egkilmon

So, after weeks of research on low pH and buffering capacity, I'm cross-eyed and still at a loss for a solution to my water issue. It seems I am not in the norm, in that my tap water, which is well water (yay for no chlorine!), is on the hard side (yay for buffering!), but has a super low ph. I'm talking never getting any darker than light, light yellow on the API liquid test. So light yellow in fact, that I'm concerned it's actually below 6.0. I've been using spring water in my 20gal cory tank with consistent readings of 0/0/10; 6.8ph for months, but I'd really like to be able to use my well water for obvious $$ reasons. So I was wondering if anyone else has the oddball problem of hard well water with low ph. I was thinking using a layer of crushed coral under the sand to raise the ph, but then I was thinking if my hard water means better buffering, could I use baking soda with better results than those with soft water as far as ph stabilization once raised? Know what I mean? Any suggestions on how to test that theory with a cup of my tap water or something?

agabr123

hmm...is there any way you can use RO water mixed with your water?

i've never heard of baking soda being used but i know crushed coral works well.

Llama

Baking soda should work if you put enough. When reacted with an acid it won't decompose into anything poisonous, just make sure the tank can handle the CO2 which it decomposes into.

That said, I'd personally prefer to use crushed coral, I'd feel more comfortable using something meant for aquarium use.

ADDED: Hmm, the Baking soda also produces a salt - not sure that it'd do your hardness any favours.

Shawnie

im with llama 110% ..although ive read others use it, I wouldnt risk it...the crushed coral is safe, and easy..just rinse it very well first...and it happens fast also...like overnight you see a change...so add small amounts and test a the next day instead of just putting in a whole bunch

soldieroffortune1974

I would have to agree, with Llama and Shawnie. The baking soda raises the PH dramatically and too quickly and causes a lot of stress for the fish. I do it use,however to restabilise a potentially crashing PH,but only in emergencies. I would go with the crushed coral,and you don't have to put it under the sand.You can put it in the filter (and get extra bio results,always a good thing) 0r you can use crushed coral as the substrate,or mix it with sand.I love the look of crushed coral substrate,and some fish will eat it,it's a good source of calcium. Planted aquariums benefit from it as well,so there's really a lot of benefits to using crushed coral instead of baking soda.

egkilmon

There's room in my filter for a small media bag and I'd rather avoid mixing coral with the sand just in case there's a sharp edge. I don't want to bother my cories and their barbs. If I can get the ph to at least 6.4 with coral in the filter, then my concern is how to deal with the water changes if the ph out of the tap is still so low.

soldieroffortune1974

Put the coral in the filter,change the water as usual and the coral will leach buffers into the new water and will raise the PH accordingly. Once the coral is in place,all you need to do is check parameters as normal.

If it's possible,I would get a nitrogen test kit as well. Nitrogen will affect the PH and make it swing wildly.

egkilmon

Hmm...a nitrogen test kit? My quick google search came back with some well water test kits that state they read nitrate-nitrogen and nitrite-nitrogen. Is that what you're referring to? Is that something to do with the coral? I'm wondering if I should just stick with what's working, being the spring water. It is very stable. I sure don't want any wildly swinging ph levels, killing my fish, just to save a couple bucks. I really want to do right by my cories. They make me giggle.

soldieroffortune1974

No it doesn't have anything to do with the coral. The coral will raise the PH levels as where excessive nitrogen builds up from spikes in ammonia,nitrite and nitrate (hence the term and name The nitrogen cycle) If the nitrogen gas stays suspended in a pocket,say under the sand bed perhaps, the excess nitrogen gas dissolved in the water will drop the PH levels dramatically.

egkilmon

But you are referring to a different test kit than the nitrate/nitrate kits in my API master test kit, yes? I've never seen a kit for nitrogen specifically unless it was nitrate or nitrite. Just a little confused.

