good too, like cerianthus mentioned.

Due to the footprint of your tank, I would not suggest any wrasses, even fairy wrasses... they are very active swimmers and are better off in 3 foot tanks IMO. Same goes for any dwarf angel. Pseudochromis (dottybacks) tend to be aggressive and you should probably steer clear of them as well.

How about shrimp? Cleaner shrimp, peppermint shrimp, fire shrimp, sexy shrimp are all very cool additions and could live comfortably in your cube (not all of them, pick your favorites).

Feather dusters are awesome, but take your time on those. They are filter feeders and do better in mature tanks. Hermit crabs are entertaining, but have the potential to kill your snails. I don't keep them, so can't really comment further, but I think if you provide them with extra shells and keep them well fed you can cut down on this risk.

Be sure to read up on fish you like and post any other questions you have! Good luck!

matt6765

hmmmm...... so many choices..... I like that

cerianthus

DOnt underestimate the difficulties with some soft corals. Not all are easy.

Filamentous wrasses are fine in 29G. Question is that they can be difficult to keep even in large tank. It all depends on how well they well shipped, acclimated and maintained. But once able to locate healthy specimen, should do fine, and choose very colorful but one that stayis small.
Sunburst anthias is good one to keep also. Price should be cheaper now than when first avail as even Bengaii were few in hundreds when first introduced about 15 yrs (?). I ve seen Bengaii for $10-12 from time to time.

So take your taime as others have advised and start preparing. I know you are young but that does not mean you can not build DIY equipments. Ive seen Junior high student who done better job of maintaining their reef than some adults.

Be observative and always reason before action. Learn from mistake. I am sure you will be great reefer before reaching adulthood.
As far as angel, I would not recommend any dwarf angels in reef but atlantic pygmy or flameback (flameback will do better i larger tank of course).

harpua2002

I would agree in a normal 29 gallon, but IMHO the footprint of the 29 Biocube isn't conducive to keeping any wrasses. Again this is JME with these active swimmers.

I'm surprised to see the recommendation for the sunburst anthias... these are one of my favorite fish, but they are pricey and I haven't quite had the guts to pick any up yet, as I understand they aren't easy fish to keep. If you've kept them I'd love to hear about your experiences; this is a fish I would love to try a group of in the upcoming 125.

cerianthus

When sunburst first came out, I believe tag was aroung 50-60. TO my surprice they were not that difficult to feed as other may have advised at that time. Although somewhat shy at first, will be bold once well adjusted, especially in reef where there are very rarely large bullies as tankmates. And they are smart and sneaky and fast. It may be hard to find one that is up to par as they are in the middle as far as tolerating shipping from Indonesia.
I believe there is newer cousin of sunburst which are very pricey but dont have the green ( hard enough time to provide for3 growing boys, lol) nor the time to try them (if not able to devote time for fish, I think one shoud wait until can). One should not disturb the tank unnecessarily if want to see settle and last long, regardless of intention including pwc. Once i learned, never have perform w/c siphoning out water from main tank. In have said before Im nutcakes when it comes to fish. I even recycled whatever I may have drained out from system. Have vats after vats conditioning water before returning to main system, just as waste water treatment center including DIY denitrator.

Dont disturb the fish. I know. I know. You are worried. Just like all the MOMS. But sometimes having a bit patience will definitely pay off. I dont like to disturb the fish, siphoning out 50% be it s/w or f/w is too much. Not just the physical stress but changes in water chemistry that fish have to constantly adjust to.
Only time when I would do that for f/w or s/w is in case of emergency (something went into tank) or to stimulate breeding. But never did it with straight tap but very well aged tap or rain water. I have diy sump where I can drain water from part of sump and add new water to pump chambers. I would built two different return water piping system with valves and be specific as to where I would return the new water so less new water would be siphon out thru overflow. i am not saying this is the best method but it sure increased their survival rate in captivity. Less changes at one time and slow changes when performing such PWC.

