Hi Tehachapitom, wellcome to fishlore.
I experienced exactly the same problem you are living now: I had two young 3.5 and 5 inches Oscars temporarely housed in a 29gal bow tank, that has the surface of a 20gal, they engaged in the same aggressive behavior yours are showing, it means only one thing: There's no room for more than one in such a small tank. Mines are now inseperable at their 145gal tank, so you can try pulling this one out.
I don't mean to patronize you in any way. A 55gal is the minimun size tank for a single Oscar. If you do not have other similar sized tanks, then this is what you can do in the short term. I don't know which Bio-filter you have, but to keep one Oscar (and you have two) you need at least 10 times GPH than 55gal, aim at 550GPH or more.
Dividing the tank:
I know it's Sunday, but if you have a hardware store available, get some plastic cover for fluorescent ceiling mounted lamps (the cheap, translucent, with irregular surface), a measure tape, and a blade cutter or mechanical scissors (those for use in garden might work), and some sand paper (to smooth the edges). Try dividing your tank in half with that material.
Filtration:
Now you need to do one of two options:
a) place as big as possible HOB filters on each side (e.g. one AquaClear 70 ) for 350GPH on each side of the tank
b) use only one filter (e.g. AquaClear 110) for 500GPH for the entire tank, but drill as many little holes as you can in the plastic divider.
Water changes and water parameters:
Oscars are really messy fish, they produce a bio-load that exceeds its length, the rule of one inch of adult fish size per gallon of water does not apply here. One Oscar needs at least 55gal. Two Oscars require, as minimun a 100+gal tank (six foot long). You need liquid reagent test kits for water parameters, don't trust test strips.
If your tank is cycled, check daily (I did twice a day or more) for water parameters, focus on ammonia and nitrites, you can disregard nitrates since you will be doing daily (or twice a day or more) partial water changes. Aim at close to 50% water changes, but not more (it's OK to do more than one 50% water change per day if you do it in long enough intervals, say every 6-8 hours).
If your tank is not cycled you need to add Tetra Safe-Start today. Remember to treat all incoming water (tap water, well water) with water conditioners for removal of chlorine/chloramines and heavy metals before you add the water in the tank (Prime, Stress-Coat, Aqua-Safe are some good brands). Now Prime has one advantage: it will keep your ammonia and nitrites levels locked for 24 hours, so your fish have a chance of not dying from a toxic spike.
Provide as much dissolved oxygen as possible. Add large airstones to each side of the tank, make your filter(s) work at full flow, keep the water height at least 1 inch from the output of the HOB(s) so the incoming water strikes the surface harder.
Substrate and decors:
At this point if you have sand you don't need to worry. If you have gravel be careful. Remove all ornaments with sharp edges, as well as small-medium size rocks they could smash to the glass. You could try keeping several bundles of floating plants (Anacharis, Hornwort) but let them do as they please with them. If possible, provide some large flat rocks. And Keep the lights off until they adapt to their new environment. Of course cover the rear wall with dark (navy-blue or black) material (from the outside) or just use the wallpaper you like (this makes them feel less exposed).
In the short term this should help. When is your next tank coming? Keep us posted!
For more info on Oscarfishkeeping, please visit this wonderful site (from UK, they use UKgals)
www.oscarfishlovers.com they are very decent, dedicated people, almost as warm as in fishlore, but focused only on Oscars and Oscars Tankmates.
Pepe
Santo Domingo