Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnie why did you medicate him to begin with ? if he was healthy....medicating a fish just because, could kill him....id do some big water changes with some prime or ammo lock to make sure hes not getting ammonia poisoning as well ....qt a fish is great but you dont need to medicate him if hes not ill |
On the bottle of melafix, it said to dose daily for 3 days when adding new fish or handling new fish. I had to transfer these
goldfish to a temporary tank as I've decided to switch over to fishless cycling.
As for the ammonia levels I try to keep it at <0.25. I do a 20%
water change in the morning and another 20% in the afternoon; the QT is too small for the fish I think - 10 gals - the goldfish are roughly 2" long. Apparently all I need to do is keep the ammonia levels below 0.5 based on my water's temperature (72 F) and
pH (7.8). My last test for ammonia before doing the next water change was unclear between 0.0 and 0.25. My testing for pH is also unclear, I'm having trouble making a choice whether it's 7.6 or 7.8

I hope it's okay.
As for the salt, I just assumed plain sea salt with no additives and no anti-caking agents would be the same as aquarium salt. And I used some salt as on another website it mentions small concentrations of salt apparently stimulates the fishies' immune system by producing more mucus which is a good thing (what it said) - even for "
freshwater fish".
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I think I found the answer... comments and other insights still welcome though.
I just remembered there was an occasion where I wanted to adjust my heater an extra 3F from 72, but the heater was ment for "up to 30 gals" if that means anything... and I was using it in a 10 gallon tank. The next day my thermometer read 80 F, and that alone would make the ammonia levels more toxic.
Would the emergence of the fin rot or fin blackening occur over a single day?