I made mistakes before but I would never make same mistakes and most importantly always trying to find the better way to give fighting chance for new fish.
Like I said numerous occassions, no one knows everything. Because one had success , it does not necessarily means it is the right way or it will work for others. When one is willing to learn and keep ones mind open for more info and new ideas, one will have very succeful tank with less frustrations.


For S/W, always had 50-125G aging ready to go at any time. I was once into Controller for ozone reactor )redox potential) with ozonizer, air dryer, etc etc. Now I am believer of natural process w/ least amt of unnatural process (adding medium to remove PO4, etc). For PO4, I would have refuge, a big one as big as main tank if needed, just growing macro which will assist with NO3 and PO4 reduction not to mention coral which will also assist. and best of all free and more natural food than prep food for grazers.

For F/W, eventually built river system where new water is constantly sprayed from reserve to top tank which will drain into midle then to bottom and eventually to drain. No water meter at that time but CAN NOT do such anymore. This year, no water shortages, at least in NYC. Too much rain this year. I am more environment conscious now, Like I said, I dont like to repeat same mistakes. LOL. I could go on but will do some other time as this may be heading toward off topic.

Excuse many many typos and will talk more about small filamentous wrasses which will stay wi/n rock formations. Good Night!

harpua2002

Wow, interesting experiences. Let me start by saying I don't exceed 20% pwc for marine fish. It's the FW fish I do huge water changes for. They love it, I use a Python, it's no more work than a small water change, just more waiting. The fish thrive, why not? I see instant results, happy, colorful, active FW fish. JME... and once again, I respect where you're coming from, it's just what works for me. I don't feel like the fish have to adjust to huge changes in parameters when they are used to weekly 50-60% water changes.

For sunburst anthias, are we talking about the same fish (fathead anthias, Serranocirrhitus latus)? Last I saw they were still about $70 a pop. Then again, common names are misleading, maybe we are talking about different species. Just curious!

For the filamented: ours does anything but stay in rock formations. There are plenty, but without any perceived threat this fish is out in the open constantly and is a very active swimmer. Same experience with Carpenter's flasher, which unfortunately jumped (see my agreement with you on the eggcrate tank cover in other thread).

cerianthus

We are talking about same Fathead Anthias. I did not have difficulty because I rarely disturbed the tank. Do you know anthias are very tempermental fish just like snapper I catch in the summer. As matter of fact, I should be heading out to beach this weekend again to catch some tropical saltwater fish and seahorses and other inverts.
Anyway, handled enough of just about all the anthias avail to hobby and found them to be pretty agile/nervous fish when introduced to new environment. Seen anthias get spooked because of shadows and died of heartattack. Splash Splash and gone before I can apply CPR or jump start the heart. Dont laugh. Why not? I told you I was fish nutcakes. What I would try to save fish or keep fish alive and constant disturbing, chemically or physically, does not help
Going back to Snapper, I manage to bring home few allve last year but despite my effort to keep temp down, it only take one incident where temp rise beyond their threshold to find them floating. No more, I will just use them as bait for Fluke. I think they are the best bait for fluke.
From my over 40 yrs of fish keeping and commercially handling them, came to conclusion some species need more time to adjust to new enviroment such as different water, bright lighting, and tankmates, etc. AND STILL LEARNING NEW THINGS,

I dont go out to assist people in the fish industry as much, unpacking newly arrived fish, but when I do, i still do it completely darkness with very dim flashlight which drastically increase survival rate of fish (my actual statistics, just over 20 yrs in s/w). Same goes for some f/w fish. Its not just matter of adapting, it is actually how they are allowed to adapt. When sudden changes in our enviroment occurs, major die off but when gradually altered, slow or less death and high possibility of adapting to changing world.

No doubt flament wrasse are active but they dont venture too far out as they need to dash and hide when danger approaches. Keep them in 1000 G or bigger reef with larger tankmates (lionfish, lol), you will see. This is not wrasses which grows large to be considered edible fish thus OK in well seasoned 29 BioCube. Just make sure not to keep with nippy tankmates.

Would you believe me if i tell you I have acclimated the new fish for weeks and months before introducing to main display tank. If it will make a difference I would and did.