Gonna take this chunk by chunk.
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Originally Posted by Jonah Looking at the picture it is very similar in both size and shape.
Can I just check I am not being totally stupid here.
Having read many different threads here can I just confirm that I am understanding correctly what I would need to do to get this tank up and running as a FOWLR Nano tank.
At the LFS this weekend end I need to buy
Saturday
Hydrometer / Refractometer (lets see prices 1st lol) If I go Hydrometer I have to adjust my reading at 75 deg
Bag of Live Sand
The right salt (I’m sure lfs will advise they are knowledgeable)
SW Test Kit
RO water |
If you are going to keep corals it's probably best to start out with something like instant ocean reef crystals. I use it and haven't had any issues with it. The list looks correct, I can tell you right now that the hydrometer will be cheaper than a refractometer, but will not be as accurate even when taking the salinity at the temp suggested by the hydrometer's manufacturer. My own hydrometer tests at .002 lower than my refractometer.
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Originally Posted by Jonah Then I put the sand in the tank, the dry frags in the sump, mix water and salt and add to tank. Turn heater and pump on then leave over night. |
I prefer to put the mixed water in before I add sand or rocks. Be sure to clean the sand out before adding it to the tank, it will seriously reduce the sand storm you are going to get when adding it.
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Originally Posted by Jonah Sunday
Then back to lfs to pick up live rock
15-16lbs of Part Cured Live Rock (I have 2lb already of inert live rock in sump) |
15-16 lbs of live rock seems like a lot to me. If you are buying very dense live rock it might take that much but my tank only has about 9 lbs in the display and it is quite considerable. I have a 15 tall tank that has 19 lbs of live rock sitting in it right now and it takes up the entire back and one side of the tank. :P
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Originally Posted by Jonah Patience) |
Truth.Saltwater tanks are like racecars, the faster you go the harder you crash. :P
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Originally Posted by Jonah add the LR and then use patience, water changes and the test kit to make sure the tank cycles before thinking about adding fish and or invert? |
I personally don't bother changing the water during the cycle. Changing your water can actually slow it down. Let it sit with the power heads on and have the lighting on a shortened 4 hour a day schedule for now so that the
coralline algae doesn't all die off. Sometimes you also get other hitchhiking light lovers that you don't want to let die.
After the tank has cycled, in so far as
ammonia and nitrites read zero, you can add the cleanup crew. I prefer to use a combination of astrea snails and nassarius snails. 10 astrea snails and 5 nassarius snails will keep your live rock and sand bed cleaned pretty well. My 9 gallon right now has about 15 astreas in it. I like to avoid hermit crabs too as they can sow a path of destruction when they feel like it. I have a single hermit in my 9 gallon and his favorite pastime right now is to throw one of my frag plugs in the sand once a week right now.
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Originally Posted by Jonah Would I get any benefit from adding one of my spare air pumps and air stones to the tank? |
I would say to try and avoid using air stones. They cause a ton of bubbles which come to the top of the tank, pop, and cause horrendous salt creep. I prefer to rely on my power heads to cause surface movement which allows for the nitrogen exchange to take place and keeps your water oxygenated.
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Originally Posted by Jonah And the really noobish question do I put the heater in the visible part of the tank or into the Sump part hidden at the back of the tank? |
You can put it in either. Most prefer to hide theirs in the sump area like I did.
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Originally Posted by Jonah |
Looks nice.