JWalker

Hi Guys and Gals,

Okay i want to do lighting for my tank, but i have no clue of where to start.

So here goes,

I have a 55G with a black plastic\fibre hood. There is permenantly water on the inside of the hood from i assume evaporation.

The LFS said that i need a 40watt for my tank and that i can put the light into the tank as the fittings are water proof (the stuff looks like a standard lighting fitting, a grey box with 2 clips for the tube and 2 sockets to go onto the ends of the tube)

Is this correct? can i put them in with all that water on the inside of the hood and a 40watt the correct wattage ?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advnace

Blub

What do you want to do in this tank? If you want plants, you will deffinatly want more than 40w.

lew2000

First off i am not trying to offend - not really enough information to go on. Are you talking about a hood that came with the tank that accomodates a bulb or multiple bulbs? If it comes with a fixture, are they saying that the fixture is to low in wattage and or length of bulb? Usually, these hoods come with a canopie/cover that lays on the tank and the light hood is above, and this canopie protects the bulb/assembly from water condensation. Some of these canopies come with a built in hood, and the hood has a slide in piece of plexiglass (usually) that provides protection from the water. Is the canopie plexiglass or glass?

Then a number of questions just to start with: did they specify what type bulb size, t12 1.5 diameter, t8 1" diameter 40w bulb. will this bulb size the fixture/bulb fit within your hood (including placement of sockets), that is - will what they recomend fit with space inside the hood so it is not touching any surfaces and not laying on the top of the tank. If your canopie is plexiglass then you get into the plexi turning opaqae, thus reducing the amount of light.

Fishlore has links to lighting and the link below provides a very comprhensive guide to lighting:

[url="http://www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com/"]

This link shows an inexpensive way to go for lighting:



In all, you should get the best type lighting system you can afford for the type of tank you want.

JWalker

Hi, no offence taken i really dont know where to start.

I have just a plain canopy similar to the picture attached. So there is no lighting, no brackets, no glass plates or anything like you mentioned.

I will have a look at the website you gave me thanks.

Attached Images

1460.jpg (1.6 KB, 45 views)

JWalker

Some help please, from what i have read, you can put a NO floresnt tube into the hood and water can form on the tube and it is same ?

capekate

A lot of the fixtures come with a acrylic sheet to protect the bulbs from water splashes. You should look for those. Other than that I really do not know the wattage's other than for a planted tank you would need between 2-5w per gallon. Most likely on the higher end for moderate light requirements.

capekate

Your link is not working.. can you try it again?

MaddieLynn

I have a similair question. I don't have bulbs in my hood right now becasue of moisture caused by evaporation. My hood does have plastic protectors for the bulbs, but the water gets inside them anyways. Would it be unsafe to put in bulbs?

lew2000

Sorry about the broken link.

http://www.aquarium-lighting-guide.com/

An NO FL just refers to the fact that this is a Normal Output type - runs at a usual wattage versus special type HO and VHO flourescent type FL's. With the wattage of a bulb obviuosly you are going to have crated and thus evaporation. Either it condenses on the canopie, the hood protective shiled if it has one, ot the tube and the fixture if there is no seperation form the tank - just like the very old days of fishkeeping.

This link shows various light fixture configs, as well as some that come with a built-in cover for the bulbs. I believ Drs. Foster and & Smith (fishlore link available) has some low cost options in this area as well.

As too your picture, there looks to be a center hole in the canopie, and the rest is a balck/brown plastic cover? So maybe the hole if or a simple bulb?
I don't know what your finances are, but i have always found it easier with the use of a glass canopie to cover an entire tank top - with approximately 1.5" or so of open space along the back of the tank for siphon tubes, return tubes, etc. The link below shows the type of canopie i am talking about. (only for reference not recommending a retailer - but this site isn't bad). If you have an acrylic tank like some of mine are, with essentially cutouts on top - i go to a glass shop and get 1/8" pieces of plate glass to fit over the two main openings in the tank.

http://www.aquariumguys.com/aquariumhoods.html

I am just making a guess, but your hood/fixture looks as if it is somewhat old style? As you can see with most glass canopies, they are hinged along the length, so you can lift up a portion for feeding fish and getting some access to the tank without removing the entire cover and whatever rests on it. The other problem i have seen with older plastic hoods either refitted or fitted to accomodate larger wattage bulbs such as 40-48w, is that heat build-up over time weakens the plastic and the acrylic panel below it and warps it as well and then you have larger areas for evaporation, and the acrylic turns opaque reducing light into the aquarium. Most new fixtures are either t8 or t5, smaller profile, more energy efficient, and usually provide more lumens of light into the tank. The other aspect i forgot to put in earlier, is that newer lighting systems have better reflectors - which directs even more light into the tank.

lew2000

MaddieLynn, it depends upon how much evaportaion you get into the fixture. However, if you have a fixture where once you put the bulb in, but the are no pices that you slide over the fitting - then even small amounts of moisture will obviously get in and possibly cause problems of rusting of the fittings and corosion on the bulb pins and fixture contacts. Usually the acrylic panel in these fixtures besides becoming opaque tend to become bowed in due to aging and heat. If you know the mfgr you may be able to find and order a replacement. If you are handy, or know somebody who is, you can either replace with glass or acrylic piece. As far as shorting out the system right away, my answer would be no. But over long term use - it is always a possibility.

cerianthus

You can always raise the light strip just a bit so can stay dry. It is condensation in the strip when off (cooled) due to high humidity from evaporation of water which can shorten light strip uses, not too mention shock!
Always plug in the equipments on power strip w/ breaker which can shut off when something goes wrong (like overheating and fire; know of someone who let s/w drip into outlet setting house on fire. He has shaved his head off, got out of hobby and have not seen him since)), especially when not home. And have the cord make a loop before plugged so in case any water drips down, will be on the floor not into outlet.