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Old November 14th, 2009  
Fish Keeper
 
Bleh, Car repairs

I did an oil change and found a bad tie rod, so I took it in. then they came up with a laundry list of things to fix...

1. serpentine belt
2. oil pan gasket
3. all 4 struts
4. tie rod

they wanted $1,100 for it all, which isn't a BAD price, it's just a lot more than I can spend right now. The tie rod is the only critical component that can leave my car disabled in the middle of the road, so it's being replaced right now lol.

I can do the oil pan gasket myself, but I don't think it's actually leaking, I changed my oil a week ago and it was fine.

I was planning to replace the serpentine belt along with the tensioner pulley when i get off school in December...

But that leaves the struts. Has anyone replaced struts? I know you need a couple special tools, but is it a big job? Is there a particular brand I should look for, and are there other components I should replace at the same time (like the strut mounts?)
Tavel is offline  
Old November 14th, 2009  
Fish Mentor
 
Sorry, I can't help you on the struts.

I'm one of those " mechanics " ha ha ha,

who can make any 1/2 hour job last all day.


Randy
Borisbbadd is offline  
Old November 14th, 2009  
Fish Helper
 
I haven't replaced struts in a few years you are going to need a spring compressor other than that not much I can remember until I get under a car and start working or see what comes with the parts. I soon have to replace the struts on my moms van and the power steering pump

good luck and unless you have the right tools to do the struts I would have someone else do it you really don't want to get hit by one of those springs when they let go
deathtroll is offline  
Old November 14th, 2009  
Fish Master
 
Instead of me going through expaining it step by step here are a couple of links to sites that do that for you:
http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/
http://www.partsource.ca/doityoursel...ace-Struts.asp

It's a reasonably simple job if you follow the instructions carefully & take your time. Please note that if you do this job yourself the vehicle will need a wheel alignment straight away.

If you look under the car & there is no sign of oil leaking from around the sump, then don't replace the sump gasket. Be sure to check it very thouroghly though. If there is oil be sure that it is coming from the sump gasket. It's very common for mechanics to see oil on the sump & jusst write sump gasket down instead of cheacking where it is really from or if it is even oil Common for them to mistake power steering fluid for oil if they don't actually touch or smell it. Why do you need to replace the fanbelt, (serpentine belt), tensioner? That's not a part that should wear out very often if ever.

Last edited by Nutter; November 14th, 2009 at 06:48 PM.
Nutter is offline  
Old November 14th, 2009  
Fish Keeper
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutter View Post
Instead of me going through expaining it step by step here are a couple of links to sites that do that for you:
http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/
http://www.partsource.ca/doityoursel...ace-Struts.asp

It's a reasonably simple job if you follow the instructions carefully & take your time. Please note that if you do this job yourself the vehicle will need a wheel alignment straight away.

If you look under the car & there is no sign of oil leaking from around the sump, then don't replace the sump gasket. Be sure to check it very thouroghly though. If there is oil be sure that it is coming from the sump gasket. It's very common for mechanics to see oil on the sump & jusst write sump gasket down instead of cheacking where it is really from or if it is even oil Common for them to mistake power steering fluid for oil if they don't actually touch or smell it. Why do you need to replace the fanbelt, (serpentine belt), tensioner? That's not a part that should wear out very often if ever.
thanks for the links.

I'm guessing they saw some spillage from my oil change last week. I don't get into the filter well and clean up nicely because I don't have a lift, so there's always a bit seeping down. They probably saw that and "oh, leaking ga$ket!"

the belt tensioner is just defective from the factory. Toyota isued a service bulletin, but you know how people are...it never got fixed.

It rattles under constant load, but stops as soon as you accelerate or deccelerate. Extremely annoying when you're just trying to cruise because have to keep adjusting speed up and down just to keep it from rattling.

Most people say you have to replace the whole assembly, which is easy...but expensive ($110 for the assembly). Replacing just the pulley is only $30, but requires a #147 star bit...which I don't have. So we'll see how I go about it, lol.
Tavel is offline  
Old November 14th, 2009  
Fish Master
 
Yes, I do remember something about the tensioner defect. Perhaps you can find a SH pulley assembley from a wreck for the same price as the pulley tensioner. Or perhaps it is just the loading spring out of place on the tensioner & can be easy fixed. You would still need the removal tool though. I havn't worked on a toyota in years since I got the drag team going so I'm not familiar with the current configuration of smaller engines like Toyotas etc, so I can't really give you any concrete advice on them I'm afraid.
Nutter is offline  
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