Hmm...my tank is fully cycled and I have no problems with gas pockets since I just stir the sand and poke holes regularly. The prospect of getting mini-cycles doesn't thrill me.

egkilmon

UPDATE: Boy it's amazing what you can learn from so many different people posting so many different experiences. I found a pretty old thread last night about leaving water to sit 24 hours not only for chlorine removal (which is not a problem with my well), but to allow for ph changes. So I put out a cup of water yesterday, thought I'd test it this morning just to see...and tada! My tap water is reading 6.4-6.6 after 12 hours. I might not have any tap water issues after all! Yay me! So I will continue testing the stability of it for the next couple weeks and hopefully be able to just swap out the water over the next few water changes.

It's so nice to be able to come to one site and find so many different resources and experiences. You think you have a problem, turns out you don't! Thanks, FishLore!

soldieroffortune1974

Well, that solves that...congratulations. Glad to see it's a non issue,good luck

pepetj

egkilmon: Your source water is great for corydoras!

You are absolutely on target on doing pH readings on our source water with liquid reagents: to get reliable results we should let the water sit in a shallow container overnight and then measure.

What are the KH and GH values in the well water?

If you are concerned about trace elements, including buffers in your water column consider getting Seachem's Equilibrium. This product is used mostly for adding back essential elements to R/O treated water and contains no harmful chemicals.

Pepe
Santo Domingo

Annadvn

My saltwater tank is suffering from low KH, i was advised to use baking soda to raise the pH as crushed coral only does so much and it was not buffering the tank.

I was also advised to bake the baking soda at 450F for an hour as this removes (or changes) the CO2 and salt content making it safer to add to an aquarium.

The dosage i use for a 75g + 15g sump for the salt water is 2 cups of baking soda baked, then add to 2 gallons or RO/DI water (could use normal well water for fresh water) then add 1/2 a cup wait 12 hours take a KH reading wait another 12 hours take another KH reading and then does from there. Theses instructions are for a 75G tank so base according to your size of tank.

I am only using this as it has been sworn to me that its safe for use in a sensitive salt water tank by one of the leading magazine editors and author of numerous salt and fresh water books.

Anna

egkilmon

KH is 4 and GH is 12+. Definitely on the hard side. But I can deal with the occasional cleaning of mineral deposits on the tank if the cories are happy. After 22 hours, the same cup of tap water reads a solid 6.6. My aqaurium is currently 6.8. I'm very excited. But as I'm no chemist, I am wondering why the ph changes after sitting. I haven't really been able to find an answer in newbie terms. Just curious on that, really.

Can you explain further regarding your suggestion on concerns about trace elements and using Equilibrium? I don't think there's any kind of RO filter on any of our plumbing, and being a newbie, I'm not sure what those trace element concerns would be.

I will do a little dance that I'm one of the lucky ones with a free, good source of water.

soldieroffortune1974

There's many factors involved but simply and easiest to explain is dissolved gases and/or temperature.

As water sits,gasses are absorbed or released into the atmosphere.The temperature effects how fast and what types of gasses are absorbed or released.

example = Oxygen is released as the water evaporates.Higher temperature causes the water to evaporate faster,releasing more oxygen.cooler temperature slows evaporation and releases less oxygen

same goes for all the dissolved gasses in the water.hydrogen,nitrogen,etc. The release of the gasses will cause the PH to drop,because as the gas is released,so is it's buffering capacity.

There's a larger more detailed explanation,but I would have to get into chemistry and physics.

egkilmon

So basically, these gasses get released at the time the water comes out of my tap and then the ph will rise as the water sits because those gasses are then gone? Is that about right? Is that why you suggested a nitrogen test? I'm really a moron when it comes to chemistry and physics.

This morning, I can barely see a ph difference between the tap water that sat for 36 hours and the test vial that just came out of my tank. If anything, the tap water is now reading closer to 7.0, whereas the tanks always read a solid 6.8. I guess I'm good to go with my well water!