Baking soda (NaHCO3) will bring up KH; and as a consequence of that raise, your pH will also rise. However it is also important to address your
GH, even if you have no plants, since the mineral traces that make up GH are essential for fish health.
Maybe you fell behind in tank maintenance (I had too: organic waste does more than building up
ammonia: as more bacteria decompose them, trace minerals are removed form the water column) or your maybe your
bio-load is exceeding the tank volume and depleting trace minerals too fast (I had that one also, specially with big fish).
In my honest opinion
your tank is at the edge of a pH crash, I would consider using baking soda
carefully. Keep in mind
it is your responsibility to do this right and you are doing this at your own risk.
Using Baking Soda to slowly raise KH, you need:
A)
a pinch of baking soda,
B) at least
five gallons of R/O processed drinking water (low mineral content drinking water should work fine)
C)
Minimize errors of measurement: Rinse the vial and cap in water from the sample to remove any previous solids present. Please use 10ml samples to add your KH reagent drops one by one; do not touch the surfaces of the vial and cap that will come in contact with the sample and reagent. Again, add one drop of reagent at a time, place the cap, shake a bit, observe the color. Remember that you may see when the color is
about to change; the measure should include the count of the drop that actually made the reagent color change
distinctively. Divide by two. This is your
DKH.
Instructions:
1)
Aim at 5.0dKH Take
two gallons of water from your tank (it's a 10gal right?) and
add a tiny tiny bit of baking soda (to these two gallons not the tank!). Stir well and measure at least three or four times say 5 minutes apart. Either dilute with R/O or de-mineralized drinking water or add another pinch of baking soda. Aim at 5.0dKH (if you get 4.5, 5.0 or 5.5 go to step 2).
2)
Aim at 2.5dKH Take two more gallons out of your tank and mix it with the (now buffered water at around 5.0dKH). Stir, measure two or three times, five minutes apart. Aim at 2.5dKH.
3)
Adjust to 2.5dKH Mix with R/O processed (or low mineral content) drinking water until you get, by trial and error (going back and forth if needed be) 2.5dKH. Set apart 4 gallons of this water with 2.5dKH.
3) Now you have aprox. 6 gallons of water in your tank with 0dKH. Add the 4 gallons of 2.5dKH water and expect readings to be at 0.5, 1.0 or 1.5dKH, due to probable errors (say your tank real water volume is not exactly 10gallons, which is likely the case). Confirm the dKH of your tank by performing two or three measurements.
Write down this dKH reading with the time and date.
4) Wait at least 2 hours, (even better until early morning) to measure pH (water agitation due to all the handling will give false elevated readings of pH).
Write down this pH reading with its time and day
Note that your tank's pH may stay at 6.0, but your KH should be around 40% of 2.5dKH (0.4*2.5*17.9 = 17.9ppm) so should expect readings of 0.5, 1.0 or 1.5 dKH.
5)
Keep doing this until 3.5dKH is reached Do the same tomorrow, and raise your KH another bit. In a matter of three or four days of doing this, you should have around 3 to 3.5dKH and a still slightly acidic pH (say 6.5, 6.8) depending on the other several variables that correlate with pH.
6) Once you get to the 3.5dKH mark your tank
should be risk-free of pH crash. In a couple of days go on with
regular water change (20% with substrate vacuum of half the tank weekly) and it should either remain the same or find a point of equilibrium according to your particular setting. Once you do a water change measure both GH and KH. If you manage to keep GH at or above 5.5 and KH at or above 3.5 I would consider your tank safe as far as pH crash is concerned.
Pepe
Santo Domingo